Joyetech Evic VT 60 Watt

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JeremyR

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Having yet another issue with my VT can not get warm vape anymore with either TI or NI coil
tried new coils & does not help here are my specs evic VT cool black firmware 1.18 TC mode Ni
temp 570F (Luke warm) @ 60W atomizer ohms fluctuates from 2.2 -2.7 currently it reads 2.3 on new coil.
Unit is a week & a 1/2 old also running the ego One Mega tank this just started a a few days ago that I noticed I had to bump up the heat a couple times a day now at the 570F mark & pretty sure at some point it wont be warm at all
I do get a good vapor cloud but it is just cold
when I inhale it reads 336F then goes into protection mode wattage peaks at 29W then drops to 23W

Ahh there's so many things that can go wrong get when one starts tc...

#1- there's no way the mega can take 60w.

#2- if you overpower the coil you will go into temp protect Instantly which turns the power down = weak vape

#3 - try it at 30w, I get best results at a similar wattage I would run similar size coil without TC. The more over you regular wattage you go the stronger draw you will need to keep the coil from reaching tp too soon.

#4 - any issue with coil or wicking will give problems and premature tp. There's a lot of things that can go wrong on this side.

#5 - Don't let people make you think the evic is bad. It works fine.. They may say oh you need DNA.. . Thats like comparing a Mustang to a Porsche. Sure the porsche is better but the Mustang still goes from A to B and it's not too shabby and inexpensive.
 
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JeremyR

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Ok, it does sound flooded badly. Somethings going on with the mega. An rba would be better and give you something to see and a solid connection

If you switch to vw mode you can see the current resistance of the Coyle the mods power is controlled by the resistance so it's important to make sure you have the base resistance correct with a cold Coyle

you may want to confirm the res.. take the attyd off, power off, power on hit the fire button scroll down to the resistance lock screw a dead cold Coil on(cool for 15min) and lock the resistance , unscrew the atty, switch to wattage mode screw the atty back on and check the resistance reading without firing it it should read the same resistance that you locked in as long as you never actually fired the coil yet, otherwise your coil is jumping

Your coil could easily be jumping resistance from weak grometed connections on the mega.

Okay hope this helps some
 
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cigatron

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yeah a lot of juice is coming out when I blow into it heading to my B&M after work for a new atty & see how that goes before I do anything else I do love the eVic when it was performing correctly just has not been a good begining to Vaping

Hang in there bro. Lots of knowledgeable peeps here to help you get over.
 
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cigatron

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Yes it appears to be the atomizer and not the mod.

Isn't it almost always? At least that's what I've seen so far. I've heard hundreds of complaints about poor performance using tc but only about a handful of evics that have malfunctioned. Joyetech builds a top quality mod imo.
 

f1vefour

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Isn't it almost always? At least that's what I've seen so far. I've heard hundreds of complaints about poor performance using tc but only about a handful of evics that have malfunctioned. Joyetech builds a top quality mod imo.

It is almost always the atomizer from my readings.
 

cigatron

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well yet another problem with my VT
selector switch not working smoothly it is chunky feeling (binding up) does anyone know if the selector switch can be removed to maybe clean it not sure if debris got in it or if there is a burr in the metal

That leaky tank you had dumped juice under the switch. That happens sometimes. I clean under the switch by dabbing alcohol around the switch first, then slide a thin sheet of paper back and forth under the switch. That works ok but one of my three evics is still a little sticky. I may have to try disassembling it for a more thorough cleaning. If I can get it apart I'll use contact cleaner to get things right again.
 
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cigatron

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Nope just tore it apart as I tried it again after cleaning it it didn't feel sticky it felt more like rubbing & it is it is wearing the circuit board

How bad is it wearing the circuit board trace? Is it wearing the trace as it should eg. the full width of the switch tab, or is it scratching a narrower area of the trace? If it is scratching a narrow area of the circuit board trace the switch tab probably has a burr on it. Removing a burr would be easy by sliding a piece of 300 grit (or finer) sandpaper between the circuit board and switch tab and then turning the switch back and forth to sand off the burr.

Also, most electrical contact cleaners have a lubricant in them that is left behind after the carrier evaporates. You might try that.
 
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atroph

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I wanted to report that my fire button has lost its "clicky-ness". It still works just fine but doesn't have that tactile feedback that I am used to.

I though that the button may have had some juice get inside it so I took the top off to inspect it. Looking at the board and all inside parts there were no indications of juice contaminants so I presume that the internal "click spring mechanism" has failed inside the button.

I also had the sticky feeling jog dial. I put a few drops of alcohol around the dial and then slipped a paper towel under the dial and that fixed it for me.
 
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