I tried cotton and it was the same as silica. Can't go above 7 watts.
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Is that while using the flat head zmax? I have that setup also. I do run in mean mode but you could try running it in rms mode. It is not as hot in rms mode
Silica, cotton..which is better? Once again folks, it's dependent on who you ask. Me personally, I don't find much of a difference. the next guy will swear cotton s better. Yet I know seasoned vapers who have tried everything and ended up with good ole silica.
Thats with all. Zmax V5, Tmax V5, Vamo, Provari and mech with kick. Over 7 watts burns with my liquid. Whats the deal with RMS and Mean? I tried both and not much of a difference.
More to come.
Keep it in the RMS mode. As stated by mgmrick, the mean mode pulses (pulse width modulation - pulses the voltage but averages it out to setting). Pulsing tends to burn the juice. There are exceptions, like the Provari which runs on pulse but it is at highly accelerated hertz levels so for all practical purposes it's constant. Pulse is more efficient but at lower hertz levels suck for vaping. The cheaper mods will have crappy PWD so leave it in the RMS mode if you have that option.
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I don't see much of a difference. I keep hearing that we should keep it in RMS. I use it sometimes just messing around.
I had a lavatube that was pulse width modulation (Mean mode) and it burnt everything. Got a VAMO and kept it in the RMS mode (they had an option). Even the VAMO sellers will tell you to keep it in RMS. The VAMO has cheap circuitry and the hertz levels are very low so you can "feel" the pulses. It results in getting the coil extra hot. Hertz is a "refreshing" parameter like on your TV. You're not really seeing a constant picture. what you are seeing is many multiple pictures per second. How fast the picture refreshes itself is the hertz factor. The more the picture refreshes itself, the sharper the picture will be (imagine motion when time between refreshes is slow). PWM in vaping works the same way. Provari uses PWD but as I said earlier, it is at very highly accelerated rates (high hertz levels). Provari's are expensive but they do give you high quality circuitry (among other things).
Yes!!! I could NOT figure out why I was having the dry hit issue constantly with my Sigelei, with T3S tanks that had worked perfectly on my vv3s. Then someone said "make sure it's in RMS mode" and that fixed it!
Andria
I just logged in to ECF Via website since i primarily use tapatalk and knew I was near a year on totally smoke free and my banner says 1 year, 1 week!! Thanks to everyone for the advice and support!! I am truly thankful to ECF and the many helpful people on this forum! I may post this on a couple of threads that I lurk and frequent to spread my excitement!! Peace out!
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Thanks Bronze! I was in your neck of the woods today, Youngsville!
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Wuuub! Always an achievement (although getting off ciggies no matter how long is an achievement in and of itself).
Congrats! Drinks all round for the good fella!
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Yeah, not too far. I used to work in Youngsville. It was really tiny back then. They used to say the population never changed in Youngsville. Whenever a baby was born a man left.
True, we have an asphalt and concrete plant in Youngsville/Franklinton area, so I am always around the area during the week!
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I think this is true with a regular 15 watt vv/vw device because most who use this device and are jacking up the voltage are using thinner gauge wires. If one could either put up with a big lag time and use a thicker gauge wire or use a dna device, one could increase the voltage with no flavor loss.
Just rebuilt 3 kayfuns 1.3 ohms for use on my dna30. Two of them vaping great at 15 watts. One of them I have rebuilt 4 times now and still can't get to wick well enough to run at 15 watts..... really wierd. These 3 have been in use for about 6 months now and built the same way. No leaking from the trouble maker kayfun. Tip upside down then back up and bubbles come to the top. It will not wick on its own. Bottom filled all three
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