Now i'm jealous..I wanted a black K101, but they were not available from my retailer...so I got a blue one. I stripped the anodize off today (with oven cleaner) and repainted with black high-temp paint...looks much better now 
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Nice Thraizer!
The brass sets it off nicely!
I might have to try that on mine.
I picked mine up for my wife but she jacked my Caravela clone so I kept the k100 as a backup.
The brass sets it off nicely!
I might have to try that on mine.
I picked mine up for my wife but she jacked my Caravela clone so I kept the k100 as a backup.
I actually dropped it and hit the ground and of course I was using a small rda at the time and nicked the chrome plating at the top. Couldn't live with the scar lol! so I sanded the chrome plating off. Looks good when its polished up and also looks good when patina sets in after a while. Easiest way to take the chrome plating off is to screw a used cartomizer on the connection, screw it on a drill press or drill with the body attached, and sand a way.
Hi, I'm thinking of sanding my k100 too, but I'm wondering if I can also sand my protank II? Anzone tried that?
Yep.
Protanks are brass with copper- then chrome plate. They aren't stainless.
So yes you can sand and polish them.
Go slow and be careful.
I noticed some discoloeation at the tip of my pt1 and i thought so. Woukdn't mess with the pt1 though - one can't removw the pyrex and i sqw some pics of sanded pt1s with scratched pyrex. I was thinking about my pt2 - i can safely remove the pyrex glass so sanding it will be easy. Thanks!
or you can wrap masking tape around the pyrex to protect it...but you'll want to wash your parts when you are done sanding anyway...
We use a dremel and a buffing wheel, with red jewelers rouge.
Use tape over the glass.
You should not be doing anything remotely hard enough to chip the glass.
My wife stripped both PT I and II. They are same.
By the way:
Pyrex is a brand, not a type of glass.
No protank or attys actually has "Pyrex" brand glass on it.
(Most Pyrex brand products are not Borosilicate -since the late '70s)
The glass on the PT tank is Borosilicate glass ( also called lab glass).
Borosilicate is stronger, and has a higher resistance to thermal shock.
What grit sand paper did you use for the mod and contacts. I am waiting on my k100+ and got it in silver since the other color choices I didn't care for. But that brass oh man. Looks good polished or not. Anyways what grit sand paper and what did you use to polish it
I don't care to sand the contacts but has anyone sanded the body. I like that copper look. If so what grit sand paper. Also do I have to use it with the colored sleeve. I hate how that sleeve looks lol. Maybe if mine won't come off I'll sand it too
Spring on the left is the stock K100 spring, spring on the middle is my upgraded Silver-Coated Beryllium Copper spring and sanded pin to expose the brass. It's my work mod and its a beast!
Thraizer, can you tell me where you got the new spring?
That's looking sick man. I deff need a new spring on mine. And does sanding the contacts really help. I didn't care at first for it but I don't like to sub ohm and I'm so used to jacking my voltage or wattage up lol
I got a k101 today that has k100+ on the side of it. It has what i think you guys are calling the flat sides. I got an igow with it and it is really nice. I heard about it might be brass underneath on the contacts...does that make it vape better if you sand it down? anyone taken the sleeve off their k101?
i really just wanna get the most out of this mod
i really just wanna get the most out of this mod
The K101 was my first mech. I still use it once in a while, but hate the telescoping tube that gets easily moved up or down. If loosened, it won't fire but if it tightens it will make contact and posibly ruin your battery, even if it doesn't explode.
A brief pictorial of my Kamry K100 evolution :
Two years old at this stage, the chrome had started to seriously wear on the inner telescoping tube and the locking ring:
So, after some fine sandpaper and steel wool treatment :
End of part 1
Two years old at this stage, the chrome had started to seriously wear on the inner telescoping tube and the locking ring:
So, after some fine sandpaper and steel wool treatment :
End of part 1
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A brief pictorial of my Kamry K100 evolution ( part 2 ) :
So, still a bit curious, i one day decided to see what lurks under that ribbed bonnet :
Sidenote : My K100 actually appears to be a clone of a clone...lol... i also have aside a genuine blueK100 which i bought at a later date, and wanted as a backup, cause i was so happy with this first one, and have not as yet use, cause this thing just refuses to break or malfunction in any way ...the model pictured is the one with the threaded top cap which screws off, rather then needing to hit it loose, and also a screw type lower base contact ... the locking ring appears to be copper, while the main telescoping bodies are brass ..needless to say, all contacts have been sanded down, including the top cap 510 connection
So, still a bit curious, i one day decided to see what lurks under that ribbed bonnet :
Sidenote : My K100 actually appears to be a clone of a clone...lol... i also have aside a genuine blueK100 which i bought at a later date, and wanted as a backup, cause i was so happy with this first one, and have not as yet use, cause this thing just refuses to break or malfunction in any way ...the model pictured is the one with the threaded top cap which screws off, rather then needing to hit it loose, and also a screw type lower base contact ... the locking ring appears to be copper, while the main telescoping bodies are brass ..needless to say, all contacts have been sanded down, including the top cap 510 connection
I got a k101 last Saturday. 10/4 I love it. I'm thinking about sanding the sleeve. Or removing it completely. Any one sanded the sleeve on the k101?
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