Thanks.I thought their might be 3 versions.But I can see now I was wrong.My 2 Katanas are leaveing Florida Tuesday or Wed to come to me in the island so I wanted to get ready for any mod I might have to make.Thanks for the info BluSwatch
Katana by POC ~ Show and Tell :)
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Does anyone have a video on how to rotate the white plastic, so that the air hole lines up with the wick? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Thanks
Mainly the thread count and the design was refined a bit more. mostly its the same mechanically.
lorderos, it was easier than I thought it would be .... I was sweating a bit though putting the top back on. I remember you saying to be careful of the posts.
Yes, you just need to make sure you get them on nice and straight. The short post could possibly come loose from it's seal and require repairs if you are not careful. Most people will not have an issue, but there is always the chance.
The best way to put it all back together is to have a battery in the katana and just lock the switch. The battery in the tube will support the post and keep it from breaking loose.
Good deal, most of the V2 Katanas need to have this done. As you can see it is not too hard to do at all
what exactly does "in front of the wick" mean when the wick is dead center in the cap?
You were right Island. There were 3 runs total. There are not alot of differences between them.
The V1 connector in the top cap is not mechanically coupled to the positive post as it is in V2 and V3, but I have never had any issues with the V1.
All the V1 Katanas had the air inlet hole lined up properly. In V2 it was turned 180 degrees. Though it should not have made a difference, in use it did make a big difference so V3 had the air hole lined back up to the front of the wick again.
The threading in the top cap of the V2 and V3 is much finer than in the V1.
The V1 top cap is not polished, the other runs have the top cap polished.
The switch in V2 and V3 are identical and an improvement to the V1, but truth be told, the V1 switch is smoother. The V2 and V3 switch also have room in them to allow using magnets in them instead of the stock spring. The V1 could use magnets but everything I tried is too thick to allow enough magnets in there to make the switch strong enough to stand without activating the mod.
The tank cover threads are also a bit wider in the V3 & V2 than they are in the V1.
Had the pleasure of meeting up with my buddy Armen at the Los Angeles Vapers club vape meet this weekend! He set me up with HEAPS of free juice and mesh (both 400 and 325)!! The only way he'd let me reciprocate his incredible generosity was helping him to get his Katana v2 up and running, which I'm happy to say, now is working flawlessly! I also got my insanely modified scubagen v3 in the mail on saturday, which I'm struggling to get working how I want it to...might just be the new 325 wick I installed, but there's a strong possibility that i'm just an idiot who can't figure out why I'm getting hot spots by the + post!! I have it running ok now, but if I have any more issues and/or the flavor doesn't improve, I'll throw up some pics and see what everyone has to say about it.
Hey rwechsler, I totally forgot about the iAtty mesh pics I promised. I'll get those up soon
For the Scubagen v3, the hotspot by the + and or - poles are normal at first because of the length of wire in open air. these can be tamed by putting a drop of juice on them and firing repeatedly till enough carbon is formed over the kanthal to prevent the heat buildup there. If you tweak the mesh just a little bit to get it closer to the poles it eliminates this. If you are doing the DC thing with it then it is alot harder to just tweak the tolerances down, but the building the carbon deposits on the kanthal will still work.
The coils might actually just get too hot to form the carbon with juice (especially if it's a DC), in which case you may just need to put it there with a bic... not the most elegant solution, but it works
I have a scubagen v3 and it works great but it's just so big I rarely use it
Mine isn't your average scubagen v3
It's been shortened to house a 5ml tank, the wick holes have been straightened, a second grounded post was added to run 2 coils, the airflow hole was bored out to 5/64", and the nasty clear plastic top cap was replaced with a beautifully polished SS cap to match the GGTS that it's now sitting on. Thank you Urquidezj! Ill post some pics in a few minutes!
It's been shortened to house a 5ml tank, the wick holes have been straightened, a second grounded post was added to run 2 coils, the airflow hole was bored out to 5/64", and the nasty clear plastic top cap was replaced with a beautifully polished SS cap to match the GGTS that it's now sitting on. Thank you Urquidezj! Ill post some pics in a few minutes!
And something else that Urq custom made for me based on the schematics I drew up for him. Not genesis related, just thought I'd throw up a pic to show off xD
:Edit: ...., don't know why they're all flipped 90 degrees!
Due to EXIF data being set to rotate them. If you edit them in a program like IrfanView so they have the correct orientation, and save, you should be all set. My pictures do the same thing. Sometimes I'm just too lazy to edit them.
This is the EXIF for the last picture.
See the last line? That's why.
Edit: Also, just because I feel like sharing -- another reason why GPS Tagging (Or Geotagging) should always be disabled when you take pictures you're going to post online. If GPS Tagging is enabled, it will be included in the EXIF data of the picture and whoever views the picture has access to it.
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Thanks Steve! And just wait until you see what's going on inside of it! It was hand made specifically to be used on the ss tb at HV, I think it turned out really well!
Thanks for the info Lorderos.Just a few more days and I will have my Katanas.
To those of you out there who want to move the placement of the hole in the top cap so that it is adjusted properly with the inlet in front of the wick, here is the best way to do it. If you attempt this just be very careful that the electrodes bo back into the holes properly when you re-assemble the Katana. Also, be sure that the Katana is completely assembled with a battery in it and the lock ring engaged. This will prevent you from damaging the short electrode during the re-assembly process. Trust me on this one...
1. Remove the top cap, the electrode screws and the coil and wick. Drain the tank completely while you're here.
2. Replace the top cap so you have something to grip and pull the top of the tank off. It may be a little bit tight so you may have to wiggle it gently to get it to come off. Just be careful as the o-ring reaches the top of the tank, it comes right off at this point and you don't want to smash something as your hand swings around at full speed because you kept puling hard as the top was about to release
3. With the top cap still screwed on, get a fine pointed needle nosed pliers and stick each of the jaws into one of the electrode holes in the top cap from the bottom and simply spin the nylon piece until you see that the air inlet hole pointing straight at the wick hole. The electrode holes should be behind the wick hole so the order front to back will be (1) air inlet hole, (2) wick hole, (3) electrode holes. They should form a "Y" at this point if you look at it from the bottom of the tank top with the air inlet hole facing you.
4. Put some juice on the o-ring from the top cap and a little bit in the electrode holes to help things go back together smoothly.
5. Put it back together now by pushing the tall electrode into it's hole (it should not have needed to be removed from the Katana at any point and should go back on pretty easily without alot of force). As it reaches where the short electrode is, spin it so it lines up and carefully continue to push the tank cover back into place. As the o-ring starts to touch the tank, make sure that it is lined up well and going in evenly to prevent the o-ring from getting pinched.
6. Now just put the wick and coil back in place, fil with juice and enjoy.
I had been seeing a few methods of doing this and figured that I would post how I have been doing it since more people have been wanting to do this and following this procedure will almost completely eliminate any possibility of damaging your Katana in the process.
Happy modding
1. Remove the top cap, the electrode screws and the coil and wick. Drain the tank completely while you're here.
2. Replace the top cap so you have something to grip and pull the top of the tank off. It may be a little bit tight so you may have to wiggle it gently to get it to come off. Just be careful as the o-ring reaches the top of the tank, it comes right off at this point and you don't want to smash something as your hand swings around at full speed because you kept puling hard as the top was about to release
3. With the top cap still screwed on, get a fine pointed needle nosed pliers and stick each of the jaws into one of the electrode holes in the top cap from the bottom and simply spin the nylon piece until you see that the air inlet hole pointing straight at the wick hole. The electrode holes should be behind the wick hole so the order front to back will be (1) air inlet hole, (2) wick hole, (3) electrode holes. They should form a "Y" at this point if you look at it from the bottom of the tank top with the air inlet hole facing you.
4. Put some juice on the o-ring from the top cap and a little bit in the electrode holes to help things go back together smoothly.
5. Put it back together now by pushing the tall electrode into it's hole (it should not have needed to be removed from the Katana at any point and should go back on pretty easily without alot of force). As it reaches where the short electrode is, spin it so it lines up and carefully continue to push the tank cover back into place. As the o-ring starts to touch the tank, make sure that it is lined up well and going in evenly to prevent the o-ring from getting pinched.
6. Now just put the wick and coil back in place, fil with juice and enjoy.
I had been seeing a few methods of doing this and figured that I would post how I have been doing it since more people have been wanting to do this and following this procedure will almost completely eliminate any possibility of damaging your Katana in the process.
Happy modding
Lorderos, I put the wick hole lined up with the cap vent hole, with the fill hole a bit to the right .... I thought that was the way it should be. It seems to work fine though, and is close enough for me.
Thanks lorderos !
Now I am confident about the process, I will do it tonight.
Now I am confident about the process, I will do it tonight.
Lorderos, I put the wick hole lined up with the cap vent hole, with the fill hole a bit to the right .... I thought that was the way it should be. It seems to work fine though, and is close enough for me.
That is exactly how it should be
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