My latest mod, inspired by all of you.

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Wildsky

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"The connection thing for the atomizer was tricky - the pic's I see have only two connections sticking down from it. Mine had three."

It is probably this. There is some info on this ... Will have a look ...
You guys are so awesome!
I have another one of those N thingies, I did buy two so I can take a picture of it not connected to anything if that helps.

My hubby said it looked like one of the three connection thingies comes from the center, the other from the side kinda, and the third one also looks like it comes from the center point. I dunno - very confusing, but I looked at the pics on page 11 (apostle) and it looked like I did it correctly. I'll go quote his post to bring the pic's here to the end.
 

Wildsky

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Just made another one so took some piccys of how its wired before i placed it in the battery box.

I went for the tactile switch this time rather than the press to make switch, Dunno which i prefer tbh, the tactile switch works better but the little maplins miniature push to make switch is more robust.

They may be helpful to some :)

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See the one connection on that thingie looks like its coming out the side, the other is on the end.
I know I'm talking "girl" and not making much sense here! :D
 

nicowolf

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Yeah I didn't know which was on and which was off so I tried in both positions.

I wasn't sure on the tact switch - if it has one side supposed to be on one side or another, but it didn't seem to be so I just connected it.
The connection thing for the atomizer was tricky - the pic's I see have only two connections sticking down from it. Mine had three.

Judging by the pictures the point connected to the center of that thing, were connected to the red wire, and the one connection that came out the side kinda - connected to the black, so that is how I connected it up - otherwise everything to me looks fine.


For the switch you used, it does not make any difference which side is which.

For the connector: Maybe this will help.
DCJackDiagramed.jpg


For the 901 we use Size N Coaxial Power Jack what would a person use for a 801 atomizer?

For the 801, people are using a 1/4" Mono Jack and modifying it. Here is a link to a thread I started with another possibility.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/15696-801-connector.html
 

nicowolf

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Do you need to take off the nut so it can screw on more fully ?

Nope. It actually fits perfectly with the nut. I originally started taking it off when I was mounting my atomizer connector on the box instead of recessing it. The plastic from the box took up the same amount of space as the nut.
04-25-09032.jpg
 

Wildsky

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OK nico then I did it wrong. I took a picture, I connected to that piece you just now said to break off..

SANY1150.jpg


I connected the black to that point near my thumb in the pic. the red wire to the one on the oposite side.

See the pics make it look like the connection parts are on oposite sides from each other and not at 45 degrees.... does that make sense?
 

nicowolf

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OK nico then I did it wrong. I took a picture, I connected to that piece you just now said to break off..

SANY1150.jpg


I connected the black to that point near my thumb in the pic. the red wire to the one on the oposite side


Positive wire goes to the post that is on the left in this photo. Negative wire can either go directly to the threads, or to the post that is in the background in this picture (this is Apostle51's method and requires the solder bridge shown in my diagram photo above).
 

Wildsky

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Me too, but I gotta get to bed. My alarm clock goes off in 4 hours.:(
8-o I haven't glued anything in - doesn't seem to need it, I'll wait to break off that connection and re-do it when I have the batteries on hand to try. Perhaps both those two conections are correct and perhaps it doesn't matter which one you connect to? I HOPE! LOL :D
 

TnA

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Hi guys just a heads up. I seen a lot of people complaining it takes a long time to get there batteries from deal extreme. Why not pay a few dollars extra and get the m from Battery Junction they have the Ultra fire 14500 AA sized 3.6V Li-Ion Rechargeable Battery 900 mAh CR14500 in stock. They ship from Connecticut and they ship fast. I placed an order with them and they delivered to my door in two days. Just thought I mention it as a lot of people here think the only place they get these is at deal extreme. Ice:)

Wildsky, great looking job and your pics are awesome! :D:thumb: I did notice in your first pics that you did not choose to break off one of the negative terminals (which doesn't matter) of your Size N switch. However, I just wanted to make sure you remembered to drip some solder to create a "bridge" from the negative terminal to the ring so that you have continuity (or that you soldered your negative wire to the ring/threads of the switch). :)

Ice199, with all the talk about Deal Extreme, I completely forgot about Battery Junction!! :p Thanks for the reminder/tip! I placed my first Deal Extreme order on the 5th and still have no idea if it even left China, yet!!! :mad: Think I'm gonna go order from Battery Junction and see if it can beat both of my Deal Extreme orders! :D
 

Wildsky

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Wildsky, great looking job and your pics are awesome! :D:thumb: I did notice in your first pics that you did not choose to break off one of the negative terminals (which doesn't matter) of your Size N switch. However, I just wanted to make sure you remembered to drip some solder to create a "bridge" from the negative terminal to the ring so that you have continuity (or that you soldered your negative wire to the ring/threads of the switch). :)
:( Can you explain more on the bridge? what ring do I want to bridge to the negative terminal?
 

Wildsky

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TnA

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Wildsky, sorry...didn't realize my post was so late after everyone else's. You can tell which of the three tabs is the positive connection because you can see it connected to center of the bottom of the switch (if you put the switch face down with the tabs sticking up at you).

As for the other two tabs, you can choose to connect to either one, but you must still create a "bridge" to make continuity from those tabs to the actual threads of the switch, which acts as your negative.

To do this, orient the switch so the positive tab is at your 12 o'clock position. At your 9 o'clock position, you'll notice a piece of metal running up the side of the switch and under the bezel ring. This is where you need to create your "bridge". So, what I did (taken from Apo's post) was melt solder at the point where the metal runs under the metal bezel ring. This creates a connection between the threads of the switch and your other remaining negative tab. Now you should have not problems w/ your connections! :)

I also chose to break off one of the unneccessary negative tabs. Which one you choose to break off is immaterial, but I always break off the one at the 6 o'clock position. I also take that broken off tab and run it under the bezel ring where I make my solder bridge so that I'm using less solder to make the connection.
 
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