Joyetech Evic VT 60 Watt
- Thread starter jstrong
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Stop working? What do you mean..
Like I said before, stop messing with it! The coil is .12 ohms, don't fight it. It doesn't matter what anything else says you need the vt to read its correct cold resistance. .12, no splitting hairs.
Locking it or using it at .14 will cause the curve to be too hot. And later when its left alone it will go down the the real resistance of .12. Then you adjust up because its now correct.
Too hot? How.. What do you normally vape kanthal at, and what gauge. You have full control over temprature.. Don't worry about what the screen says its a scale not exact temps.
Turn the heat down till your happy?
Too much heat, use a lower gauge to absorb some of the heat and cause the ramp up to be slower. 26g or lower.
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Anyone know what the turn around time is for joytech to recieve, diagnose, and return a mod? my evic keeps going into short protection and they want me to send it back to them. I just dont feel like going and buying another mod to tide me over till it comes back
Never heard of anyone sending back..
What are you using on it?
It's pretty easy for certain atties to short with the heavy spring 510 the vt has.
What are you using on it?
It's pretty easy for certain atties to short with the heavy spring 510 the vt has.
It shorted on my freemax starre on friday. and then again about an hr ago with the same tank. any suggestions so i dont have to return it? is this a fixable problem. plugging it in and resetting the chip has worked both times so far to get it back on
How do you reset it? I'm in the process of returning mine to VapeNW since it no longer recognizes any of my atties.
Use a screwdriver to press the 510 pin in a few times. Could be something trapped in there causing the short.....i got that a few times in a row, but tried that and it hasn't sorted since
100 to 1 its the Starr..
The pin looks too big and the insulator looks weak. When you screw it on the vt pressurizes it and probably kicks it to the side and shorts it.. Or something like that. Or the heads are bad.
The atty is shorting and there's nothing wrong with the vt. It's doing what its supposed to do.
Have you other atties to try on it.. An rba if possible.
Weird problem you have niterider.. First I've heard of.. So when you put a tank on and fire it, it does nothing?
I would try to short it out, if it responds at all, to get a complete reboot. It just needs to detect a short, then be plugged in.
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That's right it does nothing. It's stuck on reading .70 ohms.
How would you go about shorting it out?
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
I dont remember if it was with my subtank mini the first time. ill throw it on and see what happens. thanks
So it basically doesn't respond. Can you change options?
Change to ni mode, or any other mode its fine, turn power down, insert screw driver ect. Into the 510 short the pin to the threads and fire it see if it shuts down.
By changing modes were trying to get it to send a test current to detect wire type. Hopefully it will send a current and detect the short and shut down..
Otherwise opening it up and working on it would be next I think.
There is a few small screws into the top cap from the board that make the ground for the 510. I would remove those to take the 510 out of the equation to see if it still reads Ohms.
It does allow me to change options like mode and wattage. But as soon as I fire, it changes back to Variable wattage mode without anything actually happening. I'll have to try shorting the pin like you mentioned when I get home.
Interestingly, this started happening after i built a 32 gauge 2.2 ohm coil for my wife and test fired it on the evic. The mandatory 30 watt start up caused the coil to get too hot and lost a leg causing it to short. It's been dead ever since.
Have you tried cycling it on and off over and over, say like 5x in a row?
Yeah, i must have done it a dozen times over. The chip used must not have been stable enough to handle short protection or the resetting after the short protection.
Bad chipset possibly.. I guess there has to be some amount of defects in any product..
Okay. I've waited for over two weeks to share my impressions of daily use with the VT.
Aside from some potential QC issues, I like it a lot.
As many people have noted, the juice holes on the stock ego one mega heads are borderline microscopic.
The tank itself sucks to fill (sidewall-chimney gap is also tiny), but doesn't seem leak prone and has reasonable airflow.
I have not used the stock coil heads without carefully drilling out the juice holes until they are flush with the tank base deck. The ni heads are okay but personally I think the VT hits better in ti mode (with ti, of course).
The Included ti heads are actually pretty damn good with all four juice holes drilled out. Mine took 70% VG and never went dry, I don't feel a max VG liquid would do any worse, but my results as a desert dweller would differ than someone living in a more temperate climate.
Temp protection seems to be a massive source of confusion in the community. It kicks in as a limiter to the amount of max power possible (set with wattage). If there is no airflow cooling the coil a trickle of power will maintain heat to a (tiny) temp control type coil. Add airflow and the wattage pops back up; maybe not to the max you set if you aren't drawing hard enough.
Anyhow, temp protection has been discussed in a large portion of this thread, so I'll move along.
The QC issue I feel like I need to make known is the spring loaded positive 510 pin. On my VT, it isn't spring loaded. It looks the same visually as one with a spring loaded pin, but it is stuck in the down position. Jiggling it in its insulator does nothing, and inverting the mod doesn't make it fall free from gravity.
I have two subtank nanos. One is older, and its positive 510 contact (a small disc) fits basically flush with the negative 510 screws, maybe even a little indented. The base of the other (newer) nano has a positive 510 pin (also a disc) that protrudes ever so slightly.
The newer nano is rock solid in terms of connection. Stock OCC ni heads read .13 ohm on the VT's meter and don't waver unless heated up when unlocked. Temp control isn't an accurate measure of wire temperature, and technically the coil should never see dry cotton, which has a higher burn temperature than dry. If you trigger the mod and don't apply any airflow... yeah you can scorch the cotton on any temp setting. The new nano rocks.
The old nano is basically unusable on my VT. It either reads no atomizer or throws a totally inaccurate reading, reverts to vw mode when it reads too high of a resistance in ni or to mode, then reads no Atty or gets that microsecond of good connection and reads atomizer low and shuts off. Oh well, I gave that nano different colored o rings and it only gets kanthal for the 50 watt istick it plays nice with.
If you are having trouble, definitely check your positive pins and see that they are compatible with your atomizers being used if the spring loaded pin isn't. My new subtank plus works just as well as my new nano and is so much better than the E1M tank.
Moving along.
I haven't been able to make any ni or ti coils for my mxv4 yet but I have been experimenting with different kanthal builds. I'd say 24 AWG is the beefiest wire this has the juice to fire with any reasonable ramp up time. I've had a lot better results using 30 AWG.
In vw mode it seems to fire a little harder in stealth mode since it isn't lighting up the screen; but this could be a placebo.
I'm getting an average of 1400 seconds of vape time per battery charge. I'll see how that changes as I switch entirely to vt mode to see how the claims of decreased juice consumption hold up, if it is hitting below 20 watts a lot of the time under temp protection it should conserve battery as well as vaporize less juice from less excessive heat.
Edit: holy hell I wrote a crushing block of text.
This is what happens when I read an entire 128 page thread and withhold commenting.
Aside from some potential QC issues, I like it a lot.
As many people have noted, the juice holes on the stock ego one mega heads are borderline microscopic.
The tank itself sucks to fill (sidewall-chimney gap is also tiny), but doesn't seem leak prone and has reasonable airflow.
I have not used the stock coil heads without carefully drilling out the juice holes until they are flush with the tank base deck. The ni heads are okay but personally I think the VT hits better in ti mode (with ti, of course).
The Included ti heads are actually pretty damn good with all four juice holes drilled out. Mine took 70% VG and never went dry, I don't feel a max VG liquid would do any worse, but my results as a desert dweller would differ than someone living in a more temperate climate.
Temp protection seems to be a massive source of confusion in the community. It kicks in as a limiter to the amount of max power possible (set with wattage). If there is no airflow cooling the coil a trickle of power will maintain heat to a (tiny) temp control type coil. Add airflow and the wattage pops back up; maybe not to the max you set if you aren't drawing hard enough.
Anyhow, temp protection has been discussed in a large portion of this thread, so I'll move along.
The QC issue I feel like I need to make known is the spring loaded positive 510 pin. On my VT, it isn't spring loaded. It looks the same visually as one with a spring loaded pin, but it is stuck in the down position. Jiggling it in its insulator does nothing, and inverting the mod doesn't make it fall free from gravity.
I have two subtank nanos. One is older, and its positive 510 contact (a small disc) fits basically flush with the negative 510 screws, maybe even a little indented. The base of the other (newer) nano has a positive 510 pin (also a disc) that protrudes ever so slightly.
The newer nano is rock solid in terms of connection. Stock OCC ni heads read .13 ohm on the VT's meter and don't waver unless heated up when unlocked. Temp control isn't an accurate measure of wire temperature, and technically the coil should never see dry cotton, which has a higher burn temperature than dry. If you trigger the mod and don't apply any airflow... yeah you can scorch the cotton on any temp setting. The new nano rocks.
The old nano is basically unusable on my VT. It either reads no atomizer or throws a totally inaccurate reading, reverts to vw mode when it reads too high of a resistance in ni or to mode, then reads no Atty or gets that microsecond of good connection and reads atomizer low and shuts off. Oh well, I gave that nano different colored o rings and it only gets kanthal for the 50 watt istick it plays nice with.
If you are having trouble, definitely check your positive pins and see that they are compatible with your atomizers being used if the spring loaded pin isn't. My new subtank plus works just as well as my new nano and is so much better than the E1M tank.
Moving along.
I haven't been able to make any ni or ti coils for my mxv4 yet but I have been experimenting with different kanthal builds. I'd say 24 AWG is the beefiest wire this has the juice to fire with any reasonable ramp up time. I've had a lot better results using 30 AWG.
In vw mode it seems to fire a little harder in stealth mode since it isn't lighting up the screen; but this could be a placebo.
I'm getting an average of 1400 seconds of vape time per battery charge. I'll see how that changes as I switch entirely to vt mode to see how the claims of decreased juice consumption hold up, if it is hitting below 20 watts a lot of the time under temp protection it should conserve battery as well as vaporize less juice from less excessive heat.
Edit: holy hell I wrote a crushing block of text.
This is what happens when I read an entire 128 page thread and withhold commenting.
So I've had my evic for a week and it works great with vw mode but I'm having issues trying to get nickel to work with my lemo 2.
I wrapped a 0.13 coil and locked it at room temp and sometimes it works ok but most of the time, no matter the temp between 420-600 I get basically no vapor or heat at any wattage setting.
Maybe it's the lemo not wicking correctly or maybe my coils aren't spaced properly? I'm not sure what I should do...
I wrapped a 0.13 coil and locked it at room temp and sometimes it works ok but most of the time, no matter the temp between 420-600 I get basically no vapor or heat at any wattage setting.
Maybe it's the lemo not wicking correctly or maybe my coils aren't spaced properly? I'm not sure what I should do...
Sounds like a wicking problem. Temp and ohms seem OK. I usually hit 0.13-0.11 using 28 ga ni200 and a 3mm mandrel. Need to look in the mirror and see what the display says. Temp protection is normal at a periodic rate while drawing on the atty and limited airflow. If it stays in TP mode then it thinks it is too hot and cutting power constantly.
As for spacing... As long as your coil is spaced it should be fine. There really is no rule about it, just as long as the coils don't touch each other.
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