That would be nice. I plan to experiment w/ different length voids on top w/ the syringe mods. The referenced carto in my message above is stock, except PTB but I've noticed this w/ some stock ones as well.
NEW RoyalSmokers C-E2 R4 Review, Tips, Info, Help, Video
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That would be nice. I plan to experiment w/ different length voids on top w/ the syringe mods. The referenced carto in my message above is stock, except PTB but I've noticed this w/ some stock ones as well.
I have always had a condensation problem with the E2, even though I didn't know what was happening back at the beginning. My spill proof mod handles it better than anything else as long as I vape it slightly below the horizontal position or less. This allows it to run down the wall of the inside tube and avoid the ceramic cup as it drips back into the tank. I'm having some thoughts about making one of these with parts turned on a lathe. A new E2 will screw into this mod instead of relying on the tight fit in a bottle neck.
Yes, 'br', you brought it to my attention and when I made a mod I saw it firsthand. Funny what we can see in these mods. I'd like to see that turned carto.
I've been using the E2s without any rings in at all - so there's nowhere to trap condensation. Just use a rubber bung in the end when the device is not in use.
And you don't get juiced? Surely it would leak if on it's side, which I do quite often. I do stand my Vgo upright at my desk though.
Yep. Strip 'em naked and tail pipe them suckers. Been there. Done that. Still do sometimes.
Turbo - When I put it down I just prop it up on something (so the mouth end is, say, an inch above the ash end) - as long as it's not completely horizontal I find it doesn't leak. Most of the juice in there is held in the wicks.
BR - how did you wire up your twin E2? Did you have two pairs of wires running down to the battery connector - or was it possible to run both coils from a single pair of wires?
In hindsight condensation has been an issue since the day I started. Even on the Atties I'd have condensation forming in the cart body and ultimately into my mouth. Every time I filled them I'd have to clean the inside of the bodies out. I think I notice it more now because with the E2's there is less to worry about. No dripping and filling and drag to battery cut off and all that. When I think about that suddenly the condensation doesn't seem like that big a deal.
Your thinking will connect them in parallel. Parallel will work and you will have the equivalent of a 1.5Ω LR coil. If you connect them like this, use both pair of wires. Do not use this arrangement on a high voltage source. Edit: Just make certain that you use a 3Ω version instead of a 2.5Ω version.
Mine are in series. I removed the short wire from the metal tube with a clean soldering iron. Try to leave as much solder on the tube as possible because it will have to be reused. Regular 60-40 rosin core solder will not work on this tube. Strip the insulation off the wire and twist it tightly to the short wire from another wick and coil assembly. I don't have any lead free solder, so I did not solder this connection. Then solder the long wire from the other coil to the tube using the available solder that is left on it.
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Wouldn't that be defeating the present, non-burning ability of the manufacturer's wick. I thought that ability was one of the things that made everyone so hot (no pun intended) for these in the first place -- but I'm a n00b, so what do I know.
Tim
right, it's easy to burn the ptb when it's routed in the slits, I got a bad ptb taste one time and won't be trying that one
wire cloth from McMasterC might work though, and the carto could hopefully last a year
wire cloth from McMasterC might work though, and the carto could hopefully last a year
Not sure if you are reseating the filler ring but when I did that today no more condensation at all (or not as much or very little)...you have to be careful though in all of this that you don't break the seal around where the airstem enters the cup...I think I did that pressing down and I get a few phantom vapes but generally its workign great even without the PTB mod...with a ptb mod I shouldn't have to 'tilt' so much to vape...its VERY nice seeing the fluid level...
On a reseat what appears to 'hold' it up sometimes is that inner lip on the inside of the filler ring. I am going to figure out a way of shaving that off and see what happens...
On a reseat what appears to 'hold' it up sometimes is that inner lip on the inside of the filler ring. I am going to figure out a way of shaving that off and see what happens...
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Yeah I did mine reseat today on the syringe mod--its actually a little easier cus you can 'see' but you still always have to be careful pusing down on the stem and cup...
I haven't tried seating mine that way yet. The way my rig fits together I put the ring on first while everything is open, then my ptb, then a nylon ring goes on around. Makes dealing with the filler ring nice and easy. I forget how nice that is until I clean my wifes. Hers are just the stock carto.
I've been reading this thread from the very beginning and have learned a lot. Been especially interested in the gunking issues. Decided to try something for myself just to see what happened. Last Thursday I took a freshly cleaned, well broken in, r4 shortie (purchased from Volcano ecigs) and have been using that carto only, just refilling when it starts tasting dry. I'm using two of my home grown juices which are both very clear. Juice A is 70/30 PG/VG McCormicks artificial vanilla, juice B is 50/50 PG/VG Loranns marshmello, both 5mg nic, both with a few drops of stevia extract and a few drops of 151 rum. I've been alternating marshmello and vanilla on each refill and using 280mah 510 batteries the whole time. I'm using only the middle ring installed flat side down and use a 910 whistle tip cut back for a mouthpiece. I've been going through 4+ml of juice a day.
Tonight I took a flashlight so I could see in there better and there is some visible gunk on the coil and the wick at the edges of the cup is looking brown, but it is still tasting just fine. It seems to be getting a little warmer then it was at first, but only when I've been drawing on it continuously. I don't notice it drawing any harder or getting dry any quicker or any other real negative, it's still working just fine.
My take on this is that with the juices that I'm using, one could rotate two CE2 r4 cartos and only need to clean about once a week. In four days of use I've put between 15 and 18 ml of juice through this carto and its still plugging away.
Tonight I took a flashlight so I could see in there better and there is some visible gunk on the coil and the wick at the edges of the cup is looking brown, but it is still tasting just fine. It seems to be getting a little warmer then it was at first, but only when I've been drawing on it continuously. I don't notice it drawing any harder or getting dry any quicker or any other real negative, it's still working just fine.
My take on this is that with the juices that I'm using, one could rotate two CE2 r4 cartos and only need to clean about once a week. In four days of use I've put between 15 and 18 ml of juice through this carto and its still plugging away.
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