Mine also fires if overtightened. This is one of the reasons I don't use my K100 anymore, the switch is pretty lame. The spring and plastic washer assembly can be compressed below the firing contact even when locked, so the K100 will be firing continuously unless you back out the assembly.
- Status
i really love mine but yea when i first got it it would fire on its own especially in 18350 mode. i realized, for me at least, this was solved by just being sure to throw the lock on before telescoping it down and making sure the bottom cap was tight first. what was happening was when i was telescoping it down it was fitting for however my bottom cap was, and when i'd throw the reverse threaded lock on after, it would then be tightening the cap on the bottom even more. since it was already fitted for how it was before this tightening, it would just make it fire.
and also just not overtightening it.
The K100 is my only mod that fires when overtightened. My EA Clone/Sentinel M16/Magneto/Sigelei 8W/Private V2 all can be tightened down and no auto firing situation will happen. All of those are completely insulated from the firing pin and no matter how tight your assembly is the firing circuit remains open.
The M16/Sigelei 8W/Private V2 all have a delrin/plastic insulator to prevent the battery from contacting the firing pin when tightened.
The EA Clone has a physical separation between the side firing pin and bottom post.
The Magneto has a physical separation created by the magnet forces, and the switch assembly is completely isolated from the battery itself.
The M16/Sigelei 8W/Private V2 all have a delrin/plastic insulator to prevent the battery from contacting the firing pin when tightened.
The EA Clone has a physical separation between the side firing pin and bottom post.
The Magneto has a physical separation created by the magnet forces, and the switch assembly is completely isolated from the battery itself.
I'm having a problem with my K100 after I dropped the bottom button cap and the spring popped out. It now fires on its own but I'm not sure if that's because I didn't put the spring all the way down or if I'm having the same issues as the posts above. Can someone look at my photos and see if my spring is in the right place? I pushed it as far down as I could but it still sticks up past the edge.
Last edited:
You are missing the white plastic insulating washer. You are making a continuos connection with the spring which is why it's always firing. Either find the plastic washer, or go to Home Depot and bring your mod. Find a plastic washer that fits inside the cap that prevents the mod from firing when tightened, but still allows the switch to work, kinda ghetto but will work in a pinch.
Last edited:
Thanks djslik. I'll check out Home Depot since I have no idea where the washer went.
I love the look of mine in 18350 mode with the matching drip shield (although, functionally, it doesn't do much) and drip tip that I find myself using it exclusively with long barrel dripping attys. I'm too cheap for an HH357 so I get the ones from kidneypuncher.com. I don't have much to compare them to, but they (these dripping attys) seem to work darn good and last for-freakin'-ever with regular rinsing and a quick dry burn.
My friend got a k100 recently and it says k100+. Can anyone tell me if there are any notable difference between the two?
Yup, the 100 has horizontal ribbing, the 100+ (101) has flats 
BTW, I JUST GOT MT K101 TODAY!!! WHOOOT! Discount Vapors ROCKS.
No issues yet, still figuring it out. 18350, with Smokteck Kick clone (set to 7w), currently using 2.2 ohm ProTank II (moving to 1.8 ohms in the near future), and the included fuse.
Cleaned the tubes and contacts with alcohol, have not lubed the threads yet, nor sanded the firing pin.
any other tips and tricks I should be looking for?
BTW, I JUST GOT MT K101 TODAY!!! WHOOOT! Discount Vapors ROCKS.
No issues yet, still figuring it out. 18350, with Smokteck Kick clone (set to 7w), currently using 2.2 ohm ProTank II (moving to 1.8 ohms in the near future), and the included fuse.
Cleaned the tubes and contacts with alcohol, have not lubed the threads yet, nor sanded the firing pin.
any other tips and tricks I should be looking for?
Yup, the 100 has horizontal ribbing, the 100+ (101) has flats
BTW, I JUST GOT MT K101 TODAY!!! WHOOOT! Discount Vapors ROCKS.
No issues yet, still figuring it out. 18350, with Smokteck Kick clone (set to 7w), currently using 2.2 ohm ProTank II (moving to 1.8 ohms in the near future), and the included fuse.
Cleaned the tubes and contacts with alcohol, have not lubed the threads yet, nor sanded the firing pin.
any other tips and tricks I should be looking for?
What no way? I could have sworn it was ribbed k100 style and not k101 style when i saw it....
AFAIK, They are mechanically identical, the only difference being the appearance of the outer tube. I ordered a K101, and its marked K100+, with the four flats. Doesn't matter to me, as long as it works!
got a sony 30 amp 18650 batt.. very nice batt for all builds sub ohm and higher u will definitely see and feel the difference
now im saving up for a kick2 when i need to carry k100 out and about to use tanks on it like protank2 or cartomizer tanks
The K100+ was the step between K100 and K101. 101 has flat sides. Some still say K100+ on the inside tube, but body style dictates the model. The main difference between K100 and K100+ as far as I know is a slightly different 510/ego connector. Another factor is if it truly is a Kamry. MANY clones out there of K100. Kamry's website begs us to not buy K100's/K101's from ole Fasttech...
So if my K101 is marked K100+, how do I tell of its genuine Kamry? Off to find Kamry's website....
I just upgraded from an eGo penstyle to a K100. I am a bit confused. Can I use tanks with this mod? All they showed me at the store was how to change coils and how drip on coil, but I can't believe there isn't a better way than dripping every 7-10 hits. Can I put a tank on this? Also, they didn't give me a charger. Do I need one or are the batteries just replaceable? Sorry for the noob questions. this is my first mech mod and I would love to mod it as much as possible.
yes u can put almost anything on top of k100 using a 510 thread
and will work with a kick inside it for regulated vape in watts
as for charger since u have to buy one , at minimum try get i2 or i4 intellicharger by Nitecore $18 amazon.com
as for batt. imr AW 18350 18500 18650 and sony 30amp 18650 is what i use
and will work with a kick inside it for regulated vape in watts
as for charger since u have to buy one , at minimum try get i2 or i4 intellicharger by Nitecore $18 amazon.com
as for batt. imr AW 18350 18500 18650 and sony 30amp 18650 is what i use
Efest imr also are nice, but has a lower amp limit... for sub ohm use make sure u have a high ampere output rating on your batt...
- Status
Similar threads
