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How did you sand the outside of your k100? I am interested in doing this. What grit sandpaper did you use if you don't mind me asking. Thanks!!
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I've posted this one in another spot but I figured I would share it again. K100 in 18500 mode, topped with an IGO-4W. It's running a dual micro coil setup that comes out to .75 ohms. And yes I have done the math, I am well within my amp limits. This thing is a monster since I sanded down my contacts to expose the brass underneath. Enjoy.
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Well, I solved this problem by wrapping all my four knocked up 18350s with duct tape leaving exposed only the nipple and a small spot in the center of the negative end. And yes, flipping the battery is also a solution, but no need to with my duct tape method. Also, the batteries now fit the tube tightly and don't wobble. Try that, it's an added layer of short circuit protection for batteries with partially stripped insulation.
Hey
So my first mech was a k101 and it's been pretty much shelved for a while now. I'm thinking about modding it but I had a few questions before I go ahead:
- My firing button throw is INSANELY short with an 18650 battery. Like, if you breathe on it, the switch will fire. It operates just fine with an 18350. If I un tighten the mod a bit it works fine, but the mod wobbles a lot.
Would putting a spacer in or putting a thicker spring insulator in the switch fix this problem? What can I do about this?
- Is the switch assembly also chromed brass or is it ss/aluminum? Can I sand this down to brass?
- If I'm sanding the chroming off of my entire mod should I also remove it from the threads & what is the best way to go about doing this without damaging them?
So my first mech was a k101 and it's been pretty much shelved for a while now. I'm thinking about modding it but I had a few questions before I go ahead:
- My firing button throw is INSANELY short with an 18650 battery. Like, if you breathe on it, the switch will fire. It operates just fine with an 18350. If I un tighten the mod a bit it works fine, but the mod wobbles a lot.
Would putting a spacer in or putting a thicker spring insulator in the switch fix this problem? What can I do about this?
- Is the switch assembly also chromed brass or is it ss/aluminum? Can I sand this down to brass?
- If I'm sanding the chroming off of my entire mod should I also remove it from the threads & what is the best way to go about doing this without damaging them?
This mod doesn't have a lot of precision in the threads, so you will always have a bit of wobble. I set my switch action by spinning the lock half-way, press and hold the switch, then screwing the tube in until it fires. This sets the switch action to about 1.5-2 mm.
The entire mod is chromed brass. I've sanded off the chrome on the switch shaft, tip, and inner shaft bore, but not the button. Also sanded the inner battery contact (a bit of sandpaper on the end of a pencil works well). I also lubed electrical contact areas (threads and switch shaft) with Noalox. For appearance, I removed the chrome from the top cap as well.
I wouldn't touch the threads, you'll only make it wobble more.
The entire mod is chromed brass. I've sanded off the chrome on the switch shaft, tip, and inner shaft bore, but not the button. Also sanded the inner battery contact (a bit of sandpaper on the end of a pencil works well). I also lubed electrical contact areas (threads and switch shaft) with Noalox. For appearance, I removed the chrome from the top cap as well.
I wouldn't touch the threads, you'll only make it wobble more.
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I think the wobble could be fixed by double-shrinkwrapping my batteries. The mod started wobbling a lot more when I re-wrapped my batteries and I think the new wrap is thinner.
when I do this it creates a lot of pressure of the battery against the fire pin, leaving a visible mark/dent in the neg end of my battery. that scares me away from this otherwise nice method of reducing the throw of the fire button. Anyone want to reassure me that this is safe?
Finished sanding my k101 down to the brass, for an iron man color scheme. The copper layer took forever to get through. I'm going to see how it tarnishes, then I might change the finish, but I left it brushed w/ steel wool for now. I changed the shape of the lock ring slightly, I find it easier to grip, and I sanded off a lot of the knurling because I don't like it. I also sanded the contacts down to brass and fixed my firing button throw issues.
Now I just have two things left to do: find an atomizer that looks decent on the k101, and figure out how to fix the hot button issues I occasionally get.
What width atty should I be looking for? 17mm? 19mm? What rda/rba's would look good on my brass k101?
Now I just have two things left to do: find an atomizer that looks decent on the k101, and figure out how to fix the hot button issues I occasionally get.
What width atty should I be looking for? 17mm? 19mm? What rda/rba's would look good on my brass k101?
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I sanded the firing button area's threads down to brass (some copper plating is still showing, I didn't want to sand TOO MUCH) but I left the chrome plating on the telescoping section. I may do something about it in the future. Right now I'm considering taking the red sleeve off and sanding that area to brass too but I'm not sure if I should do that or keep the 2tone look. My k101 isn't one of the ones where the red section isn't easily removable.
Im using the battery protection chip am I gonna be okay to run my nimbus on this?
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Depends on what ohm your coil is. The provided protection chip activates at a 7 amp draw. Under "normal" vaping loads, you will only hit that if you short your coil.
For example: Fresh battery at 4.2 volts, and a 1.8ohm coil, will vape at 9.8 watts and a 2.33amp load. This is well under the fuse activation. (but your battery draw will be high, use good batteries!)
fresh battery at 4.2volts, 0.8 coil (sub-ohm), will vape at 22 watts with a 5.25amp load. Not enough to activate the fuse, but seriously high, need premium batteries.Sub Ohming on a mechanical mod is NOT recommended!
fresh battery at 4.2 volts, .6 ohm (sub ohm), will vape at 29.4 watts with a 7 amp load, which SHOULD activate the fuse, and give you enough time to pull the battery before it self-destructs. Sub Ohming on a mechanical mod is NOT recommended!
Check your coil resistances, do your research, and use good batteries!
For example: Fresh battery at 4.2 volts, and a 1.8ohm coil, will vape at 9.8 watts and a 2.33amp load. This is well under the fuse activation. (but your battery draw will be high, use good batteries!)
fresh battery at 4.2volts, 0.8 coil (sub-ohm), will vape at 22 watts with a 5.25amp load. Not enough to activate the fuse, but seriously high, need premium batteries.Sub Ohming on a mechanical mod is NOT recommended!
fresh battery at 4.2 volts, .6 ohm (sub ohm), will vape at 29.4 watts with a 7 amp load, which SHOULD activate the fuse, and give you enough time to pull the battery before it self-destructs. Sub Ohming on a mechanical mod is NOT recommended!
Check your coil resistances, do your research, and use good batteries!
I like mine, got it impulse buy. So far no issues and the Kamry batteries seem ok, tho I'm def going to get Panasonic 350 batts. I have two Panasonic 18650 ones already.
Wow.
Totally incorrect.
You obviously didn't do any research at all.
You can ONLY sub ohm vape on mechanicals.
VV/VW adjustable mods have protection circuitry that won't fire sub ohm coils.
Know the limits of your battery and brush up on ohms law
Sub ohm vaping is perfectly safe, it just requires the vaper to pay attention and use their brain.
Not the first time I was wrong, and won't be the last.
I was thinking about the battery draw, as unless the user is very aware of what their batteries can handle, there is a risk.
My statement should have read:
Sun Ohm vaping should only be attempted if you know your equipment limitations and risks.
BTW, please try being a little less insulting when you correct someone...I'm not ignorant, I simply misspoke myself.
I was thinking about the battery draw, as unless the user is very aware of what their batteries can handle, there is a risk.
My statement should have read:
Sun Ohm vaping should only be attempted if you know your equipment limitations and risks.
BTW, please try being a little less insulting when you correct someone...I'm not ignorant, I simply misspoke myself.
You are right and I apologize.
I did not mean to insult.
I see lots of enthusiastic new Vaper's give really wrong advice a lot on these boards and I got overly excited when correcting your post.
Sub ohm vaping is perfectly safe.
I know the forums will make a person think a .5 coil wil blow their face off and it's just not the case.
There are definite risks involved, but there is also a vet safe way to sub ohm vape.
Mechs are he only way to do it.
I have a simple k100 with a cheap $9 Phoenix dual coil RDA.
Built at .65 ohms.
With a 30amp Sony imr 18650 battery I can blow clouds like a steam engine safely.
Only use IMR high drain batteries rated over 10amps, and know your build ( ohms law) and you will be fine.
Flavor on a properly built sub ohm dripper with cotton wick is incredible.
A DMM or digital multimeter is a must! and of course for those that wants to go into the realm of sub Ω vaping, MUST read this http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rebuildable-atomizer-systems/465483-sub-ohm-vaping-discussion-safety-battery-info-warnings.html
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