When I say missfire I mean when I press the button sometimes it won't activate the cartomizer. I have to take it off and put it back. Then it works....
I know that. I am trying to get it to work as a Light Sabre.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I know that. I am trying to get it to work as a Light Sabre.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
When I say missfire I mean when I press the button sometimes it won't activate the cartomizer. I have to take it off and put it back. Then it works....
Mine just broke this morning. Fire button's return mechanism failed. it'll still fire, but no button press (it's just stuck at the pressed position). Turns itself off and on on it's own. This makes me very sad
Get it back to where you got it from ASAP
Of course I didn't let the batts sun all the way down. But using two AW 18490 1100 mah.
I got a total of 14 hrs of heavy vaping
Nice! I assume you are using the longer tube for that? Or does it work w/ the standard tube? most I've packed into mine was dual 18350 batteries.
I ordered mine off of ivape.net last week. Been playing with it for 3 days now. I love it. A few things I'd like to comment on.
Mine didn't come with the two iClear 30s, even though it was in the picture on the website. That's fine because I ordered a Kanger Protank when I placed my order. Not the biggest bummer, but a slight disappointment.
It also only came with the small tube. It appears two 18350s fit no problem in the small tube it came with. I'm unaware if this was changed or whatever. There isn't much room left on the threads after things are tightened down (not too tight). I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced this with dual battery mode.
On a side note, I'm confused about battery mAh. Dual battery mode with my batteries totals with 1600 mAh, while my 18650s are both 2000mAh. It seems like Dual Battery mode is just an extra 'bell-&-whistle'. I'm still unsure about that because normally I run single 18350 so it will fit in my hard case with the tank installed. With 18650, I have to remove the tank and takes up space for an extra battery or juice.
I feel like ... of the "con's" about the screen orientation while using the SVD right handed is all false. I press the button with my thumb and the orientation seems very good to me. When I use my index finger, it would appear that the LCD is up-side-down... I don't get what all the fuss is about that.
Combined with the Protank, this device is pretty divine. After a few new flavors, I discovered that the Protank really throws out a legit flavor after proper steeping is completed. I really love this setup.
I enjoy the fading battery light indicator built into the fire button. I can vape and it stays on just long enough for me to pull it away from my mouth and glance at it's color.
The rattling around the batter tube is not a big deal. I don't over tighten my tube. I feel like tighter threads would be better, but the version I have is great. I don't just slide my device in my packet. I have a mini I use when I'm in an active environment. However, last night I found myself a position in which i had no place to sat my device. Long story short I dropped it from about 2 feet onto concrete. Didn't phase it. That particular circumstance won't occur again because well, I'll leave the details out for the better of my post.
I don't own an SVD, but, stacked 18350/800 batteries can only supply 800mah of current, it's a series arrangement of the batteries. If performance is similar to a Vamo, assuming a similar chipset to run the electronics, the current drain on a stack is about 1/3 that of the current drain on a single 18650. That will result in similar vaping time between the two.
To eliminate the rattle, maybe stretching the spring would help.
I don't fully understand how the battery series works for I'm not well educated in the math and whatnot. Thank you for the enlightenment!
The spring is housed and concealed in a special connection piece on the bottom battery cap that doesn't seem to be removable or stretchable. The rattling is caused by slight play of the battery observing that the telescopic tube has a greater diameter than the main body that provides the screws. The treads are a lower TPI than the beta version and has a "loose" feel to the threadings. I can tighten the tube down very tight to eliminate this, but I feel like the added pressure may damage the positive terminal of the device. I suspect the did this to minimize the effort of changing the telescopic tube's size. Plus a smaller thread and tighter TPI could allow jamming if the threads were ever damaged.
I've also observed that the loudest rattling comes from the metal + and - buttons. If iTaste was to install an o-ring under each where it is secured in the button housing, this would eliminate the rattle, but also may cause a button to stick. It's not a big deal, really. When i read reviews before ordering this, I was under the impression that the rattles heard on videos were due to the tube itself. I was going to use teflon tape to reduce it. in the end, when I got mine, nothing was needed.