Kayfun LITE

[GolemGolem]

Seems solid, nothing came off while I washed it out, smooth threads, weighs a ton. Came in a box with a screwdriver, silica, and wire. I'm new to kayfuns but it does seem like a quality piece.
Now to just get through this tank of rather nasty carmel, clean 'er again, re-wick and fill with something good, and I think it'll be coming to work with me most days.

 

[Fir3b1rd]

Seems solid, nothing came off while I washed it out, smooth threads, weighs a ton. Came in a box with a screwdriver, silica, and wire. I'm new to kayfuns but it does seem like a quality piece.
Now to just get through this tank of rather nasty carmel, clean 'er again, re-wick and fill with something good, and I think it'll be coming to work with me most days.

Awesome!!!!
Some of the clones are damn good! I just haven't heard of that name- unless maybe those are the people that make the fogger; which is a nice piece. I just always stuck with the same cloners; only because I've come to trust their build quality over time. I've gotten burned by the fasttechers and HATE wasting money.

 

[XBarbarian]

so this is KF thread, but its active. I just built a new R91, which is similar to KF, I understand, sort of a clone of a KF? this is a authentic R91.

anyway, my wicking question is the opposite. built a micro coil, tests at 1.6 ohms ( 9 wraps 5/64 bit, 28g ) on the new VS rDNA I bought with it ( which I highly recommend! ) I may drop iot to 6 wraps and see what the difference is. coil part easy peasy, but getting the wicking right seems a challenge. first run, went dry to fast. burnt the wick. re wicked it, shorter tails. I thought the tails were supposed to go down into the channels, but thats not the case, right? so, second time around, shorter wicks, just to the edge of the deck. hasnt gone dry this time. but Im still worried. should the chimney be somewhat stuffed? or less wicking? I actually pulled the tails up, put the chimney on, then used the screw driver to put the tails down, wet. thats seems better, but not sure. whats the trick with wick lengths? using cotton. heres a pic.. of the rig.. looks pretty sweet. put the lighter in there for scale..


according to the charts for 1.6 ohms, 8 watts ( 3.7 v) should be about right, max even. but i see all these folks going for more and more watts. thoughts .. about watts / volts with your KF / R91?

 

[XBarbarian]

oh, I will say.. that the flavor on this is freakin amazing! running some 5 Pawns Queenside atm in it.. and just.. wow. now.. to learn how to not get dry hits.. I had the air screw out totally, because I like a less restricted draw, but, that seemed to contribute to running dry, so, I put the screw back in about half way. sound about right?

 

[Fir3b1rd]

so this is KF thread, but its active. I just built a new R91, which is similar to KF, I understand, sort of a clone of a KF? this is a authentic R91.

anyway, my wicking question is the opposite. built a micro coil, tests at 1.6 ohms ( 9 wraps 5/64 bit, 28g ) on the new VS rDNA I bought with it ( which I highly recommend! ) I may drop iot to 6 wraps and see what the difference is. coil part easy peasy, but getting the wicking right seems a challenge. first run, went dry to fast. burnt the wick. re wicked it, shorter tails. I thought the tails were supposed to go down into the channels, but thats not the case, right? so, second time around, shorter wicks, just to the edge of the deck. hasnt gone dry this time. but Im still worried. should the chimney be somewhat stuffed? or less wicking? I actually pulled the tails up, put the chimney on, then used the screw driver to put the tails down, wet. thats seems better, but not sure. whats the trick with wick lengths? using cotton. heres a pic.. of the rig.. looks pretty sweet. put the lighter in there for scale..
View attachment 359155

according to the charts for 1.6 ohms, 8 watts ( 3.7 v) should be about right, max even. but i see all these folks going for more and more watts. thoughts .. about watts / volts with your KF / R91?

I've got that my KFLs and R91s (both clones and authentics) seem to run best at 1.4-1.6 ohms.
I've always used provaris until recently I started getting into mechs. On the provaris I've always done the +2 thing. If I'm wrapped at 1.4 I would add 2 and start adjustments from there.
1.4 ohm + 2 = 3.4 V
I start at 3.4 and go up or down till I find "my sweet spot"
It's usually pretty close as in plus or minus a .1 or .2 depending on juice.
With mechs I NEVER wrap one below a 0.8 anything lower can get it hot enough to melt the insulator and I like my face the way it looks currently.
I don't use the chart anymore; it was a great tool when I first started with vv/be mods. But at this point I'm far along enough to where I've realized that there are no rules. It's all about what makes you happy as a vaper. I like to vape at or about the same type of hit I would get off an analog. Sometimes I want a hit like I would get off a cigar. So long as you're vaping safely and enjoying what you are vaping it's all good..
As for your wicking - with cotton it tends to be a less is more thing: you don't "stuff" a kfl. You thread the coil and snip it where it just touched the floor of the deck and that's a wrap. also you don't wanna block the juice channels.

About like that. Only that is rayon- with cotton you'll want a little less

 

[Cybernated]

so this is KF thread, but its active. I just built a new R91, which is similar to KF, I understand, sort of a clone of a KF? this is a authentic R91.

anyway, my wicking question is the opposite. built a micro coil, tests at 1.6 ohms ( 9 wraps 5/64 bit, 28g ) on the new VS rDNA I bought with it ( which I highly recommend! ) I may drop iot to 6 wraps and see what the difference is. coil part easy peasy, but getting the wicking right seems a challenge. first run, went dry to fast. burnt the wick. re wicked it, shorter tails. I thought the tails were supposed to go down into the channels, but thats not the case, right? so, second time around, shorter wicks, just to the edge of the deck. hasnt gone dry this time. but Im still worried. should the chimney be somewhat stuffed? or less wicking? I actually pulled the tails up, put the chimney on, then used the screw driver to put the tails down, wet. thats seems better, but not sure. whats the trick with wick lengths? using cotton. heres a pic.. of the rig.. looks pretty sweet. put the lighter in there for scale..
View attachment 359155

according to the charts for 1.6 ohms, 8 watts ( 3.7 v) should be about right, max even. but i see all these folks going for more and more watts. thoughts .. about watts / volts with your KF / R91?

This is the guide I followed to start wicking, and the method I still use.

Wicking Kayfun/Russian v2.0 - Imgur

What are you using as a wicking material, that may change it up some also, IE Rayon uses a bit more then cotten since it shrinks when wet instead of expanding like cotton.

 

[TheKiwi]

Thought I would share it here too! Someone was saying it would be handy if we could kinda "nail down" a fail proof amount of KGD to use, so I thought I would share mine. Coil is wrapped around one of those cheap small screw drivers that comes with the Chinese attys, and I believe it's 5/64

Snip a width off (I've already split a pad into half thickness). It's around 2 times the width of the coil? (Looks bigger in the photo though)

The strip has a rectangular cross section. Just gently knead it so that it's round without twisting or compressing it

Slide it through the coil with minimal resistance

Saturate with juice and boom. Wicked.

It really doesn't get much easier than this. And the flavor is great.

Also I've found that if I divide the pad into 3 wicks length-wise, I don't even need to trim off the wick. It's almost perfect for my kayfun. Or at least for the way I vape


Burping out loud using Tapatalk

 

[XBarbarian]

I've got that my KFLs and R91s (both clones and authentics) seem to run best at 1.4-1.6 ohms.
I've always used provaris until recently I started getting into mechs. On the provaris I've always done the +2 thing. If I'm wrapped at 1.4 I would add 2 and start adjustments from there.
1.4 ohm + 2 = 3.4 V
I start at 3.4 and go up or down till I find "my sweet spot"
It's usually pretty close as in plus or minus a .1 or .2 depending on juice.
With mechs I NEVER wrap one below a 0.8 anything lower can get it hot enough to melt the insulator and I like my face the way it looks currently.
I don't use the chart anymore; it was a great tool when I first started with vv/be mods. But at this point I'm far along enough to where I've realized that there are no rules. It's all about what makes you happy as a vaper. I like to vape at or about the same type of hit I would get off an analog. Sometimes I want a hit like I would get off a cigar. So long as you're vaping safely and enjoying what you are vaping it's all good..
As for your wicking - with cotton it tends to be a less is more thing: you don't "stuff" a kfl. You thread the coil and snip it where it just touched the floor of the deck and that's a wrap. also you don't wanna block the juice channels.

About like that. Only that is rayon- with cotton you'll want a little less

great stuff.. thanks.. ok, so , dont sweat the chart, find whatever Watts tastes best, basically!

This is the guide I followed to start wicking, and the method I still use.

Wicking Kayfun/Russian v2.0 - Imgur

What are you using as a wicking material, that may change it up some also, IE Rayon uses a bit more then cotton since it shrinks when wet instead of expanding like cotton.

Thank you Man.. good video!

Thought I would share it here too! Someone was saying it would be handy if we could kinda "nail down" a fail proof amount of KGD to use, so I thought I would share mine. Coil is wrapped around one of those cheap small screw drivers that comes with the Chinese attys, and I believe it's 5/64

Snip a width off (I've already split a pad into half thickness). It's around 2 times the width of the coil? (Looks bigger in the photo though)

The strip has a rectangular cross section. Just gently knead it so that it's round without twisting or compressing it

Slide it through the coil with minimal resistance
Saturate with juice and boom. Wicked.
It really doesn't get much easier than this. And the flavor is great.

Also I've found that if I divide the pad into 3 wicks length-wise, I don't even need to trim off the wick. It's almost perfect for my kayfun. Or at least for the way I vape


Burping out loud using Tapatalk

thank you!

appreciate the support all!

 

[MaxUT]

great stuff.. thanks.. ok, so , dont sweat the chart, find whatever Watts tastes best, basically!

Proper wicking is the key to the Kayfun's performance. Tip o' the hat to Kiwi, who has pretty much covered it and the pics are great. I would have had much more trouble when starting out if I hadn't seen the setups of experienced users, ones that worked.

The Koh Gen Do pads work great and I've never felt the need to try any other cotton. Splitting the pads is the way to go, just divide it into two half-thicknesses as if you were separating a couple slices of bread.

>>> Before handling cotton, wash and dry your hands thoroughly to remove surface skin oil <<<

I cut a strip a little wider than the outside diameter of the coil. Unlike Kiwi, I then cut that strip into two rather than three lengths; this gives more length for a long tight twist at the end for threading through the coil and enough length to cut all of that compressed part off once you have the wick placed inside the coil.

The fit of the wick in the coil is the most critical detail.
If it just slips through, it's too thin... take that one out and toss it.
If it feels tight and pulls on the coil, it's too thick. Take it out, pull off a few strands of fiber and try it again.
Just a little resistance seems to work the best, enough wick so that it fills the coil but isn't squeezed.

As for the tails, I trim them at an angle so that they sweep across the juice deck. Imagine a kitchen broom with its bristles bent as it's being used to sweep the corner between wall and floor. The tails are just long enough to let the ends bend to lay flat against the deck.

I apply juice to saturate the wick, then arrange the tails along the deck with a round toothpick. The idea is to cover as much of the deck as possible, front to back, side to side, while still leaving some minimal clearance for putting the chimney on. (so as not to trap cotton fibers between the chimney and deck)

Apply a droplet of juice to each of the channels in the side of the threaded part and it's ready to install the chimney.

 

[MaxUT]

I had the air screw out totally, because I like a less restricted draw, but, that seemed to contribute to running dry, so, I put the screw back in about half way. sound about right?

Yep. In my experience, a tighter air flow screw setting helps to pull more vacuum inside the coil chamber, which draws more juice up through the channels. I like a big bore drip tip so that all the restriction is on the air inlet side of the atty.

 

[Flt Simulation]

Here is my thoughts on coils and wicks for the Kayfun .....


In my SvoëMesto Kayfun Lite-Plus, I tried using a micro-coil. The problem I had with them is that the inside diameter of the micro-coil was just too small to effectively install a cotton wick.

So ... I went back to making coils with a larger 2.4mm or 2.8mm inside diameter. Much better!

2.4mm inside diameter = 3/32" drill bit
2.8mm inside diameter = 7/64" drill bit


The photos below show a wick made with cotton yarn inserted in a Kanthal 28 AWG wire coil with a 2.4mm inside diameter ... This coil is 1.6 ohms. Feeding it 3.9v results in 9.5 watts (this seems to make for a very nice vape).

The problem with cotton yarn (or any cotton for that matter), is that it causes the juice in the tank to get very dark colored after a couple of tankfulls. Needs replacement all the time, and cannot be dry-burned.

Problem solved by replacing the cotton with braided silica (it resembles the cotton yarn, but WILL NOT burn, and lasts a looooong looooong time ). It also does not turn the juice a dark color like cotton.

Vapor production and flavor with a silica wick is just the same as cotton, but I get no flooding problems anymore on my Kayfun since changing over to silica.

 

[regal55]

Here is my thoughts on coils and wicks for the Kayfun .....


In my SvoëMesto Kayfun Lite-Plus, I tried using a micro-coil. The problem I had with them is that the inside diameter of the micro-coil was just too small to effectively install a cotton wick.

So ... I went back to making coils with a larger 2.4mm or 2.8mm inside diameter. Much better!

2.4mm inside diameter = 3/32" drill bit
2.8mm inside diameter = 7/64" drill bit


The photos below show a wick made with cotton yarn inserted in a Kanthal 28 AWG wire coil with a 2.4mm inside diameter ... This coil is 1.6 ohms. Feeding it 3.9v results in 9.5 watts (this seems to make for a very nice vape).

The problem with cotton yarn (or any cotton for that matter), is that it causes the juice in the tank to get very dark colored after a couple of tankfulls. Needs replacement all the time, and cannot be dry-burned.

Problem solved by replacing the cotton with braided silica (it resembles the cotton yarn, but WILL NOT burn, and lasts a looooong looooong time ). It also does not turn the juice a dark color like cotton.

Vapor production and flavor with a silica wick is just the same as cotton, but I get no flooding problems anymore on my Kayfun since changing over to silica.

Worlds wosrt KFL builder here, but aren't the juice channels blocked?

 

[Flt Simulation]

The wick is not jammed tightly into the juice channels ... just placed lightly over them so they get a constant flow of juice.

I have noticed that if the wicking material is not at least placed lightly over those channels, I can get flooding.

 

[XBarbarian]

so, after I made the 2nd attempt last night.. followed the advice, re watched rip's micro and chimney coil build video.. been using it last night and all day today on the VS as pictured. HOLY CRAP!! Im Loving it!! the flavor is rocking! and as luck had it, I bought some Queenside for the first tank.. omg.. sweet!

 

[Bronze]

so, after I made the 2nd attempt last night.. followed the advice, re watched rip's micro and chimney coil build video.. been using it last night and all day today on the VS as pictured. HOLY CRAP!! Im Loving it!! the flavor is rocking! and as luck had it, I bought some Queenside for the first tank.. omg.. sweet!

It's called a vapegasm.

 

[Woody7781]

Fit, what diameter silica is that?

 

[Flt Simulation]

It's 2mm braided hollow Ekowool silica.

In order to pull a double piece of it through the coil with a piece of wire (as shown in the photo), the coil needs to have a 2.8mm inside diameter. You will need to make the coil on a 7/64" drill rod to get that.

I found the 8 wraps of 28 AWG Kanthal wire will give 1.6 ohms if you use the 7/64" drill rod.

 

[vapdivrr]

Here is my thoughts on coils and wicks for the Kayfun .....


In my SvoëMesto Kayfun Lite-Plus, I tried using a micro-coil. The problem I had with them is that the inside diameter of the micro-coil was just too small to effectively install a cotton wick.

So ... I went back to making coils with a larger 2.4mm or 2.8mm inside diameter. Much better!

2.4mm inside diameter = 3/32" drill bit
2.8mm inside diameter = 7/64" drill bit


The photos below show a wick made with cotton yarn inserted in a Kanthal 28 AWG wire coil with a 2.4mm inside diameter ... This coil is 1.6 ohms. Feeding it 3.9v results in 9.5 watts (this seems to make for a very nice vape).

The problem with cotton yarn (or any cotton for that matter), is that it causes the juice in the tank to get very dark colored after a couple of tankfulls. Needs replacement all the time, and cannot be dry-burned.

Problem solved by replacing the cotton with braided silica (it resembles the cotton yarn, but WILL NOT burn, and lasts a looooong looooong time ). It also does not turn the juice a dark color like cotton.

Vapor production and flavor with a silica wick is just the same as cotton, but I get no flooding problems anymore on my Kayfun since changing over to silica.

Maybe it's the juice I use, but juice Darkening has never been an issue at all in the kayfun with me using micros. I actually switched from gennys to the kayfun because of juice darkening, so I hate it and I can definitely say, if it happens, it so miniscule that it's in detectable. Now it's different if your running the set up while it's all gunked up, but if you replace the cotton as soon as you detect a bad taste, no juice darkening. Either silica or cotton, the coils need a dry burn around the same time.

 

[vapdivrr]

The wick is not jammed tightly into the juice channels ... just placed lightly over them so they get a constant flow of juice.

I have noticed that if the wicking material is not at least placed lightly over those channels, I can get flooding.

I also kind of keep my wick tails close to channels. I feel the closer they are, the better because I feel they are right there catching the juice immediately. Maybe because I vape at higher watts then most, personally when I keep my wicks or try to keep my wicks away from channels is when I have issues.

 

[vapdivrr]

Proper wicking is the key to the Kayfun's performance. Tip o' the hat to Kiwi, who has pretty much covered it and the pics are great. I would have had much more trouble when starting out if I hadn't seen the setups of experienced users, ones that worked.

The Koh Gen Do pads work great and I've never felt the need to try any other cotton. Splitting the pads is the way to go, just divide it into two half-thicknesses as if you were separating a couple slices of bread.

>>> Before handling cotton, wash and dry your hands thoroughly to remove surface skin oil <<<

I cut a strip a little wider than the outside diameter of the coil. Unlike Kiwi, I then cut that strip into two rather than three lengths; this gives more length for a long tight twist at the end for threading through the coil and enough length to cut all of that compressed part off once you have the wick placed inside the coil.

The fit of the wick in the coil is the most critical detail.
If it just slips through, it's too thin... take that one out and toss it.
If it feels tight and pulls on the coil, it's too thick. Take it out, pull off a few strands of fiber and try it again.
Just a little resistance seems to work the best, enough wick so that it fills the coil but isn't squeezed.

As for the tails, I trim them at an angle so that they sweep across the juice deck. Imagine a kitchen broom with its bristles bent as it's being used to sweep the corner between wall and floor. The tails are just long enough to let the ends bend to lay flat against the deck.

I apply juice to saturate the wick, then arrange the tails along the deck with a round toothpick. The idea is to cover as much of the deck as possible, front to back, side to side, while still leaving some minimal clearance for putting the chimney on. (so as not to trap cotton fibers between the chimney and deck)

Apply a droplet of juice to each of the channels in the side of the threaded part and it's ready to install the chimney.

I do pretty much the same, and here is the broom wick.