GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 1

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qorax

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I am sorry for not keeping up on the issue so some of this may be repetitive. Hello!
On any atty change or placement always remove the top cap and install. Adjust the 510 post as needed. I also would reconsider use of the thicker battery post, Perseas is correct, use it . As the thicker the head the less the post has to be unscrewed outwardly to connect and will counter a bit of the wobble. Once they are settled and the top cap is in place on the tube, future battery changes should be made from the bottom switch as this will alleviate a bit of the tele posts adjusting on their own.
Also, the top cap...they are certainly gorgeous but, imo meant for use. The small circle that may develop is is character use to me. They are also a snap to polish back up to a mirror finish. This I can guarantee.

Enjoy!

Agreed.
For battery change (atty same) = Pop-in the new battery from the bottom (unscrew the Switch and insert the batt)
 

landman2k1

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For those interested... This is how my little cigar box mod holder turned out. The foam insert is 1" thick. I put one down on the bottom, then another on top that holds the mods. I think I will add cut outs to the bottom layer to hold my 500 and 650 tubes. I am pleased with it overall.

IMAG0978_zps314fc7c0.jpg


IMAG0983_zps4a77b018.jpg
 

txredxj

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For those interested... This is how my little cigar box mod holder turned out. The foam insert is 1" thick. I put one down on the bottom, then another on top that holds the mods. I think I will add cut outs to the bottom layer to hold my 500 and 650 tubes. I am pleased with it overall.

IMAG0978_zps314fc7c0.jpg


IMAG0983_zps4a77b018.jpg

Somebody is going to be ...... when they find a big hole in the sheets LOL
 

fasteddie

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A lot of good info from others on your issues with carto RBAs, here's my thoughts:

I use Diver v1 and v2, Killer and Sofia. I vape high VG to 100% VG juices only, to the point where I will not even try a vendor whose juices do not come in at least high VG versions. So I stick to AVE, Ahlusion, VCV mostly, with Mad Murdock being the only juices that probably break that pattern.

I generally have no issues with juice feeding in any of these attys. I do not ever dilute juices. Whenever I have wicking problems, it is because I either have too much wick in the atty, which is too tight and stuffed up and therefore cannot wick, or because my coil is wrapped around the wick too tight - one of the most common mistakes in this procedure. Could it be you are building your coil too tight around the wick?

The known issues are:

Diver v1: leaking. Can be addressed using an o-ring solution. See the Diver thread for details. But why get a v1 when there is the...
Diver v2: new, so far everyone seems to be saying it works perfectly. That is my experience as well.
Killer: as qorax mentioned, PITA due to the "hump", but we forgive it, because it has the best name, and looks phenomenal in a tank.
Sofia: new, so far everyone seems to be saying it works perfectly. That is my experience as well. In fact, I have to keep the liquid control almost completely closed for it to not gurgle and flood, just a crack open seems to get perfect wicking for me.

Having said all this: which tank or tanks? Just the SnP? Having more than one tank helps, especially if it is a faulty or damaged o-ring. I keep a large supply of extra o-rings (not yankeebobo large, but large nonetheless) just for this, it's the first thing I do if I identify a tank as the source of a problem, by swapping out attys and seeing if the problem persists in the same tank.

Wick material: what do you use? Where did you procure it? I've heard tell of non-genuine Ekowool out there, for example. I would read up on cotton thread or cotton balls, and try them out, not only because they rock, but because you know what you are getting, it cannot be "fake". This would rule out a bad batch of wick being the source of your problems.

I would not give up on these attys so easily, especially the Sofia and the v2 Diver. Those both seem to be the new standards for the carto RBA.

Furthermore, and I cannot stress this enough, the scientific method would suggest a single point of error in your experience. IMO, it isn't the attys. It is either your tank, or something you are doing incorrectly. I say that last bit with all due respect - I screw up builds each and every day, after having rebuilt Ithakas, Spheroids, Divers, Killers, Sofias, Drippers, Kayfuns, iGos, Protanks and Remoizers hundreds of times in the last 6 months.

Finally, your Killer clone. NO, no, no, no and no. I know for a fact that the makers of the Killer and the Diver both picked up clones of their respective products to try them out, and laughed at how poorly made they were. Besides the cheap metals and manufacturing, they weren't replicas, the designs were different. And those differences led to serious reduction in vape quality and functionality. They just don't work like the originals. Even if you don't avoid clones because they are theft, avoid them because they just don't work. When they tell you they buy the clone to test before buying the real thing - hogwash. Not the same thing.

THANKYOU folks!!!!!

Thanks for all the detailed responses regarding my issues:blink:.
It looks like Chadsmo hit the nail on the head. It seems I missed vaping 101 where the importance of restricted airflow was explained. I don't know why I have never seen this mentioned anywhere but this certainly seems to have solved it for the last 24hrs.
I have got the flow control down to half open ish depending, and airflow quite tight prob 1mm draw feel. Now i get nice juicy hits great flavour etc it has transformed it.:D

I think I have got the coil building ok Kaph, I am using micros and cotton balls in there at the moment, I have built 20ish coils now and used about the same in premade(on the RBA Cartos), I have found the niggles with the coil moving and pinching and can deal with that no probs.
Also re the Killer clone, yes it wasn't particularly well made but some grit paper sorted all the rough edges and otherwise it is a reasonable copy and I am sure it will work a treat now(it worked best of all of them before!!!). All that said I do not agree with the clones, and its the only thing I have bought which is, and it was only because I wasn't convinced about going back to carto tanks. I didn't have £50 to waste. It is a source of regret and I shall go and beat myself later!!!;)



Paps X ring on its way to Inferno!!
 

Romelee

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Been using this method since yesterday and it's working great:

Tools required:

1 x Tweezers (for coil)
1 x Nail clippers (for cutting wire and cotton)
1 x Scissors (for cutting the Jewel Filter to size)
1 x Ruler (for measuring the Juwel Filter)
1 x Philips screwdriver or needle nose pliers (Depending on whether you have nuts or the new v3 kit with screws)
1 x Blowtorch or Lighter
1 x Spheroid fork or a pair of needle nose pliers will do
1 x Mandrel or a 2mm thick drill bit
1 x 14 Gauge needle
1 x 0.25 Kanthal
1 x Organic cotton wool
1 x Juwel Filter PolyPad Compact, it's what i use : http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000G04LWM/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Tools_zpsb502f434.jpg


Preparation for the GP Spheroid:

Use the Spheroid fork or the end of the needle nose pliers tips to remove base and turn clockwise (it has reverse threading) to remove the base:

Prep1a_zps82e99e0d.jpg


Prep1b_zpsb0d2a8cb.jpg


Clean all parts in warm water and thoroughly dry and re-assemble the lower base back onto the main base anti-clockwise (it has reverse threading) you should now have this:

Youshouldnowhavethis_zps4b1a25cf.jpg


Before starting make sure your hands are clean as anything on them like grease etc will be going onto the wire/wick and filler.....you don't want that.

Building the GP Spheroid:

Step 1: Cut a bit of Juwel filter polypad too the size of 2.5cm x 4.5cm, Cut some 0.25 Kanthal at 14cm length

Step1_zpsec48d100.jpg


Step 2: Hold the 0.25 Kanthal and torch the coil with your blowtorch or lighter until glowing red, this will make the wire less springy and easier too handle:

Step3_zpse91d4387.jpg


Step 3: Wrap the coil around a 2mm mandrel nice and tight (i do around 9 turns, this should give about 1.9 ohms resistance) and then push all coils very close together with your fingers towards the mandrel’s edge so they are nice and snug next to each other and keep holding the legs tight at the same time.

Step3_zps44466e34.jpg


Step 4: Gently pull the coil off the mandrel and at the same time holding the legs of the wire place into the tip of a pair of tweezers (preferably flat tweezers).

Step4_zpsd428dbcf.jpg


Step 5: Once all held in place in the tweezers flame the coil until red hot and hold tight with the tweezers until cool, do this a couple of times....should end up looking like this:

Step5_zpsb37b1cd5.jpg


Step 6: Place the 14 gauge Blunt Needle into the centre of the coil and adjust the legs of the wire so that they are facing north and south:

Step6_zpsc25fffdd.jpg


Before step 7: Decide whether you want more throat hit or less throat hit, the higher the coil the more throat hit, the lower the coil between the posts the less throat hit (very marginal though)

Step 7: Place the coil between the posts and wrap the legs around the nuts/screws and tighten up, once all in place make sure the coil is dead in the center and lined up with the air hole, if not reposition it with your tweezers:

Step7_zpsac4c3661.jpg


Step 8: Get the end of each hanging wire and wiggle them off for a clean snap, place the base onto a device and check the resistance is fine and you can also do some dry burns to burn of any remaining impurities:

Step8_zps66efa7bf.jpg


Step 9: Now get some cotton wool and pull apart a bit that will be enough for the wick, not too much and not too less....this bit is by judgement so you need to guess right, If you use too much cotton the coil will strangle it and it won't wick fast enough, if you use to little it will wick too fast and you may get leaks, Get the cotton and roll into a tube, not too tight and not too loose, then feed it through you microcoil:

Step9a_zps59224d3e.jpg


Step9b_zpse6f72f5f.jpg


Step 10: Trim the cotton ends, they should be sticking out about 1mm outside the diameter of the base:

Step10_zps559022e3.jpg


Step 11: Take your spheroid bell top and wrap the 2.5cm x 4.5cm Juwel filter polypad around it, not tight and not too loose:

Step11_zps25a9db45.jpg


Step 12: Place the spheroid shell around the bell top and screw into place trying to make sure no Juwel filter is on the thread of the bell top:

Step12_zpsff478cf2.jpg


Step 13: Make some adjustments of the Juwel filter to make sure it is nicely and equally fitted into the spheroid shell and nothing is blocking the center tube:

Step13_zps9760cb9f.jpg


Step 14: Choose your chosen juice and fill up a syringe (i prefer syringe) and insert the syringe down the side of the Juwel filter right too the bottom and fill up (i get around 2.5 too 3ml of juice).....once you see the top of the Juwel filter full of juice stop filling, if you have over done it get some tissue and soak up the overfill:

Step14a_zpse820e3fa.jpg


Step14b_zpsc7249bca.jpg


Step 15: Get your base and wet the cotton wick with your chosen juice and check to see if all is working fine and to see if there are any hotspots, if all is fine point the cotton legs upwards and screw into the shell making sure the ends are touching the Juwel filter:

Step15_zpsafa68ae7.jpg


Step 16: All done and you can now vape away on one of the best tasting attys:

Step17_zps74b8ea2b.jpg
 

vapspaz

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I see what you are saying. Sometimes my center post turns a bit when I change attys or batteries, and I have to readjust a bit for battery rattle.
I think your solution for Teflon tape should work. Especially if you are using the same atty on the same PAPS. I would try just a couple of wraps and trim it close to the post thread end (opposite the knurled ends)
Let us know how it works.
edit to add that it's possible to tighten the end of the Kayfun a bit, you'll have to carefully grip the posts to prevent them from turning.

Yes, I have already tightened the positive post on the KFL as tight as I can get it. It only protrudes beyond the 510 threads maybe 0.40 mm


If your goal is to protect your top cap can you try protecting it with some tape or a piece of vinyl sticker cut to shape? Doesn't have to be perfect since it will be hidden under the KFL. Just slightly smaller than the diameter.
Once you the tape is applied, you can then snug everything up without worrying about harming the top cap. This will also give the KFL more support without the 510 bearing the load on its own.

Nope. My goal is not to protect my Paps. I have plenty of circular scratches on it now that makes it all mine. Sorta like a nice worn pair of blue jeans. ;) I just mentioned that in my post to let y'all know I love my little baby but trust me, I use the living hell out of it. Thankfully I haven't dropped it on concrete yet like I have my Provari but I know the day will come. :blush:


or just use it :) I used to be much more protective of my devices. I have always been that way with everything that I "collect" Knives, devices, shoes/clothes whatever.
My brother gave me a really cool knife several years ago from the UK. It is beautiful. I have just basically stared at it for several years, never wanting to use it because it was too nice. I realized a few weeks ago that if I walked out of my house and for some reason dropped dead (not hoping for this obviously :)) that I would have never used this cool knife. It was at that moment that I realized that I did not know what I was saving all this stuff for? I made a conscious decision at that point to enjoy and use what I have. :)

Life is TOO short. I get it. I hate when I see a scratch on my car, or a rip in a favorite sweatshirt. But at the same time sort of along the lines of what Idaho was saying last night, we should be using and enjoying what we have. Buying things just to collect dust is really a waste.

That being said, I have not yet been able to bring myself to sell some of my precious collectables. I am working towards that though. Baby steps :)


Yup! I couldn't agree more. ;) As I mentioned in my first post in this thread about a month ago, that's why I bought a Paps v2.5 SS. I'm a utilitarian kinda guy so I spend my $$ on things that are proven to be tough and can hold up to my daily abuse. I can't stand the thought of collecting things like PV's. Even if I could afford to, I wouldn't because I was not raised that way. I'm just a working stiff that wants to make his money go as far as possible. Hence the reason I got me a Paps! ;)


I am sorry for not keeping up on the issue so some of this may be repetitive. Hello!
On any atty change or placement always remove the top cap and install. Adjust the 510 post as needed. I also would reconsider use of the thicker battery post, Perseas is correct, use it . As the thicker the head the less the post has to be unscrewed outwardly to connect and will counter a bit of the wobble. Once they are settled and the top cap is in place on the tube, future battery changes should be made from the bottom switch as this will alleviate a bit of the tele posts adjusting on their own.
Also, the top cap...they are certainly gorgeous but, imo meant for use. The small circle that may develop is is character use to me. They are also a snap to polish back up to a mirror finish. This I can guarantee.

Enjoy!

Nope. See my problem is that I already don't have enough room inside the battery chamber. If you re-read my previous post you'll see where I said something about having to almost bottom out the battery pin into the positive post. By using the thicker one it would make matters even worse because then I would have to push the positive post up to make room and then I would have a larger gap between the KFL and the Paps.
And yes, I always change out the batteries from the bottom cap.




Man, I must really suck at describing things in text. LOL :facepalm: Sorry folks.



Thank you all for offering some advise. I greatly appreciate it.
I'm going to try the Teflon tape thing when I get a chance and see if that snugs it up enough to keep it from moving around.
 

Kataphraktos

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A question up for debate, if anybody is interested in the conversation:

Do you believe the microcoil is the end-all and be-all of coils?

I believe this to be the case. More people are converting to the microcoil every day, in pretty much every type of atty. The thread dedicated to microcoils is huge, I know of no other "type" of coil build with its own thread, let alone a thread that popular.

If I had any attys that were not microcoil-friendly, I would sell them at this point.
 

Woody7781

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A question up for debate, if anybody is interested in the conversation:

Do you believe the microcoil is the end-all and be-all of coils?

I believe this to be the case. More people are converting to the microcoil every day, in pretty much every type of atty. The thread dedicated to microcoils is huge, I know of no other "type" of coil build with its own thread, let alone a thread that popular.

If I had any attys that were not microcoil-friendly, I would sell them at this point.

There are so many different types of microcoils. Using different wires, twisted, Mundy's Magic. But I agree. After I did my first micro there is no going back to regular ones. It will continue to be a game of what's the new technique. I'm sure there will be a creation if some crazy wire that improves things a bit, but hard to say if anything surpasses micro coils.
 

Akdare

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fasteddie

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So 5 mins after my earlier post and no more than 1 mile away from home the Sophia stopped working, pulled the multimeter out of the van and the coil had gone:ohmy: Just got back, turns out one of the welds had failed, banged in a standard coil for ease. This too seems to be working a treat.
Thanks again folks, I knew this would be the place to ask!



A question up for debate, if anybody is interested in the conversation:

Do you believe the microcoil is the end-all and be-all of coils?

I believe this to be the case. More people are converting to the microcoil every day, in pretty much every type of atty. The thread dedicated to microcoils is huge, I know of no other "type" of coil build with its own thread, let alone a thread that popular.


If I had any attys that were not microcoil-friendly, I would sell them at this point.

I am a convert, there are a number of reasons why micro-coils are better IMHO. Longevity being the main one, maintenance is much easier and a wick change takes less than 2 mins with stripping and cleaning. I think with cotton the taste is better but not lightyears ahead of silicon. I have been running the a couple of the same micros for over a month now and still no sign of problems.
I also think once you know how micros are easier to build.
Just need a zapper now so I can get some 'proper' micros in the sophia(or the one that shall never be mentioned again!;))
 

fasteddie

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Yup! I couldn't agree more. ;) As I mentioned in my first post in this thread about a month ago, that's why I bought a Paps v2.5 SS. I'm a utilitarian kinda guy so I spend my $$ on things that are proven to be tough and can hold up to my daily abuse. I can't stand the thought of collecting things like PV's. Even if I could afford to, I wouldn't because I was not raised that way. I'm just a working stiff that wants to make his money go as far as possible. Hence the reason I got me a Paps! ;)




Nope. See my problem is that I already don't have enough room inside the battery chamber. If you re-read my previous post you'll see where I said something about having to almost bottom out the battery pin into the positive post. By using the thicker one it would make matters even worse because then I would have to push the positive post up to make room and then I would have a larger gap between the KFL and the Paps.
And yes, I always change out the batteries from the bottom cap.




Man, I must really suck at describing things in text. LOL :facepalm: Sorry folks.



Thank you all for offering some advise. I greatly appreciate it.
I'm going to try the Teflon tape thing when I get a chance and see if that snugs it up enough to keep it from moving around.

So i am thinking from your post, if i got this right, you need a shorter top cap adjuster?

If that is correct you will need the V2.6 post as Perseas mentioned earlier. Or, if you are feeling confident you can sand down the smaller of the screws you have. I have done this to one of my spare before the V2.6 came out, if you take some abrasive to the head of the battery screw you can take that down to about 1mm if I remember correctly and you can also take a bit off the atty adjustment screw at the top where it meets your kayfun. I managed to grab another 2mm ish which was enough to close the tubes up. A V2.6 post would do this for you though.

Totally agree with you about using your stuff. I have a real thing for high quality engineering, my paps bring a smile to my face everytime I pick them up(or glance in that general direction:wub:). Why would I want to use anything else? I have real difficulty with anything else now cos it was just pissing me off, nothing else I have owned or tried quite hits the GP spot. Everyone of my mods get used daily it's only the Lux stays at home, and that's because I would like to have just one mint mod and atty. All of the others have been dropped, and have the battle scars to show for it. It's a real testament to these mods the abuse they can withstand, so many other devices would have gone to the great vape lounge in the sky by now!
 

qorax

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A question up for debate, if anybody is interested in the conversation:
Do you believe the microcoil is the end-all and be-all of coils?
I believe this to be the case. More people are converting to the microcoil every day, in pretty much every type of atty. The thread dedicated to microcoils is huge, I know of no other "type" of coil build with its own thread, let alone a thread that popular.

If I had any attys that were not microcoil-friendly, I would sell them at this point.

Yes, I do. IMHO!
Everything, everything that I have today is loaded with a Microcoil & Cotton. All coils are with 28AWG Kanthal, between 0.8Ω to 1.3Ω, while some wicks are of Cotton Ball/s and the others with S-n-C Cotton Yarn (courtesy Xtreme - Love him for that!).

I have successfully (and happily) inserted Micro/Cottons into Carto-RBAs as well, the Sophia, Killer705 and the Diver v2. Obviously my Kayfun3.1ES, Kayfun Lite, Russian, Spheroid, Fogger v2, Euforia and the Oddy have it as well

For me ~ there's just no going back. Taste, Vapor Production, TH and Wicking are just phenomenal with the Micro/Cotton builds. I feel these Micro setups assist in wicking... behaves much better ~ no dry-hits and no gurgles ever. And also no spitfires. Besides they dole out that kinda warm-vape which I seem to fallen in love with... No Cold-Shoulder there ~ which is nice!
BTW, I've never visited that Microcoil Thread on ECF
surprised-002.gif
 

9ball_AJ

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Micro Coils and cotton are a great vape, but I do still use ekowool with a standard coil from time to time when I want or need durability in the wick. But imo, there's nothing better than an SS mesh build with a standard coil with kanthal, either round or flat.
 

perseas

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Thank you all for offering some advise. I greatly appreciate it.
I'm going to try the Teflon tape thing when I get a chance and see if that snugs it up enough to keep it from moving around.

A small spring from a ballpoint pen between the 2 screws should create enough tension to keep them still.
 
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