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Portertown

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Great tip...I'm going to figure out how to do this also in my tanks in which I use a Diver or a Sophia. They are very sensitive to tank pressure integrity...now, just to figure out how to get a good seal on the 510 air holes...

The replacement cartridges that are used on the "Blu" ecigs comes with a little plastic cap over the end threads. I believe one of them would seal the 510 air holes nicely.
 

Portertown

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hate to tell you this but that test won't tell you anything about an internal leak which is where almost all leak problems are. don't believe, then remove the inner chimney completely and retest. it will pass your test, but obviously never hold internal tank vacuum

You are correct in what you are saying, but the test still has value I believe. I think very few leaks come from where the chimney screws to the base or where the upper and lower chimney connect together if they are properly tightened. The oring in the top cap that seals to the top of the chimney is really the important internal item this test does not address. If this oring is inspected for nicks or damage before assembly, the problems with it that occurs most often are it being out of position such as sliding down on the chimney stem or being pinched. If you remove the drip tip and look down into the top after assembly you can see if this oring is in it's proper position. This vacuum test will then check for any leaks due to tank sections or tank section orings.

It seems there are some new users having problems with getting the Kayfun sytems sealed up as they have to be to work properly. I am just trying to come up with a way that they can find their problems and get to enjoy these great products.
Please review this and see if it is correct now, if not please try to help me get it correct so it can be useful info for other users of Kayfuns.
 

reogrand

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You are correct in what you are saying, but the test still has value I believe. I think very few leaks come from where the chimney screws to the base or where the upper and lower chimney connect together if they are properly tightened. The oring in the top cap that seals to the top of the chimney is really the important internal item this test does not address. If this oring is inspected for nicks or damage before assembly, the problems with it that occurs most often are it being out of position such as sliding down on the chimney stem or being pinched. If you remove the drip tip and look down into the top after assembly you can see if this oring is in it's proper position. This vacuum test will then check for any leaks due to tank sections or tank section orings.

It seems there are some new users having problems with getting the Kayfun sytems sealed up as they have to be to work properly. I am just trying to come up with a way that they can find their problems and get to enjoy these great products.
Please review this and see if it is correct now, if not please try to help me get it correct so it can be useful info for other users of Kayfuns.

From my experience with the Kayfuns and the Russian 91%, this test is a good one. The chimney is a not a likely source of leaks because of the high quality threading. The o-ring at the top of the chimney is the usual culprit, but your simple test is a good one for the tank as a whole and a good idea to do before filling. It's simple, only takes a moment…I like the idea. Have a test fire, put on the chimney, assemble, give it a quick check that it holds a vacuum and fill her up. And as you said always inspect that o-ring for nicks or degradation and you are set.
 

sunnata

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I wish you said this right after a bunch of people reply with very firm and definitive answers


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Ha! I don't doubt different setups work better than others for given juices. But sometimes I think the superlatives go a bit over the top sometimes. Is one set up really leaps and bounds better than another as we are sometimes led to believe? I still find it interesting that Svoemesto still uses silica with a standard 4 or 5 wrap coil in all his demonstration videos. Looks like those coils I used to build for my Vivi Nova's. :)
 

Dusty_D

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Ha! I don't doubt different setups work better than others for given juices. But sometimes I think the superlatives go a bit over the top sometimes. Is one set up really leaps and bounds better than another as we are sometimes led to believe? I still find it interesting that Svoemesto still uses silica with a standard 4 or 5 wrap coil in all his demonstration videos. Looks like those coils I used to build for my Vivi Nova's. :)

Obviously nobody has pointed him to our micro coil thread. :D


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qorax

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what produces better flavor a lower gauge kanthal wire 26, 27 or twisted kanthal wire of a higher gauge like 30, 31 on the KFL? thoughts on this guys

I only have 28AWG Kanthal (have some 32g as well, but I don't use). I microcoil them and use cotton (ball/s or S'n'C yarn). And I get 'better' flavor all the time ;) Actually, too gr8 a flavor... Love the K'funs man!
 

vapdivrr

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did anyone see that coming? I mean a blowout by seattle? anyways been messing with a new coil and not sure if its been mentioned before because I just haven't been on the forums of late. I have always preferred the quickness and TH of a smaller diameter coil but like the wicking of a larger diameter coil, this made me try both. I started 5 wraps of 27g on a 5/64 bit then reduced to a 20g blunt tip for another 5 wraps then back to the 5/64 for the last 5 wraps. the strand of cotton is tiny and goes thru the whole coil. also I add a second wick, this wick is a standard thickness that goes thru the first 5 wraps, over the middle section, then back thru the last 5 wraps. its quite a pain to actually make this coil but this coil does rock. the end resistance is about 1.6Ω and am running it on my futura at 18 watts. all in all theres not that much difference between various coils and such but I do find this coil better then a standard micro coil for sure and maybe because of the double strand of cotton, shes wicking terrific even up to 20 watts with no issues at all.
 

Rictic

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First off, vapdivrr, I did not see that coming from a mile away. I would've lost very very much a lot of money if I would have made a bet with a spread on that game.

As for the gauge of wire, the only time I noticed a flavor difference was when I wrapped a micro coil with 30 gauge and one with 28 gauge. Both were the same number of wraps, same diameter, and vaped at the same wattage. I gotta say the 28 gauge produced much more flavor and vapor. I can't explain why, but it did (for me).
 

vapdivrr

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First off, vapdivrr, I did not see that coming from a mile away. I would've lost very very much a lot of money if I would have made a bet with a spread on that game.

As for the gauge of wire, the only time I noticed a flavor difference was when I wrapped a micro coil with 30 gauge and one with 28 gauge. Both were the same number of wraps, same diameter, and vaped at the same wattage. I gotta say the 28 gauge produced much more flavor and vapor. I can't explain why, but it did (for me).

i totally agree, you wont get any argument from me about the flavor of a thicker wire. in your case it is just more wick coverage and the fact that the overall temperature of the thicker wire at the wick is probably lower. the thinner wire is at a higher resistance and temp. i also would have lost a lot.
 

maf2k8

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Got bored tonight and decided to try a different type of dual coil in my KFL. 28g/.7 / 10 wraps 2x (20)

Vaping really nice! A little warmer vape ( which i prefer ), The vapor seems much thicker and flavor is much more rich.

2014-02-02 23.30.48.jpg
 
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itsrayray

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Is there much difference in taste between vertical and horizontal coils in these, from what I read mainly th.

I'm still rocking this in mine, triple 32ga twisted 1/16 bit 10wrap. Same resistance(within .0X) as my 28ga, but takes about 2watts more to get on 28ga level. Great vapor and flavor, crazy th though.

 
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