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Here is what I was referring to the other day. I find as long as I leave the channel inlet clear I never have any wicking problems. Never floods, never a dry hit. I just paste the wick to the side of the deck and as you can see the channel groove is open into the chamber.
Tarsius kit, 10 months old. I have an SOV spare tank, but it is on loan.
coonsidering buying a bunch of the kayfun bases from svoemestos website to convert my clones to authentic. i checked already my ehpro and hcigar parts are completely interchangeable with my authentics already.
anyone find this to be dumb idea or a waste of money?
in my opionion they all seem to perform the same; well, the ehpro, hcigar and authentic at least.
the super cheap clones are spare parts since the two I have are either too shallow a juice channel to be worth using or such a poor quality that its useless otherwise
anyone find this to be dumb idea or a waste of money?
in my opionion they all seem to perform the same; well, the ehpro, hcigar and authentic at least.
the super cheap clones are spare parts since the two I have are either too shallow a juice channel to be worth using or such a poor quality that its useless otherwise
apparntly so, i had no idea till this morning.
I went to the site to check the price of the Mtanks directly from svoemesto, and evidently for 35 euro(havent done the conversion yet) you can buy just a "replacement" base from them.
they sell all parts individually - scary weird
the top caps are 14 euro
the chimney and combustion chamber is 10 euro
hell you can build the entire KFL part by part.
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Vaperev used to sell the bases also, though I don't see them on their site anymore.
yeah roger, i see they sell most of the other parts still.
looks liks if someone were strapped for cash and wanted an authentic they could buy a part or two a month lol
lmao!!!!! it is an interesting concept that for 45 bucks you can turn a cheap fasttech clone into an authentic KFL.
Yes, although rarely straight up. I usually add a little Halo Belgian Cocoa and a little WTA, but the result is still primarily Bobas with some added subtleties.
I think they've toned the viscosity down some from the factory, but I've been known to add a bit of DW to stuff that I think is too thick, especially in winter.
It definitely darkens a some, but I haven't noticed it getting thicker. Then again, I don't have any that's 8 months old either.
I rarely buy any pre-made juice but I ordered a 30 ml bottle this morning from Alien
i rarely buy premade juice anymore. I did just get a bottle of grandmaster and mothers milk though. typically i vape DIY.
ive been lucky to, over time, gather a decent inventory of clones and authentic KFLs; so for me, at this point id rather spend 45 bucks on an authentiuc base than 30 on an ehpro clone, i have. that said: i find ehpro to be the best out of any of the KFL clones, in both build qality and performance. i just dont have any reason to build up any more. i probably wouldnt bother anyway but i was considering taking a tobeco clone with a messed up posistive block and making it an authentic base; all the parts will work.
Sweet, I'm glad that the 24mm works fine. I hear a lot about Science of Vaping products though which makes me more inclined to purchase their tank. But I'm still confused why theirs is 28mm instead, and if there are any ramifications because of it.
Yeah the tank in the picture actually threads into the base and the top cap, the o-rings are just there for an additional measure. I like it because basically the top cap is threaded to the base so you don't have to worry about the tank coming apart.
Thanks for the help though, it's much appreciated.
and where again did you get that kit? if the glass threads onto the base and cap; im highly curious.
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