Hi Poppa Imeo took the mouthpiece off before taking the top off, this takes the pressure of the O Ring so the cone doesnt unscrew, works for me except when I forget 
Ideas for iAtty
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I do the same, except when I forget. Getting that O ring back on is another thing, especially while I'm driving. If it were long enough to get a grip on it by removing the mouth piece it would make things kind of handy, for adjusting it, replacing the O ring, monitoring the cone when removing the cap.
Hi Poppa Imeo took the mouthpiece off before taking the top off, this takes the pressure of the O Ring so the cone doesnt unscrew, works for me except when I forget
Here is a very crude prototype of my Connectors. Believe it or not, I made them out of the metal of a Pepsi-Cola can. Take into consideration that the metal I used is thinner than I would like and is Aluminum instead of either SS or Nickel plated brass.
The tie off of the Wires is very rough as by the time I got to this point, my Carpal Tunnel was in full force and I couldn't feel anything with my fingers. Also please excuse the dirty appearance of the components, I had all of them rolling around my desk before I put it together to check everything. Once my hands calmed back down, I did a proper cleaning and reassembled it. Vapes very well and no issues yet.
This did not add any resistance to the assembly and so far not one sign of any leaks!!
The tie off of the Wires is very rough as by the time I got to this point, my Carpal Tunnel was in full force and I couldn't feel anything with my fingers. Also please excuse the dirty appearance of the components, I had all of them rolling around my desk before I put it together to check everything. Once my hands calmed back down, I did a proper cleaning and reassembled it. Vapes very well and no issues yet.
This did not add any resistance to the assembly and so far not one sign of any leaks!!
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Actually, in the original design. If you have it completely assembled with the coil on, You cannot turn both plastic pieces independently of each other or you will break a wire. You have to loosen the bottom plastic (Including everything else along with it) and unwrap the wire before you loosen the upper plastic.
Here is a very crude prototype of my Connectors. Believe it or not, I made them out of the metal of a Pepsi-Cola can. Take into consideration that the metal I used is thinner than I would like and is Aluminum instead of either SS or Nickel plated brass.
The tie off of the Wires is very rough as by the time I got to this point, my Carpal Tunnel was in full force and I couldn't feel anything with my fingers. Also please excuse the dirty appearance of the components, I had all of them rolling around my desk before I put it together to check everything. Once my hands calmed back down, I did a proper cleaning and reassembled it. Vapes very well and no issues yet.
This did not add any resistance to the assembly and so far not one sign of any leaks!!
Sweet looks good please keep us updated on leaks ect.
This is why I suggested the idea of cutting an "X" in the top of the cone. all you have to do is loosen the mouthpiece a little, then take a small phillips screwdriver and adjust the cone through the mouthpiece
hello , would like to add a suggestion to Zoranth idea on the res connector
i think its easyier to tie the wire with this
i think its easyier to tie the wire with this
Once I get some real metal stock I will try yours and Poppa's ideas, His was a "K" style hook at the top to wrap the NR around. Lol, right now all I have is a Pepsi can 
hello , would like to add a suggestion to Zoranth idea on the res connector
i think its easyier to tie the wire with this
That is very similar to what I was thinking, minus the teeth. If you make it like that, you don't have to tie anything, the wire is wrapped around several times, Extra wire can be used, the wick can be removed for cleaning, you can remove the coil, and then reuse it, since there is ample NR wire. (I'm not entirely cheap) but it would make reusing coils much easier. I currently have little to no problems reusing a coil, but I have a process to ensure that there is just enough wire to work again. This would simplify the process considerably.
I don't think leaking is going to be an issue, if anything I think it will help prevent leaks as once the parts are assembled, there is not really a reason to disassemble the iAtty. Less wear on threads less chance of someone cross threading the plastic pieces etc.
Very nice job on the parts Zor! Looks pretty slick to me!
what is the diameter of the screw holes to fit the plastic?
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-mods-picture50820-prototype-connectors-4.jpg
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-mods-picture50820-prototype-connectors-4.jpg
what type of material you can use to do this?
it can be for example a needle spicked in the plastic or the position of the pieces are important?
yes i know lamme question,
but i'm looking for an alternative that will last forever of non resistive wire. it's a pin in the a...s the get the wire correctly in place for me.
it can be for example a needle spicked in the plastic or the position of the pieces are important?
yes i know lamme question,
but i'm looking for an alternative that will last forever of non resistive wire. it's a pin in the a...s the get the wire correctly in place for me.
these illustrations are awesome. i wish i had your skills. what line of work are you in Zor?
Imeo,
Here are some more Illustrations hat I hope clarify things for you. I will be looking into finding someplace that will do a short run of these (after I make a set by hand and test it out ofc) using either Laser cut or Water Jet cutting.
Zor's designs make feel that I have to buy an Iatty! Zor, you are the master of 3D designs. Maybe the best on ecf. I am glad you are one of the best GG friends!!!
In a previous life, I was a mechanical engineer/prototype design for the food industry (Baking). Ovens, Proofers, Dough Dividers... etc. things like that. Now I drive trucks for a living
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Thank you Imeo, just glad I can give back to a community (Family) that does so much for everyone else.
Lets wait to see what Lorderos comes up with first. He i also working on an idea of his to make it so you do not have to use NR wire
what type of material you can use to do this?
it can be for example a needle spicked in the plastic or the position of the pieces are important?
yes i know lamme question,
but i'm looking for an alternative that will last forever of non resistive wire. it's a pin in the a...s the get the wire correctly in place for me.
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I just saw this and it is almost exactly what I am thinking of, except that I was going to drill small holes through the plastic parts and insert small gauge needles through them. There would only be holes in the top p,astic, the bottom plastic would not need any holes made. The design Zor is showing here is much more user friendly and easier to manufacture. The only really big difference with my idea is that I would have the pins almost touching the ceramic and the wire secured with a spring loaded pin ( initially just a pin ferrule till I could make the spring loaded parts small enough to fit nicely) so that the amount of kanthal or nichrome that would be in open air (not touching the wick) would be small enough to not build up heat from running dry.
Very nice job Zor, I wish I could do the 3D drawings you do, I would have been able to show what I was doing this way instead of waiting for parts
I got my parts in for COV. I will start modding it tonight. Hopefully it works out nicely. If all goes well I should have some pics up in the next couple of days showing my idea for the improvement.
Now I need to find some washers so I can attach the pins to them. Maybe my "gummy lathe" will come in handy to fab those (a dremel and an electric drill).
Now I need to find some washers so I can attach the pins to them. Maybe my "gummy lathe" will come in handy to fab those (a dremel and an electric drill).
You could always give me a detailed explanation of what your trying to do in a PM and I can draw up a sample. Then you could mark it up with changes etc until we get it right on paper before you touch a part.
Use a bit of caution if your gonna use small gage needles as they may tend to conduct a bit of the heat down to the plastic if there is not any wick next to them to help keep them cool
I can do all the interference and fitment checks here as well. Always more than willing to help out the GG family with things like this
Use a bit of caution if your gonna use small gage needles as they may tend to conduct a bit of the heat down to the plastic if there is not any wick next to them to help keep them cool
I can do all the interference and fitment checks here as well. Always more than willing to help out the GG family with things like this
I just saw this and it is almost exactly what I am thinking of, except that I was going to drill small holes through the plastic parts and insert small gauge needles through them. There would only be holes in the top p,astic, the bottom plastic would not need any holes made. The design Zor is showing here is much more user friendly and easier to manufacture. The only really big difference with my idea is that I would have the pins almost touching the ceramic and the wire secured with a spring loaded pin ( initially just a pin ferrule till I could make the spring loaded parts small enough to fit nicely) so that the amount of kanthal or nichrome that would be in open air (not touching the wick) would be small enough to not build up heat from running dry.
Very nice job Zor, I wish I could do the 3D drawings you do, I would have been able to show what I was doing this way instead of waiting for parts
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