Perhaps you would share details of this heretofore unknown (to me at least) technology?
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Perhaps you would share details of this heretofore unknown (to me at least) technology?
A gentleman who goes by Iteo on Instagram. He came up with a method of wetting, then rolling cotton and stuffing tightly into the coil. Lots of videos and threads. I don't see it working in an rta (I never tried) but it works very well in drippers.
https://www.google.com/search?ie=U...int-us&source=android-browser&q=iteo+wicking
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It is a bit but works extremely well for drippers. 20+ drags easily be for redripping even with shallow drip well atties
Sounds like sound advice to me. Along with making sure the tails reach the deck.
Thanks so much for the latest "more is less" Japanese cotton tips, folks. I've been getting dry hits on my NET's lately and couldn't figure out what's up. I kept going less instead of more. I just recoiled with a twisted 32 gauge kanthal at 1.5 ohms, I didn't compress the coil, and filled the darn thing up with the cotton. Trimmed on an angle and stuffed to just touch the decks and have made it through 3 tanks on a kayfun lite 2.0 (with draw screws out). 11 watts on a Sigelei 20W. Nice and I used to have to re-wick every tank. Waiting for my Erl and a SquapeR clone (sorry in advance) to show up but I can make it now. I may have gotten a little trigger happy.
I wish I'd checked in with you a week or so ago. Appreciate everyone's input here.
I wish I'd checked in with you a week or so ago. Appreciate everyone's input here.
glad its rocking! talking about rocking, wait till you vape the erlk, its amazing.
a small clue about the new kayfun: A PBusardo Review - The Russian V2.0 - YouTube
A little off subject, but wanted opinions from a few of you!!
Hello my friends...I had one of those questions looming around in my head and I would seek out an explanation!! I use mech mods and regulated(Provari) about half and half or thereabouts. Correct me if I'm wrong but on a mech mod, the most battery strength you can get is 4.2 volts and whatever the amperage is for that battery so your coils become a much bigger "player" to achieve wattage, correct? With a regulated mod like the Provari, you can start out with a 1.8ohm coil and go beyond 4.2v as long as your battery and mod can handle the amperage/wattage, correct?
I was just trying to get it in my head when I am switching between mods and finally decided to run my lower ohm coils....1.2-1.5 on mech and 2.0 ohm coils on provari. I thought I understood ohms laws but just making sense logically in my head makes me want to think that with a freshly charged battery at 4.2 volts is the most power I can push and then it relies on low ohm coils and double check that my battery can handle the amperage, correct?as much as I love the mech mods and that first hour or so of pure raw power, it drops in voltage!! The regulated mod does maintain same voltage throughout the battery life as I see that to be only advantage, do you?
I will continue to use both but wanted to be sure my reasoning made sense!! Thanks for any input!!
P.S. I may post this in a couple threads to get different feedback!
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Hello my friends...I had one of those questions looming around in my head and I would seek out an explanation!! I use mech mods and regulated(Provari) about half and half or thereabouts. Correct me if I'm wrong but on a mech mod, the most battery strength you can get is 4.2 volts and whatever the amperage is for that battery so your coils become a much bigger "player" to achieve wattage, correct? With a regulated mod like the Provari, you can start out with a 1.8ohm coil and go beyond 4.2v as long as your battery and mod can handle the amperage/wattage, correct?
I was just trying to get it in my head when I am switching between mods and finally decided to run my lower ohm coils....1.2-1.5 on mech and 2.0 ohm coils on provari. I thought I understood ohms laws but just making sense logically in my head makes me want to think that with a freshly charged battery at 4.2 volts is the most power I can push and then it relies on low ohm coils and double check that my battery can handle the amperage, correct?as much as I love the mech mods and that first hour or so of pure raw power, it drops in voltage!! The regulated mod does maintain same voltage throughout the battery life as I see that to be only advantage, do you?
I will continue to use both but wanted to be sure my reasoning made sense!! Thanks for any input!!
P.S. I may post this in a couple threads to get different feedback!
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
OK Guys, somewhat new here. and I have a question. I have a kayfun clone that has been leaking pretty much since I got it. Read all the threads I could, checked my o-rings and threads, rewicked the thing several times, and couldn't figure it out. Always though that it was my inexperience in wicking.
Anyways, today I tried something different. I noticed that the evaporation chamber to evaporation chamber cone does not have an o-ring, the manual did not show nor mention one. But I decided to put one on anyways.
Well, no more leaking. My question is. Could this be the culprit? Metal to metal did not make a good seal, and the tank never held vacuum? Or did I do something else that I didn't notice, and the problem likely will return next time I clean the tank.
Anyways, today I tried something different. I noticed that the evaporation chamber to evaporation chamber cone does not have an o-ring, the manual did not show nor mention one. But I decided to put one on anyways.
Well, no more leaking. My question is. Could this be the culprit? Metal to metal did not make a good seal, and the tank never held vacuum? Or did I do something else that I didn't notice, and the problem likely will return next time I clean the tank.
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^ none of my authentics have that o ring. Buuuut all my clones have a clear Oring right there. Not sure why the difference
I wonder if there is some kind of a flange on the authentic that makes a better seal. Or maybe the threads are more precise and they seal once a bit of juice gets on them.
Update: Just went through a full tank, and not a drop leaked. Finally I am enjoying my kayfun.
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I'm really new to this scene, so take my understanding with a grain of salt.
Since the coil doesn't change once installed, watts (power) in mech mods is dependent on voltage. Power = volts x volts / ohms. As the volts in the battery drop, so do the watts (power)
Another formula is Power = volts x amps. This formula is more relevant in a regulated mod before the power gets to your coil. As the battery voltage drops, the regulating circuit will draw more amps from the battery and convert (boost) it to higher voltage. As far as your coil knows the power is volts x volts / ohms. Advantages of a regulated mod are consistent voltage to the coil. And also the ability to raise the voltage higher than the battery to give you more wattage. The disadvantage is that once the battery voltage drops, the regulating circuit will draw more amps to compensate and drain your battery quicker. Also the size of a regulated mod is somewhat bulky compared to a mech mod.
The above is for a cold coil. Things get more interesting once the coil starts to heat up and the resistance starts to increase. The resistance increase can vary by the wire thickness, temperature of the coil, coil diameter, even the pg/vg mix. Mech mod will still be dependent on a simple formula volts x volts / ohms. As the resistance of the coil changes with the temperature, so will the wattage.
Regulated mod circuit might respond differently depending on design. Some regulators might lock in the setting and not change the wattage while resistance increases, while others might respond similarly to a mech mod.
Just my opinion from what I remember from school.
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