This is the same problem I've had almost since day one. Once they start flooding I haven't been able to stop them.
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This is the same problem I've had almost since day one. Once they start flooding I haven't been able to stop them.
This is the same problem I have been having. I only had one carto that worked and it was an old one I had cleaned and used it to practice on.
I made slots with dremels, holes with the saddle valve, added more holes, filled with a syringe, 3.0's, 2.0s and 1.7 ressurectors, you name it, I've tried it. I gave up because I'd wasted so many cartos. The cartos I used were all ordered recently so I think it's got to be a filler issue.
I'd even given up reading this thread until today (I was behind 200+ posts) and had decided to give it another try until I came to these last few posts. But I did get really good at adding and removing juice from the tank with a syringe.
After over five weeks on my original syringe tank carto, I replaced it today. The flav had dipped just a lil'. But, after I installed the new one, I decided that the ol' one will definitely go into da backup box. Pretty amazing how long they last in the tanks!
Also built my first leaker tank. Determined that I 'over sized' the filler port.
At least it was a 1ml plunger plug. I can re-drill and use a 3ml plug.
Also built my first leaker tank. Determined that I 'over sized' the filler port.
At least it was a 1ml plunger plug. I can re-drill and use a 3ml plug.
I'm mainly using a 5V FBM right now, but was actually thinking of trying those on my KGO, or maybe even the 1.25 dual.
I only got 20, not long before they ran out. I'll definitely purchase some more!
ps, I luv the eMDCCs for my eGo batts!
My Resurrector has lasted 12 days but it now floods easily and if I blow it out and soak up the extra at the tip end, with a tissue it works great for awhile and starts to flood again. Don't know whats going on with the carto. Maybe thats my clue to put in a new one? I don't think its burned because it works great until it floods again, it only has 1 small hole in the carto and works great for longer that any carto's have ever lasted for me. I think this might be a case that if I rinsed it and let it dry it might work a long time again? I don't bother cleaning a carto usually because if not in a tank it burns the diaper, and no cleaning will ever fix that.
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dang it, got my syringes in the mail today and they are the flimsy small plunger. Its not what they had pictured !!! anyone know where i can get some of the good ones like he shows in the video ? I was all excited when the mail came, ive been waiting a week to try this and the a holes sent me the crap syringes !
One day we'll see cartos designed for tanks with an electrically controlled valve in the carto case. This will be controlled by sensing the filler dampness near the heater coil.
Could be DIYd with a little electronics knowledge.
Alternatively maybe we can come with a mechanical self-activating valve that opens when the filler is dry and closes when it it wet; using say a material that expands when wet to either itself close the inlet or move a closure into place. Sounds complicated but maybe there is a simple solution along these lines ...
The fact that the activating part would need to be on the inside of the carto would make in difficult to achieve with DIY though, except perhaps with clearomizers.
Could be DIYd with a little electronics knowledge.
Alternatively maybe we can come with a mechanical self-activating valve that opens when the filler is dry and closes when it it wet; using say a material that expands when wet to either itself close the inlet or move a closure into place. Sounds complicated but maybe there is a simple solution along these lines ...
The fact that the activating part would need to be on the inside of the carto would make in difficult to achieve with DIY though, except perhaps with clearomizers.
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Somewhere back in the thread, someone cut a condom for a sleeve and put it over the holes, then cut an X over the holes. It seems like this would allow juice to be pulled in while taking a drag, and help to seal it off when idle. This might keep it from soaking too much while sitting and then flooding. Has anyone been using this idea?
I have an idea that might well work, though different in concept from the valve.
Use a wick from the tank to the carto filler. I have two things in mind that come from the same source.
Felt-tip pens. Either the tip (saddle valve sized hole) or a section of the poly-clad filler that holds the ink in the bulk of the pen. This I know is very efficient at wicking but would require a larger hole. Using pliers pull the filler out a bit from one end after cutting to size so that the plastic cladding can be cut down to leave a fluffy end for the carto side.
Obviously rinse all ink out very thoroughly first. The short section of wicking would need to fit snugly into the carto case opening.
What's different with this? I think that presently the flooding occurs if/when the carto filler is not flush against the carto casing. Having a wick rather than just an opening should avoid that scenario.
The wider wick is more likely to work. A second tiny hole might be required to allow air nto the tank (perhaps nearer the top with the wick near the bottom / connector end).
Use a wick from the tank to the carto filler. I have two things in mind that come from the same source.
Felt-tip pens. Either the tip (saddle valve sized hole) or a section of the poly-clad filler that holds the ink in the bulk of the pen. This I know is very efficient at wicking but would require a larger hole. Using pliers pull the filler out a bit from one end after cutting to size so that the plastic cladding can be cut down to leave a fluffy end for the carto side.
Obviously rinse all ink out very thoroughly first. The short section of wicking would need to fit snugly into the carto case opening.
What's different with this? I think that presently the flooding occurs if/when the carto filler is not flush against the carto casing. Having a wick rather than just an opening should avoid that scenario.
The wider wick is more likely to work. A second tiny hole might be required to allow air nto the tank (perhaps nearer the top with the wick near the bottom / connector end).
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The idea sort of worked with atomisers and carts because the bridge would slightly open the X. In our case, why would it open ? A good way to reduce the hole size though.
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It wouldn't open, but should allow juice to be pulled thru it. I dunno, maybey it wouldn't work, just seemed like it might.
Might be good as a manually activated valve whereby one squuezes the tank or there is some other way to squuze the tank contents. Though automatic remains the ideal.
I like this idea, and will try it, Like they say in England (give it a bit of a go). LOL
Excellent, let us know if it seems to help in that way. I'd try it myself, but haven't got to the point to try a tank yet, although I have a few ready. Yeah, I'm chicken. I'm just waiting till I get a good diy juice done, that way, if I get a bad leak, I'm not losing expensive stuff, or wasting cartos.
I have not read through all 164 pages, so don't know if this has been brought up before or not. I found a thread somewhere a couple of weeks ago on the forum about another tank/carto mod that looked interesting. It's made from a 6ml juice bottle. I am not very computer savvy so don't know exactly how to put this site address in this reply, but it's on youtube search kennysmancave channel. I made one three days ago and it has worked perfectly, cost me nothing and have had perfect operation with no leaks for 3 straight days. If it has already been and gone in this thread, I apologize, but if not maybe someone who is more able can direct readers to this site. The thing that I liked was that I didn't have to go buy anything. I had several empty bottles and some new CCV Resurrectors, and the saddle valve already, so it was pretty much free for me.
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