No. I am waiting for some feedback about the Vortex before purchasing them.
Hybrid Tank MOD - MAP tank & GP-SSR
- Thread starter PKZap27
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
No. I am waiting for some feedback about the Vortex before purchasing them.
If I had the right tools I would get some to mod them. Right now I'm limited to what I can make or MOD. I will keep an eye out on what MOD's come about with the Vortex. Thanks!
I see,
so now that you know that you can shove a CE2 through the end caps, are you still cutting off the tube? or have you thought about just grinding 2 slots into the tube of the CE2 and use a drip tip in it. To me this seems much cheaper for most people that don't want to pay extra for a modded CE2 to fit in the MAP tank. everyone can use a hacksaw or dremel. A pack of CE2s are 5 for 9 bucks, a single modded CE2 for a MAP tank is something like 5 dollars each.
Warning:
Don't drill it. the plug will stay inside the CE2's tube and short it out. AND don't grind to deep or you will cut the wires.
so now that you know that you can shove a CE2 through the end caps, are you still cutting off the tube? or have you thought about just grinding 2 slots into the tube of the CE2 and use a drip tip in it. To me this seems much cheaper for most people that don't want to pay extra for a modded CE2 to fit in the MAP tank. everyone can use a hacksaw or dremel. A pack of CE2s are 5 for 9 bucks, a single modded CE2 for a MAP tank is something like 5 dollars each.
Warning:
Don't drill it. the plug will stay inside the CE2's tube and short it out. AND don't grind to deep or you will cut the wires.
I see what you’re saying Gummy. Yeah, what a simple way of inserting the CE2 into the caps.
Modifying the MAP tank as explained in post #17 allows for the easy replacement of the CE2. You just unscrew it, switch the O-ring on to a new CE2 and screw it back on. You can also use clear or steel CE2's just take off the tube. No cutting or grinding every time you need to replace a CE2.
I posted some pics in post #17
Modifying the MAP tank as explained in post #17 allows for the easy replacement of the CE2. You just unscrew it, switch the O-ring on to a new CE2 and screw it back on. You can also use clear or steel CE2's just take off the tube. No cutting or grinding every time you need to replace a CE2.
I posted some pics in post #17
Last edited:
I do understand that there are advantages to removing the tube.
When the CE2 goes funky (and it will) you can torch the coil and wick to clean them with a small butane torch. But for me the CE2s are cheap enough so I just toss them when they go off. (about one per month). I'm not a clean freak and don't feel the need to boil everything out after every 3 mls of juice like some here on the forum do but the removed tube does make that easy.
I open a new one and do a dry burn on it 1st, if it smokes or smells bad I toss it. but a good one I will take to the dremel and in 10 seconds I have it slotted. a quick wash and then I just push it into the bottom cap and out the top until the threaded part is flush with the bottom cap. and then I'm good for another month. The new vortex attys should be even easier because they are plastic and you can drill a quick hole in it with no worries about the plug shorting anything out. And they look cool to. I put one in my tank 10 min.s after they arrived. but they are a larger OD then a std. CE2 so I had to change to thin wall O rings.
When the CE2 goes funky (and it will) you can torch the coil and wick to clean them with a small butane torch. But for me the CE2s are cheap enough so I just toss them when they go off. (about one per month). I'm not a clean freak and don't feel the need to boil everything out after every 3 mls of juice like some here on the forum do but the removed tube does make that easy.
I open a new one and do a dry burn on it 1st, if it smokes or smells bad I toss it. but a good one I will take to the dremel and in 10 seconds I have it slotted. a quick wash and then I just push it into the bottom cap and out the top until the threaded part is flush with the bottom cap. and then I'm good for another month. The new vortex attys should be even easier because they are plastic and you can drill a quick hole in it with no worries about the plug shorting anything out. And they look cool to. I put one in my tank 10 min.s after they arrived. but they are a larger OD then a std. CE2 so I had to change to thin wall O rings.
Last edited:
I broke a CE2 trying to get the cut CE2 out of the end cap of the MAP tank, it is also very hard to press a cut CE2 into the caps of the MAP tank. I've read many posts on users having issues from how to cut the CE2 to having problems removing & inserting the CE2 into the end caps. By pressing a 501 to 901 adapter into the MAP tank derlin cap eliminates all of these issues and this is how the GP-SSR is designed and I take no credit for this setup.
Last edited:
It does take a little work to wiggle it off, however I feel it is the best way to refill it. I feel it comes off easy enough.
I take the whole tank apart to service it when that time comes.
The adapter sure seems cool, but I didn't know that they were so hard to change the atty. I thought that they would have had an O ring in the end caps to seal around the CE2. Even a cheap drip tip has an O ring. So I sure learned something today.
I put the Hybrid tank MOD together last night and I’m still using it with no issues, no dry hits and I have less than a eighth of a tank and I've not had to mess with this setup all day. I typically swirl the tank in my hand occasionally to distribute the e-liquid and hold it almost horizontally when I take a hit. No leaks either. I really feel (as explained in post #17 on page 2) that the setup of the top portion of the any tank using a CE2 is critical to having it function without issues. I have not had any vapor backfeed into the inside of the tank with this setup either, which has happend on both the MAP tank and GP-SSR.
Last edited:
So..just curious...if you can use a 901/510 adapter pressed into the delrin cap, to make it easy to swap out ce2's..then why not use one of the avidvaper's 510 modder's connector..which is basically a shorty 510-510 adapter??
The GP-SSR is designed with the 510~901 adapter pressed into the derlin cap and uses a 901~510 adapter to change it back to a 510 connection. This 901~510 adapter that is used to change it back to a 510 connection is the key part that provides air flow through the adapters and it also allows you to adjust the air flow. The 510~510 Modder’s connector does not allow you to adjust the air flow like the standard 901~510 adapter.
Remember, you would have to form a leak proof seal between the CE2 and the adapter with the O-ring and doing so with the 510~510 Modder’s connector would not allow for any air flow and it would not work.
Last edited:
Cough Cough, not without modifications....
Like all 510 connectors there are air holes in the neck above the threads that this connector/extension does not appear to have. A simple .5mm drill can solve this problem. That is why I have 4ft of 7/8"OD delrin, and 8ft of 3/4"ID x 7/8"OD Polycarbonate coming. I just have to warm up the metal lathe.
And yes I will be pressing in the 510 extenders from madvapes after they are modified; I like a flush mod, not one that stands off my PV. So never say can't teehee.... always say well it might be possible, but youll have to overcome _______
Not flaming just trying to provide a possible way to use them.
Hope I didnt step on toes, I think a 510 to 510 is way better than having to use adapters to convert it back from a 901 to a 510.
Just my 2 cents,
Dan
Dan,
I'm picking up what you’re throwing down here.
Drilling the two holes in the threaded part of 510~510 adapter as you explained above should establish the needed air flow through the tank. Great idea Dan, I never thought to do that.
I'll try again.
I believe that even after drilling the two holes in the neck of the threaded part of 510~510 adapter that you would still not be able to adjust the airflow unless you modified the adapter to do so.
Again, the use of the 510~901 and 901~510 adapters allows for an airflow adjustment which eliminates the airy draw that the MAP tank has.
The 901~510 adapter has two pieces inside of it that are screwed together. On the 901 side of the adapter there is a slot in the center section that can be turned to adjust the airflow. The 510~510 adapter has the same slot that can be turned, however I believe it is a single piece and it simply just turns and turns and it has no effect on the adjustment of the airflow.
When I first used the MAP tank my first thought was WOW! This MAP tank has an airy draw. I thought that I would be back to dripping for sure, However after finding the GP-SSR this issue has been eliminated.
From what I've read it appears to me that most people like having the tank as close to the PV as possible. I'll take having the ability to adjust the air flow over having the tank sitting a 1/4" closer to my PV. Do I prefer it closer? The answer is yes I do, just not at the cost of sacrificing the ability to adjust the air flow.
I'm sure that after modifying the 510~510 adapter that it will work in this application. Can it be used in this application and still allow for an airflow adjustment? Sure anything is possible. I just haven’t figured out how to do this using the above mentioned 510~510 adapter.
BTW I don't feel that you were flaming of toe steppin, I welcome any and all comments, good or bad. It is what makes us grow.
Dan, thank you for your feedback and for your solution which allows an option to keep this tank set-up at a 510 connection that I'm sure many users would like to have.
TTYL
PK
Last edited:
Your welcome throbinskin.
I hope you get to try it out.
It has worked out great for me.
I own two MAP tanks and converted the second one over last night.
Thank you!
PK
Just to clarify the tank tube length discussed in post #17 on page 2, after getting the second MAP tank together, the tank tube that is 1-5/8 inches long worked out better than the shorter tank tube that was 1-9/16 inched long.
PK
PK
IMHO,
Now that I figured out that pressing the adapter into the MAP tank derlin cap has worked I prefer to just use the MAP tank parts because both the top and bottom derlin cap pieces match.
I converted both of my MAP tanks and I'm glad that I did and I have no regrets.
I like the look of MAP tank derlin pieces over the look of the derlin caps on the GP-SSR. (personal opinion)
At this time I'm not using the GP-SSR or any of the GP-SSR pieces; however I'm keeping them for backups. The GP-SSR works!
If someone asked me "which tank should I buy", I would recommend the GP-SSR over the MAP tank.
If I knew ahead of time that they will be performing this MOD, I would suggest the MAP tank.
The straight up winner between these two tanks IMHO without modification is the GP-SSR from Good Prophets.
I hope this helps.
PK
Now that I figured out that pressing the adapter into the MAP tank derlin cap has worked I prefer to just use the MAP tank parts because both the top and bottom derlin cap pieces match.
I converted both of my MAP tanks and I'm glad that I did and I have no regrets.
I like the look of MAP tank derlin pieces over the look of the derlin caps on the GP-SSR. (personal opinion)
At this time I'm not using the GP-SSR or any of the GP-SSR pieces; however I'm keeping them for backups. The GP-SSR works!
If someone asked me "which tank should I buy", I would recommend the GP-SSR over the MAP tank.
If I knew ahead of time that they will be performing this MOD, I would suggest the MAP tank.
The straight up winner between these two tanks IMHO without modification is the GP-SSR from Good Prophets.
I hope this helps.
PK
- Status
Similar threads
