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2mm is about right. when I do my coil using my 16g blunt tipper I use that needle to set the height which is about 1.7mm, if I go with my bigger diameter coil I set it up also using that as my gauge which is 1.8mm. the largest I go sometimes is 5/64 which is about 2mm.
Is the reason people set the coils diagonal on the deck to have the legs shorter or for wicking method purposes? I've always thought the latter
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Pretty sweet. Got my SOV top cap today. Whole different atty!!! Extra 2ml of juice is nice too. More GVC!!!
for me its just the first method I used, which also lets me have a wick that's slightly longer. also it makes for shorter leads which I like. shorter leads really doesn't matter much but I just like the least amount of wire.
I do it for mainly for wick reasons, but shorter legs is another benefit.
Jerms, I've found that an interdental brush really does well with cleaning out between the coil wraps and also along the inside of the coil after a dry burn. It seems to rejuvenate the coils and makes them perform better after they've been used for a while, specially with some of the NET's we use.
Never heard of those, but I'll check out the oral care aisle for interdental brushes next time I go shopping.
Vapdivrr thanks for posting your experience with the ceramic rope....I'll be sticking with the yarn...I double boiled the yarn in RO filtered water...Works well for me...
I judge my coil height by the screws...No measurement but just a "feel" for what's right..I always attach my leads "clockwise"...When I'm sure the coil is positioned to my liking I give a final tightening of the screws break the wire by moving it back and forth...I often fish with wire and cut wire is very sharp wire...broken off it's dull...get cut by it and you'll break it too...I use a combination of things when dry burning...a can of air for blasting the initial crummies...an old toothbrush...toothpick...and a piece of yarn for cleaning the inside...It's easier for me to tell if it's clean when it's glowing...
I judge my coil height by the screws...No measurement but just a "feel" for what's right..I always attach my leads "clockwise"...When I'm sure the coil is positioned to my liking I give a final tightening of the screws break the wire by moving it back and forth...I often fish with wire and cut wire is very sharp wire...broken off it's dull...get cut by it and you'll break it too...I use a combination of things when dry burning...a can of air for blasting the initial crummies...an old toothbrush...toothpick...and a piece of yarn for cleaning the inside...It's easier for me to tell if it's clean when it's glowing...
That's correct...just widened the outside edge(rim) of the airhole so that it creates more of a smooth opening. Basic idea is that it files away rough edges that produce a whistle as air flows past those tiny bumps. Additionally larger holes make lower pitched sounds, so by increasing the diameter of the opening, less annoying high pitch whistle. Definitely worth a try IMHO if nothing else has worked.
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Deck screws
Does anyone know where I can find replacement deck screws with a larger head than stock? Would help for using lower gage wire past 28g.
Anyone know the screw size? If I knew that I could just visit Home Depot!!
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Does anyone know where I can find replacement deck screws with a larger head than stock? Would help for using lower gage wire past 28g.
Anyone know the screw size? If I knew that I could just visit Home Depot!!
Sent from my SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
Pretty sweet. Got my SOV top cap today. Whole different atty!!! Extra 2ml of juice is nice too. More GVC!!!
Woody is this the cap you won Sat night?
Dry burning the coil for a couple of seconds then running it under a stream of water and repeating once is great to clean the coil
couple things for you all today... my legit kayfun lite plus second batch came in today. not sure if i want to use it with my nemmy I take to school with me every day or just wait until my hanna modz dna30 comes in...
and I sanded down my nemmy and kayfun 3.1 today. sanded perpendicular to the length of the device. came out really well. can't see well in the pic but its the best i can do right now.
also, I tried a dual parallel coil in my 3.1 and I am loving it. ten wraps, but you do it with two wires side by side, so it looks like 20 wraps. hope that makes sense. I have to rewick right now (dry burn, can't see juice level because I am using all SS right now, no window.)
and I sanded down my nemmy and kayfun 3.1 today. sanded perpendicular to the length of the device. came out really well. can't see well in the pic but its the best i can do right now.
also, I tried a dual parallel coil in my 3.1 and I am loving it. ten wraps, but you do it with two wires side by side, so it looks like 20 wraps. hope that makes sense. I have to rewick right now (dry burn, can't see juice level because I am using all SS right now, no window.)
In my opinion the russian 91 is just like the kayfun lite, but with a little more airflow.
Properly heat treated XC-116 does not fray when it's cut. To properly heat treat it, it must be kept to a temperature over 1652 degrees for over 12 hours. RBA Supplies kiln treats their XC-116 to 1850 for 12 hours, and it does not fray when cut.
XC-116
Extreme chain vape 100% VG no dry hits. Just showing how well the Kayfun will wick 100% VG when it's properly built.
Build setup is here if anyone is interested.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rebuildable-atomizer-systems/532652-kayfun-build-100-vg-vaping-2.html
Build setup is here if anyone is interested.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rebuildable-atomizer-systems/532652-kayfun-build-100-vg-vaping-2.html
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