Chargimg board directly to the batt... It workkksss! Phew. Thank all of you so, so much! I feel like ive taken over this th read with belligerent frantic posts/cries for help... From my phone... Lol. Awkward.
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Great for you....sounds like you have your first successful mod.....what next???
Cleaning off my desk and putting all of my tools away! So much clutter! Now that ive played the Guinea pig,my buddy wants to build one... So ill probably help him... and stalk the forums for another build idea : )
Don't forget to write up your successful mod build in its own thread. It's a requirement
Got my Kayfun Lite sitting on top of my new Milo... man, they are FRIENDS! What an awesome combo! More big thanks to all of you for your help : )
I've been vaping my new box for about a week... got the "phantom button press" issue once when I left Milo in my hot car... at first I was surprised to see "20w" on the display, but I quickly put it together. It went away as it cooled down and I havent had the issues since. I emailed Evolv about 10 days ago but haven't heard anything back. A bit disappointing since I've been an Evolv fanboy since the first Darwin... but at this point I suppose I'll live with the intermittent issue. Maybe this won't be my traveling mod, but she'll be great at home and at work. Lord knows I have 20 other options... lol
hum......you might e-mail Brandon again....I copied your picture and "zoomed in" and (not criticizing your build) noticed solder points show signs of a lot of heating while soldering.....wire also shows a lot of heating as insulation shows melting.....and solder points are not "filled in" on the board (solder does not fill the hole in the board completely)....this can cause intermittent connection or weak connection (cold solder joint)....
you might "wiggle" the "up" wires and see if you get the "phantom press".....
just trying to help ya here and not criticizing....just troubleshooting.....
you might "wiggle" the "up" wires and see if you get the "phantom press".....
just trying to help ya here and not criticizing....just troubleshooting.....
I can handle positive criticism : )
Was working with a horrible, god-awful iron... actually went thru two of them! If I build again, I'll invest in something nicer.
he-he....yep......a good iron is a must......been there, done that....finally got a Weller solder station.....and there are other name brand solder stations out there....
but any working mod is a success....so congrats again on your first build (most peeps start with a less complicated build).....so a 20d mod is a great accomplishment for a first time ever build for ya....pat yourself on the back.....
but any working mod is a success....so congrats again on your first build (most peeps start with a less complicated build).....so a 20d mod is a great accomplishment for a first time ever build for ya....pat yourself on the back.....
Hey Bap.....update on my RSST plaything...... 1.2 ohm coil at 12.5 watts (ribbon and cable)......properly oxidized and coil firing evenly.....muted flavor initially but great vapor.....wicking well.....flavor is getting better with use so seems to be breaking in nicely (about equal to my carto-tanks right now) but am hoping to see the flavor overtake my carto-tank's as it settles in a bit more........no burnt/dry hits......oh, first thing I did was drill the air hole out to get a bit more airy vape....
THX for your recommendations on wick/coil combination........gotta say building a wick and coil is a lot easier than building mods.....
Just a bit of info on my testing of the 20d.......I put the RSST on a DNA20d (older mod using a beta test board that regulates from 6 to 20 watts):
RSST with a 1.2 ohm coil......unregulated below 8.6 watts at 3.2 volts and starts regulating at 8.6 watts (3.3 volts) and graduates up to 20 watts (4.9 volts).....so my coil is probably a touch higher than 1.2 ohm (probably 1.26 ohm)
UPDATE: After vaping for several hours the flavor is really starting to shine.....well pleased at the performance at this point.....my carto-tanks may have found a home buddy......
THX for your recommendations on wick/coil combination........gotta say building a wick and coil is a lot easier than building mods.....
Just a bit of info on my testing of the 20d.......I put the RSST on a DNA20d (older mod using a beta test board that regulates from 6 to 20 watts):
RSST with a 1.2 ohm coil......unregulated below 8.6 watts at 3.2 volts and starts regulating at 8.6 watts (3.3 volts) and graduates up to 20 watts (4.9 volts).....so my coil is probably a touch higher than 1.2 ohm (probably 1.26 ohm)
UPDATE: After vaping for several hours the flavor is really starting to shine.....well pleased at the performance at this point.....my carto-tanks may have found a home buddy......
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Ok on know this off topic but I am losing my mind and it seems like know one will respond to my post about this so thought I might be able to get the attention of the veterans this way for that I apologize ... I build my first dna 20 mod 4 0r 5 days ago. it works great, I posted picks on it, its the yoda dna 20. I got that board in a trade so i thought I would use that one first because it was sencond hand so if i messed up on it or broke it , it would not bother me as much as if it was new. But before i got that board I purchased one from evolve about a montha nd a half ago. so after i finished the 1st I stated on my 2nd dna20 mod. I will just copy and paste my post below for the rest of the info.. again I apologize for being off topic..
Ok, so i just finished up my first dna 20 mod 3 days ago, all is well. No issues at all. works great. So i started on my next one because i got my first DNA20 board/chip from a trade.This one is new never used until I wired this one up. wired it the same way, same buttons. turns on fine. wattage adjust fine. fires fine but as soon as i screw a atomizer or carto etc. the wattage just goes down all the way to 7w as if im holding the down button. Nothing touching the on board buttons, tried disconecting the down button, still does it. but if I unscrew atty it stop lowering wattage. It does not have any error messages on screen, if I hold up button it just stays at that number but if i unscrew atty the numbers go up/screw back on atty ,numbers go down. If i fire it when they are going down it stays at that wattage until I let go of fire button and it DOES vape. Im am lost. has any one had this issue?? any solutions??? I silder fine, I have build plent mods before. Im thinking its the board, I un soldiered all the wires. re soldiered new atty wires and battery wires and tried it. Same thing. I used the on board up/down buttons to get it up to 20 wats. screwed a atty on. Down it goes as if im holding the down button. What does the atomiazer have to do with the down wattage ?? As i said im lost. banging my head on the bench. some one help please
Ok, so i just finished up my first dna 20 mod 3 days ago, all is well. No issues at all. works great. So i started on my next one because i got my first DNA20 board/chip from a trade.This one is new never used until I wired this one up. wired it the same way, same buttons. turns on fine. wattage adjust fine. fires fine but as soon as i screw a atomizer or carto etc. the wattage just goes down all the way to 7w as if im holding the down button. Nothing touching the on board buttons, tried disconecting the down button, still does it. but if I unscrew atty it stop lowering wattage. It does not have any error messages on screen, if I hold up button it just stays at that number but if i unscrew atty the numbers go up/screw back on atty ,numbers go down. If i fire it when they are going down it stays at that wattage until I let go of fire button and it DOES vape. Im am lost. has any one had this issue?? any solutions??? I silder fine, I have build plent mods before. Im thinking its the board, I un soldiered all the wires. re soldiered new atty wires and battery wires and tried it. Same thing. I used the on board up/down buttons to get it up to 20 wats. screwed a atty on. Down it goes as if im holding the down button. What does the atomiazer have to do with the down wattage ?? As i said im lost. banging my head on the bench. some one help please
I've never heard of this type issue but...... gotta say this before trying to help ya figure this out.... on-board buttons should never be operated with the fingers...use a toothpick etc....... with that said...
I guess that the up button raises the wattage correctly and the down button lowers the wattage correctly.... right? (with no auxilliary buttons wired in)
With no atty attached....pressing the fire button gives you an error message to check atomizer....right? and does not change the wattage setting...right?
Please post a good picture of your build for us to look at.....thx
I guess that the up button raises the wattage correctly and the down button lowers the wattage correctly.... right? (with no auxilliary buttons wired in)
With no atty attached....pressing the fire button gives you an error message to check atomizer....right? and does not change the wattage setting...right?
Please post a good picture of your build for us to look at.....thx
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got the last of my parts found and on the way. couldnt find the same batteries but found some 1300mah cells i will rewire to parallel. got some pcb bread board to practice soldering on before i do the dna-20 too. whats the easiest way to size the acrylic? mount it then sand it flush?
Welcome to RBAs, retird. Bap did good to steer you toward the RSST. I use the Bliss dual coil, but my son uses the RSST and really likes it. He also had to drill the air flow hole larger - a lot larger lol.
I use a template. I cut a piece of acrylic, or Lexan, slightly larger than the template, then stick the template to the acrylic using double-sided tape. Then use a heavy duty cutting wheel to shape the piece of acrylic to the size of the template. I use a small rounded bit to cut the USB hole.
I don't know if my pic is sized right, but it should be 38.5mm x 93mm.
I use a template. I cut a piece of acrylic, or Lexan, slightly larger than the template, then stick the template to the acrylic using double-sided tape. Then use a heavy duty cutting wheel to shape the piece of acrylic to the size of the template. I use a small rounded bit to cut the USB hole.
I don't know if my pic is sized right, but it should be 38.5mm x 93mm.
Most parts can be found on this thread with good prices. The switches and fuses are a bit harder to find in small quantity.
auto scroll down. experienced once. removed the down on board button. that is if wirings were ok.
Can the larger of the two milo cases hold two 18650s? How should I do this?
Also I like the tactical switches for the up/down but I'd like a different fire button. I watched a video over a mod called the gadget and the lady said the switch she used was also the same swich lots of other misdeed used.
Sent from Texas
Also I like the tactical switches for the up/down but I'd like a different fire button. I watched a video over a mod called the gadget and the lady said the switch she used was also the same swich lots of other misdeed used.
Sent from Texas
Cool thing about the DNA 20 switches is they carry no load to atty, so any switch will work as long as you have a place to put it.
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