NEW RoyalSmokers C-E2 R4 Review, Tips, Info, Help, Video

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v1John

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Ok someoneone said something about getting the cad drawings, but for now here is the image.
The carto on the right is not a carto, it's an adaptor that the adaptor companies could make. The outer end on the right screws right on to the kr808d vgo etc., and the part on the left has 2 hollow rods like the air stems.

They don't have one post, but two. I only have one for now, but completed it needs two, one for the positive and one for the ground. The piece in the middle is just the plunger section of the syringe, and what you do is you put two large stainless steel needles or something into the posts.

Then you thread your nichrome on each needle head, and wrap it around a small piece or wick or mesh (or ptb if you keep it wet).

Then you just insert the whole thing up into the 3ml syringe tube, fill it up and vape :) !

It's that easy. if something gunks up, you have all the options that you currently have, or you can just as easily thread a new coil, or replace the mesh, wick, or ptb.

?



p.s rbonie, Badkolo made a video, but he didn't build it in the video. What you do is you get a 3ml syringe and cut the bottom of it off, then you put the e2 stem in it, fill it and vape. Maybe Bad or someone can make a step by step video, but you do have to cut the carto also so maybe that can be explained in a video too.
 
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Turbo

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I posted my first attempt a little while back. It was a 3ml syringe but was a little bigger then the one I used today. While it worked well, it leaked on the bottom. It might have worked if I left the sticker on the carto portion above the threads. Mighty tape and other avenues didn't work. Short of gluing it I got a new batch of 3ml syringes at my local feed store.

The newest ones say 'monoject' on the side. They come w/ a protective tube that says 'use once and destroy' on the cap (there's also a 3/4 22g stamp on it. These came w/ a 22g needle).

I tested it out by filling w/ Vodka to see if it leaked. It didn't so I brought it to my friends tonight and it did well. The hit isn't quite as strong as the bigger syringe. The original mouthpiece fits while on the other I had to make one. Since the filler ring seems to be sealing it I didn't use the black syringe plunger.

As 'storm', 'vjohn' and others posted, there seems to be other 3ml syringes that work but they are not all created equal as I found out.
 

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br5495

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I got my first dud from my last shipment from China. It worked great for the first fill, then went South fast. Dry burning and torching the wicks didn't work. It's just giving a measly output of vapor. I switched it to another tube just to be sure and it's just not working. It's not a setback for me because these are the best things I've come across since I started vaping, but I just wonder why that could be. Just doesn't make any sense to me. The first 10 were superb.

About the same thing happened with me yesterday with a new 3.0Ω XL. However, it didn't do all that well on the first filling. The vapor was good, but the taste was on the borderline of dry. It vaped the reservoir almost dry, so I knew that the wicks were long enough to give better performance than that. I coxed it along by using it in the horizontal position for two fillings.

Earlier today, I removed it from the tube. Sure enough, the wicks were almost long enough and I found nothing else wrong. I rinsed off the wick and torched it dry, then burned off the coil and put it back in the tube. Same thing, didn't help it a bit. It didn't do much if any better in a syringe mod, either.

Then I put it in a 5ml bottle. Now it wicks too much. I thought for a while that the shrink tubing seal on the stem of the ceramic cup was leaking, but I was wrong. The liquid level is below that point at this moment and there is a slight slurpee after it sets upright for a few minutes. It was much worse than that with more liquid. At a higher liquid level, I had to crank the voltage up to keep it vaped off. I didn't measure the voltage, but it was smoking like a freight train.

So this just proves what I have been preaching all along. The wicking method of the E2 will never allow all of them to work well, and certainly not when mass produced. Quality control will not fix this particular issue.

Edit: See post #2210
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...iew-tips-info-help-video-221.html#post2145430
 
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horton

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Monoject is considered to be one of the best, at least in doctors offices and the Terumo brand is one of the lower quality syringes...... The biggest difference is the plastic used for the plunger. In the Monoject it is more durable and fits tighter. Also, the Monoject needles are much, much sharper than other brands and the luer lock is more leakproof.
 

v1John

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well I think my vapor is finally as big as Br's and Badkolo's.

I just clean-burned the syringe mod and cut the wicks almost 10mm from the slits and put the ptb back on.

I'm still worried about the wick, it didn't end up white and complete, it ended up gray and it looked like some of its outer parts were gone. Just like there are different nichrome alloys, and raidy's Kanthal is a nichrome alloy with aluminum, it makes me wonder about the composition of the wick. I wonder if its 100% homogeneous or not.
 

dannoman

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homogenous wicks...convoluted nichrome...I just wanted to quit smoking, what did I get myself in to....


well I think my vapor is finally as big as Br's and Badkolo's.

I just clean-burned the syringe mod and cut the wicks almost 10mm from the slits and put the ptb back on.

I'm still worried about the wick, it didn't end up white and complete, it ended up gray and it looked like some of its outer parts were gone. Just like there are different nichrome alloys, and raidy's Kanthal is a nichrome alloy with aluminum, it makes me wonder about the composition of the wick. I wonder if its 100% homogeneous or not.
 

Big Hitter

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One thing to be careful of cleaning these is don't mess with the wicks too much. If you remove the guts from either the syringe or bottle mods to clean them you can fudge the wicks pretty quick... especially if they're wet. I just leave mine in the bottle for both rinsing and dry burning.

Couldn't agree more. The wicks are VERY fragile when wet. I know there were mentions of "fluffing" them before but I really think they work best if they don't start to go all "strandy" on ya.
 

br5495

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I was wrong about what I said in post #2204.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...iew-tips-info-help-video-221.html#post2144324

After putting the poor working E2 in a 5ml bottle, it does NOT wick too much. My goof up was that I put the wrong one in the bottle yesterday. I have so many of them things laying here that I got all fused up. I put the poor working E2 in a 5ml bottle this morning and it does not wick any better than it did in its original tube.

So now I not only have to eat my words, but I have to try and figure out what is wrong with it. I think I may know why, but it will probably take a while to prove it. If I do figure out why, you can bet that I'll let everyone know.
 

Turbo

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I'm still trying to find out what the minimum diameter of an E2 tube needs to be in order to make it work better than the original size. Is the syringe inside diameter actually large enough to make it work better? I haven't been able to tell the difference.

Good question. My first syringe mod was slightly larger and I felt it hit stronger. The newest one is a little smaller and I don't notice much difference although it may be a bit better..

I'd be curious to see what that min diameter is myself.
 

stephenluke

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I'm still trying to find out what the minimum diameter of an E2 tube needs to be in order to make it work better than the original size. Is the syringe inside diameter actually large enough to make it work better? I haven't been able to tell the difference.

Good question. My first syringe mod was slightly larger and I felt it hit stronger. The newest one is a little smaller and I don't notice much difference although it may be a bit better..

I'd be curious to see what that min diameter is myself.

I've done 7 different sized tubes and haven't found a difference in vapor production. If it works great in one, it works great in another. There's advantages and disadvantages of the different size tubes- mostly practical concerns such as stability and portability. But as far as I can tell, no difference in vapor, flavor, throat hit, etc.
 

badkolo

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anything that is just a tad bigger then the e2 tube works better for me, now when you use a bottle mod then it changes it drasticly.

the e2 tube is to tight with the new cup and sleeve. im getting great results in a syring mod.

even though i found the e2's match, its this grape ape form nhaler but its so thick and i think its heavy in additives or sugars and it doesnt wick well but it really doesnt move around either, very thick juice and doesnt wick well. but this isnt his octane line and i knew it was thick already but bought it to test.

the old plastic cup was much thinnner and had no sleeve so there was much more room, thicker juice wasnt as bad in those, but all the issues that came with those e2's caused the changes.

right now on the r4 itself dripping down the side to fill it up takes longer becuase the thicker ceramic cup and sleeve restrain the juice from flowing freely to the tank, this effect works the other way as well.

thin juice works well in the r4, thicker juice has issues. even ptb can be affected by to thick of a juice, you can see it in the syring mod, it moves around like get in the ptb instead of moving around like a thinnner liquid would which is more freely.
 
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Turbo

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I've done 7 different sized tubes and haven't found a difference in vapor production. If it works great in one, it works great in another. There's advantages and disadvantages of the different size tubes- mostly practical concerns such as stability and portability. But as far as I can tell, no difference in vapor, flavor, throat hit, etc.

Interesting, now that you mention it I remember you saying that before. Maybe the wicks need to be free floating like in the bottle mod. They do stick to the syringe walls like someone mentioned a while ago.
 

Turbo

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anything that is just a tad bigger then the e2 tube works better for me, now when you use a bottle mod then it changes it drasticly.

the e2 tube is to tight with the new cup and sleeve. im getting great results in a syring mod.

I see, yeah, I think 'br' is curious to see what the smallest diameter would be to improve drastically. It's somewhere in between a syringe tube and a bottle.
 

zoiDman

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I see, yeah, I think 'br' is curious to see what the smallest diameter would be to improve drastically. It's somewhere in between a syringe tube and a bottle.

I think you will find is that the diameter of the carto body just needs to be larger in the area of the cup to improve performance. Making the carto diameter larger in the reservoir area will probably not increase performance, just capacity.
 

dannoman

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I did a syringe mod with vaperite's Bananas Foster which is a very viscous all VG juice and it basically behaves as it was behaving in an unmodded E2...except this time I don't have a filler ring sealing the cup so I can't do a tilt....I am goign to try to do some more syringe mods with other juices. One thing...when I took the paper cover off to cut the E2 tube it left sticky residue from the tape and it gives a perfect seal at the bottom...I don't even come close to a leak.

Where is everyone getting your syringes???????

edit: todd at vaperite must be getting alot of feedback from his customers because he just instituted a 70VG/30PG option for his juice saying on his site it was done for the benefit of carto users....


anything that is just a tad bigger then the e2 tube works better for me, now when you use a bottle mod then it changes it drasticly.

the e2 tube is to tight with the new cup and sleeve. im getting great results in a syring mod.

even though i found the e2's match, its this grape ape form nhaler but its so thick and i think its heavy in additives or sugars and it doesnt wick well but it really doesnt move around either, very thick juice and doesnt wick well. but this isnt his octane line and i knew it was thick already but bought it to test.

the old plastic cup was much thinnner and had no sleeve so there was much more room, thicker juice wasnt as bad in those, but all the issues that came with those e2's caused the changes.

right now on the r4 itself dripping down the side to fill it up takes longer becuase the thicker ceramic cup and sleeve restrain the juice from flowing freely to the tank, this effect works the other way as well.

thin juice works well in the r4, thicker juice has issues. even ptb can be affected by to thick of a juice, you can see it in the syring mod, it moves around like get in the ptb instead of moving around like a thinnner liquid would which is more freely.
 

br5495

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Right now I don't know what to think about tube or bottle size. Sometimes I think maybe so, then again I don't know. I think more about a manufactured product rather than our mods. If a larger one actually works better, then we need to be able to buy them ready made. At this time my opinion is that they stand a better chance of working well than the stock hit or miss XL's. Some XL's are outstanding, but they are few and far between.

Of course, I mostly want to know if an eGo or vGo size cartomizer would actually work better for a manufactured product. Naturally the main reason is for it to hold more liquid, but it would be nice if it worked better.

I put a regular length E2 in a bottle that has the same diameter as the Hello battery. It seems to work better than in a small tube, but this may be because of the reserve vapor inside the bottle. Actually, this thing doesn't look all that bad. I could dress it up a bit to look more like a cigar and it would look good enough to use in public. This bottle is too short for a decent working XL, but it could be shorter for a regular length and still hold more liquid than a stock XL.

Small.jpg
 
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