Finally got a working DNA200 mod THANKS TO
@Steamer861 !!!!
Sprayed it with a matte finish Rustoleum clear protectant, several coats, let it set and air dry in the Texas heat. Took a couple of hours. I had to sand the round radius of each button to make them slide in/out of the holes on the faceplate. Then I had to sand the bottoms of each button to prevent auto pressing of the onboard DNA200 buttons when the board was finally screwed down tight. I used a black sharpie marker to re-color the sides of the buttons because when I sanded them, they got white "grain" scratches... I did the same for the button holes on the faceplate because when I spray coated the enclosure I mistakenly didn't put anything inside the holes to keep the paint out of them, so they needed a little clean out (sanding with a dremel stone but done by hand no machine). But the end result is no white markings that I can see.
Screen placement was slightly challenging but do-able, but here's what I did, I attached the screen to the board after I soldering the balance port on, I cut a piece of the pink anti static foam from the DNA200 box, layed the screen in the guides of the case (amazingly accurate placement btw! great job
@BlueridgeDog ) then used the foam between the board and the screen just to keep pressure on it and keep it in place, no glue or tape.
I used a flat top FDV v4 spring loaded 510, 14g copper wire on the 510 which is stranded but incredibly stiff... more flexible wire might have made it easier? I don't really know. This wire I used is plastic jacket, for electrical use, I wouldn't recommend it (or use it again)... in the end, when I cut the silicone wire leads from the battery, there was plenty left over (red/black) that could have been used for the 510 -- Just FYI.
I have a couple area's of accumulated clear spray on the edges where I obviously over coated and it dripped down and settled.. its a little "milky" right now, but they may turn clear after a few days? they may not. In the end, if I wanted it to be perfect, I'm assuming I could have wet sanded it (or at least those areas) and re-sprayed those sides, but I think only one who knows they are there is ME, so I can live with it.
@BlueridgeDog, the design of this box is very nice, my only assessment is the 90 degree angles on the back... if those were rounded it would "feel" much more comfortable in the hand. I'm not a fan of the hard sharp 90 degree angles.
This enclosure and battery (Gens Ace 1300mah) fit's well, I originally thought a large capacity (taller) battery might fit too...but I'm not familiar enough with Lipo's or LiFePo's to know personally. But there seems to me a taller battery might fill the rear of the box and offer slightly more Wh ? but again, I'm no designer.
I would also like to point out how impressed I am with the overall design and print quality of this box, printed at Sculpteo in polished finish, with the exception of sanding the buttons, it was painless. The battery door locking with the clip was brilliant, and REALLY WORKS!! I can't take it off without prying the bottom end up a bit - so two thumbs way up on the design
@BlueridgeDog
Here are my pictures.... (
AGAIN HUGE THANKS TO @Steamer861 WITHOUT HIM, THIS WOULD STILL BE SITTING IN THE DRAWER)
(that mark is a melted spot when I wasn't watching my iron close enough while attaching the 510 wire to the board)
Last quick note on the FDV v4 510, this is the second one I used, and the brass nut that holds the spring ALWAYS comes off (has happened on 2 different v4) and I have to solder weld them back on. Next time I buy 510 I'll get try the Varitube, I've read they're better. And thanks to
@turbocad6 for assisting me on the evolv forum with the balance port polarity question I had. THANKS EVERYONE!
