Lavatube features

[Nomoreash]

I wish someone made a tube type VV that took perhaps two batteries and was made/regulated like our box mods.. a non boost type. (I don't know the terminology) I may get the Madvapes VV box mod for a backup - I like the idea that it does not have the limitations of the LavaTube or the Provari but will handle anything from 0 to 7 volts but I really wanted a tube type. ( with a meter Ha Ha.. I want it all)

Check out the Buzz Pro or Infinity Pro should be the same. I can vouch for the BP, holds the voltage as it should till the battery dies with very little dropout under load, longer battery life and it's less current limited than the Provari or LT. Doesn't have a meter but you can pick up a screw on meter if you really want for $15ish.

 

[John Phoenix]

Check out the Buzz Pro or Infinity Pro should be the same. I can vouch for the BP, holds the voltage as it should till the battery dies with very little dropout under load, longer battery life and it's less current limited than the Provari or LT. Doesn't have a meter but you can pick up a screw on meter if you really want for $15ish.

Thanks. I have checked them out and like both of them except they lack a meter/LCD which for me is a must over a dial wheel. That's what I should have been more clear on in my above post.. it wasn't just the meter I wanted it was the LCD volt adjustment. If I wanted a tube and dial wheel without the meter I could get the MadVapes VV Kit and stick it in a tube with the pot on the bottom. Perhaps MadVapes will come out with a kit that uses an LCD for volt adjustment and meter. That would rock.

 

[Keeno]

John, I was able to vape at or above 5.5 UNTIL I reached a battery level of 3.6. At a battery level of 3.6 I could only reach 5.4 under load at a setting of 6.0. So yea, if ya wanna go at or above 5.5 your gonna only be able to do so at a battery level/reading of 3.7 or higher and at that 3.7 ya have to have the LT cranked up all the way to 6.0 to get that 5.5 under load.....at least by my results. My "poor man's" solution for that if I wanna stay at 5.5 is just to swap my batteries out at a 3.6 battery level. The highest level I reached under load was 5.8 and that was on a fully charged battery. Even at a 3.9 battery level the highest I could get had dropped to 5.6.

 

[bikertrash]

Thanks. I have checked them out and like both of them except they lack a meter/LCD which for me is a must over a dial wheel. That's what I should have been more clear on in my above post.. it wasn't just the meter I wanted it was the LCD volt adjustment. If I wanted a tube and dial wheel without the meter I could get the MadVapes VV Kit and stick it in a tube with the pot on the bottom. Perhaps MadVapes will come out with a kit that uses an LCD for volt adjustment and meter. That would rock.

You asked, and they listened! almost... not a kit but, I bet they start selling it as a kit... seems like they have on everything else..

Check this out...

MADVAPES VV w/METER

 

[DevilFishPhil]

Really?? The BP has a longer battery life than the LT's 18650?

Check out the Buzz Pro or Infinity Pro should be the same. I can vouch for the BP, holds the voltage as it should till the battery dies with very little dropout under load, longer battery life

 

[Uma]

Thought this would be a nice place to add up some lavatube features - Please let me know if i forget anything and i'll add it up..

• Press power button 7 times to get remaining voltage of battery
• Press and hold power to turn device off (same to turn back on)
• Press and hold + & - buttons for 5 seconds to lock voltage (same to unlock)
• Same voltage when changing battery - lock voltage as above let screen go off change battery as quick as you are able
• Voltage under load - press power 7 times - press and hold fire button and press power button one more time

I think that's pretty much it without going into the pure basics

I can't seem to achieve the last bonus, Voltage Under Load. How long do you press the fire button? I've tried many different lengths of time, but to no avail. It takes me to where I have it set at (4.2) or where the battery is at (3.9 or wherever it is at the moment).

 

[KeysBum]

Yesterday I got the two LT's I bought for me and my son in law. After ONE day they are both malfunctioning. The power on/off button on mine is not "clicking" and stuck on. At least it's not stuck dead. SIL's is randomly turning itself off and won't turn on with the power button. The batteries need to be removed/replaced to get it to come on.

FAILURE after 1 day is not acceptable. This could be a great mod. Too bad the QC and components are so bad.

I hope I can get them replaced under warranty. But this is BS. Glad I didn't trade one of my Buzz Pro's for one.

EDIT: I wouldn't trade one of my Buzz Pros for 5 of these.

 

[Keeno]

That sucks key and sorry to hear......Volcano should take care of you though then you can either keep them or sell them as they should sell pretty quickly around here I'm thinking.

 

[jtpjc]

I can't seem to achieve the last bonus, Voltage Under Load. How long do you press the fire button? I've tried many different lengths of time, but to no avail. It takes me to where I have it set at (4.2) or where the battery is at (3.9 or wherever it is at the moment).

I do get a different value when I try this method. Press the on/off button (NOT the fire button!) seven times, and while the LT shows the actual voltage of the battery, immediately press the fire button, keep it pressed and press the on/off button one time. The LCD now shows a different value (probably). But I seriously doubt it accurately shows the voltage under load. For example, right now I use a 3 ohm atomizer set at 4.2 volt. Seven presses on the on/off button shows 3.7 volt. The extra press on the fire button and the on/off button shows 3.2 volts. I refuse to believe that this is the actual voltage under load. Has to be something else, but I don't know what. I've noticed this value is higher (up to 3.7 volt) on a freshly charged battery, but it drops very quickly as the battery drains. Anybody have any idea? I would love to know.

 

[mikebabs]

What jtpjc said.....The method to check the voltage under load is flawed and screwy.....I always double check it with a meter and most of the time it isn't even close.
I have NO idea what the value given is when you check with the 7 press trick.....

 

[Uma]

It still didn't work. I recieved a different value once, but discovered the battery level had changed is all. Oh well.

 

[DrOckW]

I will add my hat to the non-believer's ring. I don't think that a constant response of 3.5 no matter the type of atty is accurate, I go from 1.7ohm - 5 ohm should read something different. I don't know what that number is but it's not the loaded voltage.

No disrespect to the OP it may be that the intended number is loaded voltage.

 

[chriscmc]

Yesterday I got the two LT's I bought for me and my son in law. After ONE day they are both malfunctioning. The power on/off button on mine is not "clicking" and stuck on. At least it's not stuck dead. SIL's is randomly turning itself off and won't turn on with the power button. The batteries need to be removed/replaced to get it to come on.

FAILURE after 1 day is not acceptable. This could be a great mod. Too bad the QC and components are so bad.

I hope I can get them replaced under warranty. But this is BS. Glad I didn't trade one of my Buzz Pro's for one.

EDIT: I wouldn't trade one of my Buzz Pros for 5 of these.

I've got the same issue as your SIL's. I went back to Volcano who responded with 'What kind of battery are you using?' and 'removing the cap and making sure the spring has not been pushed down at all. Sometimes the connection coil spring is pushed down a bit and this causes a loose connection between the battery and the device'. Sounds counter-intuitive unless they mean the spring gets stuck inside the cap and stops making a connection with the battery. Since I'm only really using it as a backup to by Buzz, I'm not wasting any time following up with it further, though I did order in an AW IMR battery to see if that makes a difference. When I got my LT, everyone was out of the AW IMR batteries and I've been using the AW protected or SmokTech 18650s from my old E-Powers. It mostly works, so I'm mostly OK with it. At least even with ordering another battery it's still cheaper than another Buzz and gives me something different to play around with.

 

[rem700]

What should the battery indicator read just before the battery goes dead?

 

[DevilFishPhil]

Usually it'll start flashing at 3.3...

 

[rem700]

Usually it'll start flashing at 3.3...

Thanks just got mine yesterday and I am down to 3.8 and was wondering when I might need to start worrying about the battery dieing, Sounds like I got a ways to go still.

 

[DevilFishPhil]

Yep @ 3.8 you're definitely set for a little while..

 

[John Phoenix]

I have been reading about the voltage under load thing and some folks feel this is the battery voltage under load, not the voltage under load at the carto.

 

[jtpjc]

Hey John, that could very well be the case. Interesting.

 

[DrOckW]

I came to that conclusion myself John, I think this has to be true.