We used to use dual wires (0.16 twisted with 0.13)... With that way, the thinner wire (0.13mm) would help the fatter wire to auto clean because of the high temperature of it...
I believe that something like this could be happened with the mesh
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We used to use dual wires (0.16 twisted with 0.13)... With that way, the thinner wire (0.13mm) would help the fatter wire to auto clean because of the high temperature of it...
I believe that something like this could be happened with the mesh
of course my friend,only mesh
i have this coils of mesh till Tuesday
and i want to see how long can they last
i have this coils of mesh till Tuesday
and i want to see how long can they last
Dry eliquid? meaning?Maybe your mesh has some dry e-liquid on it ... try your setup @6V to clean the mesh
This is great advice, actually, for any atty. I was having a hard time getting good vapor production/flavor out of a clearo a while back and accidentally had the fire button go off for a bit in my pocket (it started getting hot - thank God it didn't pop a coil, or worse, burn me or hurt the battery). Point is, it ended up burning off the gunk and it vaped beautifully after that. Ended up doing the same with my Penny and other atties whenever I'd hit that bad vapor issue (6V is 5 sec pulses, like a "wet burn") and the atties all come back to life. Careful not to do it for too long or you'll burn the silica or pop a coil, but it does work like ggero says.
i change my coils with mesh yesterday
and i did that because i was boring and i haven't nothing better to do
the old coils were in extremely good condition and i can reuse them again
but threw them in the trash
i like mesh style coils
the only bad think is that they discharge batteries very quicly
but i am use to it
and i did that because i was boring and i haven't nothing better to do
the old coils were in extremely good condition and i can reuse them again
but threw them in the trash
i like mesh style coils
the only bad think is that they discharge batteries very quicly
but i am use to it
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A quick thought. Perhaps this may be better served in it's own thread, but has anyone tried just using resistance wire WITHOUT any NR wire? I've been doing it my v2 Ody, mostly because I'm lazy and somewhat spoiled by some of my Genesis mods, but I seem to get the same amount of vapor and better flavor (IMHO) at 1.5ohms as I would get at 1ohm using the more complicated mesh/nr wire setup. To be more specific, I'm taking a single strand of 30AWG Kanthal, and wrapping it around two pieces of 3mm fiber wick. No NR wire used whatsoever. By not using any NR wire, it's heating up the juice in coil area as well as the channels. I've been doing this for over a week now with no degradation in wick or performance.
Nice to see people are still experimenting. Here is some Kanthal A1 mesh you guys might want to play with:
Kanthal A-1 Wire Mesh Screen 4"x12" High temperature for Alcohol Stove Camping | eBay
Kanthal A-1 Wire Mesh Screen 4"x12" High temperature for Alcohol Stove Camping | eBay
Very interesting jslick. Do you still connect the single wire under the nut and down both channels? What kind of battery are you using with this setup?
Does just using resistance wire cause the atty to get very hot? It obviously works from your picture (and that's how the replaceable heads on the clearos are done), but I'm concerned this setup may cause something to singe along the channels. Could be wrong. Would save a TON of time!
Another thought would be to double up on the r wire along the channels (twisting the r wire so that its twice as thick and more resistant). It would be somewhat the same effect as using NR wire, but there would be some resistance on the twisted parts to heat up some of the juice along the channels, but not get as hot as just running the r wire straight down. I do that on my vivi nova heads to avoid burning the rubber grommets at the base of the head and works quite well.
Yes. Connected as usual. I'm using an AW IMR 18350.
It does get very hot in the atty, and continuous use makes the outside of the tank get hot as well. I suppose it's to be expected as there's more surface area heating up this way. I too am concerned with burning up the ceramic and such, but it does work (or at least for now).Does just using resistance wire cause the atty to get very hot? It obviously works from your picture (and that's how the replaceable heads on the clearos are done), but I'm concerned this setup may cause something to singe along the channels. Could be wrong. Would save a TON of time!
By doubling up on the R wire, I assume you mean like twisted coil which would cut the ohms in half, correct? So in order to maintain a good level of resistance, I'd need to lengthen the twisted R wire by increasing the number of wraps that forms the coil around the wick which in turn increases the heated surface area inside the coil area of the ceramic?
Correct on that last point. It won't completely eliminate heat in the channel, but should help mitigate some damage from excessive heat from just an r-wire down the channel.
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