New kid is frustrated with carto's and tanks
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From gotvapes when I bought the vivi nova. Then I cut a cone in half to make it look better and give more stability
It's about 1/4". Here's a pic without the cone
I have gotten used to it. This has become my favorite device at home. The only reason I even bought the new clearo is to fill it with a cinnamon juice to see if it really doesn't crack. I would love to see this in 808 threading. I know a lot of volt users would buy it.
To me, cartos in tanks are a solid ally in the war against cigarettes. Yes, there are better weapons, but this one is basic and reliable.
I'm watching a war movie right now - July 4, 2012. A platoon will have many different weapons carried by different guys. In WW2, a squad in a platoon might have had a guy with a BAR (Browning Automatic Rifle), a guy with a bazooka, a couple of guys with a light machine gun, and maybe a guy with a flame-thrower if they were on a Pacific island. All the other guys would likely be carrying the 30-06 caliber M1 Garand semi-automatic rifle, the main infantry weapon of the war. Reliable, basic, and effective.
There are plenty of better-perfoming attachments out there, but to me, a Boge single-coil carto (of a resistance suitable to the voltage and amp limit of your device) inside a Smoktech 3.5ml DCT tank is the M1 Garand in the war on cigarettes. If you can outfit your squad with the more advanced weapons, great. But make sure there are plenty of M1's around too.
This is from a post I just made in another thread, where the OP is starting out with Joyetech Twists, Smoktech tanks/cartos, a Vivi Nova or two, and maybe some clearos.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...aying-hi-looking-pointed-right-direction.html
Tips and tricks:
When filling your cartos and tanks: (After slotting it of course), lubricate the carto with a bit of juice and slide it up into the bottom of the tank, leaving enough room between the top of it and the top cap so you can squeeze in some juice without dumping any directly into the carto. That said, then drip about 15-20 drops directly into the top of the carto. Fill the tank as full as you can without having the level in the tank overflow into the carto, then slide the carto all the way up into and through the top cap.
THEN WAIT until a drop or two of juice finally drips out the 510 connector on the bottom of the carto. (During the waiting period, you can go ahead and add more drops - maybe as much as 10-15 more - but making sure that the carto doesn't develop any signs of "standing" liquid at the top surface of the polyfill. Pretty much fill it like you would water a houseplant; moist, but not soggy. This is very important for a great draw and great hit "right out of the box"). You do not want to put power to the coil before the carto is nice and moist; once the polyfill is scorched, it can't be unscorched. (I came up with that all by myself).
As the carto "stabilizes", you'll see little bubbles (RIP Don Ho) coming out of the slot. Enjoy them; they are cool. And like the "tingle" of Tegrin shampoo, they tell you that "it's working". (And yes, I am borderline nuts).
When you need to refill the tank, just pull the carto back down a bit, leaving the same gap as before between the top of the carto and the bottom of the top cap, and fill 'er up. Be careful not to pull the tank away from the bottom cap in the process. Been there, done that, cleaned up that mess. And again, be careful not to pour any juice firectly into the top of the carto. After using these tanks for about half a year, I just did that again yesterday. When (not if) it does happen, just go ahead and fill the tank (after mildly swearing and oulling th carto down a bit further), and then blow through the drip tip to help remove the xcess juice that has now flooded it. After a few gentle hits that will get some juice into your mouth, the carto should begin to draw nicely again.
After maybe a few days (some lucky users say a week or more), the carto will become increasingly hard to draw through. At that point, simply put a new, properly-slotted one in. Regardless of the juice level in the tank, what I do is to simply invert the tank, push the new carto in through what is now the bottom of the tank, driving the old carto out through what is now the top of the tank. Presto.
Yes, the tanks are intended to have a top cap and a bottom cap, and might or might not have functional design elements on the "bottom" cap that would engage the flat spots on a flanged carto, but at best they barely work anyway, so I just ignore that feature and enjoy the luxury of being able to swap cartos so easily. I rarely have a problem unscrewing an unflanged carto and tank from the 510 connection, but if one does become stuck, just gently grip the top of the carto where it protrudes from the tank with a pair of pliers and turn it right out. Keeping the trim piece screwed tightly down on the 510 connectors reduces the chances of it acting like a lock nut.
Slotting cartos:
I recommend getting a little tube of 36 "Dremel Cut-Off Wheel No. 409" down at the local hardware store. They are 1mm thick, and do a very nice job. They are also EXTREMELY brittle, and if you're not careful, you will go through more of them through breaking than through their intended purpose. DO NOT leave the arbor with cut-off wheel mounted on the Dremel (or equivalent) when you're not using it. DO NOT ask me how I know this. Also consider getting a spare arbor for when you lose the little screw. Backup, backup backup.
When cutting the slot, there's obviously a trade-off between maximizing tank capacity (slot down low) and having it too damn low (insufficient juice flow into the carto). Have I made a jig yet to uniformly slot my cartos? Of course not. That would be far too sensible, and would require effort. For now, I mark them with a fine Sharpie, and err slightly on the high side.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=64Bjf67PArw pbusardo slotting cartos
I'm watching a war movie right now - July 4, 2012. A platoon will have many different weapons carried by different guys. In WW2, a squad in a platoon might have had a guy with a BAR (Browning Automatic Rifle), a guy with a bazooka, a couple of guys with a light machine gun, and maybe a guy with a flame-thrower if they were on a Pacific island. All the other guys would likely be carrying the 30-06 caliber M1 Garand semi-automatic rifle, the main infantry weapon of the war. Reliable, basic, and effective.
There are plenty of better-perfoming attachments out there, but to me, a Boge single-coil carto (of a resistance suitable to the voltage and amp limit of your device) inside a Smoktech 3.5ml DCT tank is the M1 Garand in the war on cigarettes. If you can outfit your squad with the more advanced weapons, great. But make sure there are plenty of M1's around too.
This is from a post I just made in another thread, where the OP is starting out with Joyetech Twists, Smoktech tanks/cartos, a Vivi Nova or two, and maybe some clearos.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...aying-hi-looking-pointed-right-direction.html
Tips and tricks:
When filling your cartos and tanks: (After slotting it of course), lubricate the carto with a bit of juice and slide it up into the bottom of the tank, leaving enough room between the top of it and the top cap so you can squeeze in some juice without dumping any directly into the carto. That said, then drip about 15-20 drops directly into the top of the carto. Fill the tank as full as you can without having the level in the tank overflow into the carto, then slide the carto all the way up into and through the top cap.
THEN WAIT until a drop or two of juice finally drips out the 510 connector on the bottom of the carto. (During the waiting period, you can go ahead and add more drops - maybe as much as 10-15 more - but making sure that the carto doesn't develop any signs of "standing" liquid at the top surface of the polyfill. Pretty much fill it like you would water a houseplant; moist, but not soggy. This is very important for a great draw and great hit "right out of the box"). You do not want to put power to the coil before the carto is nice and moist; once the polyfill is scorched, it can't be unscorched. (I came up with that all by myself).
As the carto "stabilizes", you'll see little bubbles (RIP Don Ho) coming out of the slot. Enjoy them; they are cool. And like the "tingle" of Tegrin shampoo, they tell you that "it's working". (And yes, I am borderline nuts). When you need to refill the tank, just pull the carto back down a bit, leaving the same gap as before between the top of the carto and the bottom of the top cap, and fill 'er up. Be careful not to pull the tank away from the bottom cap in the process. Been there, done that, cleaned up that mess. And again, be careful not to pour any juice firectly into the top of the carto. After using these tanks for about half a year, I just did that again yesterday. When (not if) it does happen, just go ahead and fill the tank (after mildly swearing and oulling th carto down a bit further), and then blow through the drip tip to help remove the xcess juice that has now flooded it. After a few gentle hits that will get some juice into your mouth, the carto should begin to draw nicely again.
After maybe a few days (some lucky users say a week or more), the carto will become increasingly hard to draw through. At that point, simply put a new, properly-slotted one in. Regardless of the juice level in the tank, what I do is to simply invert the tank, push the new carto in through what is now the bottom of the tank, driving the old carto out through what is now the top of the tank. Presto.
Yes, the tanks are intended to have a top cap and a bottom cap, and might or might not have functional design elements on the "bottom" cap that would engage the flat spots on a flanged carto, but at best they barely work anyway, so I just ignore that feature and enjoy the luxury of being able to swap cartos so easily. I rarely have a problem unscrewing an unflanged carto and tank from the 510 connection, but if one does become stuck, just gently grip the top of the carto where it protrudes from the tank with a pair of pliers and turn it right out. Keeping the trim piece screwed tightly down on the 510 connectors reduces the chances of it acting like a lock nut.
Slotting cartos:
I recommend getting a little tube of 36 "Dremel Cut-Off Wheel No. 409" down at the local hardware store. They are 1mm thick, and do a very nice job. They are also EXTREMELY brittle, and if you're not careful, you will go through more of them through breaking than through their intended purpose. DO NOT leave the arbor with cut-off wheel mounted on the Dremel (or equivalent) when you're not using it. DO NOT ask me how I know this. Also consider getting a spare arbor for when you lose the little screw. Backup, backup backup.
When cutting the slot, there's obviously a trade-off between maximizing tank capacity (slot down low) and having it too damn low (insufficient juice flow into the carto). Have I made a jig yet to uniformly slot my cartos? Of course not. That would be far too sensible, and would require effort. For now, I mark them with a fine Sharpie, and err slightly on the high side.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=64Bjf67PArw pbusardo slotting cartos
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I want the BAR or at least a bazooka.....but that's just me..
Are you sure I can't interest you in one of these?
The 40mm Machine Gun!!! - YouTube
Are maybe this is more to your liking?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KtyGXxD18bk
Well hold on ... I have a feeling you might be more of a "nuclear" guy ... I'm gonna be going with either the Bulli A2-TM atomizer, or one of these:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=goMNAxFqGbk
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Are you sure I can't interest you in one of these?
The 40mm Machine Gun!!! - YouTube
Are maybe this is more to your liking?
CIWS firing - YouTube
The second one is interesting, but my main vape still has to be....
Switched from clearomizers to tanks. Having trouble with flavor. Am I using wrong tank. 1.5 ohm dual coil on ego twist.
A tank is pretty much a tank, unless it leaks like a sieve or something. The important part is the carto inside it, and how it's slotted or punched, and how its resistance and number of coils works well or doesn't work well with the device that's powering it (or trying to).
This is a cut-and-paste of a post that I've made on the subject of cartomizers for the Twist. (Bottom line: Boge single coil, either 2.0 or 3.0 ohm. In real life, they seem to run about 2.3 ohms on the 2.0, and 2.8 ohms on the 3.0. The 3.0 will give you better battery life, and might just get warm enough for all juices. The 2.0 will give you a little less battery life, but IMO can definitely be warmed enough for any juice there is).
*****
" ...... Some people - including MyVaporStore - will say that dual coil cartomizers work fine on lower-voltage devices - but IMO they do not.
From the MyVaporStore website:
These cartomizers were designed specifically for use with Dual Coil Tank (DCTank) Tubes. A 510 drip tip and DCTank tube is needed in order to use these cartomizers. There is a hole punch on the side of them so may leak if used without a DCTank Tube.
All of our eLiquid will work with the DCTank (full PG or 50/50 PG/VG). Full VG eliquid is too thick and will not work well in theDCTank. [VG will work much better in a carto slotted for it].
These new cartomizers contain two heating coils instead of one to produce more vapor than your standard cartomizer [if you can put enough volts/watts to them]. They have been designed to work great with 3.7V batteries [Not IMO] or a HV (high voltage) setup. Available in 1.5ohm or 2.5ohm. Please allow +/- 0.3 variation. We recommend 1.5ohm for Ego batteries [why?] or 3.0V-4.2V batteries and 2.5ohm for 5V or higher. These cartomizers must be used with batteries of 650mAh capacity or higher and are known to discharge batteries much quicker than single coil cartomizers.
This is nowhere near as complicated as it might seem, and will be well worth the modest learning curve to figure out. This thread:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...sion/302432-why-ego-c-twist-game-changer.html
contains a thorough discussion of why single coil cartomizers are far superior (IMO) to dual coils for use in a Joyetech Twist (or any eGo-class battery/PV).
If you do nothing else, please at least watch the Grimm Green review of the Twist, and feel free to ask any questions that you might have. Good luck, and happy vaping, whatever it's on.
Final note: I have always found the term DCT[ank] to be a misnomer, since "DCT" stands for Dual Coil Tank, potentially leading one to believe that single coil cartomizers are somehow not well-suited to them, which IMO they very much are. Some people like dual coils, and IMO they have their place, but not in lower-voltage devices; not even a 1.5 ohm dual coil in a Twist, due to the marginal wattage per coil, and the greatly increased amp draw of say a 1.5 ohm dual coil cartomizer over a 3.0 ohm single coil.
*****
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ol-Ol8qWPic&feature=g-all-c Grimm Green Twist Game changer
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9lLAVH_Lae0 Phil Busardo Twist review
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You call that a gun?
Cool - so do I!
That 16" main gun will hurl a 2,000 lb. projectile over 20 miles. 'Nuff said, I suppose.My father was a career Naval officer who served aboard a light cruiser in WW2, so I have a deep interest in Naval armament and warfare, and an abiding respect for all the brave men and women who fight and have fought to keep us safe, and some of whom, in the words of Abraham Lincoln, "Have laid so much at the altar of freedom"; their very lives.
Happy Fourth of July everyone, and please continue to support our troops, both active and retired, while continuing to scrutinize and influence as best you can what actions they are directed to take on behalf of this great country.
*****
More "on-topic":
I just read the OP's OP again:
Cartomizers: Even using the condom fill method it is hit and miss getting them to work right. About half are going straight out (Boge's) since they are burnt after a couple of draws.
* PLEASE read what I posted about filling a tank and carto for the first time. "Don't rush the carto". It MUST be fully saturated before being fired. PERIOD.
Tank: Got a tank system and all of a sudden the carto leaks (e.g., its not the tank). The seals on the tank are fine, it is something in the cartomizer. Maybe the holes are to big?
* Probably. In the PBusardo carto-slotting video, I think he talks about how a carto inside a tank will be prone to leaking from the bottom if, for example, you cut two slots instead of one. I tried it, and sure enough, juice started oozing out of the bottom. Now there is obviously no standard unit of measure called the "slot". You're going to have to experiment until you find what works for your particular juices. For me, it's a single slot, about 1mm wide, and about an 1/8" long.
Also, the carto will tend to drip more when the top of the tank isn't sealed up by having the cartomizer in it. Still working out the physics on that one.
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With the Twist and a 1.5 ohm, you shouldn't go above 3.4 volts or so. If you do you'll get a funky taste. I rarely go above 4-4.2 volts on my Twist, even with a 2.8 ohm head. With a 3ohm head you could probably crank the Twist to the max.
OP: PLEASE don't use dual coils on a Twist (or any other device, absent a compelling reason to do so). "Two coils must be better than one" doesn't count IMO.
With a dual coil at 3.watts, you're getting 3.85 watts per coil, and draining your battery excessively in the process, to little purpose IMO.
3.4 x 3.4 / 1.5 / 2 = 7.7 total 3.85 watts per coil 2.26 amps
4.1 x 4.1 / 3.8 = 6.00 watts per coil; sounds reasonable.
4.8 x 4.8 / 3 = 7.68 (3 ohm single coil); again, sounds reasonable.
I do not understand the fascination with dual coils. I get plenty of vapor with a single coil, and it takes less battery power to achieve a given coil temperature.
Yeah, I was referring to single coils. I have no experience with duals and as of now, see no reason to try them.
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Thanks everyone for the great information. Just got order of dual coils. Will put them away and order some single coil. Knew there was something wrong, just needed some good advise. Have been vaping for 1 year and 10 months, spent lots of money, and still don't know much. Took me this long to aask question on ECF, do lots of reading, but a little shy. Thanks again
Wow, John. This helps me a lot! Thanks a million. Great information....still digesting it.
To me, cartos in tanks are a solid ally in the war against cigarettes. Yes, there are better weapons, but this one is basic and reliable.
I'm watching a war movie right now - July 4, 2012. A platoon will have many different weapons carried by different guys. In WW2, a squad in a platoon might have had a guy with a BAR (Browning Automatic Rifle), a guy with a bazooka, a couple of guys with a light machine gun, and maybe a guy with a flame-thrower if they were on a Pacific island. All the other guys would likely be carrying the 30-06 caliber M1 Garand semi-automatic rifle, the main infantry weapon of the war. Reliable, basic, and effective.
There are plenty of better-perfoming attachments out there, but to me, a Boge single-coil carto (of a resistance suitable to the voltage and amp limit of your device) inside a Smoktech 3.5ml DCT tank is the M1 Garand in the war on cigarettes. If you can outfit your squad with the more advanced weapons, great. But make sure there are plenty of M1's around too.
This is from a post I just made in another thread, where the OP is starting out with Joyetech Twists, Smoktech tanks/cartos, a Vivi Nova or two, and maybe some clearos.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...aying-hi-looking-pointed-right-direction.html
Tips and tricks:
When filling your cartos and tanks: (After slotting it of course), lubricate the carto with a bit of juice and slide it up into the bottom of the tank, leaving enough room between the top of it and the top cap so you can squeeze in some juice without dumping any directly into the carto. That said, then drip about 15-20 drops directly into the top of the carto. Fill the tank as full as you can without having the level in the tank overflow into the carto, then slide the carto all the way up into and through the top cap.
THEN WAIT until a drop or two of juice finally drips out the 510 connector on the bottom of the carto. (During the waiting period, you can go ahead and add more drops - maybe as much as 10-15 more - but making sure that the carto doesn't develop any signs of "standing" liquid at the top surface of the polyfill. Pretty much fill it like you would water a houseplant; moist, but not soggy. This is very important for a great draw and great hit "right out of the box"). You do not want to put power to the coil before the carto is nice and moist; once the polyfill is scorched, it can't be unscorched. (I came up with that all by myself).
When you need to refill the tank, just pull the carto back down a bit, leaving the same gap as before between the top of the carto and the bottom of the top cap, and fill 'er up. Be careful not to pull the tank away from the bottom cap in the process. Been there, done that, cleaned up that mess. And again, be careful not to pour any juice firectly into the top of the carto. After using these tanks for about half a year, I just did that again yesterday. When (not if) it does happen, just go ahead and fill the tank (after mildly swearing and oulling th carto down a bit further), and then blow through the drip tip to help remove the xcess juice that has now flooded it. After a few gentle hits that will get some juice into your mouth, the carto should begin to draw nicely again.
After maybe a few days (some lucky users say a week or more), the carto will become increasingly hard to draw through. At that point, simply put a new, properly-slotted one in. Regardless of the juice level in the tank, what I do is to simply invert the tank, push the new carto in through what is now the bottom of the tank, driving the old carto out through what is now the top of the tank. Presto.
Yes, the tanks are intended to have a top cap and a bottom cap, and might or might not have functional design elements on the "bottom" cap that would engage the flat spots on a flanged carto, but at best they barely work anyway, so I just ignore that feature and enjoy the luxury of being able to swap cartos so easily. I rarely have a problem unscrewing an unflanged carto and tank from the 510 connection, but if one does become stuck, just gently grip the top of the carto where it protrudes from the tank with a pair of pliers and turn it right out. Keeping the trim piece screwed tightly down on the 510 connectors reduces the chances of it acting like a lock nut.
Slotting cartos:
I recommend getting a little tube of 36 "Dremel Cut-Off Wheel No. 409" down at the local hardware store. They are 1mm thick, and do a very nice job. They are also EXTREMELY brittle, and if you're not careful, you will go through more of them through breaking than through their intended purpose. DO NOT leave the arbor with cut-off wheel mounted on the Dremel (or equivalent) when you're not using it. DO NOT ask me how I know this. Also consider getting a spare arbor for when you lose the little screw. Backup, backup backup.
When cutting the slot, there's obviously a trade-off between maximizing tank capacity (slot down low) and having it too damn low (insufficient juice flow into the carto). Have I made a jig yet to uniformly slot my cartos? Of course not. That would be far too sensible, and would require effort. For now, I mark them with a fine Sharpie, and err slightly on the high side.
A PBusardo Tutorial - How I slot my cartos!.wmv - YouTube pbusardo slotting cartos
I learned the hard way. I bought a pack of them (only 5) and they are definitely a let down. Don't work as well as the singles I have. I had read so much but I didn't understand it fully until I read more and this post really helps cement it.
Stosh, My replacement atty for the Vivi started going into the "no taste zone" so I tried this technique. Worked like a champ. back to full flavor and vapor. Thanks!
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