Instead of Ice Cleaner Acid...

[Recycled]

Muriatic Acid.

Isn't that "just" highly concentrated HCl ? (or is it H2SO4 ?) Hydrochloric acid is pretty common and should dilute/wash away the same as any acid, like Acetic acid (vinegar), right? Everyone seems to freak about Muriatic, but if it is just strong HCl, its main danger would be in the handling of it, and possibly its high strength could damage delicate parts. It seems to me that good washing would neutralize most of the perceived dangers from residue. Don't most acids react with water and become dilute?

Or perhaps a next-to-final bath in a lightly basic solution of, say, baking soda...just to be sure. And then another water bath as a final rinse.

??

 

[~Wonder]

FILTER POUCH CLEANER on Coffee Dispenser Cleaner Company, LLC

I purchased some of this online. I finally got an atomizer go cold on me. It's an RN4075 and from what I can see of the coil, it's pretty gunky. I'll let you know how it works. I hope it works. I've been using just the Marlboro flavor from Janty.

 

[Kendra]

I purchased some of this online. I finally got an atomizer go cold on me. It's an RN4075 and from what I can see of the coil, it's pretty gunky. I'll let you know how it works. I hope it works. I've been using just the Marlboro flavor from Janty.

It might help to do this before the atomizer goes cold. Sun found that the gunk actually accumulates until the coil is lifted away from the base-- the gunk pulls it up as it accumulates.

So, if the atomizer is already cold, it might be too late. Probably best to do it when it's a bit compromised but still working.

 

[Sun Vaporer]

Muriatic Acid.

Isn't that "just" highly concentrated HCl ? (or is it H2SO4 ?) Hydrochloric acid is pretty common and should dilute/wash away the same as any acid, like Acetic acid (vinegar), right? Everyone seems to freak about Muriatic, but if it is just strong HCl, its main danger would be in the handling of it, and possibly its high strength could damage delicate parts. It seems to me that good washing would neutralize most of the perceived dangers from residue. Don't most acids react with water and become dilute?

Or perhaps a next-to-final bath in a lightly basic solution of, say, baking soda...just to be sure. And then another water bath as a final rinse.

??

People this is a good example of somone giving bad advise--Muriatic Acid is hard core and has no legitmate office here-- Here is the real deal on this deadly and toxic solvent that should never be employed:


Concentrated hydrochloric acid (fuming hydrochloric acid) forms acidic mists. Both the mist and the solution have a corrosive effect on human tissue, with the potential to damage respiratory organs, eyes, skin, and intestines. Upon mixing hydrochloric acid with common oxidizing chemicals, such as sodium hypochlorite (bleach, NaClO) or permanganate (KMnO4), the toxic gas chlorine is produced. Personal protective equipment such as rubber or PVC gloves, protective eye goggles, and chemical-resistant clothing and shoes are used to minimize risks when handling hydrochloric acid.[1]
The hazards of solutions of hydrochloric acid depend on the concentration. The following table lists the EU classification of hydrochloric acid solutions.[16]
Concentration
by weightClassificationR-Phrases10–25%Irritant (Xi)R36/37/38> 25%Corrosive (C)R34R37

The United States Environmental Protection Agency rates and regulates hydrochloric acid as a toxic substance.[17]


Please heed to warning and do not use----Sun

 

[~Wonder]

It might help to do this before the atomizer goes cold. Sun found that the gunk actually accumulates until the coil is lifted away from the base-- the gunk pulls it up as it accumulates.

So, if the atomizer is already cold, it might be too late. Probably best to do it when it's a bit compromised but still working.

Well, maybe cold is the wrong term. I'm still not familiar with the vaping colloquialisms The atomizer still works and produces a very small amount of vapor. I've tried other cleaning methods such as soaking in hot vinegar, letting it soak in a cup of near boiling water, and stuffing it with baking soda and then dropping it into a cup of vinegar. Nothing improved the amount of vapor it produced and from what I can see of the coil/wick, it's still all gunky. My theory is that the wick is coated in the black gunk and so not enough liquid is absorbed. The atomizer does get warm when it's used, warmer than a non clogged one, which supports my theory. Not enough liquid can get to the atomizer to cool it off. I've only used this atomizer for a week and not all that frequently. I may have let it run too dry at times. Who knows. But hopefully this stuff will help get the gunk off. It seems the safest to handle and the inhalation hazards seem pretty mild based on the MSDS. I'll make sure to do a thorough rinsing.

 

[Sun Vaporer]

Well, maybe cold is the wrong term. I'm still not familiar with the vaping colloquialisms The atomizer still works and produces a very small amount of vapor. I've tried other cleaning methods such as soaking in hot vinegar, letting it soak in a cup of near boiling water, and stuffing it with baking soda and then dropping it into a cup of vinegar. Nothing improved the amount of vapor it produced and from what I can see of the coil/wick, it's still all gunky. My theory is that the wick is coated in the black gunk and so not enough liquid is absorbed. The atomizer does get warm when it's used, warmer than a non clogged one, which supports my theory. Not enough liquid can get to the atomizer to cool it off. I've only used this atomizer for a week and not all that frequently. I may have let it run too dry at times. Who knows. But hopefully this stuff will help get the gunk off. It seems the safest to handle and the inhalation hazards seem pretty mild based on the MSDS. I'll make sure to do a thorough rinsing.

Wonder--you brave sole--not heeding to the warnings!!--well at least you are still with us--LOL. Now as for the heating without vape--that is a function of the mesh wicking--if the coil is getting hot and you feel the atomizer is hot, then flood the atomizer and get more e-liquid all around the mesh that goes all the way around the ceramic pot that holds the coil. Give it a good soaking and then let us know--

Again people --these are experiments and not adovcated and being done at people's own risk who do not heed to warnings----Sun

 

[~Wonder]

Wonder--you brave sole--not heeding to the warnings!!--well at least you are still with us--LOL.

Aww... the warnings aren't that bad for this coffee pot cleaner stuff. And anyways, I hear Jesus is a pretty standup guy

Now as for the heating without vape--that is a function of the mesh wicking--if the coil is getting hot and you feel the atomizer is hot, then flood the atomizer and get more e-liquid all around the mesh that goes all the way around the ceramic pot that holds the coil. Give it a good soaking and then let us know--

Oh trust me, I have. The mesh wicking was thoroughly soaked. I was getting very little vapor production. I've tried everything I could think of to get this thing to produce more vapor. The thing is, it seems more like the wick inside the coil is what's clogged based on what little I can see. I can still see part of the nichrome wire and it only appears a little gunky while the wick seems blacker, but nothing nearly as gross as some of the pictures I've seen here. I didn't really do too much maintenance while I was using besides rinsing it with warm water a couple times. So yeah, I'll report back once I get the coffee pot cleaner stuff. They have internet in heaven, right?

 

[kinabaloo]

Wonder - the material inside the coil never returns from black as far as i know, but can still function ok. If you can see the coil clearly then it should be working ok, even if not shiny. Maybe still some water in there ?

 

[~Wonder]

Wonder - the material inside the coil never returns from black as far as i know, but can still function ok. If you can see the coil clearly then it should be working ok, even if not shiny. Maybe still some water in there ?

I don't know, I've been puffing on it for a good half an hour. The previous times I've rinsed it in water and blown out the excess as best I could, it only took a couple minutes, if that, to return to normal vapor production. This thing still at best produces 50% normal vapor. Now correct me if I'm wrong, but based on the atomizer designs I've seen, the kevlar wick or whatever it's made out of, is what brings the juice to the coil. If the wick is clogged with residue, then that would be the primary cause of decreased vapor production. Without the wick, not much juice gets to the coil. But yeah, I can't see all that well into my atomizer, it's an RN4075. I could very well be mistaking part of the metal mesh for the coil. Anways, I've fiddled with trying to make this atomizer work too much tonight. Heck, it only cost $6. I'll see how much gunk, if any, comes out when I try this cleaner.

 

[kinabaloo]

2 minutes enough to dry water from coil but there might be water in the metal wicking still perhaps, not all fed through yet.

Also, try degreasing the contacts between atomizer and battery.

 

[Sun Vaporer]

Now correct me if I'm wrong, but based on the atomizer designs I've seen, the kevlar wick or whatever it's made out of, is what brings the juice to the coil. If the wick is clogged with residue, then that would be the primary cause of decreased vapor production. Without the wick, not much juice gets to the coil.

Wonder--almost--the coil's purpose is to produce heat. The bridge and the wire mesh are the reservoir that the coil heats up and produces the vapor--so if you have a hot atomizer with no vapor--the coil is working properly but the mesh needs more saturation---Sun

 

[kinabaloo]

Sucked air picks up tiny droplets of juice from the metal wicking (sides (through the 'holes') and especially the back (behing the coil) and onto the coil. The vapour comes from the coil only (the wicking does not get that hot). The kevlar/fibreglass 'wick' inside the coil is not connected to anything and so not really a wick. It simply holds some juice. Examination shows that after a successful clean that removed the gunk, this material stays black but is still absorbant. (It could also be black and still gunked of course, but if the coil is shiny then the clean has worked and the material will be absorbant.)

So either the mesh has some water in it
The mesh is damaged or still clogged
The power is insufficient, such as bad battery or dirty contacts.

 

[Recycled]

Sun,

I in no way was advocating the use of HCl. I did say "its main danger would be in the handling of it." Anyone attempting to use such a strong acid had better be very aware of safety. If someone were to try it, they should use an extremely dilute solution, and again, know what they are doing. It gives off gas that burns your nostrils. It is often used to clean up cement grout and the like when laying flooring. Gloves and goggles are necessary.

I, for one, won't be playing with Muriatic acid. It is HCl in a pretty high concentration.

My main object of that post was to ask what people know about the properties of acids and their ability to be washed away, since most of the discussion of muriatic that I have seen seems to be concerned with residue.

I was asking a question, not giving advice.

I have done a little chemistry and wondered if possibly a very dilute HCl would work ("The hazards of solutions of hydrochloric acid depend on the concentration") Since Vinegar or Phosphoric acid seem to work a bit...maybe a slightly stronger acid would do a bit more. If acid is what seems to be working...just a thought.

I do follow your posts with interest, as you seem to be doing some thorough and well thought out work.
I am waiting to hear how that kettle cleaner works out (or not), as you mentioned in another thread.

People: Don't mess around with extremely caustic volatile liquids!

 

[kinabaloo]

A substantial part of the deposit is carbon, which no chemical can dissolve or react with (at normal pressure and reasonale temperature, anyway). It seems that the carbon content increases with time as the deposit is degraded by repeated heating.

Maybe the kettle cleaner has some clever surfactant properties to release the deposit from the wire; we will see ...

 

[exogenesis]

Or what might be in the popcornmaker cleaner ? Did you look at the hints (the cautions section of the datasheet that gives potential reaction products) ?

Guessing it's an alkaline chemical mix

Generates heat when mixed with acid

but can't gleen much beyond that except it's probably got organic chemicals, surfactants?

Hazardous Decomposition Products:
...Aldehydes Hydrocarbons. Ketones Hydrogen

Don't know why it would do this

hydrogen gas may be produced on contact with aluminum, tin, lead, and zinc.

 

[kinabaloo]

Exogenesis - yes, that last one is quite strange - I can't see what those 4 metals have in common.

I am surprised that any product can legally hide the ingredients.

 

[markule]

Muriatic Acid.

Isn't that "just" highly concentrated HCl ? (or is it H2SO4 ?) Hydrochloric acid is pretty common and should dilute/wash away the same as any acid, like Acetic acid (vinegar), right? Everyone seems to freak about Muriatic, but if it is just strong HCl, its main danger would be in the handling of it, and possibly its high strength could damage delicate parts. It seems to me that good washing would neutralize most of the perceived dangers from residue. Don't most acids react with water and become dilute?

Or perhaps a next-to-final bath in a lightly basic solution of, say, baking soda...just to be sure. And then another water bath as a final rinse.

??

It's Hydrochloric acid, HCl, and concentration varies. Very common, including stomach acid (about pH 2), and in low concentrations tastes kinda like lemonade. HCl by itself is a gas, though VERY soluble in water, and would leave no residue once dry. Read the container's instructions for safe handling and you'd be fine. I was a chemist before my current career, so i've used a lot of HCl over the years and it's not nearly as hazardous as a lot of other solvents.

 

[~Wonder]

So I got my order today and I've got my atomizer soaking in it right now. Unfortunately I won't have any before/after pictures cause I have a crappy camera and an RN4075 atomizer. I do have enough of this cleaner to last a lifetime, especially seeing as how I have to use so little to clean an atomizer. I'll let you guys know how it works.

 

[ZambucaLu]

Sorry....don't want to look back through all the posts....but what did you get Wonder?

Lu

 

[exogenesis]

I think that was FILTER POUCH CLEANER
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...69-instead-ice-cleaner-acid-3.html#post197855

msds:
http://coffeedispensercleanercompanyllc.thomasnet.com/Asset/02262_MSDS_NP_04-30-08.pdf

Trisodium Phosphate
Sodium Metasilicate Pentahydrate
Sodium Carbonate
Sodium Percarbonate
Sodium Tripolyphosphate

think only the Metasilicate is mildly questionable,
"irritating to the eyes, the skin and the respiratory tract"
but very soluble in water (= I guess rinses out easily)

Not too scary

but effective ??