Watch Todd's video from the start - that should help you with how it all works. Also rub VG into the o-rings on the top fill port, the deck, the two small o-rings below the tank, and the o-ring on which the tank sits:
Hussar Project X RTA Clone (by Coppervape)
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Watch Todd's video from the start - that should help you with how it all works. Also rub VG into the o-rings on the top fill port, the deck, the two small o-rings below the tank, and the o-ring on which the tank sits:
Definitely not but when you learn what you need to do it's a piece of cake. Watch Todd, back read or ask the X Men/Women
. They helped me
@fiddleshe, it's certainly one of the most different build RTA's. There's just a few simple rules to follow with it.
1 - Coil of 2.5mm ID is optimal for the X and depending upon what wire you're using upto 8 wraps (simple round wire).
2 - After combing and fluffing your wicking cut your wicking as close to the edge of the build deck and then try tucking the wicking in the wells, ideally you want to nicely fill them without stuffing them and packing the wicking down.
It takes a few attempts to get it down right, but stick at it. As it is one of those RTA's that ends up in rotation somewhere.
1 - Coil of 2.5mm ID is optimal for the X and depending upon what wire you're using upto 8 wraps (simple round wire).
2 - After combing and fluffing your wicking cut your wicking as close to the edge of the build deck and then try tucking the wicking in the wells, ideally you want to nicely fill them without stuffing them and packing the wicking down.
It takes a few attempts to get it down right, but stick at it. As it is one of those RTA's that ends up in rotation somewhere.
If it immediately leaked after filling it means you did not closed juice flow when filling or not twisted it in right position after pressing on deck. I use X for couple months and never experienced any sudden leak. With Juice Flow Closed I can take tank off deck and change coil and put new wick even when tank is full of e-juice. X is the most leak proof RTA I ever used... the only way X can leak for me is if I put too little cotton in internal "U" shaped notches...and such small leak is never sudden and happens because I use short wick method so my wicking wells are usually half empty. If you fill your wicking wells fully chances of leak are close to zero... unless you have cracked tank or worn o-ring.
@Janusz, also a dodgy bottom o ring and missing stop hex screw can cause leaking.
And always tighten the hex screw as much as you're able, as it can prevent the base and tank from properly seating and then it can leak a little.
And always tighten the hex screw as much as you're able, as it can prevent the base and tank from properly seating and then it can leak a little.
I took a plunge, having not ever used these, and bought 2 of these nifty hussars. I only vape about 1ml per day, so I just opted for the regular ol 2ml versions.
@barkfunklerbunk, hopefully 2ml will be enough for you. But you never know until it's too late and then it's too late.
But definitely pick up some extra PEI tank sections, as they're the weakest part in the design.
But definitely pick up some extra PEI tank sections, as they're the weakest part in the design.
Mine are both still 2mls - I just prefer low profile RTAs. Of all the things to be picky over, I got lumped with low profile attys and rewicking (when there's only a trace of brownness)
OK, X Men and Women. I need your help again. I can't get the deck off! Since you're excellent advice I've been having zero issues so far turning the tank for refills (save the tight top cap which needs to be pried off even after lubing it). I closed off the JF and proceeded to unscrew the deck. ETA!!! Oh geez, I forgot. The deck pulls out. Right now, the AF ring is stuck in the position where the wells are and I can't even get it back to where the AF ring is positioned over the AF holes. I made sure the top fill cap isn't tight.
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@muth, usually you have to turn the whole top part of the tank anticlockwise. Sometimes though things can get stuck due to the o ring and it not seating right on the base.
Hopefully it'll come apart with some gentle coaxing and maybe even being put in the freezer overnight and having at it with some rubber gloves.
Hopefully it'll come apart with some gentle coaxing and maybe even being put in the freezer overnight and having at it with some rubber gloves.
Oh no, not the freezer again! I remember the time I couldn't get the firing button off my copper Pegasus and relinquished it to the freezer. I ended up finding a replacement button, lol.
@muth - A time or two I've found it helpful to try to 'lean' the tank one way or the other. This helps put pressure between the bottom of the atty and the top of the mod...keeps it from unscrewing so easily. Hope that helps.
Place (screw it)your X on mod.
Close JFC.
Hold your mod in one hand and grab the whole X with other hand and pull it off the same way as you are pulling top cap. It is necessary to use as much force (or more).
Glad to know I'm not the only one who has experienced this naughty X behavior. I'm fighting to get the chimney off a base now. Thanks for the ideas, I'll try them tomorrow.
I love it when it works but I think I've had every problem noted on this thread!
Not just related to the X, I've been on a roll of messing up things lately (way too much operator error).
I love it when it works but I think I've had every problem noted on this thread!
Not just related to the X, I've been on a roll of messing up things lately (way too much operator error).
@WhiteHighlights, the bottom o ring at the base of the deck doesn't help much.
As it's not exactly the right size and also is too low a shore hardness (it's too soft), but at least you can replace o rings easily enough.
And even I have had an X mock me the same way, it happens when one tab on the top section is above the locking mechanism on the base and the other is below it. Then boom, it's jammed.
As it's not exactly the right size and also is too low a shore hardness (it's too soft), but at least you can replace o rings easily enough.
And even I have had an X mock me the same way, it happens when one tab on the top section is above the locking mechanism on the base and the other is below it. Then boom, it's jammed.
Note to self: once I get that dang thing apart -- replace the o ring! Thanks for that recommendation.
As I said, I'm on a roll lately, whatever can be messed up I do it! I locked myself out of my office
The person with the spare key wasn't in. Fortunately, our maintenance guy was able to McGyver over the wall from the adjoining office to open the door. It wasn't one of my better days
Yes that jamm happens when we place top section unevenly and make a twist to lock it. The best way to avoid such jam is to make firm pressure and small twist back and forth untill full twist is going easy. To get out of such jam instead trying to twist back we should pull it off with little wiggling... I got escaped such jam twice that way.
The first time I had jam I tried to get chimney off base but even with help of vice and other tools I was unsuccessful... I made plenty of scratches and was close to destroy X...I almost gave up... but I assembled back top section installed it on mod and... pulled it off easily the same way as pulling top cap for filling... this RTA does not like to be turned/screwed it like to be pushed in and pulled off
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