I am not there to see what she is doing with them and I have told her to depress the tabs when removing them.
MyJet - Wismec
- Thread starter drysprocket
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I have went back to using the myjet with easy vapors tru cig juice. Really good tobacco and only 35 bucks for 140 ml!! That makes it to where I can afford enough pods to use it full time. Some pods I get 1 and a half refill and some i get close to 3 refills before I get the burned taste. But since I found a good cheap juice, I can afford to use this full time and with the pcc, works out great!
Haha well yes it's easier just to buy pods. But at 14 to 20 bucks for a five pack a week for empty pods it starts getting up there with the cost of smoking adding juice so I rewick and would rebuild if I figure out how to do that reliably.
Yes David my GF likes them but with the leaks and the battery problems and now the cost she is not as pleased. I keep saying it is time for a regulated tube MOD with a Nautilus Mini type tank and if she goes through a coil a week that would be a lot. I get 2-3 weeks out of mine.
I'm still trying to get equivalent flavor out of my Kayfun Mini V3 clone, still not there. No way I can approach the flavor with my nautilus mini, Triton mini, or kabuki clone though the nautilus coils are sooo convenient
Im waiting on the Myjets to fall out of favor due to costs and the costs of pods to drop as they dump inventory. Then I'll really load up lol
Local vape shop who was giving my GF the $20 price because of me can't get them from his regular distributor and told her they are coming out with something new. For a Pod system I will admit they have a decent flavor but in mu opinion it doesn't compare to my Sub Ohm tanks or even the Nautilus Minis or the N-X.
David how is the kabuki clone compared with a nautilus 2?
I'm using salts in the myjet An everything else so I go thru coils kind of quick. Rewicking is easy but I wish I had the patience to rebuild one cause I've seen some great little builds in some with hotwires an such
I'm using salts in the myjet An everything else so I go thru coils kind of quick. Rewicking is easy but I wish I had the patience to rebuild one cause I've seen some great little builds in some with hotwires an such
Hey Nesta I don't have the Nautilus 2 but someone on here said they thought using the 0.7 ohm coil it was a slightly better than the nautilus mini. I posted elsewhere I did a blind taste test of the nautilus mini, Kabuki clone, and the Triton Mini using the same acrylic drip tips, 1.8 ohm nautilus coils,and NET juice and it was a dead heat in flavor. The kabuki clone did have a smoother draw, but I prefer the Triton Mini for the top fill. I may pick up a Nautilus 2 but my prediction it's the same flavor with a 1.8 ohm coil lol. I vape NETs and my own Diy nic salts juice, and replace wicks and coils often so I'm moving more to perfecting Kayfun V3 Mini coils for optimum flavor and reduced coil cost (flavor much better than the nautilus coils but not as good as the Myjet) while reserving Myjets for stealth vaping during the day.
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I have the opposite opinion Steve, vaping NETs and even my diy nic salts juice the nautilus mini coils don't even come close to the Myjet for flavor in MTL style vaping, and certainly not on par with kayfuns, and I've been using Nautilus coils for years now. The only subohm tank I've had is the kangertech subtank mini and I wasn't impressed with that, though I have tried some others that were good but subohms not my style. I do about 2 ml a day high nic salts MTL low power these days.
I even was using a myJET right after I posted yesterday and it is just OK compared to the other devices I have. Sure it will be great for when I need to stealth vape but so does my iStick TC40W. Personal preference I guess.
I'm vaping NET in a Kayfun Mini V3 clone sitting on an iStick TC40W right now, nothing wrong with that setup
I was able to successfully recoil a myjet pod today, using 31 AWG Nichrome 80 round wire from Kidney Puncher. Resistance came out to 1.3 to 1.4 ohms, pretty much like the originals. It was no easy task, too about 45 minutes to figure it out. Yet it's vaping like a brand new pod, just awesome. About as much art as there was science in recoiling. Now to see if it leaks any out of the bottom pins.
Next time I do it, I will probably be able to do 2 pods in an hour, putting my labor worth about $5.50/hr after subtracting for cotton and wire, haha. I figure if I go into a production mode, I will be able to do at least 5 an hour, putting my labor worth about $14 an hour which still makes it a hobby and not a living If it doesn't leak. We will see.
Next time I do it, I will probably be able to do 2 pods in an hour, putting my labor worth about $5.50/hr after subtracting for cotton and wire, haha. I figure if I go into a production mode, I will be able to do at least 5 an hour, putting my labor worth about $14 an hour which still makes it a hobby and not a living
If it doesn't leak. We will see.Nice. Did u get to check the ohms? Try doing something twisted , maybe u have to use kanthol to keep the ohm up but maybe it'll vape awesome. Maybe not tho maybe not enough power I guess
I was able to successfully recoil a myjet pod today, using 31 AWG Nichrome 80 round wire from Kidney Puncher. Resistance came out to 1.3 to 1.4 ohms, pretty much like the originals. It was no easy task, too about 45 minutes to figure it out. Yet it's vaping like a brand new pod, just awesome. About as much art as there was science in recoiling. Now to see if it leaks any out of the bottom pins.
Next time I do it, I will probably be able to do 2 pods in an hour, putting my labor worth about $5.50/hr after subtracting for cotton and wire, haha. I figure if I go into a production mode, I will be able to do at least 5 an hour, putting my labor worth about $14 an hour which still makes it a hobby and not a living
You "unpinch" the metal rods that hold the wire and repinch?
I wen't with the same coil build as the original, its the best flavor I've had, not gonna mess with that!
No, I tried that, it didn't work for me. I basically used the technique in this video, but with the round wire. I built the coil first, then put the leads into the holes, bent them, then put in the pins. Have to hold the coil leads bent over as you push the pin in or it will push it out. Also need to keep the coil close to the top of the pins. I had to use a toothpick to push the coil leads away from the barrel to prevent a short, the leads run right beside of the pins up to the coils. I then cut the leads close to the pin. The flat wire will probably work better (have some on order), as I'm getting a very slight amount of seepage now out of the pins, not enough to cause a problem though.
That's not an ideal build running wires beside of the pins, so I also have some 16 AWG blunt tip needles on order, I want to see if those are the right size to use as a crimp on the pin and the coil wire, I will cut to size if they fit. Have you tried that yet? By the way I think my coil vapes smoother than the original, Cotton Bacon V2 wick, here's some pics, click thumbnail to enlarge:
I wen't with the same coil build as the original, its the best flavor I've had, not gonna mess with that!
No, I tried that, it didn't work for me. I basically used the technique in this video, but with the round wire. I built the coil first, then put the leads into the holes, bent them, then put in the pins. Have to hold the coil leads bent over as you push the pin in or it will push it out. Also need to keep the coil close to the top of the pins. I had to use a toothpick to push the coil leads away from the barrel to prevent a short, the leads run right beside of the pins up to the coils. I then cut the leads close to the pin. The flat wire will probably work better (have some on order), as I'm getting a very slight amount of seepage now out of the pins, not enough to cause a problem though.
That's not an ideal build running wires beside of the pins, so I also have some 16 AWG blunt tip needles on order, I want to see if those are the right size to use as a crimp on the pin and the coil wire, I will cut to size if they fit. Have you tried that yet? By the way I think my coil vapes smoother than the original, Cotton Bacon V2 wick, here's some pics, click thumbnail to enlarge:
View attachment 644305 View attachment 644307
I dont have any 30 AWG kanthal, but I tried with 30 AWG SS316.
It was really quick and easy actually.
1. Disassemble the pod entirely.
2. Make sure the gold contacts are pushed in fully, then cut the contacts flush with the plastic base (the interior side where the coil would be) to avoid any shorts
3. Pull out Pins and set aside
4. Place Metal chimney back into pod.
5. Wrap your coil around a 1.5mm tool and leave long legs, maybe 2 inches, cut on slightly shorter, and straighten as best as possible.
6. keep coil on 1.5mm tool and thread each leg into the metal chimney through the pin holes. and seat the tool entirely into the chimney cutout.
7. With the tool still in place on the chimney pull the legs tight on each side
8. Bend one leg 90 degress and push gold pin into place, while holding the tool in the chimney slots.
9. Pull other leg tight again and repeat step 8
10. carefully remove coil jib from coil and chimney and place silicon shoulders back around chimney
11. thread wick, cut wick, fluff wick.
12. Place silicon cap on and fill pod.
Probably the same thing you did, however I see no reason to leave the gold contacts as long. just cut them flush with the base and you shouldn't have any issues shorting.
and if you leave the coil on your tool/mandrel then pull the legs tight you wont have any issues with the pins pushing the wire out. or touching the sides of the chimney.
I don't recommend 30AWG SS316 it came out to about .8 ohms with 7wrap spaced and the vape is too hot to quick, need to pick up some kanthal today.
Once I get some kanthal to test with I'm going to do a few more pods.
If it turns out wwell I'll probably buy a few packs just to have backups in the event of wear and tear.
Yes that's how I ended up doing it at the end but I left the posts full length and did it without the collar on. I'll try leaving the collar on next time.
Sadly I went to rebuild again and the base cracked in half.
Sigh.. sad times...
They are going to stop making them soon I wager then where will I be =(
You have to remember, these were never designed to be rebuilt.
Duh.
My point is when they stop manufacturing them I'll need to find something else, that is less satisfying most likely.
The pods are too expensive (for no good reason I might add) to stock up any reasonable amount.
If I had a 3D Printer, i'd just make a rebuild able POD myself, but that is a little more money and effort than I'm ready for at the moment.
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However I could probably get something put up on Shapeways... hmmm I might try that if I can find something to use as posts.
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