IPV 35w and 50w box mods
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Can anyone suggest a setup for me for my IPV2. I am new to rda, although I do have some building experience with my mvp2 and a smok caterpillar, although I didn't get much our of it except how to build since my device couldn't handle it. Elev8 hooked me up with my order big time so I now have a tobh cone coming along with my ipv for a reasonable price. Besides that, I am looking for dense clouds but in no means competition, just something more satifing then my MVP could provide at higher wattage. I have 28 gauge kantal and organic cotton. What ohm should I use for my final build, I was thinking between .3-.5 but how high can I push my new device, wattage wise. I also have a vtc5 so I should be safe up to 50w from what I have read. Setup suggestions please. I will post pics after it's all setup, black on black tobh with green aluminum drip tip from intanked!
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You don't need to build low. Since you have 28awg, build a 1ohm dual coil on that tobh..wick with cotton, or check out the other options for wick materials. Good surface area.. you have a regulated device.
You can do single coil builds on tobh if you block off airholes on one side.
Get 22-26 awg if you wanna build at lower resistances.
You can do single coil builds on tobh if you block off airholes on one side.
Get 22-26 awg if you wanna build at lower resistances.
BTW. For those with the IPV and an inline voltmeter, could y'all do everyone a favor and check out the accuracy of the output?
Of course bearing in mind the results of our last test: no voltage step down + display shows user specified settings but output is limited by actual chip limits,
Now let's try testing out how accurate the output is, as long as we stay within limits. I'm gonna preface this by saying that I apologize if I sound like a demanding little brat, but alas this guy is stuck in Iraq for deployment.
Now that I have that outta the way, here's what I propose. We should test multiple resistance across multiple wattage settings. For the purpose of this test, we will assume that the min voltage is 4 V to give us more room for error.
So. Test specs:
1) 0.5 ohms
- 50 watts (expected voltage = 5V)
2) 0.8 ohms
- 50 watts (expected voltage = 6.32 V)
- 40 watts (expected voltage = 5.66 V)
- 30 watts (expected voltage = 4.90V)
- 20 watts (expected voltage = 4 volts);
3) 1 ohm
- 50 watts (expected voltage = 7.07 V)
- 40 watts (expected voltage = 6.32V)
- 30 watts (expected voltage = 5.48V)
- 20 watts (expected voltage = 4.47 V)
4) 1.5 ohms
- 40 watts (expected voltage = 7.75 V)
- 30 watts (expected voltage = 6.71V)
- 20 watts (expected voltage = 5.48V)
So yeap. The aim is to test each representative resistance at each of the 10s representative wattages and see how the output compares to the expected value. Additionally some wattages are left out for different resistance since they're beyond the limitations of the chips (either max voltage or min).
The reason I'm hoping someone could do this is because I've seen some reviews talk about a warmer vape, and some burnt tastes. So I do wonder if the mod is firing a little higher than specified
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Of course bearing in mind the results of our last test: no voltage step down + display shows user specified settings but output is limited by actual chip limits,
Now let's try testing out how accurate the output is, as long as we stay within limits. I'm gonna preface this by saying that I apologize if I sound like a demanding little brat, but alas this guy is stuck in Iraq for deployment.
Now that I have that outta the way, here's what I propose. We should test multiple resistance across multiple wattage settings. For the purpose of this test, we will assume that the min voltage is 4 V to give us more room for error.
So. Test specs:
1) 0.5 ohms
- 50 watts (expected voltage = 5V)
2) 0.8 ohms
- 50 watts (expected voltage = 6.32 V)
- 40 watts (expected voltage = 5.66 V)
- 30 watts (expected voltage = 4.90V)
- 20 watts (expected voltage = 4 volts);
3) 1 ohm
- 50 watts (expected voltage = 7.07 V)
- 40 watts (expected voltage = 6.32V)
- 30 watts (expected voltage = 5.48V)
- 20 watts (expected voltage = 4.47 V)
4) 1.5 ohms
- 40 watts (expected voltage = 7.75 V)
- 30 watts (expected voltage = 6.71V)
- 20 watts (expected voltage = 5.48V)
So yeap. The aim is to test each representative resistance at each of the 10s representative wattages and see how the output compares to the expected value. Additionally some wattages are left out for different resistance since they're beyond the limitations of the chips (either max voltage or min).
The reason I'm hoping someone could do this is because I've seen some reviews talk about a warmer vape, and some burnt tastes. So I do wonder if the mod is firing a little higher than specified
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@thekiwi
I would contribute that burning to people not knowing what they're doing....
Oh..elev8vape just sent me another email. They said my tracking number was refunded.. it'll be here Monday.
I would contribute that burning to people not knowing what they're doing....
Oh..elev8vape just sent me another email. They said my tracking number was refunded.. it'll be here Monday.
Not sure you should be so engrossed with building low, given it's obvious you haven't fully grasp ohms law and how it relates to battery safety and ratings.
Just build a normal 1ish ohm coil and read up on it more first. Like actually understand what you wanna do, instead of just "I heard that you can..."
You'll be much better off esp if you ever decide to use a mech next time. Just saying.
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@thekiwi
I would contribute that burning to people not knowing what they're doing....
Oh..elev8vape just sent me another email. They said my tracking number was refunded.. it'll be here Monday.
I dunno. Often I would be inclined to agree, since for some reason, these days folks are waaaaay to eager to blame their atties or mods first before acknowledging they're wrong.
But I've seen some really experienced folks who have commented that the IPV outputs a noticeably warmer vape on the same build.
So. Me being the lab rat that I am. No better way to determine the truth then a quick experiment! Scientific and unbiased for all intents and purposes
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I have done some research into it and those were just my thoughts so far, I have read a lot about battery safety and it seems that I shouldn't have any issue with a 30a vtc5 and the safety features built into the device, besides maybe my wicking material catching on fire at higher watts. I have seen several people successfully build .5 or lower on regulated devices such as rip trippers with good results, so why is it a bad idea. I have studied my batteries spec and composition and educated myself in discharging and safely, so I would like to try a lower ohm build. Besides what I wanted to try, does anyone have any suggestions on what they are running and what works for them
Edit: after rereading my post, I didn't mean safe up to 50w at a sub ohm build, just meant with the device and my battery I do understand that wouldn't be a good idea
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I had no problem at all with my Kayfun clone fitting. I had to back the 510 screw out a little to make contact, and it fit nice and flush.
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Does everyone's unit say 1.0 ohms when you hit fire and don't have an atty attached? Also, i'm assuming its showing the voltage left on the battery... is this correct?
No I don't think that's the voltage left on the battery. Adjust your wattage without an attie on and that number changes. I think it's showing the voltage a 1.0 ohm coil would be firing at at the set wattage.
Thanks..that's a relief I will definitely get one the minute I get my next paycheck
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I will definitely get one the minute I get my next paycheck Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
You are right. I assume there is no way to display voltage left? The 1 ohm thing makes me wonder about the short circuit protection.
What works for me and what I have been running is a 0.3 Ohm 26 gauge 5/6 wraps on a kraken genesis atomizer. I'm not a big fan of dripping anymore aha. Btw I'm using vtc4s and vtc5s.
Ohhhh crap. I've managed to come across sounding like an ....... again. My bad.
Anyways my point was really that the suitability of a battery has nothing to do with the watts supplied to a build. Not directly at least. The only thing that actually matters is how many amps of currents is being drawn to supply that wattage. That's why I can tell you might not have really really understood the whole battery safety aspect of it.
And you can most certainly vape at 50 watts with the vtc5 very safely at a whole multitude of resistance.
Eg
0.5 ohms, 5V = 50 watts, drawing 10amps = safe
On the other hand,
0.05 ohms, 50 watts draws 31.6 amps = not safe.
So yeap. Point is wattage doesn't mean much for safety. All that matters is the current required to provide the wattage.
In any case, a VTC5 will be more than capable of firing any builds that the IPV chip will fire (down to 0.2 ohms) so there's no issue.
I just wanted you to make sure you understand these details so that when you do venture to using mechs, you'll be safe. Hope I didn't come off to strong previously. Cheers!
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I am using an ehpro kayfun lite 2 on mine right now, works fine.
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