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itaste VTR

Discussion in 'VV/VW APV Discussion' started by greghemmings, Oct 15, 2013.

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  1. awsum140

    awsum140 Vaping Master Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Supporting member
    Hi Hornet and welcome to the ECF, vaping and the VTR.

    From what you've said I am guessing that the PT is the source of the problem. Check to make sure all the little silicon "O" rings are in place. I had one that stated leaking on me and one of the internal O rings had slipped out of position. The VTR won't make anything leak though. Depending on exactly which model of the PT you have you could open up the draw a little by drilling out the air holes to 1/16". Those bases are brass or "pot metal" and drill very easily. If you try that use a very slow speed on your drill to improve control.
     
  2. wjosephsimmons

    wjosephsimmons Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Nov 27, 2013
    City of Angels
    Hi Hornet - awsum140 is correct. The first thing to check is the secure placement of the o-rings in both the base and the top rim of the glass tank of the PT2, there should be one each in those places, inside the metal "end-caps", to prevent leaking. If not, the tank will leak (especially if the bottom o-ring is missing). However, the PT2 may sometimes still leak through the stock base of the atomizer, so the best strategy is to replace this base with a Kanger Airflow Control Valve (see pic). It not only ensures the prevention of leaks, but also it prevents clogging and greatly facilitates the adequate airflow into the drip tip.

    protank o-rings.jpg Kanger Airflow Control Valve-5.jpg VTR with Protank 2, Stainless Steel Replacement Tank for Kanger Protank 2, with the Aerotank bas.jpg
     
  3. NCHornet

    NCHornet Full Member

    Dec 27, 2014
    Middle of no where
    Y'all are awesome, thanks for the info and the pics. As far as I can tell all the seals are in place. I ordered 2 more of the PT2's so when they arrive I am going to compare them to the one I have and see if I can see anything that might be off. It is strange, if I take smaller hits, no leak, but when I really get a big hit it pukes juice. I have zero leaks with the 30S, but prefer the draw of the PT2. I also ordered the air control base, so hopefully I can figure out what is going on. It has to be something out of place because it didn't leak when I first got it. Thanks again for all your help.
    Kevin
     
  4. wjosephsimmons

    wjosephsimmons Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Nov 27, 2013
    City of Angels
    Yeah, the airflow control valve is the best five bucks I ever spent on vaping. Improves the PT2 incredibly. I have a back-up just in case, but I'm still using daily the first one I bought back when they came out almost a year ago. Remember there are PT2 clones out there that go by the name "ProTank" but are not Kanger; I've never tried them, but for a few bucks more IMO it's not worth the risk. :thumb:

    PS - also make sure the little rubber (silicon) gasket on the PT2 coil is secure; I have a friend who thought it was part of the packaging and was removing it prior to use, and she had alot of leaking as a result!

    coil.jpg
     
  5. NCHornet

    NCHornet Full Member

    Dec 27, 2014
    Middle of no where
    will do, thanks!!!!!
     
  6. Micky Finn

    Micky Finn Full Member

    Dec 29, 2014
    Wanaka New Zealand
    I - Taste VTR

    The most rugged and reliable box mod period.
     
  7. PaulBHC

    PaulBHC Vaping Master ECF Veteran

    Jan 22, 2014
    Arizona
  8. DJ Colonel Corn

    DJ Colonel Corn The Vapor Ninja Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Supporting member
    Uhhh.
    You say the wheel on the pin not turning is a 'Fix" ?
    Not sure what you mean.
    I have to read more of this thread, but I too just got a VTR and the wheel for the pin adjustment doesnt spin at all, from brand new, so it can't be from leaked juice. And yes, I've also seen the vids of people turning it easily. My shop is sold out, I got the last one, they say they could replace it IF and WHEN they get more, but could be a while.
    Also, the wattage/votage adjustment wheel is loose, doesn't adjust by increment every time dial is 'clicked' it's more like every 2 or 3 clicks it moves the wattage. Is this normal ?
    The only thing that makes me feel a bit better is, it was a replacement for a defective mod I bought at same store for $65 so I only had to pay $20 more to get my VTR. Nice guys, but they had a bad supplier.
    So what is meant by a 'Fix" ?
    :confused:
    P.S. Not a real worry that the firing pin wheel doesn't spin, it meets up and works perfect with what it was designed for, the iClear 30S, which happens to be my favorite tank against all my likely choices, he he. What can I say it works well. I know it's top firing dual coil. I know it's silica wick, and I know it's not a glass tank. Yadda yadda, all that mattered to me until I actually tried it, heh.
    Now, onto reading this thread, which, of course, should have been done FIRST..... but I have little time this evening and wanted to ask
    T.I.A.
     
  9. DejayRezme

    DejayRezme Super Member ECF Veteran

    Mar 22, 2014
    Europe
    Yeah that's normal. The adjustment wheel is not very precise and sometimes skips a beat.

    The initial version 510 base spinning was a bad design because then you don't get good ground connection. The static 510 ring is much better.
     
  10. bigbells

    bigbells Resting In Peace ECF Veteran

    I have two Innokin VTRs which are no longer functional due to the fact that they are early models with 510 connections that DO spin. I have one (slightly newer) VTR that still functions correctly due to it NOT having a 510 connection that spins. The i30S clearo is my second favorite delivery device. Except for the fact that it has a smaller capacity and except for the fact that my Nautilus 5.0 ml (+} tanks will not fit in my working VTR, I'd still be using an i30 clearo and my VTR. The i30 and my Nautilus tanks (with BVC coils) are the only tanks I've ever used that can take more than 8 watts without burnt flavor.
     
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