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Forget about Watts when it comes to a mech, but yes, that reading at the bottom was indeed wattage for optimal vaping.
Watts on a mech are irrelevant. What are important are impedance (Ohms), amperage and voltage, all of which are known or discoverable, and the most important is amperage. Too high of an amperage draw, and you might lose your face or hands.
That is why so many are telling you to step back. You do not sound ready for it, and nobody wants you to become an abject lesson in what NOT to do.
Please take heed.
So what should I do then 45 bucks on rabbit 35 on a squonk and 25 for some 207000 ijoys i wanted to start squonking Tuesday
I'm willing to try a build you guys suggest just will have to wait for the wire in the mail
I don't want to fork out for a new rda suppose I should learn steam engine how to use the heat flux thing
I'm willing to try a build you guys suggest just will have to wait for the wire in the mail
I don't want to fork out for a new rda suppose I should learn steam engine how to use the heat flux thing
battery-safety in relation to coil-mass, heat-capacity, and heat-flux. How can I learn how that all works?
So what should I do then 45 bucks on rabbit 35 on a squonk and 25 for some 207000 ijoys i wanted to start squonking Tuesday
I'm willing to try a build you guys suggest just will have to wait for the wire in the mail
I don't want to fork out for a new rda suppose I should learn steam engine how to use the heat flux thing
Why don't you try this...
Go to your Local Vape shop and buy a Piece or Small Spool of 26 Gauge Kanthal A1.
Then wrap 6 Wraps around a 3mm Rod, Mandrel, Drill Bit, whatever.
A 26ga Kanthal A1 3mm Coil with 6 Wraps should be around .7 Ohms. But you have to Check it.
So a Pair of Dual Coils like this should be .35 Ohms. But you have to Check it.
So now you would have a Dual Coil Build at .35 Ohms which should give you a Good Hit. But would be OK to use on a Mech.
Heat Flux is just way to put a Number on "How Hot" a Coil(s) get at a given Voltage/Wattage.
So if you have a Build that you like the way it Hits, you can Plug the Wire Gauge, Coil Size, Number of Wraps, etc, into the Steam Engine page and get a Heat Flux "Number"
Say that Number is 350.
Now if you want to make a Change to say the Gauge and Number of Wraps, you can compare the New Heat Flux Number to your Number that you like. And get a Feel for will the New Build be Hotter? Or Cooler? Or maybe about the Same?
As long as you can Measure a Coil(s) Ohm Accurately, and can Calculate the Amp Draw on your Battery(s) for a given Build, and Understand what your Battery(s) CDR are, you have enough to Use a Mech.
Doing Heat Flux comparisons is Great. But it Isn't a Perfect Science. More of a Good Guestimation sometimes.
"Ramp up time" is dictated by mass and the amount of current flowing through it. A 0.5 single wire 26ga SS316L coil will heat a lot faster than dual Claptons with a total of 0.5 ohms given the same amount of current.
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Man. Reading through this thread gives me anxiety.
It looks like you guys are trying to herd a cat.
Given a power source limited to 4.2v maximum & a single wire coil;
.5Ω of 32ga blink of an eye maybe two.
.5Ω of 30ga will heat almost instantly
.5Ω of 28 rapidly
.5Ω of 26 quickly
.5Ω of 24 okay kinda slow for my taste
.5Ω of 22 slow
.5Ω of 20 like pouring room temp crisco.
Resistance doesn't equate to ramp up or cool down, coil mass / the amount of metal the coil is made of does. Wraps don't equate to resistance, length of wire & inside diameter does.
Fancy / complex coils have more mass to heat & cool at any given resistance than simple single wire.
You can get 500' of Ka for +/- $12 bucks, or a 6 or 7 pack of 25' - 50' lengths of various gauge wire for $15 and practice wrapping until you get good at it & understand what you're doing.
Or you've been given advice on how to use what you have, but it seems you're not getting it or it isn't what you want to hear.
Using a mech safely really isn't nearly as hard as you are making it on yourself.
Start with the basics, when you become confident in your own abilities take another step.
If you want to go from point A to point F safely you need to take each step, not jump or skip steps.
This might take 15 whole minutes or a month depending on your ability to grasp what you're doing & why.
As Scott and Top mentioned, the Amount of Wire is what has the Greatest effects on the Ramp-Up (and Ramp-Down) time. That, and the type of Wire Alloy used for a given gauge.
NiChrome 80 has a Faster Ramp-Up/Down than Kanthal A1
Stainless Steels (SS) have a Faster Ramp-Up/Down than NiChrome 80
So if you want the Fastest Ramp-Up/Down, a person would use SS Coils.
But here's the Problem that people can run into with say 26ga SS. If I want to make a Coil out of SS that has Double the Resistance of my Final Dual Coil Build (because the Final Resistance will be 1/2 of each coil), I need a Boat Load of Wraps. And a Boat Load of Wraps might not Physically fit in my RDA.
So instead of just using a Thinner Wire, like 28ga, some will just use Less Wraps. But this Lowers the Resistance of the Coil. Which Lowers the Final Resistance by a factor of 2. Which then can cause the Battery to have to provide More Amps than it can handle.
This also ties into that Heat Flux thing that was Mentioned Earlier.
If I make a 0.5 Ohm Build out of 22ga Wire and put it on a Mech, the Ramp-Up/Down time would be Forever. And the Hit would be Weak and Pathetic.
But at the Same 0.5 Ohms but made out of 30ga Wire, the Ramp-Up/Down time would be Instantaneous. And the hit would be Very Hot. Maybe Too Hot to Handle.
Why? Because even though the Builds have the Same Resistance, 0.5 Ohms, the Build with the Thinner Wire has a Greater Heat Flux. Meaning, the Build with the Thinner Wire has the ability to get "Hotter" than the build with the Thicker Wire when the Same Voltage is used.
And in a Mech, the Voltage isn't adjustable. You just get what the Battery has when you push the Fire Button.
TL/DR:
Fat Wire = Slow Ramp-Up/Down vs Thin Wire = Fast Ramp-Up/Down for the same Ohms on a Mech.
It may seem that way. LOL.
But I think the OP is starting to Understand Things Better.
And I'm Not posting just for the OP. But for dozens of Other People who are reading this Thread who might be Picking Up something from it.
...and consider surface area of the build
Too few wraps...less surface area
I've been doing more parallel builds in single coil attys.
Rather than using say single 24g wire, use parallel 26g
More surface area and seems to ramp up quicker.
I'll build a Wasp differently than a Haku, because of the size of airholes.
Too few wraps...less surface area
I've been doing more parallel builds in single coil attys.
Rather than using say single 24g wire, use parallel 26g
More surface area and seems to ramp up quicker.
I'll build a Wasp differently than a Haku, because of the size of airholes.
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At the shop been using some dudes pulse with 20 gauge ni80 ramps up pretty fast but that's in the pulse rda
My shop said some 24g ni80 8 wraps should be a decent ramp up not to hot so one coil should be .606 .5ish after cutting the leads
So would be a .3 ish or just under it so that's defo safe for the 20700
Used the tiger coils on the pulse no flavor no warmth defeitnaly not my kind of vape
The shop told me k1 at .7 .7 so .35 would have some long ramp up and I should use ni80 for a mech because of the faster ramp
My shop said some 24g ni80 8 wraps should be a decent ramp up not to hot so one coil should be .606 .5ish after cutting the leads
So would be a .3 ish or just under it so that's defo safe for the 20700
Used the tiger coils on the pulse no flavor no warmth defeitnaly not my kind of vape
The shop told me k1 at .7 .7 so .35 would have some long ramp up and I should use ni80 for a mech because of the faster ramp
If you want to go with NiChrome80, which Wouldn't be a bad call, go with 26ga.
Faster Ramp-Up time than 24ga.
Easier to Fit the Coils in Most RDA's
Probably a Better Hit on a Mech.
20ga, IMO, is just Silly. Might as well just use these bent into a coil.
That's what I thought but it fit fine I'm the pulse 22 and ramped up like voopoo drag instant
Unfourantly both shops near me got no wire till Wednesday and it's snowing hard core
Think going to pick up 24g and 26g ni80
Unfourantly both shops near me got no wire till Wednesday and it's snowing hard core
Think going to pick up 24g and 26g ni80
If 24ga works good for you, and you're not Exceeding the CDR of your Battery(s), that's all that matters.
But when I can Buy a 50 Foot Spool of Wire for like 6 Bucks, I'd always suggest Trying out different Gauges.
24 g 26 g seems like popular choices I just want a vape like I get from Claptons not to warm but flavorful
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