MVP Owners Group-into the next generation

[CountBoredom]

My biggest gripe about the MVP 3 is that the blue is so bright compared to the nice, elegant metallic blue of the 2.0. Trying to decide between the Blue and the Silver for my second, since my first is black.

 

[Puff2K]

I'll be buying a second 20w in whatever colors are available but I do wish that the 20 had the same color choices as the Shine.

 

[Peter_C]

I'm wondering what will be innokin reply to the flood of high power boxes we have seen of late.
I vape for the nic not for glamour, I have few of the latest 60+ W boxes and also the Atlantis and a Goblin, but I use the Nautiluses 99% of the time at 10W. And so, the majority of the vapers I know. If innokin wants to play wise, Microsoft-style, they may sell an high power box with temperature control for the use of the masses. Innokin to us means well built equipment, built to last, with a steel connector and a industrial-quality battery. Use a properly designed electronics, truly buck-boost with pure DC output, precise volt/watt/ohm reader. Since I believe the actual technology for temperature control is a losing compromise, I bet they are working on something that will allow widespread use of temperature control.
Proper temperature control can be achieved in two ways; one is to add a termocouple to the atomiser, but it would require a new breed of atomiser with four wire connector. Another is keep using Nichrome or Kanthal as heating wire, but this would require a special front-end followed by a DSP-like processor. Evolv had to use Ni200 wire because it provides a larger resistance variation with temperature. The NiCr small resistance changes, once amplified, were meaningless without proper processing, and there is not enough processing power in actual microcontrollers to achieve proper temperature control with common atomisers. So, based on my design experience, I would bet we will see sooner or later - an Innokin box capable of temperature control with a normal heating wire. Just a guess, but a reasonable one: there are already on the market cheap DSP chips used in audio applications, they would need of an adapted firmware and interface to be used as temperature signal processors.

To be honest, why do we even need/want 'temp control' 99% of the time? As, like you, most of the time I run my SubTank Mini (stock OOC coils) at 10 watts, so in that type of case, what's the point?

 

[Peter_C]

This is easily one of if not the best bang for your buck in vapedome today!

Or, go to ProVape E-Cigarettes: Buy Electronic Cigarettes & Vapor Smokeless Cigs and then to the 'deals' page - you will be shocked at the deep discounts available. Granted, still more $$ but with both warranty and great service available here in the US, it's becoming a option to consider for more and more people. I love my MVP20W for car trips, camping and as a backup batty for my iPhone too.

Only issue and it's my problem, not a device problem, is after having 'CTS' surgery to both hands on the 23rd, it's still too painful to press the fire button on the MVP20W, but not my P3.

 

[VapieDan]

To be honest, why do we even need/want 'temp control' 99% of the time? As, like you, most of the time I run my SubTank Mini (stock OOC coils) at 10 watts, so in that type of case, what's the point?

You are correct. Low wattage vaping does not need it.

 

[PaulBHC]

If I had tons of money I would get the titanium P3 for $250 and a AGA ti to go with it.

 

[PaulBHC]

To be honest, why do we even need/want 'temp control' 99% of the time? As, like you, most of the time I run my SubTank Mini (stock OOC coils) at 10 watts, so in that type of case, what's the point?

For that 1% if it saves your lungs or your life. If it does.

Got up this morning and found my wife's mech on a note in the bathroom. Tasted bad some time after I went to bed. Vertical coil and the wick fell out somehow. I'll bet it tasted bad. Temp control would have prevented that.

 

[ST Dog]

Paul, I would hope she only hit it once like that,

Temp control wouldn't keep the wick in place so you'd still have the note.

 

[VapieDan]

If I had tons of money I would get the titanium P3 for $250 and a AGA ti to go with it.

I'm just not convinced it will vape any better than any other 20 watt device. The menu system looks wacky too.

 

[pufZeppelin]

so I’m really liking the looks/specs of the new Innokin iSub Tank
looks made for the MVP (including colors)
$price$, break resistance PC tank, non removeable drip tip,
4ml capacity, big symmetrical airflow, easy fill...

the coil is what I question – “Can I Rebuild It” ?
it looks sorta the ‘odd’ bird for sure…
watched a few videos, but no one has tore down the coil yet,
so I will wait to see…

it would be a deal-breaker if I can’t rebuild it
because I am not going to take on yet another throw away style…

•singel horizontal coil design (cool, just like the Subtank !)
•claiming the PC ‘should’ be tank cracker proof (waiting on tests)
•iSub glass & iSub metal already showing up (I’m not interested)
•new ‘coil insert’ design (seems logical, simple)

- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PzwdAS9BECc

- http://www.innokin.com/media/com_hikashop/upload/isub1.jpg

- http://g01.s.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1uT.3HpXXXXX8XpXXq6xXFXXXA/222238159/HTB1uT.3HpXXXXX8XpXXq6xXFXXXA.jpg

 

[SouthernMissfan]

I meed some help. I recently bought a MVP 3.0 last month online. Everything had been working fine other than the coil readings being all over the place. I know that they are suppose to have a + or - of .2 on the reading, but it sometimes is all over the place. The battery also seems to be inaccurate with its remaining life when it reaches 3.75ish V. The new problem that just started happening ago is that it is turning itself off, without me clicking the button three times. I have read similar posts on here, but others were slightly different than mine. The crazy thing is, the device will not turn back on unless I plug it into a wall charger. I was told that it could be because the coil reading dropped under 0.4, which is when it cuts off, but my 0.5 coil OCC typically reads between 0.8 to 0.9, but sometimes over 1. I have never seen the coil drop below 0.5, I have never even seen my 0.5 coil read at 0.5. I am using a Kanger Subtank Mini. Has anyone else experienced this problem. My Gladius tank works fine on the battery, and it never shuts off when I use it. I need help figuring this out.

 

[CountBoredom]

I meed some help. I recently bought a MVP 3.0 last month online. Everything had been working fine other than the coil readings being all over the place. I know that they are suppose to have a + or - of .2 on the reading, but it sometimes is all over the place. The battery also seems to be inaccurate with its remaining life when it reaches 3.75ish V. The new problem that just started happening ago is that it is turning itself off, without me clicking the button three times. I have read similar posts on here, but others were slightly different than mine. The crazy thing is, the device will not turn back on unless I plug it into a wall charger. I was told that it could be because the coil reading dropped under 0.4, which is when it cuts off, but my 0.5 coil OCC typically reads between 0.8 to 0.9, but sometimes over 1. I have never seen the coil drop below 0.5, I have never even seen my 0.5 coil read at 0.5. I am using a Kanger Subtank Mini. Has anyone else experienced this problem. My Gladius tank works fine on the battery, and it never shuts off when I use it. I need help figuring this out.

Since the problem does not seem to affect your Gladius, I would suspect the tank as being the problem. It sounds as (A) if the pin of your subtank isn't making a good connection with the center pin of the MVP's 510 connection, (B) that your OCC head (if you are using such) is not making a proper connection with the pin on the inside of the airflow controller, or (C) that you have a short or other defect in the coil itself (whether inside the OCC head or in the RBA section if that is what you are using).

If you are using an OCC head, can you replicate the problem while using a different head?

 

[SouthernMissfan]

Since the problem does not seem to affect your Gladius, I would suspect the tank as being the problem. It sounds as (A) if the pin of your subtank isn't making a good connection with the center pin of the MVP's 510 connection, (B) that your OCC head (if you are using such) is not making a proper connection with the pin on the inside of the airflow controller, or (C) that you have a short or other defect in the coil itself (whether inside the OCC head or in the RBA section if that is what you are using).

If you are using an OCC head, can you replicate the problem while using a different head?

It has happened with several 0.5 occ coils. I have not used the rba coil since this has started happening. Could it be dangerous and should I potentially use the threading connecter that came with the tank?

 

[Capt.shay]

It has happened with several 0.5 occ coils. I have not used the rba coil since this has started happening. Could it be dangerous and should I potentially use the threading connecter that came with the tank?

I think you have a bad unit and I would get it replaced. It is new, it should work correctly. Your dealer or Innokin will take it back not problem. It sounds like a connection problem but who cares, it is new, replace it.

The crazy thing with the needing to put it on charge to reset was a glitch we saw in the 2.0 It appears to be transient and occurs when the device detects a short.

 

[SouthernMissfan]

I think you have a bad unit and I would get it replaced. It is new, it should work correctly. Your dealer or Innokin will take it back not problem. It sounds like a connection problem but who cares, it is new, replace it.

The crazy thing with the needing to put it on charge to reset was a glitch we saw in the 2.0 It appears to be transient and occurs when the device detects a short.

I have been using the thread adapter that came with the battery, and it is working just fine now and not turning off. Looks goofy as hell, but the coil readings are still all over the place. Thinking there is something wrong with battery, unfortunately.

 

[CountBoredom]

I have been using the thread adapter that came with the battery, and it is working just fine now and not turning off. Looks goofy as hell, but the coil readings are still all over the place. Thinking there is something wrong with battery, unfortunately.

If it has the problem with only the one tank, it is the tank that is the problem and replacing the device will not solve the problem. Since you have tried several heads, it is likely not to be a shorting problem, but rather a connection problem between the head and the pin in the airflow controller or between the pin of the airflow controller and the firing pin of the device.

I would first remove the airflow controller (the base of the subtank mini), thoroughly wash and dry it, blowing into it from the top to blow out any excess moisture. Before replacing the head, make sure that the bottom is completely clean and free of any dirt or gunk. Also, make sure to screw the head back into the base firmly to ensure it is in all the way.

If this does not solve the problem, you can also try to push the pin of the airflow controller out just a little bit. The handle of the blue screwdriver that came with your subtank should be the perfect size for this. Do not push the pin out too far--just enough that it is sticking out beyond the threads of the 510 connector. Then replace the head and try again.

 

[pufZeppelin]

I have been using the thread adapter that came with the battery, and it is working just fine now and not turning off. Looks goofy as hell,
but the coil readings are still all over the place.
Thinking there is something wrong with battery, unfortunately.

well now, that sux
where did you get it ??

I agree it sounds like a device glitch (needs replaced)
I’d go with Capt’n advice and procure another one
tell your vendor, they SHOULD fix your issue

don’t hesitate, sooner the better…

good luck

 

[Rourke]

i will be getting my MVP 3 on Thursday, after reading many reviews. Main complaint about it was the price to the bang of the buck. I also bought it for the ability to charge my phone in a pinch.
Are there any other big negatives people run into? Thread is quite long, and have 14 bajillion other threads to get through next couple of days. Will be mounting the Kanger Mini subtank, hope it is a good combo.

I have had the MVP 3 and sub-tank mini for over a month and it vapes great. I had bought the MVP 3 because I love the built in charging cable in order to charge my phone or whatever in a pinch, but honestly because of the size and weight I never take it out of the house.

 

[fliphusker]

I have had the MVP 3 and sub-tank mini for over a month and it vapes great. I had bought the MVP 3 because I love the built in charging cable in order to charge my phone or whatever in a pinch, but honestly because of the size and weight I never take it out of the house.

Same exact reason I got the MVP, have not messed with that part, been too busy with the new found love.
Just got the protank mini and MVP 3 today. I kick myself for not going this route long ago. Running Mount Baker Vapor 50/50 12 nic blueberry. It absolutely rocks with the .5 OCC. Definitely do not think I can handle doing my normal 18-24 nic. It would probably blow me out of the water. If/when it gets better then this with the RBA, going to be hard to put it down. Great warm vape, just like what I have been missing. Running at between 20-24 watts.
Vaped all day and only dropped 2 bars. Only drained about 3/4 a tank, so guess should be happy about that. The mini and MVP 3 are more then advertised. Definitely would recommend both.

 

[DoomiteAsh]

I've gotta brag a bit now, got my second Subtank mini running on my MVP 3 tonight. The two-tone O-rings and the CF drip tip make the whole setup pop if you ask me!

Sent from Doomite Central!