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just curious but wouldnt they outlast reg atty's even for vaping at 3.7? I am going to put this atty on my 905 and see how it fairs in comparison to my old broken in atty and let you know what difference I am getting.
I would just think it would be nicer all around.
Drew??
The higher resistance makes HV vape at lower voltages. they roughly knock 2v off the total voltage ur vaping.Regular Attys need just abt every bit of 3.7v to get them vaping, but HV attys need more like 5v+ just to get em going. Therefore, putting them on 3.7v is lowering the voltage to abt 1.7v, therefore resulting in no vapor at all. I hope this helps....I know vaping HV attys at 7.4v feels more like 5-6v...Basically they are considered Higher resistance attys...the more resistance, the more they resist the urge to work - unless pushed harder...and in this case Higher Votages Push them harder...
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Well, thanks for the info. I like a regular 510 set up...so I guess I will just stick w the standard stuff. I am hard on atomizers for some reason - I was thinking maybe the HV would be more durable...but if its just a matter of resistance...it won't help me.
When I first started ecig-ing..I thought "oh, fantastic..I can carry it in my back jeans pocket!"...not such a good idea...I burned out 3 atomizers that way (inadvertantly depressing the button at random times). But now I try to take care of them...they just don't ever seem to last past a month or so. hmmm.
When I first started ecig-ing..I thought "oh, fantastic..I can carry it in my back jeans pocket!"...not such a good idea...I burned out 3 atomizers that way (inadvertantly depressing the button at random times). But now I try to take care of them...they just don't ever seem to last past a month or so. hmmm.
I just got mine...ok, 5 minutes ago but while I was a 5-6 volt hater, even tho I own 3 mods, I think it might be ok. I tried Crashes advice to start, using 2-3.6 battys and I can tell a difference already. I never made it past a few puffs with the origional 510 atty. So far...so good.
Ok, I'm seeing a few statements and claims being made here that are just inaccurate, so (being the **** that I am) I just have to jump in with my .02.
First, 3.7V batts charge to 4.2V (when they get to 3.7 it's time to recharge), so if you run two of them fully charged, you are vaping 8.4V. But I agree, that's just being nitpicky.
What is really rubbing me the wrong way is the claim that these attys 'drop 2volts'. That statement is just incorrect and misleading. All attys are going to 'drop' the full voltage applied to them. It's just basic Ohms Law.
The only way that it could possibly drop 2V is if a) your batts are 2V or b) there is a resistor wired in series with the atty coil (I don't think this is the case, but apologize for this post if it is). Even if there is a resistor in it (besides the coil), the amount of voltage drop accross that resistor is going to depend on the coil resistance and the voltage applied.
So what I'm really wondering is, How did Nhaler come up with that claim?? What is it based on??
Don't get me wrong, I'm not bashing the HV attys. They do serve the purpose for which they are intended (which is to keep they atty from blowing and burning at higher voltages), but the claim of dropping 2V is just confusing to me.
Edit: To Crash and others...my first paragraph above was not directed at you... It was meant to be a response to Drew's post (#38).
Drew, not personal, just think the supplier should be accurate with the info they are giving. ... love your juice
so don't blacklist me or anything8-o
First, 3.7V batts charge to 4.2V (when they get to 3.7 it's time to recharge
), so if you run two of them fully charged, you are vaping 8.4V. But I agree, that's just being nitpicky.What is really rubbing me the wrong way is the claim that these attys 'drop 2volts'. That statement is just incorrect and misleading. All attys are going to 'drop' the full voltage applied to them. It's just basic Ohms Law.
The only way that it could possibly drop 2V is if a) your batts are 2V or b) there is a resistor wired in series with the atty coil (I don't think this is the case, but apologize for this post if it is). Even if there is a resistor in it (besides the coil), the amount of voltage drop accross that resistor is going to depend on the coil resistance and the voltage applied.
So what I'm really wondering is, How did Nhaler come up with that claim?? What is it based on??
Don't get me wrong, I'm not bashing the HV attys. They do serve the purpose for which they are intended (which is to keep they atty from blowing and burning at higher voltages), but the claim of dropping 2V is just confusing to me.
Edit: To Crash and others...my first paragraph above was not directed at you
... It was meant to be a response to Drew's post (#38).Drew, not personal, just think the supplier should be accurate with the info they are giving. ... love your juice
so don't blacklist me or anything8-o
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It's in the ohms highping...the atomizers that drewsworld (nhaler) carries are 5.2 ohms. Apply the math and it reduces voltage load to atty by ~2 volts.
Check out this thread for the detailed info:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...terest-check-custom-resistance-atomizers.html
Ed
Check out this thread for the detailed info:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...terest-check-custom-resistance-atomizers.html
Ed
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Well explain why my brand new HV atty with 5.2 ohms on the dot runs at higher voltage under load then my current 510 atty i've been using the past week at 3 ohms.
I just tested it and i could not believe it and tested it again and again swaping between the 2 attys.
Brand new HV 510 atty @ 5.2 ohms on the Xhaler (tight cap):
Unloaded = 6.60v
Loaded = 6 VOLTS! 8-o
Regular 510 atty @ 3ohms
Unloaded = 6.6v
Loaded = 5.40-60ish volts
I guess you could say its defective but umm.. it reads 5.2ohms like its supposed to. I guess its not a high enough ohms to lower the voltage. maybe needs to be 10 ohms?
P.S. This is a brand new tube and switch i just got yesterday from Drew. 5.40v is the normal average vape under load that i've found on the Xhaler and also tested it yesterday when i got the new tube and switch.
P.P.S. I even tried it on a 3.7v mod and the HV atty works so its obviously not tweaked enough to lower the voltage.
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Yeah, I've read that. There's all kinds of squirrely math going on in that thread.
Bottom line is that it's very basic DC electronics laws at play in a PV. And it doesn't matter what the ohm rating is, the voltage dropped across a resistor (heating coil in this case) equals the voltage applied to that resistor. You put 1 volt on a 10000 ohm resistor and there is going to be a 1 volt drop across it. You put 1 zillion volts across a (gynormous) 1 ohm resistor and the drop across it is going to be a zillion volts. (and before anybody tells me, I know a zillion isn't a number
)The only thing that will change this is if there is a second resistor in the circuit wired in series. Then the math comes into play and it would depend on the ohm rating of the two resistors as to what percentage of the applied voltage is being dropped across each. I don't think that is the case here, unless there is a second resistor cramed into the atty somewhere.
Now, if you are talking about the amount of voltage that the battery drops when a load is placed on it, it's a completely different thing. But if that is what is being refered to in the claim, it's still (even more) wrong. The batt is going to drop the supplied voltage more if the resistance is less (ie load is higher).
Regardless, I just wanted to know where they came up with the "drops 2V" claim.
I am expecting mine in a day or two, so I haven't gotten a chance to try for myself yet. The link I posted was for reference as to the theory applied in the concept of these custom HV attys. A lot of people in there have been loving their HV 510's, so I'm thinking it's possibly a bad atty you got. I am also under the impression that these attys are meant for 2 x 16340 3.6v Li-Ion batts for optimal performance. I have both sets of batts to run 2 x 3.0 or 2 x 3.6, but again, my HV attys are still in route. I'll give em a ride at both to see.
eclypse, have you tried running them with 2 3.6 batts yet?
Ed
eclypse, have you tried running them with 2 3.6 batts yet?
Ed
Feels the same as if it was a new atty that needs a day to break in. I'm currently using 2x 3.v batts.. strange how others said it was weak like it was'nt producting any favor. Like i said i'm getting good vapor with a 3.7v device with this HV atty as well which should'nt be happening if it was dropping the voltage.
No, i never got around to buying the small 3.7v batteries as i wanted 5v only. Kinda glad i didnt order them with the tight budget now after placing the large order with drew the other day.
Oh just wanted to add that there may be a prob with the atty as its making crazy poping noises while using it. heh Even the first vap was a loud POP sound. Got my heart raising as i was'nt expecting it.. I remember reading somewhere where someone else mentioned the poping sound.
So maybe its bad.
So maybe its bad.
Just took a hit off it again tailgating and its just went POP again and i felt the pressure in my mouth.. I'll take it off and leave it be as that cant be right. Something may be shorting or arcing inside.
But the hit i took off it right after was huge! So scratch that needs to be broken in. Its hittin huge.
Side note:
The Xhlaer is extremely bad ... now with a new tube and switch! I'll be gentle with her as i dont want to over press the button and dent the inside as my other one had a couple of divits in it from either machining or from over pressing.. dont know which but i'll baby it as this puppy is a BAD ... VAPE!
One single mighty drop of HV Nhaler Juice on my 510 bridge and i can take a good solid 4-5 hits and its heaven i tell ya! 2 drops and i was flooding it.
Makes me want to find someone to engrave the phrase "BAD ... VAPE!" around the top of the brass adapter! lol
But the hit i took off it right after was huge! So scratch that needs to be broken in. Its hittin huge.
Side note:
The Xhlaer is extremely bad ... now with a new tube and switch! I'll be gentle with her as i dont want to over press the button and dent the inside as my other one had a couple of divits in it from either machining or from over pressing.. dont know which but i'll baby it as this puppy is a BAD ... VAPE!
One single mighty drop of HV Nhaler Juice on my 510 bridge and i can take a good solid 4-5 hits and its heaven i tell ya! 2 drops and i was flooding it.
Makes me want to find someone to engrave the phrase "BAD ... VAPE!" around the top of the brass adapter! lol
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I had a couple of regular 510 attys that popped somewhat when they were new. I kinda liked it - but they stopped doing it on day 3. Anyway, they're still going strong!
TC
TC
Yeah, I've read that. There's all kinds of squirrely math going on in that thread.
Bottom line is that it's very basic DC electronics laws at play in a PV. And it doesn't matter what the ohm rating is, the voltage dropped across a resistor (heating coil in this case) equals the voltage applied to that resistor. You put 1 volt on a 10000 ohm resistor and there is going to be a 1 volt drop across it. You put 1 zillion volts across a (gynormous) 1 ohm resistor and the drop across it is going to be a zillion volts. (and before anybody tells me, I know a zillion isn't a number
The only thing that will change this is if there is a second resistor in the circuit wired in series. Then the math comes into play and it would depend on the ohm rating of the two resistors as to what percentage of the applied voltage is being dropped across each. I don't think that is the case here, unless there is a second resistor cramed into the atty somewhere.
Now, if you are talking about the amount of voltage that the battery drops when a load is placed on it, it's a completely different thing. But if that is what is being refered to in the claim, it's still (even more) wrong. The batt is going to drop the supplied voltage more if the resistance is less (ie load is higher).
Regardless, I just wanted to know where they came up with the "drops 2V" claim.
Well to start off the "2 Volts" description is just for the less "tech Savy"users...The resistance is changed in the atomizer by some manufacturing technique...These actually are calculated in wattage which is relavent to the heat of the atomizer... Without trying to give anyone a lesson in Power equations and ohms law, it is easier to explain that you will be vaping at the equivalent of aproxiamatley 2 volts lower...For me to say that 6 volts produces four would IMO be misleading as 2 3V batts charge to 7.4 volts and would be vaping at 5.4 initially until leveling off...Much more info is available at the thread that was posted above...Also if you want a more detailed explanation than that you could PM (resident expert) nerf who originally coordinated the manufacture and initial sales of these attys...
Drew
For further explanation...E(volts) over I(amps) R(resistance) is ohms law...P(power or watts ) over I(amps) E(volts) is the power factor...So you realy not lowering the voltage but you are lowering the watts to decrease the heat of the atomizer and drawing less current , therefore making the batteries last longer as well...By raising the resistance the ams are iversely proportional to the amps and or power... Now you know why I described it the other way
E Divide by R equals I
P Divided by E equals I
E Divide by R equals I
P Divided by E equals I
For further explanation...E(volts) over I(amps) R(resistance) is ohms law...P(power or watts ) over I(amps) E(volts) is the power factor...So you realy not lowering the voltage but you are lowering the watts to decrease the heat of the atomizer and drawing less current , therefore making the batteries last longer as well...By raising the resistance the ams are iversely proportional to the amps and or power... Now you know why I described it the other way
E Divide by R equals I
P Divided by E equals I
So that explains it then... I wont beable to test the difference under load but by taste?
The taste and temperature... You would be measuring Amps and power not volts...Also I have had these pop like fire crackers and they seem to take around 3 times longer to break in , but once they break in they RCOK, and I have yet to blow one out...I am somewhat of an atomizer terrorist also..
For further explanation...E(volts) over I(amps) R(resistance) is ohms law...P(power or watts ) over I(amps) E(volts) is the power factor...So you realy not lowering the voltage but you are lowering the watts to decrease the heat of the atomizer and drawing less current , therefore making the batteries last longer as well...By raising the resistance the ams are iversely proportional to the amps and or power... Now you know why I described it the other way
E Divide by R equals I
P Divided by E equals I
hehe, that's not exactly gonna sell them if you put all that in the description on your web page. It's just gonna scare ppl off.8-o
Ok, fair enough. I can understand why you wanted to dumb it down for the non-electrical engineers in your customer base. But it's just such an arbitrary statement. There's no electrical or mathematical backing for it. I mean, you could say that it will handle +2V over a standard atty or that it performs the same as a standard atty a 2 volts lower and either of those statements would be true, but it's just misleading to say it drops volts. I don't know, I'm probably just being .... about it because I'm in the electronics field.
And to be fair, not to take anything away from Nerf (he is definitely one of THE gurus when it comes to PVs), but he didn't come up with the idea. In fact, the 'Chinese manufacturer' that gave him the idea that it could be done blew a pretty big venture for a friend of mine by blabbing about it. So the whole thing is kind of a sore subject for me.
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