My thoughts about sub-ohm and latest VV/VW devices...
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Having only read the specs once, I may not be recalling this correctly, but unless you're using Nickel 200, you aren't going to be in temp control mode. How likely is it that every user is going to be so conscientious that ALL their toppers have that wire? Or just decide that a flavor they want to vape at the moment, in a different topper with kanthal, is what they want on top at the moment? And then crank it up to enjoy, thinking the temp control will protect them?
Apparently, the DNA 40 smart chip will alert you if it detects a new coil and ask you if you're using a different coil; I saw that feature on the video. And I don't believe it will run a nickel coil without temp control--I may be wrong about that, though. But you have to manually disable temp control if you want to run a non-nickel coil (like kanthal).
My question is what will happen if someone, by mistake, puts a topper with .1Ω nickel coil on a mechanical mod????
Woooh Nelly..Don't say ANY! The Reo has that famous dropping spring you may have forgotten about. Any short that spring collapses and it shuts off. I'm sure that pdib would also mention his Dibi that is fused. Maybe a few others out there also. I've seen melted circuitry in VV/VW pics posted quite a few times.
IMO it's more about the accumulative effect of all of the extreme things that seem to be advocated as "safe" these days. (and that's just one example)
So now put it on stacked batteries where 8.4v is possible, or parallel batteries where 150 amps is possible.
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One way to look at it is to think of the battery as a "watt" container, then do the math to cipher out current at varying voltages (not taking into account electrical losses). A single 3.7 volt battery would have to put at least 10.8 amps to make 40 watts, and more current as its voltage sags. The DNA40 requires a battery that is capable of at LEAST a 16 amp CDR for this reason.
Although I don't own either of those (but I'm considering adding a VF to my arsenal because I like the look) the DNA40 boards require 3.1 - 4.3 VDC input, so the batteries would have to be in parallel.
Yeah thank you I'm starting to get the gist of the way the things work. Like I said I've only owned the VW mods that only went to 15W and didn't care for those at all. So I never perused any others. I'm intrigued about all these new high powered ones but they are a bit intimidating.
Having only read the specs once, I may not be recalling this correctly, but unless you're using Nickel 200, you aren't going to be in temp control mode. How likely is it that every user is going to be so conscientious that ALL their toppers have that wire? Or just decide that a flavor they want to vape at the moment, in a different topper with kanthal, is what they want on top at the moment? And then crank it up to enjoy, thinking the temp control will protect them?
Still won't go above 40 watts. Of all the "high watt" mods out there I think this will probably prove to be the safest. Nothing is 100% but if I know these folks it's probably as close as you can get. The ones that scare me the most are the Chinese knock offs and such. Who the heck knows about their quality control?
Sent while presently sitting on my .... watching mind numbing prattle on the TV. 257 Channels and nothing on.
I agree. I've seen 100 and 200 watt Chinese mods--not knocking China, BTW, we wouldn't be vaping at all without them--but I can't, for the life of me, understand why anyone would need (or want) 200 watts...
And thank you for your service!
I agree. I've seen 100 and 200 watt Chinese mods--not knocking China, BTW, we wouldn't be vaping at all without them--but I can't, for the life of me, understand why anyone would need (or want) 200 watts...
And thank you for your service!
Making cofee and toast? ; D
Sent while presently sitting on my .... watching mind numbing prattle on the TV. 257 Channels and nothing on.
Yeah, and considering how fast vaping at 25-30w drains the battery I can't even imagine how short a time the battery would last when vaping at 150, 200, 250w (in the hypothetical situation where you could actually get wicking and air flow to work properly at those levels). One hit? Half a hit?I agree. I've seen 100 and 200 watt Chinese mods--not knocking China, BTW, we wouldn't be vaping at all without them--but I can't, for the life of me, understand why anyone would need (or want) 200 watts...
And thank you for your service!
The only dual coil atomizers I have and use currently are the Origen2 b/f and Magma b/f converted for the Reo Grand.
Although Reo's are now sub ohms capable, w/ collapsible safety spring, it will not handle super low sub ohms without issue.
I'll have to post this to the Reo threads, but think this is relevant to this one:
-in my experience if I run a dual coil = .25 ohms the vape is nice ... fast response, cool full vape BUT it drains batts really fast, AND it heats up the top of the IMR 1600 AW nipple top. I mean too hot, so I upped it to .5 ohms for safer use... and it seems not as satisfactory.
>I am not a super sub ohms user, but in this case I like that .25 vape.
It could be the inherent resistance in the Reo (whatever that is; someone said 64w is max) so I'd have to try it on a high watt or mech mod to know if it would vape differently...
My point is yes, I can see why some will like a very low sub ohms vape (well over 50w)
Although Reo's are now sub ohms capable, w/ collapsible safety spring, it will not handle super low sub ohms without issue.
I'll have to post this to the Reo threads, but think this is relevant to this one:
-in my experience if I run a dual coil = .25 ohms the vape is nice ... fast response, cool full vape BUT it drains batts really fast, AND it heats up the top of the IMR 1600 AW nipple top. I mean too hot, so I upped it to .5 ohms for safer use... and it seems not as satisfactory.
>I am not a super sub ohms user, but in this case I like that .25 vape.
It could be the inherent resistance in the Reo (whatever that is; someone said 64w is max) so I'd have to try it on a high watt or mech mod to know if it would vape differently...
My point is yes, I can see why some will like a very low sub ohms vape (well over 50w)
It can run nickel without temp control. It's pretty educational actually, to see how the resistance rises with temperature. It will in most cases automatically sense whether it is kanthal or nickel and switch modes accordingly, otherwise you can manually turn temperature control off.
On a mech the coil will fire and either burn out quickly, or fire at an increasingly lower wattage as the coil heats up.
Great post, Rusirius. You presented the information well and covered most everything that a vaper needs to understand to be informed. You also may have broken the record for the most likes on a single post, at least in the short time period that they were given!
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Believe it or not, nothing bad. Some people have been using 0.08 ohm nickel coils on the DNA40 with no problem. You could even safely use one on a mod, with a safe battery, even the purple eFests that are labeled as 35 amps but really aren't (35 amp pulse, 20 amp continuous).
Nickel increases in resistance rather significantly as the temperature increases - that's how the temp control on the DNA 40 works. If put on a mech mod and fired, that coil will be 0.08 ohms for far less than a second. The initial amp draw may be quite high, but only for a very short time. Using that much wattage, the coils will hit 400-500 degrees really quick, and the resistance will climb considerably. Without double checking the math, my guess is the coil resistance will hit around 0.3 ohms in less than two seconds.
For most batteries, 0.3 ohm is plenty safe.
BOOM!
I agree. I've seen 100 and 200 watt Chinese mods--not knocking China, BTW, we wouldn't be vaping at all without them--but I can't, for the life of me, understand why anyone would need (or want) 200 watts...
And thank you for your service!
I think that is the mines bigger than your's thing..not sure though.
Thanks. This is where my brain needs to be reprogrammed. When I see a .1Ω coil I think hard short.
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