I've never popped a coil in an rba either. I've wrecked them changing out wicks though. I used to pop attys though every two to six weeks if i was lucky. 32 gauge used, organic cotton ball wicks.
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Yep. I'm all about keeping my coil "integrity" and using it over and over again while simply changing the wick.
But do you guys/gals find that no matter what; at a certain point you have to build a new coil? That no amount of "dry burning" will improve the taste or remove the juice crud or oxidation or whatever it is. The great taste goes away and you have to do a new coil build?
Or do I just love experimenting with coil builds?
Thanks,
Norman
I've gotten into the habit of squonking when I first pick up my VVG, and squonking every 3 or 4 hits thereafter. As a result, my silica wick hasnt needed replacing in 3 weeks and is still in amazing shape. No vapor or flavor falloff. I went back to silica simply because of its durability. 32G and 3mm silica. Makes for an easy vape life! JMO
I think it depends a lot on the juice. I've got one coil in place for several months now, I replace the wick about once a week. Its a simple peppermint juice and stays very clean. Some other more complex juices need a daily re-wick and weekly coil replacement. Btw, these are all micro coils with cotton wicks. About 1.5 ohms at 4.2v on the vvg, and a dualie .7 on the grand.Yep. I'm all about keeping my coil "integrity" and using it over and over again while simply changing the wick.
But do you guys/gals find that no matter what; at a certain point you have to build a new coil? That no amount of "dry burning" will improve the taste or remove the juice crud or oxidation or whatever it is. The great taste goes away and you have to do a new coil build?
Or do I just love experimenting with coil builds?
Thanks,
Norman
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Hey,
Just wanted to say a big thanks for the Micro Coil suggestion. I've built one out on my IGO-L with 30g that is 1.4ohm and one on my Reomizer 2.0 with 28g at 1.6ohm. They both give an awesome flavor and vapor. Pics below. Cheers!
Just wanted to say a big thanks for the Micro Coil suggestion. I've built one out on my IGO-L with 30g that is 1.4ohm and one on my Reomizer 2.0 with 28g at 1.6ohm. They both give an awesome flavor and vapor. Pics below. Cheers!
Well, I thought I'd give this micro-coil a try. 10- 11 wraps gave me 2.6 ohms. Don't think that's how it's supposed to work. 
But I did find out that the 100% cotton emboidery thread is more to my liking than bamboo And, since it's on my VVG, I can put enough wattage to make a good tasty vape !
EDIT: UHGG! Dry Hit. Not advisable with that many coils.... might just replace wicks...
But I did find out that the 100% cotton emboidery thread is more to my liking than bamboo And, since it's on my VVG, I can put enough wattage to make a good tasty vape !EDIT: UHGG! Dry Hit.
Not advisable with that many coils.... might just replace wicks...
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Well, I thought I'd give this micro-coil a try. 10- 11 wraps gave me 2.6 ohms. Don't think that's how it's supposed to work.
EDIT: UHGG! Dry Hit.
Brett, that sounds right. Anything in the 10 or more wraps range producing 2.6 or less is pretty micro bro. Yes, you have to squonk more often with these little bad boys
Because I was so impressed with the nice coil I made for the Hornet, I made another micro-coil earlier today wrapping it about 8/9 times on a heavy duty paperclip. Scrunched it all together, and mounted it diagonally on my Reomizer. It metered to about 1.8ish, if I remember right. Wicked it with some boiled cotton ball. Vaping some peppermint cupcake and it is very very good! I like this micro-coil thing. My paperclip seems to be the perfect size. The whole system seems to stay cleaner and be more efficient. That's a good thing!
I'm 2 days in with the micro on the Hornet and the original wick is still clean and the coil looks good, too.
Thanks, Super_X!
Question... the wraps of the coil should not be touching each other, correct?
From my understanding, Horselady, they should be touching each other, gives more surface area to heat up, better vapor. Just don't let the coil touch anything else...posts or bottom of RBA.
I was told by several REONauts that the coils SHOULD touch on a microcoil. Produces more heating surface with fewer Ohms that way. I was also told that the coils should NOT touch anything else (other than the post connections). Seems to work for me, so far...
Micro coil. I did mine without touching and im happy. So next time i guess ill try touching. Does every successive coil need to touch.? I mean what if one wrap doesnt quite touch ?is this a problem? Yes it seems to require more care attention to keeping properly wet, especially because i use as litte wick as possible. That could change. I have a lot to learn
I would say the ultimate goal is to get them as close to each other as possible. Touching is ideal. It is not important that they all touch (and if ya find a way to do that let me know ) but more more that their as closely wrapped and scrunched as you can get em. That is how you will get more wraps without significantly upping the ohms which equals more flavor.
Target could be identified as: more wraps but achieve same (or slightly higher) ohms than you think you like.
Here's what I'm gonna start using as a mold to wrap off of. Its a needle tip juice bottle cap. The top makes it easier to grip than that picture nail and the diameter is equal to a large paper clip. Nice and micro.
) but more more that their as closely wrapped and scrunched as you can get em. That is how you will get more wraps without significantly upping the ohms which equals more flavor. Target could be identified as: more wraps but achieve same (or slightly higher) ohms than you think you like.
Here's what I'm gonna start using as a mold to wrap off of. Its a needle tip juice bottle cap. The top makes it easier to grip than that picture nail and the diameter is equal to a large paper clip. Nice and micro.
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Question here, Super X; How would you plan on wicking something that small ? I use a needle threader to wick my coils, not sure that would work for a coil that small....
Interestingly, touching coils does not reduce resistance. Try metering your touching coil and then pulling it apart -- it'll be the same resistance
I wonder if the magic happens when the coils are close enough to hold juice between themselves by virtue of surface tension?
I wonder if the magic happens when the coils are close enough to hold juice between themselves by virtue of surface tension?
Brett, it's pretty much the same thickness as that nail. It's not too difficult to twist rolled cotton into a very thin wick. It helps to keep your fingers moistened (I run a wet paper towel to wet em with) while rolling it up. Roll one side into a very long, thin point. Trim the very tip to eliminate any stray fibers. It sometimes takes me several attempts to get it in. You want to feel just slight resistance when you pull it thru. If it is too tight, just back it out and twist some more. Piece of cake !
Interestingly, touching coils does not reduce resistance. Try metering your touching coil and then pulling it apart -- it'll be the same resistance
I wonder if the magic happens when the coils are close enough to hold juice between themselves by virtue of surface tension?
That could be it! I am not sure, but it is definitely worth the extra time in building and the more frequent squonks IMO.
Interestingly, touching coils does not reduce resistance. Try metering your touching coil and then pulling it apart -- it'll be the same resistance
I wonder if the magic happens when the coils are close enough to hold juice between themselves by virtue of surface tension?
I read somewhere that new Kanthal will short against itself if coils are touching, in effect lowering resistance, BUT as soon as the Kanthal is heated to a certain point it gets some sort of thin coating (oxidation?) that prevents it from these shorts.
I used to fire up my wire before rolling into a micro, then remove the coil from the mold, hit again with a lighter, then squeeze it together with some needle nose pliers. Wash, rinse, repeat a few times till my coil was super tight and compact before installing. It worked great and the majority of the coils were touching.
But I'm inherently lazy... Lately, I've skipped the torching all together. Just spin up my coil, give it a good squeeze while still on the mold (in my case a T-pin), and install. When I pull the mold the coils are real close, but certainly not touching. I then give it a few pulses till it glows orange evenly, then try to nudge the coils a little closer together with a light squeeze. I can usually do this without destroying the integrity of the coil.
Overall performance seems the same to me, and though the coils are not all touching, I get the same resistance per given length of wire.
One more thing. I have to think that ribbon wire is getting popular because it has more surface area. In effect, its making a thin tube with barely any gaps, in some cases nearly a solid pipe with wicking material passing through it. Seems a very efficient way to get maximum coil to wick contact.
The same would be difficult to achieve with round wire. Even with 28g Kanthal you would need an excessive amount to wire to create a solid pipe. Now if you reduce the diameter of your 'pipe' you can get a decent amount of length for your target resistance and still create a nearly solid surface to contact the wick. Enter the "Solid Micro Coil"
The same would be difficult to achieve with round wire. Even with 28g Kanthal you would need an excessive amount to wire to create a solid pipe. Now if you reduce the diameter of your 'pipe' you can get a decent amount of length for your target resistance and still create a nearly solid surface to contact the wick. Enter the "Solid Micro Coil"
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