GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 2
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There's no change in my Vapourart transaction status (I've been checking that pretty regularly), but yeah, my PayPal transaction was completed today!
My paypal transaction was completed and it also reflects on the VapourArt site. It will most likely update soon.
Just got my spheroid. Finding the flavour to be good - but finding it a VERY tight draw.
I'm sure this has been covered more then once - but there are a LOT of messages here to trawl through.
I'm seeing one small air hole above the 510 thread. One hole below the wick. And three small holes inside the base cap.
Which - if any - of these should I tease open a bit?
Has anyone found a method (an easy method) to enlarge these holes without using an "actual" drill bit? 'Coz I don't have one
I advise not to fiddle with the positive pin with the 3 holes. The air hole between the posts should have a diameter about 1,25 mm and 1 mm is the diameter of each hole of the 510 bottom cap. Mind you, if your wick is too much or very near to the air hole or the bell, it may restrict the draw. Moreover, if the base has remnants of liquids the draw becomes tight.
*disclaimer. The Heron is designed to be used with a filler material that holds your e-liquid in a tank above the wicks making it nearly 100% leak proof. It was not designed to be used as I am , though it works for me and does not leak it may not work for you.
*disclaimer. The Heron is designed to be used with a filler material that holds your e-liquid in a tank above the wicks making it nearly 100% leak proof. It was not designed to be used as I am , though it works for me and does not leak it may not work for you.
More info on the glass tank please??
*disclaimer. The Heron is designed to be used with a filler material that holds your e-liquid in a tank above the wicks making it nearly 100% leak proof. It was not designed to be used as I am , though it works for me and does not leak it may not work for you.
Yes, Please do tell.
I'll probably use the Heron with the regular SS tank and fluff for the most part, but it's nice to have options 
That's why I was so eager to figure out if builds without fluff could be used successfully. The tanks weren't super cheap and I had to know.
I'm going to put some fluff in the glass tank at some point too just to see how it looks with fluff and no topper , could be cool seeing your wicks and coil springing to life etc.
Anyways, here's the link
http://www.ibtanked.com/custom-cut-...roduct/22-0mm-x-1-0mm-quartz-custom-cut-tubes
I had them cut to 30mm in length , the same as the SS Heron tank.
That's why I was so eager to figure out if builds without fluff could be used successfully. The tanks weren't super cheap and I had to know.
I'm going to put some fluff in the glass tank at some point too just to see how it looks with fluff and no topper , could be cool seeing your wicks and coil springing to life etc.
Anyways, here's the link
http://www.ibtanked.com/custom-cut-...roduct/22-0mm-x-1-0mm-quartz-custom-cut-tubes
I had them cut to 30mm in length , the same as the SS Heron tank.
I'll probably use the Heron with the regular SS tank and fluff for the most part, but it's nice to have options
That's why I was so eager to figure out if builds without fluff could be used successfully. The tanks weren't super cheap and I had to know.
I'm going to put some fluff in the glass tank at some point too just to see how it looks with fluff and no topper , could be cool seeing your wicks and coil springing to life etc.
Anyways, here's the link
22.0mm x 1.0mm Quartz Custom Cut Tubes
I had them cut to 30mm in length , the same as the SS Heron tank.
That's awesome. Thanks for sharing. You never cease to amaze me my friend.
Had to refinish the R91 before bed.
Wow!
One of the biggest issues I had with the Russian was the finish. It worked flawlessly but I just didn't like the way it matched my mods. I know performance is what really matters but I spend I nice chunk of change on the pv's I buy and like them to look as if they are made for one an other.
How difficult is this to accomplish.
As always, thanks
I'll probably use the Heron with the regular SS tank and fluff for the most part, but it's nice to have options
That's why I was so eager to figure out if builds without fluff could be used successfully. The tanks weren't super cheap and I had to know.
I'm going to put some fluff in the glass tank at some point too just to see how it looks with fluff and no topper , could be cool seeing your wicks and coil springing to life etc.
Anyways, here's the link
http://www.ibtanked.com/custom-cut-...roduct/22-0mm-x-1-0mm-quartz-custom-cut-tubes
I had them cut to 30mm in length , the same as the SS Heron tank.
I assume that you tried the SnP glass tank and that did not work?
Just got my spheroid. Finding the flavour to be good - but finding it a VERY tight draw.
I'm sure this has been covered more then once - but there are a LOT of messages here to trawl through.
I'm seeing one small air hole above the 510 thread. One hole below the wick. And three small holes inside the base cap.
Which - if any - of these should I tease open a bit?
Has anyone found a method (an easy method) to enlarge these holes without using an "actual" drill bit? 'Coz I don't have one
The draw on my Spheroids depends on my mod. In the Microstick, on the Lux and on the SuperT 14500, it is fine. On my Provaris, it is too tight. That is why, if I ever want to use it on a Provari, I use it with the Hippo, to provide AFC. Just a thought, make sure it is too tight on any all of your mods first.
Better pictures now that it's morning.
I'm really happy with how this turned out. It's very close to the finish on the X.
I just used the GP PnB tool , sand paper and a Scotch Brite pad and a dremel.
I'll also add that his was my first time trying to do something of this magnitude , it was 1am and I was a few pints in. If I can do tired and with a buzz anyone can do it lol.
600 grit wet sand paper to take the original finish off. Getting in to every crack wasn't really that hard actually. Just rolled up some paper and used it to get all the crevasses.
Then I used a bit of moisture a and the Scotch Brite pad and with the dremel gave a good scrub getting right in to all the small spots again. This softened the finish but it still didn't have that 'uneven' look that GP is so amazing at. It was more of a smooth finish still.
After I washed and dried it all I just took a dry Scotch Brite to it by hand and worked on it till I was happy.
I'm really happy with how this turned out. It's very close to the finish on the X.
I just used the GP PnB tool , sand paper and a Scotch Brite pad and a dremel.
I'll also add that his was my first time trying to do something of this magnitude , it was 1am and I was a few pints in. If I can do tired and with a buzz anyone can do it lol.
600 grit wet sand paper to take the original finish off. Getting in to every crack wasn't really that hard actually. Just rolled up some paper and used it to get all the crevasses.
Then I used a bit of moisture a and the Scotch Brite pad and with the dremel gave a good scrub getting right in to all the small spots again. This softened the finish but it still didn't have that 'uneven' look that GP is so amazing at. It was more of a smooth finish still.
After I washed and dried it all I just took a dry Scotch Brite to it by hand and worked on it till I was happy.
The SnP tank is too small diameter wise and it would also not be the correct height. It needs to be an exact height for the bell to seal on the oring on top of the topper piece above the deck.
Had to refinish the R91 before bed.
Better pictures now that it's morning.
I'm really happy with how this turned out. It's very close to the finish on the X.
I just used the GP PnB tool , sand paper and a Scotch Brite pad and a dremel.
I'll also add that his was my first time trying to do something of this magnitude , it was 1am and I was a few pints in. If I can do tired and with a buzz anyone can do it lol.
600 grit wet sand paper to take the original finish off. Getting in to every crack wasn't really that hard actually. Just rolled up some paper and used it to get all the crevasses.
Then I used a bit of moisture a and the Scotch Brite pad and with the dremel gave a good scrub getting right in to all the small spots again. This softened the finish but it still didn't have that 'uneven' look that GP is so amazing at. It was more of a smooth finish still.
After I washed and dried it all I just took a dry Scotch Brite to it by hand and worked on it till I was happy.
Thank you very much Sir. I will begin my hunt for a Russian today. I decided ill probably keep my Provari and that would look great on it.
Much appreciated and great job, looks great.
Yes - makes sense. I was using it on a JustGG. Which is good for "air from the bottom" of the atty. Not so good with air from the side...
Glad you said that about a provari - I was nearly there for one of them.
Pleased to hear about the microstick though - waiting for the "got stock" email there...
Now - even off a mod completely - it's still too tight a draw. Where are people drilling to get more air? If you know the answer of course...
Thanks...
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