Hybrid Tank MOD - MAP tank & GP-SSR

[wolflrv]

Cough Cough, not without modifications....
Like all 510 connectors there are air holes in the neck above the threads that this connector/extension does not appear to have. A simple .5mm drill can solve this problem. That is why I have 4ft of 7/8"OD delrin, and 8ft of 3/4"ID x 7/8"OD Polycarbonate coming. I just have to warm up the metal lathe. And yes I will be pressing in the 510 extenders from madvapes after they are modified; I like a flush mod, not one that stands off my PV.

So never say can't teehee.... always say well it might be possible, but you’ll have to overcome _______

Not flaming just trying to provide a possible way to use them.
Hope I didn’t step on toes, I think a 510 to 510 is way better than having to use adapters to convert it back from a 901 to a 510.

Just my 2 cents,
Dan

Dan...you were thinking what I was...no offense PKZ...but I still can't figure out the airflow. If I sand down the vent holes on the 510-510 modder's connector and then use pin vise to drill through the outside for vents, is that enough or do I have to penetrate all the way through the inner grommet and the center post area?? I tried an experiment with taping off the airflow first and got no air..so I do know that it will definitely take tapping vent holes in the bottom of the connector. Just don't want to do too much and have it start leaking either.

 

[PKZap27]

...no offense PKZ...

No offense taken.

If you have a 901~510 adapter, take the inner section apart by unscrewing it. and then compare it to the 510~510 modders connector. Also, I believe that you can push the inner part of the 510~510 modders connector out to look at it and press it back in. I removed and replaced the internal section of a 510~901 adapter by just pressing it out and then back in, however it was a little tricky getting it back in. give it a try on the 510~510 modders connector if your willing to risk possibly ruining it.

PK

 

[PKZap27]

I was able to remove & replace the center section of the 510~510 modders connector with out ruining it.

Now I'm wondering if I could be modified to allow for air flow adjustment.

I'll check it out and post back if I figure it out.

PK

Edit to add;

You would have to incorporate the two piece design of the 901~510 adapter into the 510 modders connection to be able to adjust the air flow. The 510 modders connection is too short for the internals of the 901~510 adapter and I don't believe it can be done with what I have available. A slightly longer 510~510 modders connector would be required.

 

[PKZap27]

--snipped--

I think if you take out the ceneter section and drill the holes near the neck of the threaded end of the 510~510 modders connector then put it back together, it should allow air to flow through it.

The holes would have to be really close to the threads or even just into the top part of the threads so that they are beyond the internal section and rubber seal and still allow air flow when screwed into the battery.

PK

 

[PKZap27]

I found that when replacing the center section of the adapters; that it is easier if you remove the rubber seals from the inner section parts and place them into the outer piece and then press the inner part into the outer piece. Make sure you note the orientation of the parts so you can re-assemble them the same way.

PK

 

[PKZap27]

Dan...you were thinking what I was...no offense PKZ...but I still can't figure out the airflow. If I sand down the vent holes on the 510-510 modder's connector and then use pin vise to drill through the outside for vents, is that enough or do I have to penetrate all the way through the inner grommet and the center post area?? I tried an experiment with taping off the airflow first and got no air..so I do know that it will definitely take tapping vent holes in the bottom of the connector. Just don't want to do too much and have it start leaking either.

I don't believe that you would have to drill into the center piece, as I believe this is not done on other adapters that have the 2 holes drilled into the neck area.

The center section moves back and forth inside the connector so it would be best to screw the connector on a battery when testing the air flow in lieu of taping it and testing. It's possible that the center section was shifted over enough to block the holes that you drilled when you tested it with tape on it.

BTW I'm waiting on Dan's input about this as well.

PK

 

[Jeffakaslinger]

very nice mod!

 

[PKZap27]

very nice mod!

Thank you!

 

[PKZap27]

Interesting find, I have two 510~510 modders connectors and I grabbed the other one by accident to drill my holes into it and the inside rubber seal is different from the first one that I took apart.

With the first one, the rubber seal inside is one piece. The second one has a two piece rubber seal inside. Either the two of these are designed differently or the rubber seal split apart in the second one. After looking at the two piece seal under a magnifying glass it appears that it is two pieces and that it didn’t split apart.

I did purchase the two adapters from two different vendors.

PK

 

[PKZap27]

It looks like you have to have a slot in the end of the inner part on the side that has the vent hole in order to get the air flow through the adapter. With that being said you would have to file a slot into the small center piece of the adapter on the side with the two drilled vent holes to get air flow through the adapter. Look at the end of an adapter that has the two holes drilled into the neck and you will see the slot in the end of the center piece, This slot is what allow air to flow from the drilled holes in through the adapter.

Another option would be to grind or file down the edge of the inner part on each side at a 45 degree angle enough to allow air to pass through on each side and still leaving the center top flat and wide enough to enable a connection to the battery, or maybe just file or grinding down one side (about half way in) of the adapter center piece to allow for air flow.

Another option would be what wolflrv suggested and that would be to drill a hole through the center piece, however you would have to make sure the hole is in an area that the inner seal won't cover up the hole and that the seal won't shift to cover up the hole.

PK

 

[PKZap27]

Another issue I foresee with trying to use the 510~510 Modder’s connection is that it is shorter than the 901~510 adapter. Once the 510~510 Modder’s connection is pressed into the bottom MAP tank delrin cap and it is even with bottom, I believe that you will not be able to screw the CE2 in all the way far enough to seal it or make a connection. However, you could file down the inside end of the MAP tank delrin cap to overcome this. Keep in mind that you would need to keep enough of the end cap in place to support the O-Ring in the end cap and maintain a seal.

When using the 901~ 510 adapters I use needle nose pliers and grab the CE2 by the knurled part to tighten it enough to make a connection and a good seal. I don’t think I could tighten it enough by hand without damaging the CE2. I feel that using the needle nose pliers are a requirement for tightening of the CE2 in this application. You could file down the inside end of the MAP tank delrin cap enough to leave the knurled part of the CE2 exposed to be able the grab it with a pair of needle nose pliers to tighten it. Furthermore I am not sure if in doing so would leave enough of the delrin end cap to support the O-Ring and maintain a seal as I have not measured it or tried this.

A possible solution would be to enlarge the hole in the inside end of the MAP tank delrin cap large & deep enough to allow for the CE2 to be tighten with needle nose pliers while still maintain a good O-Ring seal.

PK

 

[PKZap27]

At this point I feel that using the 510~510 Modder’s connection in the MAP tank delrin cap is a dead issue. I also feel that it can’t be done with just using the 510~510 Modder’s connection and the MAP tank delrin cap. OK, I know it can be done, however it's more modifying than what I’m willing to try for what it is worth.

Feel free to post in this thread any solutions to using the 510~510 Modder’s connection and the MAP tank delrin cap in this application.

Feel free to post in this thread any solutions to using something like a modified 510 battery extender to work, or even some other solution that will allow for the MAP tank in this application to have 510 connections that would fit flush on a PV.

PK

 

[Scubabatdan]

Well I just got my 4' stock of delrin in yesterday and my 8' poly tubing in. I was actually going to make my own delrin caps to fit the the poly tubing, so the 510 extender would have a delrin cap made for it. This way it is all machined to fit the 510 extender. Not sure if I want it pressed in or machine in o-ring slots so it is removable. Hmmm will give you an update when I get one finished.
Dan

 

[cos]

Well I just got my 4' stock of delrin in yesterday and my 8' poly tubing in. I was actually going to make my own delrin caps to fit the the poly tubing, so the 510 extender would have a delrin cap made for it. This way it is all machined to fit the 510 extender. Not sure if I want it pressed in or machine in o-ring slots so it is removable. Hmmm will give you an update when I get one finished.
Dan

Dan I guess your making a lot so you can sell a few delrin caps and tubes to us. you really are a great person to do this for us.
ok Dan i am just kidding. Would you mind posting the links where you got the delrin and tubes? Thanks Dan for everything you do for us vapers. you are the man.

 

[PKZap27]

Tubing available from

McMaster-Carr

Item number > 8585K13

Polycarbonate Round Tube, 3/4" OD, 5/8" ID, Clear

Sold in 1' increments up to 8'

$1.73 per Ft. + Shipping

McMaster-Carr also sells the delrin rod stock.

Delrin, Round, Black, 7/8" OD Part # 8576K19

cos, you can get the size tubing that Dan is using from the same place.

Polycarbonate Round Tube 5/8" ID x 7/8" OD Part # 8585K13

Dan, what vendor are you using for these items?

 

[cos]

At this point I feel that using the 510~510 Modder’s connection in the MAP tank durlin cap is a dead issue. I also feel that it can’t be done with just using the 510~510 Modder’s connection and the MAP tank durlin cap. OK, I know it can be done, however it's more modifying than what I’m willing to try for what it is worth.

Feel free to post in this thread any solutions to using the 510~510 Modder’s connection and the MAP tank durlin cap in this application.

Feel free to post in this thread any solutions to using something like a modified 510 battery extender to work, or even some other solution that will allow for the MAP tank in this application to have 510 connections that would fit flush on a PV.

PK

PKZap
Your right it can be done but someone will come up with an easier solution. You came too far with this so dont give up hope yet. Wait a while til some of these veteran modders get out of bed, then you will have loads of new ideas on this issue.

 

[PKZap27]

--snipped--

Thank you cos, I have not given up hope yet.

A 510 connection solution for this setup will be awesome.

I just hope it is simple enough that most users are able to do it, or that someone makes the finished parts available for other users.

 

[PKZap27]

That is why I have 4ft of 7/8"OD delrin, and 8ft of 3/4"ID x 7/8"OD Polycarbonate coming.

Dan are planning on making your tank larger? The MAP tank tube size is 5/8" ID x 3/4" OD which is different from what you posted above.

I was actually going to make my own delrin caps to fit the the poly tubing

Never mind I just re-read you post.

 

[wolflrv]

PKZ...your brainstorming the 510 connector is pretty much the same as what I've thought through so far. I'm still trying to work through what it would take to build a custom insert for mine. I've also got plenty of delrin and polycarb lying about i'm thinking seriously about creating a threaded post insert similar to how Imeo does his AFS stuff. Would require an inner and outer brass tube and delrin center all threaded and probably o-ring sealed somehow. I'm also planning to tap and thread my own delrin/poly tank so I don't have to tear up my hands trying to pry it apart. I want a final tank that can be completely threaded for cleaning, inserting, etc. I have a dream..anyway...LOL!

 

[cos]

PKZap thank you very much for the links.