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I'm wondering what the difference is on the Kanthal wire between the A1 and the A?
Is one better than the other? I think most use the A1 32/30, but is the A rated ok to use?
Thx
Is one better than the other? I think most use the A1 32/30, but is the A rated ok to use?
Thx
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GTUS+Provari. Modded the gtus a bit by boring out the air hole to 1/16", boring out the wick hole to 3/32" so it'll fit a fatter wick, and beveling the wick hole so wicks feed easier into it. Also used the cigarette paper trick for the first time and had great results. Vapor speaks for itself, flavor is solid (though this wick is brand new, so it's only going to get better), and th is fine considering how long it takes the vapor to get from the coil to your mouth. I'd say with a little bit of tweaking, it should produce the most vapor out of all of my genesis atties, but the mini hf still has it beat for th by a longshot. Next mods I'm going to make to it are giving it a full polish, opening up the 4 holes that the vapor goes through in the vapor chamber (only by a tiny bit though), and possibly opening up the air hole to 5/64". Wicks like a dream with the fat wick, wouldn't trade it for an insulated, skinny wick anytime soon.
I asked Wesley (coinswiesiek) the seller I buy Kanthal from on Ebay the difference between the difference between A1 n A Kanthal wire, This is what His/Her responce was;
Hi.A and A-1 are very similar wires .There is slight difference of alloys and A-1 has slightly higher resistance.They are both better than Kanthal D
Didn't know if anyone was intersted. But I thought I;d post it anyway.
I dropped off the face of the earth for a bit. For those of you who were curious, my idea is only half working, I will try to get some pics up. I think I might have to sell/trade the katana though, I just can't get it working consistently 
I am sorry to hear that.. I feel like sometimes it takes more messing with to really get a good coil/mesh setup going well. But once you get it rolling it is perfect for a long time. I would say if you feel you are close and the top and the bottom coils are lighting up you need to turn and burn to get a good oxidation set and then throw the cap on and do short vapes until it sets up good. I have gotten regular results from checking these things to make sure its good before break in period.. make sure the wick isn't too thick and promotes good capulary action. Make sure when I am moving the coils on a wick to not damage the oxi on the wick if I do because it happens I turn an burn a bit to help re-establish a good oxidation. check and move when necessary the coils to fix any hotspots. If I still get hotspots on the top and bottom coil a turn and burn and short vapes when the cap is on helps setup and break in. I have become very familiar with the flavor hints. Meaning the flavor or smell can often give insight or hints as to what is going wrong a strong burning usually is hotspot strong metallic smell or flavor or weak smell often is coil needs to be adjusted.. super onpoint smell means it just needs to be broke in.
For those of you out there still finding that you have issues with oxidation and getting coils to glow evenly, I came across this video here and it is absolutely brilliant. This is something Scubabatdan came up with and Scott Bonner made a video for. This is one of those tricks that you are going to wonder why you didn't think of it. It seems too simple and works perfectly.
Just cause.... Where credit is due..
Dan, didn't come up with this, alot of us have been doing this for a long time.
This was a tip from Raidy over a year agao on his forum.
Just had to put that out there..
With all due respect for Dan of course.
Dan, didn't come up with this, alot of us have been doing this for a long time.
This was a tip from Raidy over a year agao on his forum.
Just had to put that out there..
With all due respect for Dan of course.
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Does that method seem to make a big difference? I get the theory behind it, makes sense.
I haven't had too much problem with hot spots, no popped coils, not much problem, but if it makes a better coil from the get-go, I may try it.
I haven't had too much problem with hot spots, no popped coils, not much problem, but if it makes a better coil from the get-go, I may try it.
It doesn't make it better. It makes it easier for the people that can't get the oxidation process down.
witch is usually them wrapping the coil to tight and cutting into the mesh..
By doing this, they'll eliminate 70% of their problems.
witch is usually them wrapping the coil to tight and cutting into the mesh..
By doing this, they'll eliminate 70% of their problems.
Ahhhh, I had never seen that trick before. I always just wrap wire over mesh and ever have any problems
I lust figured this might help someone
I started this thread for those interested. I hope people post in it.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...309261-wick-coil-tips-tricks.html#post6491951
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...309261-wick-coil-tips-tricks.html#post6491951
I actually gave Scott's video instructions a shot, it worked.great, but my Katana just doesn't feed at all unless it is completely inverted, then it leaks like crazy.
The only hotspots I get now are where the coil is screwed into the posts. I have no idea how to eliminate them besides moving them around arbitrarily
The only hotspots I get now are where the coil is screwed into the posts. I have no idea how to eliminate them besides moving them around arbitrarily
a couple of things. First where the bottom screw is attached to the coil, are you angling it up at a angle so that it is coming off the base?
Then on the last wrap at the top are you attaching to that screw in the opposite direction that the coil was wrapped or in the same direction? I find that if I do not go in the opposite direction, sometimes there is not enough tension of that last wrap.
It sounds like there is a pressure issue going on that is keeping the juice inside. Are you using it with the fill hole screw in there or out. If in, try it without it in there. I have not done this, but you may want to consider drilling the fill hole to eliminate the vacuum effect.
This is actually sounding like the wick is clogged up and in need of a cleaning.
Fire the katana till the coil and wick are glowing red hot then while it's still hot run it under cold water. Dry and repeat a couple of times.
Then tilt it and fire till the juice starts feeding. Put the cap on and start vaping. It should be 100% better after this.
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Finally got some Kanthel 30 gage wire and all I can so is WOW..... Lovin it. What a difference. Nice warm throat hit and plumes of vapor. I don't think I could go back to the 32A after this.....
4 wraps around the coil....
4 wraps around the coil....
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