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Hear, hear. Preach on curisu, I too would purchase a 23' even though I have a 22' enroute! digitals is my enabler and even though I'm so perfectly satisfied between the X and SS2.5 I might get the LUX if they feel slightly different. Otherwise I think I'm going to try everything VapourArt has to offer, not just the new additions to the fam like the Salt 'n Pepper tank.
I haven't even used it yet but I'm in awe over the attention to detail (and serial number! -- I wonder if theres a spreadsheet for that) and elegant craftsmanship that went into its design.
We salute you, Mr. Perseas
All I can say is, I don't think I will ever use coupon codes for VapourArt because I feel they deserve every cent they ask for their products. Same with Domo Vapor Co & ByLeo.eu Sometimes I torture myself by window shopping at Vaper Revolution but never end up pulling the trigger.
I had a moment of weakness over te weekend and _almost_ bought a Just GG w/ an ithaka but I touted the line 'n stayed the course. GP is my first and will exclusively be my vendor for atleast a year in the wonderful world of Mechanicals and Rebuildables. Growing and learning along the way, with the help of folks like Woody and the rest of the Vapour Art family!
RHP
I haven't even used it yet but I'm in awe over the attention to detail (and serial number! -- I wonder if theres a spreadsheet for that) and elegant craftsmanship that went into its design.
We salute you, Mr. Perseas
All I can say is, I don't think I will ever use coupon codes for VapourArt because I feel they deserve every cent they ask for their products. Same with Domo Vapor Co & ByLeo.eu Sometimes I torture myself by window shopping at Vaper Revolution but never end up pulling the trigger.
I had a moment of weakness over te weekend and _almost_ bought a Just GG w/ an ithaka but I touted the line 'n stayed the course. GP is my first and will exclusively be my vendor for atleast a year in the wonderful world of Mechanicals and Rebuildables. Growing and learning along the way, with the help of folks like Woody and the rest of the Vapour Art family!
RHP
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I'm completely onboard with your thinking on that brother. I have a Kick V1 but still haven't used it. I will probably play with it some then go back to raw battery because the experience sorta feels more organic that way.
Thanks for indirectly showing me the light!
RHP
Absolutely did. They are nice and deep etchings not to be damaged. I know it must have been tough for Perseas to approve the cnc work on the engravings as they flow with the device and are not rough cut. Smooth edges are not easy to calibrate. This particular engraving has dimension and is the finest emblem work I and many of us have ever seen. Even on the high end market we don't see this attentive work.
Idaholandho - thanks for the reply
RHP - Ithaka is pretty amazing atty, IMHO. I have one from secondary market and I think it vapes out of this world. For me, I rank this one highest on my list of attys I own. I'm going to pick up a second one. It's fairly hefty and a lot of parts (and o-rings) but so far, I'm amazed by this atty. Don't know about JustGG as I'm not a fan of the side firing button mods.
RHP - Ithaka is pretty amazing atty, IMHO. I have one from secondary market and I think it vapes out of this world. For me, I rank this one highest on my list of attys I own. I'm going to pick up a second one. It's fairly hefty and a lot of parts (and o-rings) but so far, I'm amazed by this atty. Don't know about JustGG as I'm not a fan of the side firing button mods.
ID, nice job on the polishing there brotha!
Perseas, go figure, the items I've anticipated the most (drip tips) seem to be taking the most painfully long trip home! (hint: I couldn't reach deep enough in my pockets for DHL on a couple tips haha!)
RHP, contrary to what was said about Noalox, you can use it on more than just aluminum. True it does attract dirt and needs an occassional cleaning and reapplication, but its a multi-purpose tool IMO. I use it to break in (or out, actually) a burr in threads, inhibit oxidation on brass contacts (or any metal that oxidizes), as well as use it to keep any pesky electrical stuff from making a mark from arcing. EDIT: It's also good for it's anti-seizing properties.
To the GP family, sorry for my absence... I've been beta testing a new device for my beloved Super T here at home in the states, getting myself nic sick in the process.
Perseas, go figure, the items I've anticipated the most (drip tips) seem to be taking the most painfully long trip home! (hint: I couldn't reach deep enough in my pockets for DHL on a couple tips haha!)
RHP, contrary to what was said about Noalox, you can use it on more than just aluminum. True it does attract dirt and needs an occassional cleaning and reapplication, but its a multi-purpose tool IMO. I use it to break in (or out, actually) a burr in threads, inhibit oxidation on brass contacts (or any metal that oxidizes), as well as use it to keep any pesky electrical stuff from making a mark from arcing. EDIT: It's also good for it's anti-seizing properties.
To the GP family, sorry for my absence... I've been beta testing a new device for my beloved Super T here at home in the states, getting myself nic sick in the process.
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It's noted my friend, I have also some ideas about it, George added his own and we have something designed, but all our CNC machines are occupied at the moment.
You are right Idaho, the milling of closed curves combined with sharp edges is not an easy task.
We played with a polished GP PAPS X for a while and we found that it looks impressive and finger magnet, while most products in the market of 22 mm and 23 mm atties tend to have a brushed finish.
We decided to produce it with polished ends only, because it shows our insignia in an interesting way, it has the same distinctive finishes with GP PAPS v2.5 while creates the illusion of being smaller due to the 2 tone polishing. Additionally, the X rings add a sense of continuity, no matter of what is the rest finish.
But anyone with a Dremel and a PnB adaptor, may create repetitively many different finishes, without affecting the milled logo and serial.
Perseas,
I have one question for you sir... Why did you choose silver plated contacts on the X? Was it primarily due to cost?
I know silver is excellent at conducting electricity, but silver does; in fact, tarnish/oxidize. And usually the purpose of plating our contacts with precious metals is to avoid oxidation altogether. Just curious what your take was on this matter.
I have one question for you sir... Why did you choose silver plated contacts on the X? Was it primarily due to cost?
I know silver is excellent at conducting electricity, but silver does; in fact, tarnish/oxidize. And usually the purpose of plating our contacts with precious metals is to avoid oxidation altogether. Just curious what your take was on this matter.
Silver is actually more expensive. In the matter of conductivity silver has an improvement in conductivity. It is the best conductor, better than gold or brass.
The silver does oxidize a bit more than brass but, silver oxides still conduct, brass oxides do not conduct. Imo it is easier to see oxidation than on the brass. Stay ahead of it and wipe down every few battery changes and it wont be an issue.
And it looks sooooo good inside the X. Just do it Nach....dooooooo eeeet!
The silver does oxidize a bit more than brass but, silver oxides still conduct, brass oxides do not conduct. Imo it is easier to see oxidation than on the brass. Stay ahead of it and wipe down every few battery changes and it wont be an issue.
And it looks sooooo good inside the X. Just do it Nach....dooooooo eeeet!
Welcome Chez
You will find release dates on this thread if you like or here http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...notifications-tips-tricks-updates-thread.html
Here is the address for the US reseller Domo Vapor Co. Keep an eye on it! https://domovaporco.com/
Again, you are welcome to hang out here if you like and get some great information with some great people.
Silver is actually more expensive. In the matter of conductivity silver has an improvement in conductivity. It is the best conductor, better than gold or brass.
The silver does oxidize a bit more than brass but, silver oxides still conduct, brass oxides do not conduct. Imo it is easier to see oxidation than on the brass. Stay ahead of it and wipe down every few battery changes and it wont be an issue.
And it looks sooooo good inside the X. Just do it Nach....dooooooo eeeet!
+1
We had 4 choices for the contacts of GP PAPS X, all with their pros and cons:
a. Rhodium plated posts, never tarnishing, but they have a lower conductivity than the silver coated contacts.
b. Brass contacts with satisfying conductivity but they tend to oxidise quickly.
c. Silver coated brass posts with a very thick coating of 15-17 micron, which tarnish but not so quick as brass, while they can be cleaned easily.
d. Copper posts, still under investigation due to their difficult machining.
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Thanks Idaholandho. Lot of info to read here.. Will work my way through it in time! Subscribed to this thread and the other that you linked.
We have sent to our American reseller a shipment of GP PAPS v2.5 SS Edition and spares from the LUX edition, but I haven't an ETA for the GP PAPS v2.5 18350 Lux Edition.
Rhodium is better for lazy people.
Perseas, how do you suggest cleaning silver-plated contacts? I use a fiberoptic cleaning pen for all my pins, save for the ones coated with rhodium or palladium.
Perseas, how do you suggest cleaning silver-plated contacts? I use a fiberoptic cleaning pen for all my pins, save for the ones coated with rhodium or palladium.
Rhodium is better for lazy people.
Perseas, how do you suggest cleaning silver-plated contacts? I use a fiberoptic cleaning pen for all my pins, save for the ones coated with rhodium or palladium.
I've no idea about this pen, does it work for silver plated posts?
A home made electrolysis can be used every one or two months to reverse the chemical reaction that causes the tarnishing on silver, leaving the silver intact. Place the silver plated posts in a glass bowl lined with aluminium foil and fill it with 1/2 litre of boiled water to accelerate the chemical reaction. Add 1/2-1 tablespoon of baking soda and let sit for 10-20 minutes.
I have deliberately 'chosen' to go 'mechanical', right? I intend staying that way. To me an/y 'electronics' inside my mech-mod would mar the purpose. If I had to ~ I'd've gone the Provari way, wouldn't I?
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