Kayfun lite plus black clone edition

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Tommy Aces

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So I've got an original KFL+ and R91 already (had a KFL that I gave to dad). I was getting ready to order another R91, only because I actually prefer the adjustable 510 and I like the side airflow control, but by the time I loaded my debit card, they were out of stock.

However, I saw the "Black Edition" KFL+ clone being talked about and it seems that the folks that have receiver them have pretty positive things to say. So I pulled the trigger and ordered one. Since I've got both the KFL+ and R91 already, I should be able to provide a pretty good comparison to the Black Clone.

Warning....rant incoming:

I actually also have a Tobeco KFL/R91 clone that I picked up last month with a $35 gift card compared to the original KFL+ and R91, it is a complete POS and basically unusable. I soaked and washed the ever loving crap out of it to be sure I removed any machining oils ect. The screws ARE NOT stainless, so I replaced them with backup R91 screws. The center pin cannot be removed. The airflow is very tight, even with the AFC screw removed, so the thing just leaks. And, the two parts of the upper build deck are not even close to being level either due to an insulator that is too thick or a deck piece that is too thick. This means that you have to lift the coil very high off the deck so the one lead doesn't short out. I believe that with some tinkering (I work in a small machine shop, so I've got the tools) I'll be able to make it a functioning device. But still, even at $35, it wasn't worth it.

With all that said, I'm actually not against clones. I have problems with when a device is counterfeit and sold as the original and I have problems when the devices don't work. At the same time, if these manufacturers want to keep people like me out of the clone market, then they need to be able to produce them at a pace that allows me to buy one when I want and not have to scour the internet, pay over retail, or order internationally if I don't want to.

So I'm hoping that the Black edition lives up what I've read about it. If not, at worst I end up with some spare parts. Regardless, I'll still end up buying 1 or 2 more legit KFL+ or R91, whenever the hell they're easily available in the US.

P.S. Has anyone confirmed that the screws on the Black Edition are all stainless?

So, I received my "Black Edition" clone yesterday. My order was placed on the 16th and it shipped the very next day. I haven't had a chance to build on it yet, but I did take it to bits so I could inspect and clean it. I'll rate certain aspects from 1 star to 5 stars (5 stars being equal to or better than the real KFL+ or R91)

First, as to the exterior finish on the atty; it's every bit as nice as my legit KFL+. It's a "brushed" finish, but appears to have been brushed using a slightly finer abrasive than the real one. Exterior Appearance: 5 stars

The threading on most of the device is quite exquisite. The only place it falls short is where the lower chimney threads to the deck. It's not that it's terribly crunchy or anything, but it isn't a smooth thread either. However, it threads down tight just fine. Threading: 3 & 1/2 Stars.

The parts are pretty much all of equal quality to both the KFL+/R91. The heads on the deck screws are slightly smaller than those on the KFL+, but appear to be the same as the R91. They should be much easier to work with than the ones that came with my Tobeco clone. The o-rings are also comparable in quality to the legit ones. They are also seem to be of higher quality than the ones that came with the Tobeco.

The adjustable 510 screw is basically the same as the R91's. However, unless it's screwed up all the way tight against the inner center pin, it spins freely, which could lead to losing contact or losing the screw. I remedied this by slipping one of the extra tiny o-rings from my R91 over it. The other strange bit is the upper chimney. I'm not sure why these clone makers feel the need to add an o-ring to the threaded part of the upper chimney. Maybe it stems from the concern that they don't have the QC to machine the chimney so they all seal without the use of an o-ring like the originals do.functionally, it shouldn't make a difference, so it really doesn't bother me.

The AFC screw using an Allen key instead of a flat head is a double edged sword. On the negative side, it's a pain to have to worry about carrying an Allan key to adjust your airflow. On the plus side, the Allen key makes it MUCH easier to re-install the screw. I was going to replace it with a spare AFC flat head screw from my Russian or KFL+, but after fumbling around for over 5 minutes and dropping the screw multiple times I gave up.

The airflow hole on the side of the device is slightly smaller than that on the R91 and even KFL+. However, it doesn't seem to lead to a noticeably tighter draw. Some people may want to drill it out to 1/16", but for now, I don't think I'll have any problem with the airflow.

The other thing, and this shows some forethought on the part of the vendor is the inclusion of about a half dozen spares of the o-ring that connects the top of the chimney to the top cap. Since this seems to be the o-ring most people have issues with, it was pretty smart of them to make the surplus of spares part of the kit. Parts: 4 stars

The only bummer is that, much like the other clones, you do have to be sure to take the whole thing to bits and clean it thoroughly. I didn't find more than maybe a trace of machining oils in mine, but there was some excess plastic from the insulator blocking the airflow hole on the center pin. Also, even after soaking in vodka and then soapy water, I did remove a fair amount of black grease from the inside of the drip tip when I ran a couple q-tips through it. I still think that vendors need to demand that the manufacturers do a better job cleaning these things before they go out. Cleanliness: 2 Stars

Overall, I'm ecstatic with the quality of the Black Edition clone. It's well worth the $50, and IMO certainly worth the $15-20 more than the other clones out there. Like I said, I've still got to put a build on it, but there aren't any issues I can for see there. In all honesty, I'm still planning on getting at least 1 more R91 or KFL+, but with the price point and quality of the BE clone, I'm probably gonna scoop up 2 more of them before they're sold out. Other than the cleanliness (which is par for the course from China), it really is a great clone.

Overall: 4 stars

Edit: Just finished my first build on the Black Edition about an hour ago. 3/32" bit, 28g Kanthal, 8 wraps, 1.4 ohms. Vapes identical to the original KFL+ and R91. With the AFC wide open, it may be the slightest (and I mean slightest) bit tighter than the original KFL+. Should be a non issue, even for lung-hitters like me. This thing is a clear winner!
 
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Verdes8891

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Maybe this happened to a couple of others who thought it was stripped?

Happened to me except I only have the 1 screw size for the connection posts. Going to head to the hardware store after work to see if I can find some better screws for it.

Sent from my XT1056 using Tapatalk
 

Verdes8891

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Happened to me except I only have the 1 screw size for the connection posts. Going to head to the hardware store after work to see if I can find some better screws for it.

Sent from my XT1056 using Tapatalk

In addition, I had contacted the seller and he is sending me new ones.

But i would like to find some more if possible. Ones that are not "balled" at the bottom to make capturing the wire a little easier. Anyone have an idea where to find them?
 

Mrbunglez

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I just ordered a "Black Russian" from some guy off of eBay who says it's another special edition with his own custom specs. Was on the fence between the Russian 91% and the Black edition kayfun lite, then I found this one which is both in one cause I like that matte look and didn't like the airflow control on the bottom of the black edition.Hopefully I get it soon, can't wait.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/261379748502
 
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SimianSteam

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What's the plus of having that 510 connection pin adjustable and removable?

Removable makes cleaning easier, adjustable ensures that it'll fit on all mods. The MVP v2 is the perfect example of a mod that has a deep 510 connector. With this KFL you can unscrew the 510 a bit so that it makes contact.
 

Mrbunglez

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Removable makes cleaning easier, adjustable ensures that it'll fit on all mods. The MVP v2 is the perfect example of a mod that has a deep 510 connector. With this KFL you can unscrew the 510 a bit so that it makes contact.

Ahhh, thanks for the info. So it would serve no purpose with my evic with the exception of easier cleaning.
 

Tommy Aces

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I just ordered a "Black Russian" from some guy off of eBay who says it's another special edition with his own custom specs. Was on the fence between the Russian 91% and the Black edition kayfun lite, then I found this one which is both in one cause I like that matte look and didn't like the airflow control on the bottom of the black edition.Hopefully I get it soon, can't wait.
Kayfun Lite Atomizer Clone Black Russian Ed Red 0S Clear SS Mids Adj Airflow | eBay

All that is is a matte version of the old Tobeco clone. Hopefully yours works better than the Tobeco one I have.
 

Tommy Aces

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Thanks for the consensus Tommy Aces___
Would you care to elaborate a bit more on your particular coil/wicking build. Mine should be here in another day or 2 and I am wanting this to be best experience I have had to date.. I love my drippers and the RSST is OK at best..

Well, at this point, I've experimented with a few different wick/coil sizes and configuration and ow pretty much build mine similar to the way that PBusardo does in his videos.

I typically do 7 wraps of 28 ga Kanthal on a 3/32" drill bit. The coil will measure out to 1.3 ohms. I mount it parallel with the juice channels, centered about 1-1.5 mm over the air hole (Just a note: the Black has an elevated center pin/airway compared to the real KFL/R91, so remember, you want your coil raised above the air hole, not just off the deck, by 1-1.5 mm.)

Personally, with my coils, I use the "tweeze and torch" method of compressing the coil as opposed to the "pulse and tweeze". I have shaky hands, so trying to do an extensive amount of pulsing and tweeting and get coil contact that is to my satisfaction is difficult for me. I'm simply able to get a more consistently straight and compresses coil through the "tweeze n' torch".

As far as wicking, I've tried silica, ekowool, and a bunch of different cottons. I've settled on CVS Organic Cotton Balls. I DO NOT boil them. I don't think any good comes from it, not to mention it's an unnecessary hassle. Anyway, I unroll the cotton ball, snip the ends, and cut it in half length-wise. I then tear off about 1/4-1/3 the width of the strip. I very gently roll the wick between my fingers. If it seems like too much, I'll pull off a little bit of the excess (I'll go more into wick size next paragraph). I then wet my finger and thumb and twist one of the wick' sends to a point. Next, I insert it through he coil.

Now, when working with cotton, the size and density of your wick are very important. Early on in my venture into Kayfuns, after reading through nearly the entire KFL Megathread, I was paranoid about using too much wick. So I was very careful to use as little wick as possible and make sure I had the ends on the deck but away from the juice channels.

Through trial, and error, and dry hits here and there, I realized that I was actually using TOO LITTLE cotton. Basically, in the Kayfun style, I find it's difficult to actually use too much cotton, especially with the 3/32" ID of most of my coils. When you pull your wick through the coil, you DO want to feel a SMALL amount of resistance, but the wick should still slide through easily when light tension is applied to both sides. You want the wick to make good contact with the whole coil even when dry. Never count on the wick expanding when juice is applied for it to make good contact with the coil.

Once you've got the wick through the coil, I trim the ends so they extend just outside the diameter of the device. I then fold them up and slide the lower portion of the chimney over them. At this point, both ends of the wick should extend a. Little bit above the top of the lower chimney. Now, I'll turn the device upside down and trim the ends of the wick so they're even or 1-2 mm above the top of the chimney (I hold it upside down so excess wick doesn't fall back into the chamber when I trim it). Next, using a pick or my smallest micro screwdriver, I very gently push the ends of my wick down into position on the deck. I make sure the ends of the wick are covering most of the deck. I want the wick to extend over and be right on the juice channel. I don't want to BLOCK the juice channel by stuffing the wick up against it or into it, but I want some of the wick ON it (I hope I explained that right).

Next I apply juice to the wick and coil. I give it a minute to make sure everything is saturated through and then test fire. Next, I'll screw on the top of the chimney and take a couple test vapes to be sure there is no burnt or metallic taste. If all is good, I'll finish assembling the device, fill, and vape away.

A couple notes:

1). Don't overfill the device. If filling for the bottom, you want to fill to just above the bottom (top when turned upside down) of the middle clear section. If you fill it too much more, it may not wick properly in the beginning. With the vacuum system the Kayyfuns use, it helps to have a decent "air bubble" on top of the juice in your tank.

2). I mentioned cotton density before, but this is just an observation from my experience: When I wasn't using a thick enough wick, I never got any kind of "cotton flavor". Now that I use a wick that's a little more dense, I sometimes "taste" the cotton for the first 10-20 vapes.

Also, when you are using enough cotton and have better contact with the coil you will be able to go longer in between dry burns/wick changes. If you're too stingy with the with of the wick, the heat from the coil causes the wick to "shrivel up" and you often lose good contact with the top of the coil. It may vape well for a while, but you'll quickly get a crusty buildup on the top of the coil, thus requiring a wick change and dry burn before you otherwise would.

Sorry for being longwinded. I kind of accidentally went into a full blown build tutorial. The thing is, the Kayfun style is so versatile, especially with a cotton/microcoil style build, it's possible that my preferred configuration could change again by next week. But for now, the above is the best quickest build that consistently performs for me. I typically run my 1.3 ohm coils @ 3.8v (11ish watts) on a ProVari with no wicking issues. It's not until I get up around 14 watts that I get some burnt/dryness if I chan vape it. Since getting into the Kayfuns about 4 months or so ago, I've used both my ProVaris more than I ever have. With the right build, you can rock the crap out of one on a mech, but I like that I can slap it on a regulated device and adjust the voltage/wattage to my whims.

Sorry I didn't have any coil/wick photos to post. I'll add a couple the next time I have one of my Kayfuns apart.
 
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