Ideas for iAtty

[Poppa D]

Would giving the wick gap a open sided tube shape work?
So the wick could be pressed through a narrowed space in to the slightly larger wick tube.

 

[Zoranth]

You mean like a key Hole design?

Would giving the wick gap a open sided tube shape work?
So the wick could be pressed through a narrowed space in to the slightly larger wick tube.

 

[Poppa D]

You mean like a key Hole design?

use your pointed dremel bit from the top down. This makes the squared gap a round tube shape on the inside with out making the gap at the threads any larger. Allowing the wick to be "popped" into the larger tube through the original gap, holding the wick in place and giving it more space.

The cone can be taken off and put back on with out cutting up the ceramic xc-116. It works well for dry burns, or whatever reason the cone needs to be removed.

 

[Repent]

Imeo I will second Please Please Please Please Please make more UFS very soon!!!

I also like the idea of ceramic coated metal for the top piece. Wires won't burn into plastic and then we can still do dry burns.

 

[Zoranth]

Here is another thought for electrical connections in the iAtty.

 

[clavit]

Good idea Zor. I have been thinking along the same lines.
How would you go about connecting the wire? wraps? threads and a very small bolt? solder?
Also, i have been thinking about cutting extra slots in the upper plastic so that the wick and NR-wire run in seperate slots. It should make it easier to use SSmesh as wicking because the risk of shorts will be smaller.

 

[fright88]

That is great Zor.

 

[Zoranth]

Was thinking of putting the NR wire through the hole then wrapping it around itself a couple times to secure the connection. Extra slots in the upper plastic would be hard to do without having fluid leaking past connectors.

 

[imeothanasis]

Zor, I was thinking about your very nice designs but my major problem is that I cant make those parts on a cnc machine. But lets talk a little more about your ideas:

I am afraid that we will have much liquid coming via the space between the slots of the upper plastic and your metal piece that goes along it. We can maybe avoid this by making your metal pieces very thin so they can bend a little and be tight on the plastics slots. But your metal ring under the upper plastic needs to be a tight fit with the Iatty center post. How will we screw the plastic on the center post as we usual do (with your metal ring between them) and at the same time the metal that is going along the slots will fit? If we just push the upper's plastic neck inside the metal center post of the Iatty with o-rings it will not be a tight fit.

 

[Zoranth]

Imeo, The two parts could be made from 28 ga (0.0187"), 30 ga (0.0125") or 32 ga (0.0102") Stainless Steel Sheet Metal or nickel plated brass. These metal rings actually fit between the metal and the plastic and are held in place the same way the NR wire is now. Take the upper connector and place it in between the upper plastic and the center post (making sure that the tab is in one of the slots in the upper plastic) and screw them together. Now screw that onto the lower plastic part, making sure it is tight. Now, take he lower connector and place it on the underside of the lower plastic part making sure that the tab is aligned in the slots of both plastic pieces directly opposite the upper connector. Screw all of this onto the Atty base tightly.

There should not be anymore of a risk of leaks as there is now using a wire in the same places Only thing now is you do not have to keep taking the whole thing apart every time you change coils thus reducing the risk of cross threading or stripping out the threads.

These connectors could either be stamped, laser cut, plasma cut or water jet cut out a piece of sheet metal. Lol, or hand made for R&D purposes. If you want a copy of the Flat pattern for each piece I will send it to you.

I had a late night at work and have a coupe things I need to get doe before I grab a shower and head to bed. I will create a couple more illustrations tomorrow which should clarify it or you.

-Zor

 

[imeothanasis]

You are right about this Zor. The connections are ok, I agree. But we still have 2 issues. How we will tight the wires around those metals pieces? And I still cant make the rings and the metals inside slots

 

[Rick.45cal]

You are right about this Zor. The connections are ok, I agree. But we still have 2 issues. How we will tight the wires around those metals pieces? And I still cant make the rings and the metals inside slots

If you make the tops with two notches like a two sided F then you wrap the wires around. You need someone with a laser cnc to cut it out of thin flat stock and then have the stem bent up. A simple jig would work for that. Might not be financially feasible to cut the parts though.

 

[Zoranth]

Imeo,

Here are some more Illustrations hat I hope clarify things for you. I will be looking into finding someplace that will do a short run of these (after I make a set by hand and test it out ofc) using either Laser cut or Water Jet cutting.

 

[fright88]

Zor if you build them they will buy or I will anyways

 

[Poppa D]

Zor,
Will the bottom ring set in the bottom slots and the top slots or does it pass over the bottom slots? With this design is the NR wire needed or just really very short?
I don't know if its needed or if it could be incorporated into your design, but would a wire "hook" shaped like a "K" that the wire could be wrapped around make things handy?

One last thing, how will this effect the ohms of coil?

 

[Zoranth]

Will the bottom ring set in the bottom slots and the top slots or does it pass over the bottom slots?

The lower ring goes through both sets of slots. The second and third picture in this post http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/gg/211239-ideas-iatty-2.html#post3903320 shows it clearly.

With this design is the NR wire needed or just really very short?

I have been trying to come up with a way to eliminate the NR wire but as of yet, I do not see it happening reliably.

I don't know if its needed or if it could be incorporated into your design, but would a wire "hook" shaped like a "K" that the wire could be wrapped around make things handy?

The material that would be used is very thin. 0.0102"-0.0187". I would think that having a "K" shape to wrap the wires around may be a bit flimsy. It is worth considering though.

One last thing, how will this effect the ohms of coil?

If the rings were made from Brass and bent to shape then Nickel plated ,I do not think it would have much effect on the over resistance of he device.

 

[wigglr]

You're a genius, Zor. Seriously.

 

[Poppa D]

The lower ring goes through both sets of slots. The second and third picture in this post http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/gg/211239-ideas-iatty-2.html#post3903320 shows it clearly.

I have been trying to come up with a way to eliminate the NR wire but as of yet, I do not see it happening reliably.

The top and bottom can be turned independently at the present moment, the ring w/extensions passing through both upper and lower slots would create a problem if they needed to be snugged up, they would be connected by the 2 slots and 1 extension. Passing over the lower slots would eliminate the "lock effect" of passing through both upper and lower slots. Passing over would also alleviate the need for the two slots having to line up correctly.

The "K" could be cut into one or both sides in the edges, even one downward 45 degree cut would allow the wire to pass through the hole through the cut and back to the hole. Just a thought.

 

[fright88]

The top and bottom can be turned independently at the present moment, the ring w/extensions passing through both upper and lower slots would create a problem if they needed to be snugged up, they would be connected by the 2 slots and 1 extension. Passing over the lower slots would eliminate the "lock effect" of passing through both upper and lower slots. Passing over would also alleviate the need for the two slots having to line up correctly.

True but if it was snugged up before you put the bottom piece on and the channels line up once the bottom piece was on it would lock the top preventing it loosening up.

 

[Poppa D]

Another idea for the iatty.

The cone neck that extends up seems a little short. When I unscrew the top, the cone often comes with it. And getting the Oring back on it is a bit of a PITA.

If it were a little longer it would be easier to adjust, and instal the Oring.