Immortalizer clone from FT

[vapero]

today I decide to open up the airhole on the sleeve.... midway drilling something went terribly wrong and the drill bit ended up going trough my finger just next to my nail!!!, blood everywhere!! but I couldn't stop there, I used the 5 millimeter left of the drill bit (that wasn't on my finger to finish the job!
now I can take my mind off the pain by enjoying an amazing vape from the Immortalizer!!

 

[spaceman84]

Anyone compared this to the hcigar immortalizer clone? The drip tip is different but beyond that I can't tell from images alone.

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[JD1]

today I decide to open up the airhole on the sleeve.... midway drilling something went terribly wrong and the drill bit ended up going trough my finger just next to my nail!!!, blood everywhere!! but I couldn't stop there, I used the 5 millimeter left of the drill bit (that wasn't on my finger to finish the job!
now I can take my mind off the pain by enjoying an amazing vape from the Immortalizer!!

I liked your post because of the amazing vape part and NOT the blood everywhere part. Here's hoping you heal up good and quick.

My immortalizer wound up having stripped threads so I've got a ticket open to send it back.

 

[turbocad6]

ha, I hate drilling through my fingers too, that sucks

so does it now draw ~the same as it does with the ring off?

 

[vapero]

ha, I hate drilling through my fingers too, that sucks

so does it now draw ~the same as it does with the ring off?

I't is a little bit into the tight side, a bit more that without the sleeve but still really good.. I'm used to 1/16 draws from my RDAs but it is a really nice change of pace, have been using it almost exclusively for the weekend

 

[t8kiteasy]

The Immortalizer is meant to have a tight draw.It produces excellent flavor and vapor because of the design.If you want an open draw with it,unscrew the sleeve about one full turn and tighten down the top cap.That will give you about the draw of the KFL.You could also get the same draw if you leave the outer sleeve off.I am not sure how well the clone is because I have the real Immortalizer,and the vape is outstanding.
Using an open draw on the Immo you will not get the flavor that it truely offers.

 

[vapero]

The Immortalizer is meant to have a tight draw.It produces excellent flavor and vapor because of the design.If you want an open draw with it,unscrew the sleeve about one full turn and tighten down the top cap.That will give you about the draw of the KFL.You could also get the same draw if you leave the outer sleeve off.I am not sure how well the clone is because I have the real Immortalizer,and the vape is outstanding.
Using an open draw on the Immo you will not get the flavor that it truely offers.

well... too late for that now...
(remember that I had a drill bit trough my finger halfway trough the drilling)

 

[Gummy Bare]

I have a real immo, so I'm not to sure about the FT one.... but a buddy of mine has one and it seems to have the same tight air draw from it. His post screws stripped on him super quick though. The quality of the clone isn't near what the real one is.

Anyway, drilling more or bigger holes on the sleeve won't really give more air flow on the immo at all. The sleeve has a certain thickness to it which makes the air chamber inside real small... that's one of the main things restricting it. I found a guy that makes after market sleeves that have thinner walls on them, plus bigger air holes. This opens up the inside chamber and also gives more initial air flow entry. I picked one up and the things vapes much much better. He makes them in brass as well.... which is killer.

Here's what it looks like.

:: sent from android with tapatalk ::

 

[JD1]

............ He makes them in brass as well.... which is killer..............

Me likey. That's a great looking rig Gummy Bare.

 

[vapero]

it's time for my 5 day review!
I set it up at .8ohms with a 28 round kanthal microcoils and cotton. one wick is touching the ceramic while the other touches the ceramich and then goes back up over the coil and screws. drilled the outer sleeve.

the flavor is amazing! the TH is really great! and vapor is ok.
I do get some gurgling wen I drip but I just tilt the mod and do a hard pull to get the liquid out of the airflow and into the wick, this helps but if I leave it standing for a while sometimes the liquid tends to go back into the airflow (easy fixed by a quick hard pull again)
but after seeing my wicks after 4 days, the liquid is still clear and the wicks look like new, I just took this image of the 4 old wick.
the taste keeps clean and I don't need to rewick as often as my RDA's this is a big plus.

this thing is heavy and feels really solid! I'm thinking of getting a new one and try to do the drilling on the top, where it makes contact with the top cap making it a U instead of a hole

 

[spaceman84]

Anyone had any trouble with the sleeve being stuck or have advice to get it unstuck? I don't know if mine was just tightened down too much or if it's bound up due to electrolysis from the aluminum and stainless steel interacting. Won't be able to replace the stock coil until I can get the sleeve free.

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[savagemann]

Anyone had any trouble with the sleeve being stuck or have advice to get it unstuck? I don't know if mine was just tightened down too much or if it's bound up due to electrolysis from the aluminum and stainless steel interacting. Won't be able to replace the stock coil until I can get the sleeve free.

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Are you turning it the correct direction?
The outer sleeve IS reverse threaded.
Just making sure.

 

[spaceman84]

I'll double check when I get home, but I'm fairly certain I tried both directions.

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[savagemann]

Here's what I would do.
Screw the atty onto a mod that has an adjustable center pin.
Back the 510 pin off so the atty base it hitting flush with the body of the mod. You dont wanna crank down on the atty and put this kind of pressure on the 510 pin.
Warm it up with a hairdryer on high for a bit.
Turn it upside down and touch an ice cube to the sleeve.
Twist it clockwise and it should come right off.

 

[spaceman84]

I had given some thought to using a soldering iron on one side to heat the steel base to try to break it free. Now I have a couple of strategies to try.

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[vapero]

I haven't recoiled this beast since my first coil a week and a half as I've read that the screws could wear out easily so I'm sticking to it for now, but I did rewicked it with what I call the bunny wick!
on one side I left a bit of cotton that touches the ceramic and loops a bit

on the other side I made the wick to touch the ceramic as well but divided the long tail into two upwards

then I placed them over the screws leaving the coil mostly exposed

 

[dr g]

Unscrewing the sleeve can be a bear, I put a thinner O-ring on it to make it easier. Still doesn't leak.

 

[turbocad6]

funny story, when I first recieved my immortalizer from a dude in the classies I didn't know that the outer sleeve had reverse threads and it was on there pretty tight. I was anxious to open it so I tried and tried but it wouldn't budge so I wrapped a piece of tape around it and gently used a pair of pliers to grip it, only then did I realize it was LH threaded but in doing so I made a little mark in the base and what did I see at this mark? brass... ...??? so I then scratched away a little more and saw chrome plating coming off and brass underneath. at that point I was convinced that I had been sold a clone because I know the original immortalizer should be stainless steel construction so I pm'd the seller and told him I was ...... off that he sold me a clone.

the seller was a really good seller here and he seemed genuinely concerned but he assured me that this atty came right from the source and one of the earlier ones, before clones even existed of this atty and he doesn't think it's a clone... at that point I was pretty baffled but I decided since I now marked it all up I will just remove all the chrome on the outside to make a brass looking immortalizer so I chucked it up in my lathe and started shaving only to discover that underneath the chrome plating and the brass plating was actually stainless steel! I've never really seen a stainless steel mod part to be chrome plated so this really surprised me and I def learned something from that experience

can anyone tell if the clone is a raw stainless finish or is it chrome plated? if I saw chrome plated from china in a cheap clone I would never think that it's really stainless steel under there but the real immortalizer is actually chrome plated ss... and on top of that the aluminum center part is actually coated with a paint type finish too... so now my immortalizer in not chrome plated and painted, it's raw stainless and aluminum except for inside the groves all around which still have chrome and paint in the groves because I didn't cut into the grooves yet... very weird for high end materials like this to be plated and painted


heres a pic of the marks I made making me think it must be a clone



here's a picture as I was cutting the finish off. the face is already cut, you can see the raw stainless and raw aluminum now and I just started first pass on the top of the cap

 

[rumpnuts]

Received mine from FT couple weeks ago, same negitive screw stripping issue. Was stripped right out of the box. Guess its to the shop with it, I'm not dealing with a return and 2 month wate

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[JD1]

One of the ways posted to get it going is to fold a piece of kanthal in a sort of u shape, put it in the hole and tighten the screw into the wire. I didn't try that because I figured I'd just break the ceramic or something.

I finally got a refund on mine and ordered a fatty v3 instead. It did take awhile and I just got it completed today, so it'll still be awhile before I have the v3.