GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 3

[h00ligan]

I find that a long soaking in an acidic tomato product like ketchup or hot sauce really helps to clean the parts of the brass GPin. I've used Taco Bell hot sauce packets when at work, but I typically make a mixture of ketchup with a bit of vinegar and let the parts soak for like an hour. I've cleaned the individual parts with a sunshine cloth and it's tedious and painful to polish the smaller parts and ridges. I do prefer the much lower maintenance of a plated GPin.

That's what i do for copper too. But does it recover the shine on brass? With copper it just removed tarnish it doesn't really return the sheen to anything leaving it matte


I've read about some polish pads and also mothers mag. Are these for correcting issues in the finish due to (ab)use

Is there any issue soaking 316Lparts in white vinegar to sanitize ?

After an antibacterial dish soap Soak and rinsing I do An 8 minute sonic cleaning

I ordered the PnB kit and i've seen the transformation videos but is there an application for this kit for general maintenance Or
Is it just for changing finishes with sand paper or removing scratches?? Is there some
Extremely high count sandpaper to use with this for more regular (maybe monthly) maintenance?

Does anyone have an idea for a container that would Allow free flow of water but not let things like small Screws out when suspended under running water ? I considered using ladies nylons tied off for this. Maybe it's unnecessary but I'm not sure how resistant 316L is to rust if left
In water for an extended period - say an hour

I see a couple of second hand mods I have which just seem dull and want to avoid my GP stuff getting that way if possible. I bet a small amount of effort with the expert guidance here could even bring those back to good looking.

 

[Firestorm]

That's what i do for copper too. But does it recover the shine on brass? With copper it just removed tarnish it doesn't really return the sheen to anything leaving it matte

I don't claim what I use to be a magic salve that cleans patina off brass as well and amazingly as Tarn-X cleans tarnish off silver. It most certainly will not come out of a tomato bath looking as shinny as the day you received it from Vapourart, but it definitely helps. I think that when used in conjunction with manually polishing it will reduce a lot of the manual effort.

 

[h00ligan]

I don't claim what I use to be a magic salve that cleans patina off brass as well and amazingly as Tarn-X cleans tarnish off silver. It most certainly will not come out of a tomato bath looking as shinny as the day you received it from Vapourart, but it definitely helps. I think that when used in conjunction with manually polishing it will reduce a lot of the manual effort.

Thanks I figured. So what to use for manually polishing those disposable pads? Isn't there some kind of a reusable polishing cloth or something ?

Sorry that's what I was after. I know nothing about jewelry or metal or anything like this.

 

[Firestorm]

I'm not aware of any kind of reusable polishing cloth, although I'm no expert. The yellow sunshine cloths that I use collect the patina and turn black as you use them - when one turns all black I throw it away and take out a new one. I can't envision a reusable polishing cloth unless there was a way to clean it.

 

[h00ligan]

I'm not aware of any kind of reusable polishing cloth, although I'm no expert. The yellow sunshine cloths that I use collect the patina and turn black as you use them - when one turns all black I throw it away and take out a new one. I can't envision a reusable polishing cloth unless there was a way to clean it.

Ok great. I'll look for those sunshine cloths then. Thank you.

This is what I was initially planning on getting

Amazon.com - Cape Cod[emoji768] Metal Polishing Cloths Foil Pouch 0.53oz - Household Cleaning Wipes And Cloths

 

[MsLoud]

I use Nevr-Dull (I think that is correct) and love it. I polish my Trev rings and end caps for my Provaris and they polish to a high shine. Brass and SS.

 

[MsLoud]

Home Page
This is it

 

[landman2k1]

Ok great. I'll look for those sunshine cloths then. Thank you.

This is what I was initially planning on getting

Amazon.com - Cape Cod[emoji768] Metal Polishing Cloths Foil Pouch 0.53oz - Household Cleaning Wipes And Cloths

This is where I picked up the Sunshine Cloth. I could be wrong, it's been awhile since I researched it, but seem to remember something about the Cap Cod's having abrasives in them, which is why I opted for the Sunshine.

 

[Zbeast08]

I find that a long soaking in an acidic tomato product like ketchup or hot sauce really helps to clean the parts of the brass GPin. I've used Taco Bell hot sauce packets when at work, but I typically make a mixture of ketchup with a bit of vinegar and let the parts soak for like an hour. I've cleaned the individual parts with a sunshine cloth and it's tedious and painful to polish the smaller parts and ridges. I do prefer the much lower maintenance of a plated GPin.

Thank you for the response. Those little pins and pieces are tough. The others that commented are appreciated but was after a cleaning/soaking method for the top caps, switches and components of these!! The tubes are easy peasy with PnB and/or cape cod cloths which I use!!
Any other suggestions are welcomed!!


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[h00ligan]

Thank you for the response. Those little pins and pieces are tough. The others that commented are appreciated but was after a cleaning/soaking method for the top caps, switches and components of these!! The tubes are easy peasy with PnB and/or cape cod cloths which I use!!
Any other suggestions are welcomed!!


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So,you use the pnb to maintain? So what do I use for just say a weekly tidy up. Obviously sandpaper is used for refinishing. Just cleaning you use the pnb with cap cod cloths around?

This is where I picked up the Sunshine Cloth. I could be wrong, it's been awhile since I researched it, but seem to remember something about the Cap Cod's having abrasives in them, which is why I opted for the Sunshine.

Yah I was worked the cape cod cloths would mess up the brushing

Maybe I'll try the sunshine and the cape cod for another mod. I guess the question is for a non polished stainless will it ppthe cape cod then make it look halfway polished if I use the cape cod. That would be bad.

It remarkable what a solid cleaning in the sonic does too. Neither of my GP stuff needs to be polished yet beyond the piccoloid brass button and maybe the bottom ring. But if I do a good upkeep weekly / monthly then it may never need it. Or not for a long while. Weekly I'd say all I'd do is the sonic cleaning. More than that every week is probably counterproductive

 

[Firestorm]

Yah I was worked the cape cod cloths would mess up the brushing

Maybe I'll try the sunshine and the cape cod for another mod. I guess the question is for a non polished stainless will it ppthe cape cod then make it look halfway polished if I use the cape cod. That would be bad. Is the sunshine really any different than a microfiber towel?

I'm not sure why you would want to polish stainless steel as part of regular maintenance. The PnB adapter is great for refinishing stainless steel if you want to remove scratches or change the finish, but otherwise, the 316L stainless steel that Vapourart uses won't tarnish, patina, or rust. I would use a microfiber cloth if you want to remove fingerprints from polished stainless steel and just leave brushed stainless steel alone. You can use a sunshine cloth to lightly wipe down a polished mod (the more force that you exert the more abrasive it will be) but I wouldn't use it at all on a brushed mod (I would use a microfiber cloth instead as it is much softer, although I've never had a need to wipe down a brushed stainless steel mod as it doesn't show fingerprints anyway).

 

[stillnotsmoking]

I use mothers mag polish and a polish wheel on a bench grinder for polsihing, for matte or brushed finishes I usually use a green dish scrub pad as it makes for easy and quick touch ups

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[jwj63]

Green scotchbright pads are the duct tape of the vaping world!

I use mothers mag polish and a polish wheel on a bench grinder for polsihing, for matte or brushed finishes I usually use a green dish scrub pad as it makes for easy and quick touch ups

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[MsLoud]

Sigh - lost one of my v2 thumb nuts

Any know the size I need? GP is out of stock and hate to pay that much for shipping for a few screws...I'll be saving to either upgrade to the philips screws (2.5 upgrade) or just get the v3 bases for my 3 Spheroids.

 

[stillnotsmoking]

@perseas if we know that when finishing piccoloid, etc that the engravings "move" Xmm is it not possible to offset the engravings in anticipation of this so they more closely align?

Just brainstorming

Thanks

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[h00ligan]

Green scotchbright pads are the duct tape of the vaping world!

Really? I've never used them for anything. I had no idea they were remotely useful for anything to be honest.
Thanks for the thoughts guys on the cleaning.

To clarify I don't want to Polish my go mods as a regular Point of maintenance. That was my not so clear point. I dinner microfiber cloths out of the sonic cleaner to dry and clean them. I also wanted to make sure indigent do anything stupid to destroy the finish.

I was curious about the tarnish / patina : etc. and I was just thinking with the pnb kit I could use it
On other things maybe to make them
Look better. Since GP makes the kit i figured I'd ask here as some of You may have bought and used it. I've only see the videos where it's used to create a high shine finish but previous in the thread I believe someone mentioned they use the kit as part of maintenance and I was curious how
It Would be used in that capacity. That's all. The sunshine cloth I was planning on focusing towards the brass button and he polished part of the piccoloid as well as the bottom Of the HnP. Though it doesn't seem abrasive enough to cause issues.

I have one mod and tank in particular I feel has greatly dulled over time and I'd like to make it
A bit better as I'm actually going to Sell it On probably - the pnb kit looks Like a clever little kit to help do that but I realize it's a pretty ancillary topic so I'm sorry for occupying space here and confusing the topic with care of HnP and piccoloid.

Finally
Has anyone here done the dhl pickup thing?
I got and email from them asking a bunch of questions - they stated the answers had been given by GP and they wanted confirmation but the form was empty. Mailed it back completed Friday and haven't heard back. I want to make sure I'm not creating delays for GP

Happy Monday everyone! Off to a bit of s sad start losing an icon in David Bowie.

 

[h00ligan]

Hey all is there a fluff tutorial for the heron v2 you can point me towards. It's not just the fluff amounts and such I also need to learn how to wick it for fluff as ice never used it before. Don't just lay the wick up and let it drop on the sides of the fluff?

Anyway I understand he fluff portion but wicking is different from the it oriels j can find so I'm a bit lost in that part


Replacement HnP arrived today. Thanks so much again gp

By the way the air hole lines up much better on this one - I guess that's coincidental but it does

Or it was them making sure they got me a perfect product.

 

[h00ligan]

Oh by the way. No strange metal flavor. Did I say that?!

 

[cliffy15]

I'd make a pictorial, but I'm still working out the kinks in mine as I still can't keep it from flooding a little bit while pocketing it and walking. If I keep it completely vertical (inverted) it's fine but that doesn't always happen. This seems to happen even if there's only a small amount of liquid left.

The trick to it, like any build, is getting the right amount of wick. Not enough and you'll flood. Too much and you'll get dry hits or lessened taste. If you've been building regularly this isn't anything new. When wicking, I generally cut the wick length to the end of the deck ring then raise them a little before replacing the Heron tube. (I'm using a single wick with a long tail into the chamber, here, but I would recommend starting with two wicks). This picture is of a 5/6 wrap, 2.4mm "microcoil" wicked with KGD cotton ... and my coil is a bit off center. Not on purpose.

However, the density of fluff (matching the viscosity of liquid you're using) is important with the same effects as too much or too little wick.

The width (the length of the bell shaft) seems to be somewhat of a personal preference as long as it doesn't extend past the end of the bell (the part that seals with the chimney).

For reference, I use 120-130mm with my 50/50 DIY liquids. Perseas, as mentioned, uses less for high vg (more viscous) liquids at 90mm. I've been keeping my fluff width at 12mm recently.

Wrap the fluff around the bell shaft... But not tightly. I like to have to compress it a little while inserting it into the Heron tube. I then use a small screwdriver to adjust the fluff (unwind it a little) until it is even then tamp it slightly down before filling.

When filling, I try to use a needle tip our a bottle with a thin nozzle to squeeze liquid into the fluff and not simply drop liquid on it. The first fill usually takes awhile since it is dry and needed to saturate.

It cab be tricky to know when to stop. If I see the liquid completely saturating the fluff and pooling on top that is likely too much.

This, however, is just my build.I'd definitely like to hear how others are doing especially so do I can eliminate the occasional minor flooding that I get.

 

[cliffy15]

By the way the air hole lines up much better on this one - I guess that's coincidental but it does

Btw, mine lines up exactly opposite of yours but doesn't bother me any