itaste VTR

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I screwed up and purchased button top batteries. Will the flat tops work fine with the Vamo 5?
Not sure about the Vamo fit but my wife's VTR is using the button tops, The button tops make it tighter to latch the battery door. After a little bit of compression the issue is no longer an issue. I would recommend flat tops from the beginning though.
 
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wjosephsimmons

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I use a Panasonic 2800mah button top in both my VTRs and Vamos with no problem. I second the idea that if it doesn't fit it may be a "protected" battery and is probably no suitable to use due to current limitations.

You know awsum, it appears a button-top battery may still be "unprotected". I was under the impression that it was a distinguishing factor from unprotected cells, but a brief search turned up this illustration of a protected PCB battery; the button appears to be simply optional:

ProtectedBattery.png


See: The Anatomy of a Protected Battery

But I have read that you should not use a protected battery with the VTR due to the inherent protection circuitry in it. Something about it making it incompatible with a protected cell. For a thorough review, see Batitude's review here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/variable-voltage-apv-discussion/507844-question-about-itaste-vtr.html#post11709776
 

awsum140

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IMR batteries, so called "unprotected" batteries, are made in both button top and flat top. I have both the Panasonic and Efest 18650s in button top IMR. I also have a number of Panasonic "CH" and LG "HE" in flat tops. They all work very nicely in both the VTR and Vamo. Bad attitude is definitely the "source" for battery advice an information.

The whole "protected" battery thing is, I think, kind of a misnomer. IMR batteries, due to their internal chemistry which is designed to reduce the effects of thermal runaway, are actually "protected" by that very chemistry. Granted, there is no electronic protection circuit, or even a basic fuse, involved but the chemistry of modern, quality, unprotected batteries provides a level of protection that is quite substantial.

(to be read at double speed)
Just my opinion, worth what you're paying for it. No warranty or guarantee is expressed or implied. The reader explicitly agrees to hold the poster free and harmless from an liability or responsibility. Your results an mileage may vary. I am not a chemist, physicist, engineer or physician nor do I play any of them on TV. I hold no recognized degrees in any area. Proceed at your own risk.
 

MJBinNM

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How are all the gen2 vtr's working? They have been out now for almost a year.
I have a first gen that still works. I cut the tank ring off and put a Fat Daddy spring loaded connector on it. Works pretty good with a Fogger as long as I don't build too low ohms.

I don't use it as much as I used to but it still chugs. Must have pretty solid electronics.

8e8b0d0a55e221c146a6cde98a91ed68.jpg


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awsum140

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I'm still using my "Gen 1" but did change the 510 connector to a FatDaddy as well. I use it with the extension tube and a Fogger, ~2.0 ohm build, and it's still plugging along well. I take it with me when I go out walking the dog or shopping. It can start a conversation with the Fogger on top of the extension tube.
 

awsum140

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It's been a while since I put the Fat Daddy on this one, but I just did the ring modification to accept a 21mm tank -





I used a Dremel with a straight burr, working slowly until the tank, a Erlkonigin clone, fit. Then a sanding drum, then 220, 400 and 600 grit paper to smooth everything out. You can see the Fat Daddy in this shot.



The completed project, Fat Daddy connector, widened ring and a clone Erlkonigin tank, 1.6 ohm - 30 gauge build - rayon wick. This setup is my "go to" when going out walking the dog or in the car. This VTR is one of the originals and well over a year old now and still going strong.
 
After 2 years of vaping and discovering what I want out of a device I bought a VTR. Short box, recessed tank, spring loaded 510, easy replaceable battery and tough as ..... Yeah I get the buzzing too but I think it kinda makes it unique lol. I really love everything about it and hope it lasts for awhile. I'm using a protank 2 on it with a rebuilt coild head with 2ohm micro with 30awg. Love it!
 

TexasVet

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I'm still using my "Gen 1" but did change the 510 connector to a FatDaddy as well. I use it with the extension tube and a Fogger, ~2.0 ohm build, and it's still plugging along well. I take it with me when I go out walking the dog or shopping. It can start a conversation with the Fogger on top of the extension tube.

I'm going to leap and take the advice given here about upgrading to a fat daddy 510 connector. My VTR v1 is a year old and the threads in the 510 are getting sloppy. The PT2s still make contact but the Iclears 30S and X1s no longer stay screwed down firmly.

I guess not all tank threads are equal. Seems the PT2 ground material off until the iClears wouldn't engage. If the VTR 510 is chrome plated brass then I'm not surprised. Really hope the fat daddy solves my prob.

btw I finall found a 6mm torx tool. That was not easy. My MVP v2 will back up during the maintenence on the VTR.

UPDATE - Question. Having a bit of difficulty finding a source for the VTR 510 connector replacements in the US.
NOT paying freight from UK, not gonna happen.
FatDaddyVapes.com is a supplier and I'm not a re-seller. Who has the answer?
 
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I am new to vaping and the VTR is my first device. I didn't care for the IClear 30S as much as the protank 2. The PT 2 just draws much easier than the 30S. However I am having issues with the PT2, After a long drag I am getting juice on my hand holding the device. It appears to be coming from just below the spinning wheel that the PT2 screws into. When I take the tank off there is juice on the top of that spinning wheel. I haven't had issues with the OHM problem, but I read about it prior to ordering, when I received it I used 91% Alcohol and some very fine q tips that come to a sharp point and I cleaned inside the notches in the 510 hole. These q tips worked great. I had them for cleaning my guns. This issue with the juice leaking is really starting to bother me. Is it something to do with the PT2 or the VTR? If anyone can help with this I would appreciate it. I have tried some of the ideas on youtube that had me reverse the seal above the wick, as well as adding an extra o ring on the coil, but nothing has stopped this issue. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
Kevin
 
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