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So I double checked what I earlier posted on the size of the second from the bottom o-ring, the one the inner sleeve seal against, I stand by what I listed as the correct size and that is 12mm id, 1mm thickness, 14mm od.
Fasttech sku 1205300 looks right for the very bottom one though. 15 mm id, 1.5 mm thickness, 18mm od
When I screw on just the inner sleeve I can fell the drag as it contacting the o-ring
I never thought to check back to what you'd posted to compare. Yeal, that sounds too big for the inner oring. The whole thing is 20mm so the 18mm od would stretch a little to be 20 mm od.
Anyways, I'm glad you checked. I had planned on picking up the fasttech ones on my next order.
Does fasttech sell a 12mm ID x 14mm OD x 1mm C/S? Or just the one that will fit the bottom o-ring it already comes with? I was excited to see the info link on the discussion there about the missing o-ring replacement.... but It sounds like that wasn't the correct size for the one o-ring it comes without.
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Yeal, and he was so adamant about it being just right. I quess it could work if the diameter of the groove it goes in is 18mm, but at 1.5mm thick it bound to be tight.
Here's a reasonably good picture of the original Immortalizer ( gee I have been spelling it wrong till now).
The size I stated fits and seal well but looking at this picture it appears to be 1.5 mm c/s so a 12 id x 1.5 mm may work or may be even a 10 mm id x 1.5, this one being the size for inside o-ring on carto tank. I will check this in a few minutes about the 10 x 1.5 (streched of coarse)
OK ,I have found them, I'll check for fit now
Note the posts on this one
NOPE the 10 mm x 1.5 o-ring is to fat (thick)
The size I stated fits and seal well but looking at this picture it appears to be 1.5 mm c/s so a 12 id x 1.5 mm may work or may be even a 10 mm id x 1.5, this one being the size for inside o-ring on carto tank. I will check this in a few minutes about the 10 x 1.5 (streched of coarse)
OK ,I have found them, I'll check for fit now
Note the posts on this one
NOPE the 10 mm x 1.5 o-ring is to fat (thick)
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Just pulled out the o-ring from my real immo, 13mm ID, 15mm OD, 1mm thickness.
I mentioned this in a early post. If you happen to have a mini did clone not in use, you can use one of the o-rings from that for the FT immortalizer. It's a perfect fit.
Just pulled out the o-ring from my real immo, 13mm ID, 15mm OD, 1mm thickness.
Does it stretch a little when it goes on? Let me ask differently. Does the grove it goes in seem to be at least 15mm in diameter?
Nope, it barely stretched but will still go into the groove.
I really should've tried the oring in the clones while I had it out... :/ bbl with some more deets.
edit:
So it looks like the oring groove in the clone is slightly wider than on the real one but still kinda does work with the original's oring. Another thing that I overlooked was the fact the the threading is coarser on the clone so the sleeves or top cap aren't interchangeable. Besides that everything else is spot on.
Real with oring installed
Clone with oring installed
I really should've tried the oring in the clones while I had it out... :/ bbl with some more deets.
edit:
So it looks like the oring groove in the clone is slightly wider than on the real one but still kinda does work with the original's oring. Another thing that I overlooked was the fact the the threading is coarser on the clone so the sleeves or top cap aren't interchangeable. Besides that everything else is spot on.
Real with oring installed
Clone with oring installed
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Just want to add this, as long as the id is near correct, smaller but not larger (11mm - 13mm), and as long as the cross section is 1 mm it will work just fine as we are not dealing with any high pressure here. Interesting and good to know about the treading differences.
I ordered on Aug 25th and just got it yesterday. It was held up at HK post for over 3 weeks.
There were batteries in the package, but they let it through.
I got 2 of the Trustfire 18350 IMR to test out.
Pretty sure they are relabeled Efests.
The markings under the Trustfire wrap are the same as my Efest 18350.
Edited to add: I did not, and would not use these batteries for this setup. Especially at .7ohm.
I got them for my vamo to use in stealth mode.
Anyways, back to the FT Immortalizer.
Mine was a wreck when it showed up.
Same issues as many others have had.
No oring for the sleeve and my negative screw was flopping around stripped out of the box.
It does look great though, much better than the pics on FT.
I decided to try and get the thing working today.
Scrubbed it up in warm water with some dish soap and dried it off.
I found an oring from my flashlight building days that fit for the inner sleeve. Sorry, don't know the size. Will try to find out.
Fixed the screw by using a small piece of 28ga kanthal that I shaped kind of like a horseshoe and inserted it into the hole.
Come to think of it, I shaped the piece like an upside down OHM symbol.
Had to push pretty hard on my screwdriver to get it to thread in, but that baby went in nice and tight.
Very solid now.
Wrapped up a piece of .6x.1mm ribbon about 4 times around a 2mm bike spoke. Came out to .7ohm.
Used a section of organic cotton that fit pretty loosely into the coil.
Assembled and put about 5 drops of my fav juice.
I gotta say, with all the talk about reduced chamber and tight draw I didn't expect such a huge cloud.
But the taste is outta this world!
The one thing I noticed right away was how nice and warm the vape was.
Not super hot, but warm and creamy with the juice I was using.
Overall pretty stoked on this setup, despite all the issues these things have out of the box.
I would recommend it only to the advanced tinkerer.
I'm pretty good working with this kind of stuff, and it had me pretty frustrated a couple times.
Think I may order another 2 of these to have around.....but definitely going to get my hands on the real deal.
Mine came yesterday. It was nice and clean and smelled ok, so I didn't tear it apart, just cleaned the surface areas with alcohol. The installed ribbon coil measured .5 ohms on my yj. I put it on my v3 and dry burned it a little. I had tossed some hansen 24mg ry4 in the cart so I soaked the wick, and holy cow, that was intense! 
I now understand the sub ohm fans lol.
It's not for me though. After 9 or 10 vapes, I pulled the ribbon, and put in a 32 ga, 1.4 ohm, single coil, duel wire wrapped side by side around a 5/64th bit. Toss in a cheese cloth wick and awwww, much better lol.
No inner o-ring, but at least the screws weren't stripped and you could tell it had been properly cleaned and set up albeit .5 instead of 1 ohm.
The draw is perfect for me but I'm not using the sleeve. I'll drill the sleeve soon as I find me a round tuit, but in the meantime, I'm really, really liking this atty.
I made the tails of the cheese cloth long enough to poke out the top when I screwed it on. I trimmed them to about 1/4th of an inch above the top, then tucked them back around the sides of the chamber to where I could clearly see down to the coil. At first I was getting some seeping out the air holes from over dripping but once I got more used to it that's pretty much disappeared.
This and my 804s vape very similar, and the slight difference is probably explained by the distance from the coil to the end of the drip tip more that anything else.
I also received a few of the VZ sc flavors, so I plan on a lot of mixing and vaping this week.
Happy vaping everybody!
I now understand the sub ohm fans lol.It's not for me though. After 9 or 10 vapes, I pulled the ribbon, and put in a 32 ga, 1.4 ohm, single coil, duel wire wrapped side by side around a 5/64th bit. Toss in a cheese cloth wick and awwww, much better lol.
No inner o-ring, but at least the screws weren't stripped and you could tell it had been properly cleaned and set up albeit .5 instead of 1 ohm.
The draw is perfect for me but I'm not using the sleeve. I'll drill the sleeve soon as I find me a round tuit, but in the meantime, I'm really, really liking this atty.
I made the tails of the cheese cloth long enough to poke out the top when I screwed it on. I trimmed them to about 1/4th of an inch above the top, then tucked them back around the sides of the chamber to where I could clearly see down to the coil. At first I was getting some seeping out the air holes from over dripping but once I got more used to it that's pretty much disappeared.
This and my 804s vape very similar, and the slight difference is probably explained by the distance from the coil to the end of the drip tip more that anything else.
I also received a few of the VZ sc flavors, so I plan on a lot of mixing and vaping this week.
Happy vaping everybody!
Tip for rebuilding with round wire. The bottom terminal has a small hole in it and the screw is long enough to go down in that hole a little. What that means is that it will cut your wire like a knife through butter if you tighten the screw. Turn the screw down until it contacts the wire, then snug it on down, perhaps 1/8th of a turn or so.
There's a good amount of surface area, plus the screw is not apt to back off, so snug should work just as good as tight.
There's a good amount of surface area, plus the screw is not apt to back off, so snug should work just as good as tight.
Ugh, I got my immortalizer today and both screws were stripped. Used a bit of 32g wire between the screw and threads. I got it to tighten down but this isn't going to be a permanent solution. Opening a ticket with Fasttech now.
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