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sedge

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Do you scream at your wife? I bet she would get a mite huffy if you did. :D Especially if she'd already been frustrated out of her mind at whatever.

I have another question, this one not so earthshaking, just wondering. About the airflow control. I see there's another aperture of some sort on the bottom, and I see this L-shaped tool in the included parts... is that the correct tool for adjusting that? It seems just a little airy to me, because I like to feel some resistance in the draw -- haven't been quit smoking all that long. ;)

Andria

I have 2 SM KF3.1s and one Ehpro 3.q clone in my KF lineup. None of the 3.1s have any adjustments on the bottom bottom. Just a small flathead screw on the side of the base near the air intake. Your L shaped tool sounds like a hex key (aka allen wrench).

The best thing I've found to fill a 3.1 is a tapered free flow 20 gauge plastic tip syringe...the pink ones, not the green ones that all the ecig vendors sell. They are too big at 18g.

Scroll down to 3/4 ways down.
http://www.zeph.com/applicator_tips.htm
 

Dusty_D

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My KFLs are being naughty... I will get through the tanks by plugging the air hole every few vapes...I must have just a tad too much cotton.. It's the first time of using some new cotton..always a small learning curve:laugh:


Repeat after me, Less is more! Less is more!!


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AndriaD

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Answer to first question: ARE YOU MAD?! I get into enough crap with her by being nice to her. Why on earth would I scream at her?! :D

Answer to second question: Not familiar with the Kayfun 3.1 clones, but somebody will come along and provide an answer for you. If your husband comes back into the room, grab a broom, and swat him across the head with it.

No, I cooked homemade broccoli soup and garlic bread, and when I called him to dinner, he snarked at me again for not fixing his glass of iced tea.

Talk about can't win. :(

At least I seem to have gotten the Kayfun to work; it was apparently the original top filling that messed it up, thanks Busardo! ;) But I do need to do another coil for it. I was hesitant to go too low, since the small T3S coils I've been doing are really great around 2.5 Ω, so I aimed at 2 Ω for this one, it came out 2.1, but yeah, it's a bit slow; next time I'll try for about 1.7-1.8. I guess it's the difference in 32ga for the tiny coils, and the 30ga for this one.

I need to practice more on these coils anyway, it's a bit different, getting it attached to those tiny screws. I thought the T3S coils were hard at first, but it just takes a bit of practice.

Andria
 

AndriaD

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I have 2 SM KF3.1s and one Ehpro 3.q clone in my KF lineup. None of the 3.1s have any adjustments on the bottom bottom. Just a small flathead screw on the side of the base near the air intake. Your L shaped tool sounds like a hex key (aka allen wrench).

The best thing I've found to fill a 3.1 is a tapered free flow 20 gauge plastic tip syringe...the pink ones, not the green ones that all the ecig vendors sell. They are too big at 18g.

Scroll down to 3/4 ways down.
Dispensing Needles, Blunt, Stainless Steel, Tapered & Applicator TIps, Industrial, Luer Lock


I have an 18ga, it's pink... my green one is this humongous thick monster that I use mainly when I'm mixing a couple e-juices, I use it with a 10ml syringe. But the 18ga worked great! and I'm not sure who said it, but it seemed right, to fill it just to the top of the clear window, when it's upside down, so I stopped at that point, and it does seem very good now, no gurgling, so I guess I cleared out the mess.

I think I'll wait to adjust the airflow till after I get a more responsive coil in there. The 2.1 is slow enough that it might make it difficult to judge if I had it set right, or not.

Thx!
Andria
 

Akdare

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I use 30g on a 3/32" drill bit. 6 wraps is 1.8 ohms. Cotton ball wick.

If you keep the coil on the bit, it makes it easier to mount it. Bad ipad drawings follow.

8egy8yba.jpg

eburyzug.jpg


I keep the coil about 1 mm above the airhole, if you want more throat hit, move it a bit higher.
 

AndriaD

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I use 30g on a 3/32" drill bit. 6 wraps is 1.8 ohms. Cotton ball wick.

If you keep the coil on the bit, it makes it easier to mount it. Bad ipad drawings follow.


I keep the coil about 1 mm above the airhole, if you want more throat hit, move it a bit higher.

I thought the drawings were pretty good actually. :D I was using 3/32 for the T3S, it's easier to get a wick in it than the 5/64; I guess I could use the same one for the Kayfun, just use less wick than I put in the 1/8 I used for this one, but more than I use in the T3S; those things dry-hit so easily. The 3/32 seems a good size to handle too. I may try the cotton again when I get some real actual cotton balls, the only cotton I've tried so far is the peaches & cream yarn; it's great for stopping leaks, but gave me a lot of dry hits, and it doesn't taste that great, even after boiling. So I'm using 2mm hollow braided ekowool, it seems much better than the regular silica. It was giving me a slightly odd taste too, so I boiled a piece of it, then held it in the blue part of my lighter's flame; the odd taste seems to have gone, with all that. :thumb:

Thx for the tip about TH, that's the one thing I just can't do without; I might someday be able to slowly reduce my nicotine use, maybe even to 0, but I gotta have throat hit! ;)

Thx!
Andria
 

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I thought the drawings were pretty good actually. :D I was using 3/32 for the T3S, it's easier to get a wick in it than the 5/64; I guess I could use the same one for the Kayfun, just use less wick than I put in the 1/8 I used for this one, but more than I use in the T3S; those things dry-hit so easily. The 3/32 seems a good size to handle too. I may try the cotton again when I get some real actual cotton balls, the only cotton I've tried so far is the peaches & cream yarn; it's great for stopping leaks, but gave me a lot of dry hits, and it doesn't taste that great, even after boiling. So I'm using 2mm hollow braided ekowool, it seems much better than the regular silica. It was giving me a slightly odd taste too, so I boiled a piece of it, then held it in the blue part of my lighter's flame; the odd taste seems to have gone, with all that. :thumb:

Thx for the tip about TH, that's the one thing I just can't do without; I might someday be able to slowly reduce my nicotine use, maybe even to 0, but I gotta have throat hit! ;)

Thx!
Andria


Cotton is king. Silica, yarn or ekowool will not give you the clean taste or the simplicity of changing out a wick that cotton will. I've been down those respective roads before, and have 100's of feet of the "other" wicking materials that I no longer use.

Also, when using cotton, follow this mantra: Less is more. Less is more. Less is more! :)
 

AndriaD

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Cotton is king. Silica, yarn or ekowool will not give you the clean taste or the simplicity of changing out a wick that cotton will. I've been down those respective roads before, and have 100's of feet of the "other" wicking materials that I no longer use.

Also, when using cotton, follow this mantra: Less is more. Less is more. Less is more! :)

Yeah I'll probably just keep all the silica/ekowool for my collection of T3S's; they seem to do much better with it, than cotton, probably because that chamber is just so small, it concentrates the heat and scorches cotton in a flash.

All the cotton I have right now is the P&C yarn, but I'm going to boil a new batch of it, and give it another try. Even though I discovered it's not a good idea to follow Busardo's instructions for filling ;) I'll probably try to get my wicking to somewhat resemble what he used. It's yarn so it's approximate, but I'll give it my best shot. The 2nd coil I did hit the ohms just right at 1.7, but I think I just didn't use enough wick (the silica) because I wasn't getting much taste at all, not even as much as I was getting from the too-slow 2.1Ω coil.

So rewicking is my project for today. :thumb: Got more vapemail coming today, but I've got so much heading my way, I don't even remember what's supposed to arrive today. :blink:

Thx!
Andria
 

bsoplinger

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All the cotton I have right now is the P&C yarn, but I'm going to boil a new batch of it, and give it another try.
You most likely have another source of cotton that's sterile and doesn't need boiling. Q-Tips. The amount of cotton on the end of 1 swab is more than the necessary amount to wick a Kayfun. Just tug it off and work it, tugging gently to form it into a wick. I find about 60% is the right amount. I just tug it, getting it to stretch out and elongate into the general wick shape. Then tug off just under half the width. Wet an end to thread it through the coil. This for my 3mm coils. Smaller coils need less. If you can't tug the cotton back and forth through the coil without it deforming the coil or pulling on the legs, you have too much cotton.

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AndriaD

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Correct. The screw has a hexagonal hole in it and the L-shaped tool is hexagonal and fits into the hole. You'll most likely get a bit of a whistle as you tighten the draw. Just the nature of the design.

Well... *as far as I can see*, there's no screw in that other aperture, but it does seem to be hex shaped; however, again, *as far as I can see* neither end of that L-shaped tool fits that aperture; it's hard to say for sure because I have to hold a magnifying glass to see if I'm getting the tool into that aperture, so that means I don't have a spare hand to hold the kayfun in place as I try to get the tool into the aperture. So, I'm not sure what to do about that, except just accept the airflow as it is, which is a bit too airy for my liking -- actually I find the draw from a carto to be just about right, very similar to the draw from a real cigarette, and that's a good deal tighter than the draw I'm getting from this. I'm going to try this again when my husband gets home; he sees up close much better than I do, and may be able to tell if the tool fits, if it's actually doing anything, etc. All these little tiny things are not very friendly for those of us with middle-aged eyes -- by far the hardest part of all this with the kayfun was getting the wire around those tiny screws! But this thing with the airflow may have to take precedence in difficulty even over that, since I can't really even tell if the tool is going into that hex shaped aperture.

You most likely have another source of cotton that's sterile and doesn't need boiling. Q-Tips. The amount of cotton on the end of 1 swab is more than the necessary amount to wick a Kayfun. Just tug it off and work it, tugging gently to form it into a wick. I find about 60% is the right amount. I just tug it, getting it to stretch out and elongate into the general wick shape. Then tug off just under half the width. Wet an end to thread it through the coil. This for my 3mm coils. Smaller coils need less. If you can't tug the cotton back and forth through the coil without it deforming the coil or pulling on the legs, you have too much cotton.

Actually no; when we moved, all our Qtip bins got emptied into one large ziplock, so they're absolutely not sterile or sanitary. I used the P&C yarn, boiled it twice this time instead of just once, and let it dry thoroughly before trying to use it, and it seems to be working very well; I'm definitely getting a lot more flavor now than I was with any amount of silica. I don't know the mm of my coil; I used a 7/64 drill bit, but have no idea how that works out to mm. I pulled a loop of the P&C through the coil, and although it contacted the coil as it pulled thru, it did not deform or misshape the coil whatever, so I guess that's about the right width for this 7/64. When I pulled it up and got the bottom part of the chimney attached, I trimmed it to *just* a tiny bit emerging from the bottom part of the chimney, then tucked it all in as Busardo demonstrates, and soaked it with e-juice; I might have over-soaked it just a tiny bit, there was a tiny bit of gurgle at first, but it worked itself out within a few soft draws, so now no gurgle.

I'll try this for a while, and if I get dry hits, I'll know it's too much cotton; I've been over and over that territory with my T3S coils, so I know all too well what that tastes like -- 8-o -- but so far it seems ok. Although I definitely get a more "saturated" taste from my cartotank, so I know this really is just too airy, but have no idea how to rectify that while I'm here alone, without an extra pair of hands to hold the kayfun or good eyes to see if that L tool is actually doing anything. My husband may have a smaller version of that L tool, that will actually go into that hex shaped aperture, because this one really doesn't seem to fit at all.

Thx!
Andria
 
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JulesXsmokr

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Awww clone bashing :(

I've owned 7 authentic with one more coming in Monday. And a sheeeeeetload of clones (at this point I've had approx 16). Can't say too much about the fasttech ones, but the ehpro, hcigar and black editions have been more than sufficient for my abuses including chest height drops, pliers with no cloth etc. All parts are 100% interchangeable with authentic (which proved to be a pita one time when I disassembled and washed them all together).


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I like the part here, pliers with no cloth, LOL :D definitely a must have tool working with clones ...
 

JulesXsmokr

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blunt needle tip syringe works very well with the KfL

crazy these things,
I have used the blunt tip metal needle bottles to fill my kfl's clones particularly, and they have leaked almost every time.. I won't use that needle for my genuine, kinda like, fool me a couples of times and no more after that.
I use the blunt fat regular old stubby droppers and soft bottles and my 50/50 mixes glides right in there and fill to 80% in about 3 seconds.
No leaks or messes any more with either kfl's. Like others have said- make sure o-rings are good and the whole unit is tight to itself.
 

qorax

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ahh, nice to see this thread has gone back to normal and the clone talk has gone to the "clone" threads :) i'm not anti clone but.... ;)

I am.
Not Anti-Clones, but Anti-COUNTERFEITS. B'coz that's robbery!
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And I don't play safe ~ I am vocal about it ;)
 

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From the Classifieds Rules:

Unacceptable
Counterfeit - Counterfeits will basically be an exact replica of the original and not so much tied to the shape as it is more the markings. The shape would come into play if there are unique characteristics of the device. This can include grooves, cutouts, coloring, or trademarks in specific locations.

Acceptable
Clone - Can be similar in size, shape, and even design but will not contain the same markings or colors. As long as the device can be distinguished as different from the original, not just by the word clone, it will be considered a clone. Just by declaring a device a clone in it's title or description will not necessarily make it a clone. The clone device should be absent of all characteristics contained in the original, grooves, cutouts, coloring, or trademarks.
 
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