itaste VTR
- Thread starter greghemmings
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They lost me with "pre-punched 510 cartomizer". Never liked cartos or carto tanks. Plus the odd battery size, odd at least compared to what I have on hand, makes it an "oh well".
Carto-tanks is mostly what I use right now.
Hopefully my coil-building skills will improve enough to go down that road soon. Then, the Billet Box would be useless. Unless, I use a Sophia. Such tiny little coils!
Hopefully my coil-building skills will improve enough to go down that road soon. Then, the Billet Box would be useless. Unless, I use a Sophia. Such tiny little coils!
I learned to rebuild when I started using CE3s, the size of a carto but no filler. It can be done and work better than stock, it's just a matter of technique and practice.
Yeah, I rebuild CE3s all the time. They're my favorite "hands free" device. I'm in the process of rebuilding about 100 right now, got to be ready for vapocalyps.!
Wow, just searched YouTube and found this. It had never occurred to me to try to rebuild a CE3.
Thanks!
I use a slightly different technique. I wrap the coil, NR-R-NR 34 gauge, 2.4 ohms, on a 17 gauge needle. When I assemble it I use the needle to hold the coil at the top of the ceramic cup, in fact it can be done without the cup if you want. Once the silicon washer and center pin are in place, I wick with cellulose, rayon, and trim the wick basically flush with the body. By leaving the coil up it avoids "kinks" in the cup providing a better wick path and lets me dry burn and re-wick rather than do a complete rebuild. I also take them apart at the sink under running water to clean everything.
Maybe there's hope for my old CE3's after all. I'll have to get the 'microscope' out and give it a try.
Just a jewelers loupe will work fine. A pair of decent flush cutters is handy as well to trim off the wire to the center pin.
A jeweler's loupe. So, that's what that thing is called. Learn something every day.
If you cut off the vtr ring and leave the airflow ring off the fogger it actually fits. I actually thought about grinding away some material above the 510 connector to make it fit and have some "breathing room" for airflow, but I don't know how thick the metal is there.
I don't want to cut the ring off of my VTR, kind of alters the look too much and changes the functionality of the low mount tank. I think there isn't a whole lot of metal in the curved wall. I can't say for sure, yet, but when I worked on mine, changing the 510 connector, it looked kind of thin. I'm getting a caliper later this week and if I can get a measurement somehow I'll let you know for sure.
I have thought about cutting off the top ring and installing a homebrew ring that's big enough for a Fogger sized device. That depends on what is under the top cap and is there room for screws or rivets.
I have thought about cutting off the top ring and installing a homebrew ring that's big enough for a Fogger sized device. That depends on what is under the top cap and is there room for screws or rivets.
No there isn't enough metal to grind away, it appears to be extremely thin (< 1mm).
I opened mine now and removed the electronics. Now I have to figure out how to fit a potentiometer, the screen and the chip in the tiny space below the top cap.
I'm not sure how you could isntall a replacement ring mostly because the bevel around the screen is in the way. Else a bend piece of metal sheet would do, bend into a U shape. The walls of the top cap are about 1.5mm thick but it is some kind of "toy robot" metal.
I think that's called "pot metal". It's what they skim off the top of a melt of, say, steel, an used to get thrown away. It's been used to make cheap metal castings for years now because it has a relatively low melting temperature.
Has anyone had the unfortunate experience of buying Xtar batteries 18650 2100 mah that are just a bit too long for the VTR?
If they are just "a bit too long" it may be because they are "protected", ie. button-top batteries. The VTR has built-in protection hardware, so it is essential that they are only used with "unprotected" flat-top batteries. The best ones to use for the VTR in my experience are Panasonic NCR18650PF 2900mAh High Drain 10A IMR Li-on batteries:
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No Xtars but one of my VTRs will take Orbtronic PD 2900 10 amp, high drain button tops but the battery door won't close with that battery on my other VTR.
I screwed up and purchased button top batteries. Will the flat tops work fine with the Vamo 5?
Yes, it's all I use. Not that button tops will not work, but flats is all I have.
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