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I turned it upside down and it just went in my mouth
Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk 4
Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk 4
hey guys, I have seen a lot of posts saying that you don't want to block off the juice channels on the kayfun, in fact I might have said this before. after many builds I have actually noticed that as I open up my lite to re-wick or mess around with a new build that my wick tails are always positioned right on this channel. if someone told me to position my wick tail to actually block off this channel, then this is what it looks like to me. my tails really don't sit along the ledge, they basically are positioned just to the ledge and really are positioned right on the channel itself. I believe this position is good, the juice still comes in and I don't think it is really possible to block off the flow of juice unless you actually stuff it into the channel. I don't intentionally position my tails at the channels but it is very close and every time I open up my kayfun the tails somehow re- position slightly and move closer to the channel. anyways I can honestly say I have never had a dry hit with this device with micro&cotton and maybe this is a possible reason. so if some are having issues with dry hits and they believe the wick size is good and have a good coil then try a shorter wick that just reaches the channel and position it right at the channel, its worth a try. i know its late, couldn't sleep.
That's how I trim my wicks. The end is sitting on the deck right at the channel. Never had a single dry hit.
although i don't vape bobas anymore i still have some. when i first received my lite i wanted to see if thick juice worked in the lite with micro & cotton. i vaped a tank and had no issues at all, it performed pretty much the same as my 50/50 blend.
im not the only one awake? cool, then maybe there is something here. i think some run the wick tails along the ledge and away from the channel, maybe this just doesn't wick as well. maybe the direct tail at the channel wicks better
My first build, I dropped the tails off the coil and just touched the deck. That setup performed awesomely, but I tore it down for some stupid reason. I get ......ed like that.
I tried running the tails along the deck, and that just didn't do it for me. I've duplicated my first build, tails just touching the deck, and anytime I disassemble, the tails are sitting on the channels. No dry hits, no issues. The ends of the tails are not thick either, so that's got a lot to do with it not blocking the feed.
This is just my novice opinion.
Here's how my cotton wick sit...
...right on the juice channel. No wicking issues ever
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NOTE: It is all fluffed up, no twisting of the cotton at all√
...right on the juice channel. No wicking issues ever
_______________________________________________
NOTE: It is all fluffed up, no twisting of the cotton at all√
Here's how my cotton wick sit...
...right on the juice channel. No wicking issues ever
_______________________________________________
NOTE: It is all fluffed up, no twisting of the cotton at all√
That is a TON more cotton than you see on my builds. Possibly that's my problem.
Can I ask for a few more shots Q? Different angles.
Ohh, that's a double-microcoil. What u see is two coils - one sitting atop the other. Imagine that pic with the top section (coil) removed. And then u have only one coil, the bottom one, thus one wick on the deck.
Note again, the cotton is very-very thin, loosely passed thru the micro-coil. It's perpetually in a 'fluffed state', which is why it's looking fatter. But actually not. It's all strands, fibered up like a cotton candy. Here's two shots from the top of the chamber for ur assimilation:
I'm really not too fussy about it. I guess I run the ends of the cotton along the ledge a bit. It doesn't seem to matter whether they just drop down and stop, or run along the ledge a but. I never get dry hits. I have no idea why some folks do. These things just work. For me, I just make sure not to fool with, or twist the cotton up too much. I leave it pretty fluffy. Before saturating the cotton, mine look sort of like the guy's white moustache in the monopoly game.
Ohh, that's a double-microcoil. What u see is two coils - one sitting atop the other. Imagine that pic with the top section (coil) removed. And then u have only one coil, the bottom one, thus one wick on the deck.
Note again, the cotton is very-very thin, loosely passed thru the micro-coil. It's perpetually in a 'fluffed state', which is why it's looking fatter. But actually not. It's all strands, fibered up like a cotton candy. Here's two shots from the top of the chamber for ur assimilation:
WOW8-o That has to hit like a freaken train, have you fired it like that?
For those who are getting dry hits, I'm curious as to what voltages or amperages people are vaping at? Dry hits occur when A: The wicking material isn't wicking at all; or B: When the user's demand exceeds the wick's ability to replenish the coil fast enough.
I never get dry hits with my micro coil/cotton set ups. But I find that these set ups don't require a lot of power, to equal or surpass the vape that a mesh geny provides.
Personally, my micros meter at 1.2 ohms, and I vape them at 3.6 or 3.7 volts, which gives around 11 watts + or -. They work equally well on mechanicals as they do on the Provari.
I never get dry hits with my micro coil/cotton set ups. But I find that these set ups don't require a lot of power, to equal or surpass the vape that a mesh geny provides.
Personally, my micros meter at 1.2 ohms, and I vape them at 3.6 or 3.7 volts, which gives around 11 watts + or -. They work equally well on mechanicals as they do on the Provari.
As others have speculated previously, I wonder about tolerances in the machining.
I see some people experiencing dry hits, flooding, leaking when laid down, etc - none of which I've experienced at all. Yet I also see some people raving about the great flavor - while it's taken me a lot of experimentation to find a build that doesn't make the flavor of my juice disappear entirely...
(For reference, my current happy place is a .9ohm 8 wrap of 28 gauge Nichrome 60 with an internal diameter 1.6mm and cotton wick on a mechanical.)
Airflow tuning could compensate for machining variances, which of course is omitted on the Lite...
I see some people experiencing dry hits, flooding, leaking when laid down, etc - none of which I've experienced at all. Yet I also see some people raving about the great flavor - while it's taken me a lot of experimentation to find a build that doesn't make the flavor of my juice disappear entirely...
(For reference, my current happy place is a .9ohm 8 wrap of 28 gauge Nichrome 60 with an internal diameter 1.6mm and cotton wick on a mechanical.)
Airflow tuning could compensate for machining variances, which of course is omitted on the Lite...
Blehhhhhhhh... Finally got the money to order a KFL, was gonna get it from intaste and now they are sold out. Can't decide what to do.
I know cloud9 has em, but it makes me feel dirty paying VAT when I live in the US. Thought about going direct to SvoeMesto, but then shipping will take forever. How often does InTaste stock?
Also looked into getting a Russian 91% instead, but seems like they are even harder to get than the KFL despite being a Chinese made clone.
Edit: Oh, and also, can the normal Kayfun be converted into a KFL by swapping bottom caps?
I know cloud9 has em, but it makes me feel dirty paying VAT when I live in the US. Thought about going direct to SvoeMesto, but then shipping will take forever. How often does InTaste stock?
Also looked into getting a Russian 91% instead, but seems like they are even harder to get than the KFL despite being a Chinese made clone.
Edit: Oh, and also, can the normal Kayfun be converted into a KFL by swapping bottom caps?
cloud9 is a good source. I am waiting on a Russian 91% my self. I have 3 lites, all from Intaste. The 1st arrived in July, then the next 2 a few weeks after. I was going to get one from Cloud9, but at the time there site was offline. They are the "2" sources that include your xtra baggy n tool, micro screw driver. It costs 110. from a cali store, no xtra's included. I would only get it from Intaste, or Cloud9.
well I doubt any surpass my build at .65 on a mech but I have always thought that a thicker wire (like the 26g I use) and minimal wraps run quite cool compared to let say a 2.0Ω with 30 or 32g wire at 5 or so volts. not sure if the ones having issues are the latter?
I agree somewhat. I do think its possible to have slight variances which could make a difference.
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