Mechanical mods and why?

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EDO

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Just so people don't get confused by this thread, it is important to note.....that if you are going to make a SLR coil on Genesis you have to use 28g wire or use twisted wires. Even though 28g wire is super responsive and is a low ohm wire... the wire doesn't get nearly as hot as the 32g at the same watts. You have to supply it with more watts for it get as hot as the 32g wire. This is why you have to vape at 15+ watts and use a mechanical device to do it. vaping at 15 watts with 32g wire will almost burn any liquid but you can vape at 20watts with most liquids with 28g wire. So if you want to experience SLR vaping at high wattage get some 28g kanthal and decent mechanical device. Most people just put their 32g set ups on the vamo and put the wattage setting at 15watts and decide high wattage vaping isn't for them.
 
Well, sorry to resurrect a thread but I just found out the night and day difference between Mech mods and Regulated mods...

So rolling back through my Ecig history, I have had a LT Mk1 that eventually the screen failed on, A Howitzer Mk2 that just gave up inside and never worked again, and now my Evic (which I have regarded to this day as the best mod I've owned) Has started having software issues, Constantly reading 100% battery, Dies on 100%, wont let you charge through usb as it's at 100% and charging is finished! Also, Temp sensor is going amiss, sometimes reading 6 celcius or even 2... despite me never being in environments that cold!

This is where my other mods come in... My Vmod XL is still working perfectly fine, As is my 18350 Gripper and my Telescope... So 3 regulated mods have failed electrically, and my mechanical mods are still going strong!

Im about to invest in a Bombshell Stinger to use my Genesis on, Why? Because Im tired of electronically controlled mods failing... And also, Im an ex pipe smoker... and to me, there's something magical about an all mechanical mod. A battery, A switch, An atty.

Battery fails? replace...
Switch fails? Probably never going to happen, yet an easy repair on most mech mods...
Atty fails? Big whoop.... Stick another on.

And that is all that I have to worry about. If I drop my evic, Time goes slow-mo as I ponder whether it will survive the impact... With my mechanical mods, if they fall over, I pick it up, Check for new battlescars and just vape away!

Will I miss VV/VW? Yes... A heck of a lot... Do I NEED VV/VW? Not at all! one of the best vapes (and most surprising) of my experience was the 18350 gripper with a smoktech dual coil 1.5ohm carto, and there's NOUT special about that...

I admit that VV/VW is a nice feature, It means that whatever you screw on, you can use without issues once you get the right power level for the wicking and coil abilities... But to me, It's more like the training wheels of discovering how voltage, resistance and wattage come into play, And I'm ready to lose my training wheels :p
 

muzichead

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Well, sorry to resurrect a thread but I just found out the night and day difference between Mech mods and Regulated mods...

So rolling back through my Ecig history, I have had a LT Mk1 that eventually the screen failed on, A Howitzer Mk2 that just gave up inside and never worked again, and now my Evic (which I have regarded to this day as the best mod I've owned) Has started having software issues, Constantly reading 100% battery, Dies on 100%, wont let you charge through usb as it's at 100% and charging is finished! Also, Temp sensor is going amiss, sometimes reading 6 celcius or even 2... despite me never being in environments that cold!

This is where my other mods come in... My Vmod XL is still working perfectly fine, As is my 18350 Gripper and my Telescope... So 3 regulated mods have failed electrically, and my mechanical mods are still going strong!

Im about to invest in a Bombshell Stinger to use my Genesis on, Why? Because Im tired of electronically controlled mods failing... And also, Im an ex pipe smoker... and to me, there's something magical about an all mechanical mod. A battery, A switch, An atty.

Battery fails? replace...
Switch fails? Probably never going to happen, yet an easy repair on most mech mods...
Atty fails? Big whoop.... Stick another on.

And that is all that I have to worry about. If I drop my evic, Time goes slow-mo as I ponder whether it will survive the impact... With my mechanical mods, if they fall over, I pick it up, Check for new battlescars and just vape away!

Will I miss VV/VW? Yes... A heck of a lot... Do I NEED VV/VW? Not at all! one of the best vapes (and most surprising) of my experience was the 18350 gripper with a smoktech dual coil 1.5ohm carto, and there's NOUT special about that...

I admit that VV/VW is a nice feature, It means that whatever you screw on, you can use without issues once you get the right power level for the wicking and coil abilities... But to me, It's more like the training wheels of discovering how voltage, resistance and wattage come into play, And I'm ready to lose my training wheels :p

Just in case you don't know this, the Bombshell Stinger "IS NOT" a mechanical mod!!!! The control head is wired, like an eGo or a Silver Bullet... If you make a SLR ohm coil and try to fire it you could fry the control head and or melt the hot spring in the unit... Just wanted to pass that on...
 
Just in case you don't know this, the Bombshell Stinger "IS NOT" a mechanical mod!!!! The control head is wired, like an eGo or a Silver Bullet... If you make a SLR ohm coil and try to fire it you could fry the control head and or melt the hot spring in the unit... Just wanted to pass that on...

Thanks! I actually didnt know, As it's designed for the kick, I just assumed there were no other electronics! Time to keep looking around then :p

Ideally 18650 or larger... maybe with the intention of stacking IMR 18350's at some point?

Im not really too interested in SLR coils... I've recently discovered that 3.0ohm carto's clearos and atties are more my thing and in my vaping experience, I find that they hardly ever burn and seem to produce better flavour if you have the voltage to drive them... That being said, I've not seen many high res coils on a Genesis...
 

muzichead

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There's no difference in the voltage of MNKE 26650 and an AW16340... They are all 3.7v!!! There is however a difference in mAh rating though... That is where the vape time varies. They also have different amp ratings as well and makes a difference as to what you put on top of your APV...

Back to the device though, there are so many devices out there that you can install a kick in and yes it will work very well in a device such as the Bombshell or a Silver Bullet. I was just pointing out that the said device wasn't all mechanical... That was all...
 
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dakrido

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There's no difference in the voltage of MNKE 26650 and an AW16340... They are all 3.7v!!! There is however a difference in mAh rating though... That is where the vape time varies. They also have different amp ratings as well and makes a difference as to what you put on top of your APV... It seems since you enjoy 3.0ohm coils, you prefer a cooler vape and that is good and all unless you are vaping that 3.0ohm coil at 6 volts. That would be no different than putting a 1.5-1.8ohm coil on a 3.7v device. I can tell you though, you have never really tasted you juice until you put it in a LR atty. The lower the resistance and higher amp load is what makes a juice come to life... I know this has been true of everything I have vaped to date and a lot of vapers out there would probably agree. But, to each his own... Back to the device though, there are so many devices out there that you can install a kick in and yes it will work very well in a device such as the Bombshell or a Silver Bullet. I was just pointing out that the said device wasn't all mechanical... That was all...


Hi muzichead,
I'm not understanding this...
If a 3ohm coil at 6 volts gives 12w, how can it be no different than a 1.5ohm coil at 3.7 volts which should give a little over 9w?



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muzichead

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Hi muzichead,
I'm not understanding this...
If a 3ohm coil at 6 volts gives 12w, how can it be no different than a 1.5ohm coil at 3.7 volts which should give a little over 9w?



Envoyé de mon iPad à l'aide de Tapatalk

Sorry for the confusion... I had someone in my ear at the time and got all jacked up in the head and didn't read what I had actually typed before I hit the submit button.... I edited out part of my previous post... I will attempt to sort it out later in the day though...
 

tc1

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How is electrical contact to the atomizer accomplished in mechanical mods? In normal mods wires are soldered to the receptacle...but how does this work mechanically? Wanting to build one but this question is puzzling me. Does the current flown through the body of the mod?

Yes, the circuit is completed through the body. The switch makes contact with the bottom post which is is against the negative terminal of the battery, thus completing the circuit.
 
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ClippinWings

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How is electrical contact to the atomizer accomplished in mechanical mods? In normal mods wires are soldered to the receptacle...but how does this work mechanically? Wanting to build one but this question is puzzling me. Does the current flown through the body of the mod?

The body becomes the negative.

The biggest thing to understand is you will have to manufacture the 510 connector... Because any of the ones you, can buy will require wires.... The center post on the connector needs to extend to touch the positive terminal of the battery.

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