Most recent battery explosion
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Watch the part between 4:04 and 4:47 in the video below. In one of his Live Q&A videos that I can't remember which, Mooch further explained that the optimum voltage cut-off (i.e. in pure terms of the best tradeoff between vaping time and cycle life) also depends on how hard you push the battery in question so basically if you aren't really stressing the battery at all, discharging it to 2.8V doesn't cause any noticeable faster aging whereas if you are asking a lot from the battery by running it fairly close to the CDR, you can extend cycle life by stopping at a higher voltage than the 3.0V that he recommended in the video below. For example you can stop at 3.2V and get improved cycle life as a result or, depending on how much more current you draw from the battery, possibly even higher than that and still get some improved cycle life as a result from that. But because they are rated by the manufacturer to be discharged down to 2.5V, the only factual or real concern in this regard is reduced cycle life. I.e., not battery venting. At least not until the battery is starting to show clear signs of nearing end of life.
EDIT: Another way to stress a battery more is chain vaping.
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I can't recall seeing one. I tend to rip the box open, remove the contents I ordered, and trash the trash. I scan the shipping document and then trash that, too. I can usually print a copy off the web site I ordered from, but haven't needed it.
In theory, I agree with you. It's been years ago when it happened so I don't remember for sure. I think it was either an 18350 Efest or AW battery.. It may well have had a slightly damaged wrap. I know that there was only one penny in my pocket, though.
I received just a first degree burn which I was able to treat myself. Reddened skin and burning pain for a day or two, no blistering.
I was cleaning out my vaping cabinet today and ran across a box with eGo coils, clearomizers, and various other stuff I haven't seen in years. There were two 18650's I used to use in my Provari and my Sigelei Telescope. One was an AW flat top and the other was a button top. I stuck them in my charger and let them run for a few minutes, then looked at the stats. The AW was reading 563 ohms internal resistance. The other was at around 100 ohms. I wrapped them both in duct tape and trashed them!
I prefer discharging them down to 0v first with a small load. As they are far safer and stable that way.
While a case can be made to discharge LiPo battery packs before recycling to reduce the danger in case their fragile plastic "pouch" is penetrated, there's just no need to discharge our cylindrical batteries. Their steel case protects them from physical abuse and we only need to add some tape to cover the top to prevent short-circuits.
Battery Musing: Can we use salt water to discharge our batteries before recycling th
It isn't the casing that I worry about so much. Although there is always a chance that while it is being transported, an accident could happen and crush the cell. But even our cells can fail just sitting there. That is why there are many restrictions on transporting them. Some carriers won't even ship our cells period.
My main reason for draining them down to zero is they have no energy left whatsoever to do anything. So even if the unthinkable happens, they still won't do anything but just sit there.
Oh yes! I don't know who thought that one up. But that was always a bad idea. And besides what Mooch mentioned, there are youtube videos showing that it really doesn't drain too well either. Just bad all around.
Yeah, the saltwater method just causes any metal to corrode quickly. In lipos you can actually corrode away the metal battery tabs before it is even fully discharged making it so it cannot be discharged any further without risking personal injury.
If you must discharge them, hooking up a lightbulb to a battery sled (or connectors for lipos) is your best and safest method.
If you must discharge them, hooking up a lightbulb to a battery sled (or connectors for lipos) is your best and safest method.
Do you know why it isn't safe to walk in the woods at night?
If a billiards table falls out of a tree, you're dead!
Good post. On some of my rigs I do push my 18650's near their CDC limits and chain vape as well, thus my low voltage comment for 3.4-3.5v. Years ago I pulled my batts down to 3.0v regularly but soon discovered I was buying batts regularly too.
Mooch is the battery god!!
Nowadays I hardly ever use a regulated mod anymore because I'm almost strictly mech now, but on my Wismec Reuleaux RX300 equipped with 4 × Sony VTC5A batteries, around 3.4V-3.5V is where the power output capability has grown already far too weak to still be able to get a decent enough vape out of it at 170 watts in wattage mode and using a custom preheat (with ArcticFox) that reaches briefly up to 128% of the wattage setting. It just ignores the preheat immediately as soon as it can no longer attain the power output required for that, and it lets you know by displaying the 'Battery Weak' message, but I don't even need to look, as the vape gradually starts getting flimsier even before it reaches down to 3.7V. So basically it works kinda similar to how a mech works.Good post. On some of my rigs I do push my 18650's near their CDC limits and chain vape as well, thus my low voltage comment for 3.4-3.5v. Years ago I pulled my batts down to 3.0v regularly but soon discovered I was buying batts regularly too.
Mooch is the battery god!!
The results may appear to be similar to a mech, but we both know it doesn't actually work like a mech.So basically it works kinda similar to how a mech works.
I used a Wismec Reuleaux RX200. I didn't add the ArcticFox firmware. For being a 3-battery regulated mod it had terrible battery efficiency. I could only get a days use from the three batteries (all Samsung 30Q 3000mah 15A). And I was only using it at 30 watts.
By comparison, I get a full days use from a single battery (same Samsung 30Q) at 30 watts with my JAC DNA75W. Now someone explain why that is?
You already said it, very poor efficiency. I used my two RX200 when they first came out for about a month. But I also shortly afterwards purchased a Reuleaux DNA200 too. The RX200 was vaping about 15ml per charge and the Reuleaux DNA200 was vaping about 45ml per charge.
Different mods can have a different voltage cutoff, too. My guess is the DNA has better battery efficiency and lower voltage cutoffs, both which can result in longer battery use.
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I was only referring to the fact you can feel it on the vape when it's almost time to change out the batteries the same way you can feel it on a mech.
Simple, it's because with the RX200 the 3 batteries are hooked up in a series config so the mAh is not tripled, unlike with a parallel config. I.e. only the input voltage that the board receives from the combined batteries is tripled, so, because the board needs to buck the voltage down a lot, the board is wasting more of the efficiency that it has, which isn't a whole lot to begin with, as the board simply isn't designed to be super efficient. Instead, it is a budget-oriented device that's designed to deliver fairly high watts, while still being able to offer a truly amazing feature set that, specifically in its price bracket, factually is miles upon miles ahead of so-called 'competition' (as that's irrefutably being revealed by ArcticFox despite all the hate that gets spread by some certain 'reviewers' who are easier to bribe than many think, and who make it their first hobby to remain in full denial about that by gushing over their own technical competences when the reality is that these competences are nothing more than a see-through smokescreen, I digress).
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